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THE 


LAND  OF  BONDAGE; 


Anrifnt  Alomttnfntii  nnft  ^rwnt  Cnniiiiinti: 

BEING 

THE  JOURNAL 

OF 


A TOUR  IN  EGYPT. 


J.  M.  W AIN  WRIGHT,  D.  D. 


NEW-YORK : 

D.  APPLETON  AND  COMPANY, 

200  BROADWAY. 


M.DCCC.LU. 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1851,  by 
J.  M.  W AINWRIGHT, 

In  the  Clerk’s  Office  of  the  District  Court  for  the  Southern  District  of  New- York. 


TO 


THE  REV.  JAMES  C.  RICHMOND. 

Dear  Richmond, 

I dedicate  this  volume  to  you  as  a public  recognition  of  the  aid  you  have  afforded 
me  in  preparing  it,  as  well  as  the  former  one  upon  the  Holy  Land,  for  the  press.  Both  have 
been  composed  from  the  journal  of  my  tour,  the  letters  sent  to  my  family  during  its  progress, 
and  various  notes,  memoranda  and  meditations,  written  from  time  to  time.  These  documents 
were  not  in  a state  for  publication  ; and,  unremittingly  occupied  as  I am  in  the  urgent  duties  of 
the  ministry,  I do  not  think  I should  have  found  the  time  or  had  the  courage  to  revise  them, 
and  weave  them  into  a continuous  narrative,  but  for  the  encouragement  and  assistance  of  a 
friend  who  could  work  both  with  me  and  for  me.  I alluded  to  this  association  in  my  preface 
to  the  “ Pathways  and  Abiding  Places  of  our  Lord,”  but  you  did  not  then  permit  me  to  use 
your  name ; now,  however,  I must  claim  the  right  to  do  it  in  order  to  satisfy  my  sense  of 
justice. 

I am,  dear  Richmond, 

Very  sincerely  your  friend, 

JON  A.  M.  WAINWRIGHT. 


New-York,  October,  1851. 


' 

. 

. 

. 


While  I thought  upon  a suitable  name  for  the  book  which  is  here 
offered  to  the  reader,  as  a record  of  my  tour  through  Egypt,  among 
all  the  titles  that  presented  themselves  to  my  mind,  no  other,  upon 
the  whole,  seemed  more  expressive  or  appropriate  than  this,  “The 
Land  of  Bondage.”  For  though  Egypt  may  be  justly  considered  as 
the  cradle  of  our  civilization,  and  perhaps  the  very  birthplace  of 
many  of  the  arts  which  we  have  usually  imagined  that  we  derive 
from  Greece  and  Rome,  yet  it  is  questionable  whether  any  other 
country  can  be  pointed  out,  which,  through  so  many  ages,  has  wit- 
nessed the  continual  serfdom  or  slavery  of  its  inhabitants.  Beyond 
the  Scripture  records,  all  that  relates  to  the  land  of  the  Nile  seems  to 
be  enveloped  in  the  mist  of  fables ; but  at  the  very  outset  of  our 
more  accurate  knowledge  we  find  the  people,  like  Esau,  perfectly 
willing  to  sell  their  birthright  for  a mess  of  pottage.  But  even 
before  this,  the  despotic  power  of  the  king  was  not  only  manifested 
in  his  summary  treatment  of  the  officers  of  his  household,  but  the 
very  honors  conferred  upon  Joseph  give  evidence,  that  when  he  was 
sold  into  slavery  he  was  carried  into  a land  of  slaves.  The  barbaric 
pomp  in  which  he  was  arrayed,  and  the  cry  that  went  before  him, 


VI 


4 Bow  the  knee  !’  and  the  declaration  of  Pharaoh,  4 without  thee  shall 
no  man  lift  up  his  hand  or  foot  in  all  the  land  of  Egypt,’  have  a 
strong  significance.  And  whatever  benefits  the  Hebrew  slave,  now, 
by  legitimate  oriental  custom,  become  chief  ruler  after  the  despot, 
might  have  conferred  upon  his  father’s  house,  it  was  certainly  no 
blessing  to  a starving  people  when  they  gave  up  in  succession  them 
cattle,  their  lands,  and  themselves.  When  there  was  nothing  left  but 
their  bodies  and  their  lands,  they  cried,  4 buy  us  and  our  land  for 
bread,  and  we  and  our  land  will  be  servants  unto  Pharaoh.’  The 
removal  of  the  people  from  one  end  of  Egypt  to  the  other,  was  a 
refinement  in  despotism  which  could  never  have  been  practised 
except  upon  willing  bondmen ; and  to  such  only  could  the  ruler  say, 
4 Behold  ! I have  bought  you  this  day  and  your  land  for  Pharaoh.’ 
Such  is  the  first  certain  §poch  in  the  history  of  this  Land  of  Bondage, 
pointing  plainly  to  a population  already  ripe  for  a condition  of 
servitude. 

To  the  children  of  Israel  Egypt  was  emphatically  the  type  of 
slavery;  and  during  the  four  hundred  and  thirty  years  of  their 
sojourn  in  it  they  were  subjected  to  the  bitterest  of  taskmasters. 
When  the  day  of  their  Exodus,  under  the  Divine  hand,  arrived,  they 
went  up  out  of  Egypt  literally  from  the  house  of  bondage. 

Again,  the  idea  which  the  Holy  Scriptures  bring  to  the  mind, 
when  Egypt  is  the  theme,  is  not  unfrequently  to  the  same  purpose. 
Thus  the  prophet  Isaiah,  in  his  denunciations,  in  the  nineteenth 
chapter,  entitled  4 the  burden  of  Egypt,’  declares  4 the  spirit  of  Egypt 


yn 


shall  fail  in  the  midst  thereof 4 and  the  Egyptians  will  I give  over 
into  the  hand  of  a cruel  lord ; and  a fierce  king  shall  rule  over  them,’ 
4 and  the  Egyptians  shall  serve  with  the  Assyrians.’ 

Similar  declarations  occur  in  the  harsher  language  of  the  prophet 
Ezekiel. — 4 1 will  make  the  land  of  Egypt  desolate  in  the  midst  of  the 
countries  that  are  desolate,  and  her  cities,  among  the  cities  that  are 
laid  waste,  shall  be  desolate  forty  years,  and  I will  scatter  the 
Egyptians  among  the  nations.’  But  at  the  end  of  the  forty  years  a 
more  terrible  and  lasting  degradation  is  pronounced : 4 and  I will 
bring  again  the  captivity  of  Egypt  into  the  land  of  their  habitation ; 
and  they  shall  be  there  a base  kingdom.  It  shall  be  the  basest  of 
the  kingdoms.’ 

Nor  can  we  look  upon  the  colossal  works  which  remain  to  fix  our 
attention  and  excite  our  wonder,  without  the  painful  remembrance 
that  they  are  to  Egypt  mighty  landmarks  of  her  ancient  servitude. 
The  very  greatness  of  the  pyramids  is  a speaking  proof  of  the 
despotic  power  of  one  iron  will,  brought  to  bear  with  a crushing 
and  irresistible  force  upon  a population  of  bondslaves.  How  futile 
would  prove  the  attempt  to  raise,  in  a free  land,  structures  so  vast 
and  of  such  comparative  inutility.  Thus  the  very  wonders  that 
attract  the  footsteps  of  the  pilgrim,  and  seem  to  be  the  glory  of 
Egypt,  distinguishing  her  from  all  other  lands,  cannot  be  contemplated 
without  a reminiscence  of  her  ancient  degradation. 

The  same  picture  of  a nation  of  slaves  rises  up  before  us  in  her 
modern  history.  From  the  days  of  her  subjugation  to  a false  creed, 


Vlll 


of  the  religious  domination  of  the  Caliphs,  down  to  the  slaughter  of 
the  Mamelukes,  by  that  hand  which  I saw  about  to  descend,  dyed  in 
blood,  to  the  grave,  the  history  of  Egypt  has  ever  been  the  same ; 
one  tyrant  over  an  oppressed  and  desolated  people.  The  facts  re- 
corded in  the  following  pages  bear  the  same  mournful  testimony ; 
and  whether  we  look  upon  the  cultivated  fields  which  the  poor 
peasant  cannot  irrigate  without  the  burden  of  a heavy  tax,  or  enter 
the  sugar  factories  of  the  tyrant  which  are  carried  on  by  forced 
labor,  or  behold  that  greatest  monument  of  modern  cruelty,  indiffer- 
ence to  human  life,  and  oppression,  the  Mahmoudieh  Canal,  torn 
up  amid  the  groans  and  cries  and  despair  of  starving  men,  women, 
and  children,  we  must  still  drop  a silent  tear  over  Egypt,  as  a Land 
of  Bondage. 


TABLE  OF  CONTENTS. 


PAGE 

Introduction  : . . . . . . . . .1 

Starting-  Point  — Rome,  ........  2 

The  Diligence  and  the  Robbers,  .......  3 

Naples — British  Policy,  ........  4 

The  Bay — Neapolitan  Degradation,  .......  5 

Detestable  Despotism,  ........  6 

Vesuvius  — Fantastic  Changes,  ........  7 

Naples  to  Messina,  .........  7 

Vesuvius  — Bay  of  Baiae,  ........  8 

Capri — Stromboli,  .........  9 

Scylla  and  Charybdis,  . . . . . . . • .10 

Harbor^ — Ruins,  . . . . . . . • • H 

Messina,  . . . . . . . . • .11 

Lemon  and  Orange  Trade,  . . . . . • • • 12 

Bombardment  of  Messina,  . . . . . • • .13 

Etna,  ..........  13 

Sicilian  Sunset,  . . .......  14 

Malta, 14 

Fortifications  — Health  Officer,  . . . . . . • • .15 

Valetta — Mainers  and  Customs,  .......  16 

St.  Paul’s  Bay, 17 

Malta — Melita,  .........  18 

Malta  to  Alexandria,  . . . . . . • • .18 

Fellow-Passengers  — a Portly  Monk,  . . . . • * 19 

Superstitious  Legend,  . . . . . • • • .20 


B 


X 


CONTENTS. 


PAGE 

First  Sight  of  Egypt,  . . . . . . . . 21 

Harbor  of  Alexandria  — Turkish  Fleet,  . . . . . . .22 

National  Banners — Arab  Servility,  .......  23 

Scenes  at  Landing,  .........  24 

Contrast  of  Customs,  ........  25 

Alexandria  25 

Thoughts  on  Alexandria,  ........  26 

Foundation  of  Alexandria,  ........  27 

Foundation  of  Alexandria  — Library,  . . . . . . .28 

Ruins  of  Alexandria,  ........  29 

The  Pharos  of  Alexandria,  ........  §0 

Pompey’s  Pillar,  . . . . . . . . . 31 

Cleopatra’s  Needles,  .........  32 

English  Church  — Toleration,  .......  33 

Passage  from  Alexandria  to  Cairo  : . . . . . . . 33 

Mirage  — Mahmoudieh  Canal,  ........  34 

Railway — the  Delta,  ........  35 

Thoughts  on  the  Nile,  .........  36 

Antoine  D’Abbadie,  . . . . . . . . 37 

Aspect  of  the  Nile  — The  Barrage,  . . . . . . .38 

The  Pyramids  — Cairo,  ........  39 

A Cruel  Frank  — Road  from  Boolak,  . . . . . . .40 

Mooled  E’Nebby,  . . . . . . . . . 41 

Residence  in  Grand  Cairo  41 

Fanaticism  — Arabic  Music,  ........  42 

A Grand  Panoramic  View,  ........  43 

First  Sunday  in  Cairo,  .........  43 

Church  Service  in  a Foreign  Land,  .......  44 

A Mohammedan  Crowd  — A Devotee,  . . . . . . .45 

A Downtrodden  People,  . . . . . . . 46 

A Day  of  Social  Gratification,  ........  46 

Turkish  Shops  — Hospitable  Reception,  ......  47 

Eastern  Forms  of  Salutation,  ........  48 

Salutations  and  Replies,  ........  49 

The  Bazaar  — Modes  of  Ablution,  . . . . . . .50 

The  Citadel  and  its  Environs,  .......  50 

Citadel,  Mosque,  and  Palace,  . . . . . . . .51 

Courts  of  Justice — Prisons — Joseph’s  Well,  .....  52 

Exhibition  of  Magic,  .........  53 

Form  of  Incantation,  ........  54 

El  Azhar  — The  Shining  Mosque,  • . . . . . .55 


CONTENTS. 


XI 


The  Principal  Mosques  of  Cairo, 
Benevolent  Uses  of  El  Azhar, 

An  Example  for  the  Church, 

Hassanin  the  Holy  — Rain  in  Egypt, 
Winter  Weather  in  Cairo, 

Dr.  Abbott’s  Museum, 

Dr.  Abbott’s  House,  . 

Objects  of  High  Antiquity, 

An  Egyptian  Charter  Party,  . 
Arrangements  for  our  Voyage  on  the  Nile, 
A Turkish  Bath, 

Garden  and  Palace  of  the  Shoobra, 
Servants  of  the  Pasha, 

Embarkation  on  the  Nile, 

Our  Nile  Boat,  . • . 

Another  Day  in  Cairo, 

El  Kaidbai,  .... 

Island  of  Rhoda,  .... 
Mosque  of  Tayloon,  . 

Arab  Music  and  Dance,  . 

Effects  of  a Tyrannical  Government, 

First  Visit  to  the  Pyramids, 

Egg  Ovens  — The  Egyptian  Hen, 

The  Pyramids  in  the  Distance, 

Manner  of  Building  the  Pyramids,  . 
Fruitless  Attempt  to  destroy  them, 

The  Ascent  of  the  Great  Pyramid,  . 
Prospect  from  the  Summit, 

Visit  to  the  Interior, 

The  Sphinx,  .... 
Original  Design  of  the  Pyramids, 

Design  of  the  Pyramids, 

The  Theory  of  Persigny, 

The  Sailors  of  the  Nile, 

Fare  of  the  Sailors  — Nile  Scenes,  . 
Meeting  with  Friends, 

Mode  of  carrying  Water, 

Gratuity  to  the  Sailors  — El  Fasher, 

A Sand  Storm  — Egyptian  Dogs, 

Training  of  Water-carriers  — Nile  Appetite, 
The  Trochilus  and  the  Crocodile,  . 

Gebel  E’Tair  — Coptic  Convent, 
Amphibious  Beggar  Monk,  . 

Shiftless  Arabs  — Raising  Water, 


PAGE 

55 

56 

57 

58 

59 

59 

60 
61 
62 
62 

63 

64 

65 

65 

66 
66 

67 

68 

69 

70 

71 

71 

72 

73 

74 

75 

75 

76 

77 

78 

78 

79 

80 
81 
82 

83 

84 

85 

86 

87 

88 

89 

90 

91 


CONTENTS. 


xii 


PAGE 


Sleeping  on  Watch  — A Delicious  Climate,  ......  92 

Aboofayder  — Nile  Scenery,  ........  93 

Osioot  — Competition,  ........  94 

Apathy  in  Trade  — The  Evil  Eye,  . . . . . . .95 

Mutual  Protection  — The  First  Crocodile,  ......  96 

The  Rais  and  Crew  — Dangerous  Pass,  . ....  97 

Amphitheatre  of  Hills  — Clear  Sky,  ......  98 

Copts  — Pigeons  — Slave  Boat,  . . . . . . .99 

Difficulties  of  Navigation,  . . . . . . . .100 

The  Date  and  Doum  Palms,  . . . . . . . .101 

Our  Successful  Voyage,  . . . . . . . .102 

The  Site  of  Thebes,  . . . . . . . . .103 


Thebes : 

Valley  of  the  Tombs  of  the  Kings,  . 
Tombs  of  the  Kings, 


The  Gates  of  the  Kings, 

Discovery  of  Belzoni’s  Tomb, 

The  Harper’s  Tomb, 

Ancient  Modes  of  Life  revealed, 

Motives  of  the  Constructors  of  the  Tombs,  . 
Egyptian  Idea  of  a Future  State, 

The  Plain  of  Thebes, 

The  Memnonium, 

Destruction  by  Fire  — Architecture  and  Sculpture, 
Temple  Palace  at  Koorneh  — Early  Rising, 
Courtesy  of  a Turkish  Governor  — Luxor,  . 
Obelisks  at  Luxor  and  Paris, 

The  Temple  of  Karnak, 

The  Arab  Chief  at  a Frank  Dinner, 

The  Harp  of  Memnon, 

Meedinet  Abou  — Tombs  of  the  Queens, 

Captive  Obelisks, 

Our  Last  Day  in  Thebes, 

Farewell  to  Karnak, 

Return  from  the  Tombs  of  the  Kings, 


103 

104 

104 

105 

106 

107 

108 

109 

110 
111 
112 

113 

114 

115 

116 

117 

118 

119 

120 
121 
121 
122 
123 


Voyage  down  the  Nile  123 

Visit  to  Dendera,  . . . . . . . . 124 

Temple  of  Dendera,  . . . . . . . . .124 

Decline  of  Egyptian  Architecture,  . . . . . . .125 

Athor,  the  Ashtoreth  of  Milton,  ........  126 

Symbolical  Design  of  the  Temple,  . . . . . . .127 

Shameful  Mutilation  — Symbolical  Sun  and  Moon,  . . . .128 


CONTENTS. 


xiii 


Cleopatra  — Head  Winds,  .... 
Egyptian  Guano  — Animal  Charcoal, 

The  Sugar  Factory  at  Farshiout, 

Process  cf  Sugar-making,  .... 

Oppression  of  the  Hireling,  .... 

Policy  of  Mehemet  Ali  — Ride  to  Abydos, 

Abydos,  ...... 

Beautiful  Plain  — Deceptive  Distances,  . 

Temple  and  Palace  of  Abydos  — Antiquity  of  the  Arch, 
Lord  Lindsay’s  Vision  of  Delight — Bedouin  Arabs, 
Illustrations  of  the  Bible  — Military  Station, 

An  Egyptian  Colonel  Commandant, 

Abooteeg — Caravanserai,  .... 

Life  of  the  Egyptian  Travelling  Merchant, 

Visit  to  a Coptic  Bishop,  . . . , 

Plan  of  a Coptic  Church,  .... 

Hospitality  of  the  Bishop  — Song  of  the  Boatmen,  . 
Degradation  of  the  Coptic  Christians, 

Interview  with  Pilgrims  — Their  Mode  of  Life, 

A Hermit — The  Church  Service, 

Tombs  of  Beni  Hassan,  .... 

Approach  to  the  Tombs  — Their  Antiquity, 

Original  Elements  of  Grecian  Architecture, 

Paintings  on  the  Walls  of  the  Tombs,  . 

Conjectures  in  relation  to  Joseph  in  Egypt,  . 

Manners  and  Customs  Delineated, 

Difficulty  of  Description  — Crocodiles, 

Continuance  of  our  Voyage,  .... 

Dark  and  Bright  Side  of  Monkish  Character, 

Our  Rais — Giving  a Name,  . . . . 

A Life-charm  — Climate  of  the  Thebaid, 

Returning  to  the  Pyramids  and  Cairo, 

Memphis  and  the  Pyramids,  .... 

Site  of  Memphis,  ..... 

Tombs  and  Cat-pits  at  Sakkara, 

Mummified  Cats,  ..... 

Symmetry  of  the  Great  Pyramid, 

Farewell  to  our  Boat,  . . . . . 

The  Dervishes  of  Cairo,  . * 

Interview  with  Sheiks,  ..... 

Singular  Services,  ..... 
Tricks  of  Dervishes,  ..... 

The  Hospital  and  Medical  School, 

A French  Mussulman  — The  Hospital,  . 


PAGE 

129 

130 

130 

131 

132 

133 

133 

134 

135 

136 

137 

138 

139 

140 

140 

141 

142 

143 

144 

145 

145 

146 

147 

148 

149 

150 

151 

151 

152 

153 

154 

155 

155 

156 

157 

158 

159 

160 
160 
161 
162 
163 

163 

164 


xiy 


CONTENTS. 


PAGE 

Arab  Students — The  Old  Pasha,  . . . . . . .165 

Life  and  Character  of  Mehemet  Ali,  . . . . . ...  166 

His  Policy  and  Tyranny,  . . . . . . . .167 

His  Private  and  Public  Habits,  . . . . . . . .168 

Presentation  of  the  American  Consul-General,  . . . . .169 

Abbas  Pasha,  the  Viceroy,  . . . . . . . .170 

The  Procession  of  a Bride  from  the  Bath,  . . . . . .170 

Nuptial  Ceremonials  in  Egypt,  ........  171 

Mode  of  Worship  in  the  Coptic  Church,  . . . . . .172 

The  Copts  — Their  Numbers  and  Character,  . . . . . .173 

The  Petrified  Forest,  . . . . . . . .174 

A Dinner  after  the  Turkish  Fashion,  . . . . . . .175 

Our  Departure  from  Egypt,  . . . . . . . .176 


The  Pyramids,  ..........  177 

The  Pyramids  of  Ghizeh,  . . . . . . . .177 

Solid  Contents  of  the  Great  Pyramid,  . . . . . .179 

Interior  of  the  Great  Pyramid,  . . . . . . . .180 

The  False  Pyramid,  . . . . . . . . 181 

Thebes,  ...........  182 

Interior  of  the  Tombs,  . . . . . . . . .182 

Tomb  at  Eilethyas,  . . . . . . . . . 183 

Gradual  Destruction  of  the  Paintings,  . . . . . . .184 

Representation  of  Ancient  Peoples,  . . . . . . .185 

Representation  of  Various  Trades,  . . . . . . .186 

Description  of  the  Memnonium,  . . . . . . .187 

The  Temples,  ..........  187 

Grand  Hall  of  the  Memnonium,  .......  188 

Egyptian  Art  of  Design,  . . . . . . . .189 

Enduring  Impressions,  . . . .’  . . . .190 


ILLUSTRATIONS 


1.  Cairo  and  the  Valley  of  the  Nile, . . . TO  FACE  TITLE. 

This  view  is  taken  from  the  Citadel,  which  is  on  a rocky  eminence  overlooking  the  city  and 
commanding  a fine  prospect  of  the  rich  valley,  with  the  majestic  river  winding  its  way  through 
and  running  towards  the  point  of  the  Delta  at  the  right  hand  of  the  picture,  where  it  divides 
into  distinct  branches.  The  Pyramids  of  Ghizeh  are  in  full  view,  and  beyond  them  the  range  of 
the  Libyan  Hills,  which  protect  the  valley  from  the  desert  on  the  western  side.  The  Mokattum 
Hills,  of  which  the  rock  on  which  the  Citadel  is  built  is  a sort  of  spur,  are  behind  the  spectator, 
and  bound  the  valley  on  the  eastern  side.  These  two  ranges  run  from  north  to  south,  and  are 
hardly  lofty  enough  to  deserve  the  name  of  mountains.  They  are  dreary,  desolate,  and  of  a 
sandy  or  yellowish  color,  without  a patch  of  green,  and  form  a striking  contrast  to  the  verdant 
valley  which  they  shut  in.  The  prominent  places  are  designated  on  the  engraving.  But  a few 
others  may  be  pointed  out.  The  palace  and  gardens  at  Shoubra  may  be  seen  at  the  extreme 
right,  in  the  far  distance,  over  the  wing  of  the  Mosque  that  lies  in  the  shadow.  The  arches  at 
the  left  are  the  aqueduct  which  conveys  the  water  raised  from  the  Nile  to  the  Citadel.  The 
magnificent  Mosque  in  the  Citadel,  built  of  alabaster,  which  was  begun  more  than  twenty  years 
ago  by  Mehemet  Ali,  and  is  now  nearly  completed,  and  the  place  of  the  Citadel,  with  the  exten- 
sive buildings  appropriated  to  the  Pasha’s  harem,  are  behind  the  spectator,  and  so  out  of  sight. 

The  soldiers  on  the  fortifications  are  an  exact  resemblance  of  the  Egyptian  foot  troops,  both  in 
costume  and  in  their  lounging  attitudes  while  on  guard.  The  fortifications  and  their  armament 
are  in  no  better  condition  than  they  appear  to  be  in  the  picture.  The  whole  picture  is  as  per- 
fect a representation  as  can  well  be  conceived. 


2.  Map  of  Egypt, 


PAGE 

TO  FACE  THE  INTRODUCTION,  1 


XVI 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 


TO  FACE  PAGE 


3.  Panorama  of  Alexandria, 25 

4.  A Street  in  Cairo, 41 


This  is  a good  representation  of  one  of  the  better  streets  in  Cairo,  and  of  the  mannerlin 
which  they  are  thronged  by  foot-passengers,  men  and  women  on  donkeys,  and  camels  carrying 
burdens.  This  street  is  comparatively  wide,  but  it  becomes  narrower  as  you  advance,  and  soon 
runs  into  a labyrinth  of  winding  passages  or  alleys,  so  narrow  that  three  persons  could  not  walk 
abreast  without  jostling  each  other.  From  daybreak  to  sunset  they  are  filled  with  an  active 
population,  and  if  you  are  riding  your  legs  are  in  constant  contact  with  the  foot-passengers,  or  in 
danger  of  being  jammed  to  the  wall  by  the  burden  of  a loaded  camel.  But  you  are  not  without 
fair  warning,  for  there  is  a constant  cry,  “ riglaJc,”  thy  foot,  “ yernbak ” thy  side,  “ shimalak”  to 
thy  left,  “ yemeewak ,”  to  thy  right,  and  so  on.  How  they  all  get  along  without  injury  is  a mys- 
tery, and  yet  I never  saw  a man,  woman,  or  child  run  over,  and  rarely  a stoppage  in  the  streets, 
and  then  only  for  a few  moments.  The  windows  of  the  houses  are  mostly  projecting,  and  are 
covered  with  a wooden  lattice-work  of  varied  and  often  very  beautiful  designs.  Thus  air  is 
admitted,  and  the  women  can  look  out  without  being  seen.  In  some  of  the  streets  these  pro- 
jections in  the  upper  stories  nearly  touch  and  sometimes  overlap  each  other.  The  women  of  the 
middling  classes  go  from  place  to  place,  riding  man-fashion,  as  is  seen  in  the  engraving.  Females 
of  the  higher  classes  ride  in  the  same  way,  only  they  are  usually  preceded  by  a black  eunuch, 
and  by  a number  of  their  female  attendants,  all  mounted.  The  face  is  always  closely  veiled, 
except  the  eyes ; and  the  head  and  person  are  covered  by  a large  loose  black  silk  garment,  held 
together  by  the  hands,  for  the  women  never  guide  the  animals  they  ride,  an  attendant  always 
leading  them.  When  the  wind  blows  this  silk  garment  puffs  out  and  gives  them  the  appear- 
ance of  a huge  shapeless  bale  stuck  upon  a donkey.  Multitudes  of  the  common  women  are  seen 
carrying  water-jars  upon  their  heads.  They  generally  wear  a black  veil  or  else  hold  the  loose 
outer  garment  over  their  mouths.  An  Egyptian  or  Turkish  woman,  if  her  mouth  is  carefully 
concealed,  thinks  that  nearly  every  precaution  which  modesty  requires  has  been  taken,  and  is 
careless  as  to  what  the  wind  does  with  the  covering  of  the  upper  part  of  her  person. 

5.  The  Bazaar, 50 

The  Bazaars  of  Cairo  are  in  the  central  portion  of  the  city,  and  consist  of  one  main  avenue 
with  many  branches.  They  are  narrow  like  the  streets,  and  differ  from  them  only  in  being 
fined  on  both  sides  with  open  shops,  and  covered  over,  where  there  is  not  a stone  arching,  with 
an  awning.  They  are  of  course  somewhat  darker  than  the  streets.  In  some  sections  a chain  is 
put  across  so  as  to  prevent  donkeys  or  camels  from  entering.  The  shops  are  all  small,  and  of 
little  depth.  The  owner  sits  cross-legged  upon  his  carpet  in  the  centre,  and  only  rises  to  reach 
his  goods  from  the  higher  shelves.  The  customer  never  goes  inside,  but  stands  before  the  low 
platform  in  front,  or  if  he  chooses  sits  down  upon  it.  A pipe  is  immediately  offered  him,  and 
the  process  of  bargaining  goes  on  between  the  puffs.  The  shop-keeper  always  asks  much  more 
than  he  intends  to  take,  and  the  buyer  offers  less  than  he  means  to  give  ; and  thus  the  chaffer- 
ing  goes  on  for  some  time,  unless  the  muezzin  from  the  nearest  minaret  calls  out  the  hour  of 
prayer.  This  for  a time  stops  all  business,  and  the  devout  Mussulman  goes  through  his  appoint- 
ed devotions,  indifferent  whether  his  customer  leaves  him  or  not.  Indeed  at  all  times  the  shop- 
keepers ply  their  trade  as  if  they  cared  very  little  about  selling  their  articles.  The  shops  are 
all  closed  before  sunset,  and  the  Bazaars,  crowded  throughout  the  day,  are  then  deserted. 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 


XVII 


TO  FACE  PAGE 

6.  Mosque  of  Sultan  IIassan,  55 

This  is  the  maiu  entrance  of  the  Mosque,  the  whole  of  which  forms  so  conspicuous  a feature 
on  the  right  band  of  the  general  view  of  Cairo  that  faces  the  title-page.  The  minarets  and 
the  cupola  or  dome  are  at  the  left  of  this  engraving,  and  hidden  from  the  spectator,  who  stands 
in  the  street.  The  carvings  of  the  front,  and  especially  in  the  porch,  are  extremely  beautiful,  and 
the  effect  of  the  whole  is  rendered  very  peculiar  by  the  mingling  of  layers  of  black  and  red 
marble  with  the  white  of  which  the  mosque  is  principally  composed.  In  the  street  is  a bridal 
procession,  such  as  is  described  at  page  170;  but  here  the  subject  is  one.  of  the  wealthier 
classes,  and  therefore  the  bride  is  covered  with  a canopy,  and  hired  musicians  playing  on  wind 
instruments,  drums  and  cymbals,  take  the  place  of  zughareet  or  the  shrill  cry  of  the  women. 

7.  Entrance  to  El  Azhar, 56 

The  principal  street-front  of  this  Mosque  is  by  no  means  as  imposing  as  that  of  Sultan  Has- 
san,  but  its  interior  is  far  more  extensive  and  magnificent.  In  the  street  are  seen  donkeys  capa- 
risoned for  the  use  of  women  who  are  coming  from  the  Mosque.  By  looking  at  the  donkey  in 
the  picture  of  the  Bazaar,  the  reader  will  see  the  mode  of  saddling  for  the  riding  of  men.  The 
little  boy  seated  at  the  door  has  just  come  from  the  school  held  in  one  of  the  large  squares  of 
the  Mosque,  and  has  in  his  hand  the  board  upon  which  the  pupils  are  taught  to  read  and 


write. 

8.  Interior  of  a House  at  Cairo, 60 

9.  Tombs  of  the  Memlook  Sultans, - 67 


This  is  an  accurate  representation  of  the  appearance  of  these  splendid  but  now  neglected 
edifices.  They  are  near  to  Cairo,  and  this  view  must  have  been  taken  at  a short  distance  from 
the  walls  of  the  city.  But  the  region  is  desolate,  — not  a sprig  of  verdure  is  to  be  seen,  and  the 
hills  beyond  are  naked  and  barren,  a portion  of  the  Mokattum  range. 

10.  Tomb  of  Sultan  Kaidbai, 68 

The  previous  engraving  shows  the  group  of  Tombs  and  Mosques  in  the  distance.  The  two 
in  each  case  are  united,  or  rather  the  Mosque  was  built  with  a view  to  its  being  used  as  a splendid 
mausoleum  for  its  founder.  This  gives  a near  view  of  the  most  beautiful  of  these  edifices,  all  of 
which  are  remarkable.  Their  proportions  are  different  but  symmetrical.  The  arabesque  tracery  or 
fret-work  upon  the  domes  and  minarets  is  exceedingly  varied  and  of  exquisite  designs.  It  seems 
as  if  the  eye  could  never  be  wearied  in  following  out  these  most  singular  geometrical  combina- 
tions. Mr.  Bartlett,  to  whom  we  are  indebted  for  the  picture,  thus  speaks  of  this  edifice : “ The 
lofty  minaret,  with  its  successive  stages,  tapering  gracefully  to  the  summit,  and  connected  by 
galleries,  is  a beautiful  specimen  of  this  unique  invention  of  Mahommedan  art  in  its  highest 
enrichment,  and  the  dome  is  perhaps  unequalled  for  its  graceful  proportion  and  its  delicate 
detail,  the  whole  producing  an  effect  at  once  grave,  elegant,  and  fanciful ; an  original  combina- 
tion, which  no  one  at  all  affected  by  art,  nor  even  one  of  a ruder  stamp,  can  possibly  behold 
without  a feeling  of  exquisite  delight.” 


11.  The  Ferry  at  Old  Cairo, 


71 


XV111 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 


TO  FACE  PAGE 

12  The  Pyramids, 73 

At  the  right  hand  is  the  Great  Pyramid,  that  of  Cheops,  which  we  ascended.  The  centre 
one  is  that  of  Cephrenes,  on  the  upper  portion  of  which  the  smooth  surface  or  casing  yet  remains. 

The  one  between  the  palm-trees  is  that  of  Mycerinus.  The  head  of  the  Sphinx  is  barely  visible, 
and  appears  like  a spot,  on  the  right  hand  below  the  small  Pyramids. 


13.  The  Sphinx,  78 

This  represents  the  object  as  seen  near  by,  the  spectator  being  in  the  hollow.  The  reader 
must  remember  this,  or  he  will  be  apt  to  get  a false  idea  of  the  relative  size  of  the  two  objects, 
the  Sphinx  and  the  Pyramids.  The  Sphinx,  though  so  colossal,  as  may  be  seen  by  comparing 
with  it  the  human  figure  near  by,  is  yet  nothing  in  comparison  with  the  Pyramids.  To  obtain 
an  idea  of  the  relative  masses,  see  the  previous  engraving. 


14.  A Slaye  Boat  at  Girgeh, 99 

15.  The  Shadoof  with  the  Date  and  Doum  Palms, 101 

For  a description  of  the  mode  of  raising  water  by  the  Shadoof  here  represented,  see  page  91. 

16.  A Map  of  the  Plain  of  Thebes, 108 

17.  Valley  of  the  Tombs  of  the  Kings, 105 

18.  The  Hall  of  Beauty, 109 

This  is  a portion  of  what  is  called  Belzoni’s  Tomb. 

19.  The  Plain  of  Thebes, Ill 

20.  Colossal  Statue  of  Rameses  the  G-reat, 112 

21.  Luxor  from  the  Water, 115 

22.  Obelisk  and  Propylon,  Luxor, 116 

28.  Approach  to  Karnak, 117 

24.  The  two  Colossi, 119 


The  nearest  is  the  Memnon.  The  engraving  represents  the  Nile  as  overflowing  the  plain, 
but  when  we  were  there  the  river  was  low  and  the  plain  dry. 


ILLUSTRATIONS.  xix 

TO  FACE  PAGE 

25.  Meedinet  Abou, 120 

26  Karnak  — Retrospective  Yiew  of  the  Grand  Hall,  . . . .121 

27.  Karnak  First  Court, 122 

28.  Karnak  Grand  Hall, 188 


Hebron, 


Salt 

Marshes 


Tfenhu 
el-  Gotta 


Ahausu^s 
Soldi tail* 
Utuhoiir 


Sf Anthony 


S ' Haul* 


ouna 


<let  <■  Sheikh  Hasson 


Yen/  Hasson 
hetl.Ji  Ahatleh 


dSossavr 
l Jebel  Abulledo 


Sheilti  Hetretli 


'khi  mm 


1 Hollar 


Hieytuleh  "fir-" 

THEBES  stfi? 

Sue,"'1' 

knaeiitx/ 


el  -Shay  eh , 


Jtdvr 


kfllbitt 


Aleilesieh 


'Silnleh 


am  Ombo 


(jitarmts-i 


' Hrreniee 


Knylish  Mile. 


el  Salahsheh ; 


Sntrnbnrtinn. 


A pilgrimage  to  Egypt  and  the  Holy  Land ! How  many  vivid  pictures 
of  the  ancient  time  and  the  oldest  world  rise  up  before  us  in  the  thoughts 
of  the  first ; and  how  many  sacred  and  long  cherished  associations  spring 
to  life  at  the  simple  mention  of  the  name  Palestine ! The  cradle  of  man’s 
civilization,  and  the  birthplace  of  two  and  the  only  Divine  religions  ! 
We  shall  see  the  Land  of  Bondage  and  the  Land  of  Promise ! Here  the 
slaves  became  God’s  freemen,  and  the  once  polished  and  highly  civilized 
people  of  the  Pharaohs  have  here  sunk  into  the  bond-slaves  of  the  Pashas ! 
Egypt,  the  birthplace  of  the  great  divine  lawgiver,  Moses ; the  school  of 
the  greatest  Greek  philosopher,  Plato ; the  land  of  the  first  mysteries  and 
miracles ; then,  and  now,  and  always  the  scene  of  that  ceaseless  wonder 
where  heaven  withholds  his  showers,  and  the  faithful  Nile  supplies  the 
lack  of  the  skies.  Egypt ! mysteries  of  priests  ; short-lived  triumphs  of  magic  ; 
undying  victory  of  Moses ; emigration  of  the  shepherd  people,  notwithstand- 
ing the  horsemen,  and  chariots,  and  armies  of  Pharaoh ; the  Ked  Sea  and 
the  river ; the  pyramids,  and  the  dumb  and  dead  hieroglyphics  to  which  the 
genius  and  industry  of  the  scholars  of  our  own  time  have  given  the  life  and 
living  tongue  that  they  wanted  during  so  many  hoarse  or  silent  ages — these 
all  are  before  us,  and  beyond  the  desert  lies  the  Promised  Land ! 


2 


STARTING  POINT. — ROME. 


ROME. 

January  22c?,  1849. — Last  evening,  with  Mr.  Minturn,  I left  Rome  for 
Civita  Vecchia,  to  meet  the  French  steamboat  for  Naples.  There  we  embark 
for  Malta,  our  starting  point  for  Egypt  and  Palestine. 

An  undertaking  so  full  of  interest  on  account  of  the  scenes  where  the 
chief  events  in  the  world’s  story  transpired ; a pilgrimage  which  few  devout 
readers  of  our  Holy  Books  have  not  longed  to  accomplish,  was  nevertheless 
begun  with  some  anxiety,  and  after  very  full  deliberation.  For  myself,  how 
much  soever  I desired,  I should  not  have  dreamed  of  attempting  it  alone, 
and  very  few  persons  would  have  satisfied  me  as  companions  on  that  journey ; 
or,  at  that  time,  have  induced  me  to  accompany  them.  It  was  hard  to  decide 
to  leave  my  wife  and  daughter  for  an  absence  of  some  months  at  the  least ; still 
harder  to  leave  them  at  Rome,  whero  there  had  been  just  apprehensions  of 
great  political  troubles.  But  after  full  inquiry,  and  the  counsel  of  friends 
who  had  the  best  chance  of  gaining  and  giving  correct  information,  we  found 
we  could  leave  our  families  with  a perfect  assurance  of  their  ordinary  safety. 
For  their  comfort  we  took  every  precaution. 

But  after  all,  our  courage  would  have  failed  in  the  end,  and  our  whole  plan 
have  been  abandoned  at  the  last  moment,  but  for  their  disinterested  expostu- 
lations. For  my  own  part,  my  solicitude  was  such  the  day  before  leaving 
Rome,  that  had  my  dear  wife  or  daughter  expressed  a single  apprehension  for 
themselves,  or  interposed  a solitary  objection  to  the  enterprise,  I should  have 
given  it  up  at  once.  But  they  generously  forgot  themselves,  and  thought 
only  of  the  satisfaction  I should  derive  from  this  journey  to  the  East ; and 
instead  of  saying  or  looking  any  thing  to  dishearten  me,  they  earnestly 
assured  me  not  only  of  their  willingness  but  of  their  anxiety  that  I should  go, 
and  with  the  utmost  cheerfulness  made  the  necessary  preparations  for  my 
departure. 

I bade  them  farewell ! — commending  them  to  the  God  who  saves,  and  who 


THE  DILIGENCE  AND  THE  ROBBERS. 


3 


will  ever  lead  and  keep  us  in  tlie  right  way,  if  in  faith  and  humility  we  follow 
His  monitions. 

At  the  office  of  the  diligence,  so  called  by  way  of  contrast  no  doubt,  we 
found  as  usual  in  Italy,  a great  want  of  the  quality  expressed  by  the  name. 
But  “ nothing  lasts  always neither  does  delay.  So  at  length  we  took  places 
in  the  coupe , or  front  house  of  this  slow  travelling  village,  and  found  to  our 
comfort  that  we  had  our  apartment  to  ourselves.  Two  other  undiligent  car- 
riages, well  filled  with  a pilgrim  population,  made  up  our  Italian  caravan.  We 
were  not  sorry  to  seem  so  strong,  for  come  il  solito , or  according  to  old  usage 
in  Italy,  there  was  talk  of  thieves  between  Rome  and  Civita  Yecchia;  and,  by 
the  same  custom,  the  sound  was  more  substantial  than  the  reality.  But  imagi- 
nation is  very  strong,  and  we  did  not  feel  the  more  secure  because  we  were 
told  of  the  highwaymen ; and  the  old  traditions  of  Italy  grouped  themselves 
together,  especially  as  our  journey  was  in  the  night-time.  We  looked  so 
forcible  that  we  saw  no  robbers.  We  were  however  stopped  once,  and  requested 
to  alight  and  walk  over  a bridge , said  to  be  unsafe  for  that  cumbrous  conglomera- 
tion of  loaded  apartments  called  a diligence.  I have  observed  constantly,  in 
Italy,  a commendable  watchfulness,  and  a prec^ition  to  avert  accidents,  which 
contrasts  favorably  with  our  national  and  hurried  recklessness  of  the  safety 
of  limbs  and  life. 

Arriving  very  early  in  the  morning,  we  refreshed  ourselves  at  a very  com- 
fortable hotel ; and,  on  rising,  found  that  the  steamboat  from  Marseilles  had 
arrived  the  night  before,  and  would  sail  at  ten  o’clock.  This  was  very  agree- 
able intelligence ; for  the  political  troubles  had  so  much  interrupted  the  com- 
munications that  we  had  some  fear  of  being  detained  at  Civita  Yecchia.  As 
there  is  little  here  to  interest  the  traveller,  it  would  have  been  peculiarly  tan- 
talizing to  have  been  kept  in  suspense  so  near  to  Rome  and  our  families,  and 
yet  be  unable  to  visit  them  for  fear  of  losing  our  passage.  At  the  appointed 
hour  we  went  on  board  the  Leonidas,  and  secured  the  only  state-room  left 
vacant.  She  had  her  full  complement  of  passengers  in  the  principal  cabin, 
and  a good  number  in  the  second.  Among  these  were  two  Franciscan  monks, 
on  their  way  to  study  Arabic  in  a monastery  of  their  order  upon  Mount 


4 


NAPLES. — BRITISH  POLICY. 


Lebanon.  As  tbey  seemed  to  be  amiable  and  intelligent  men,  I bad  a good 
deal  of  pleasant  conversation  with  them,  as  far  as  my  limited  knowledge  of 
Italian  would  permit. 

We  passed  Ostia,  the  ancient  port  of  Rome,  but  at  a considerable  distance, 
and  the  weather  being  somewhat  hazy,  we  could  see  but  very  little  of  it.  The 
cupola  of  St.  Peter’s  at  Rome  is  said  to  be  visible  in  clear  weather  from  vessels 
sailing  along  the  coast.  When  on  the  top  of  the  dome,  I could  distinctly 
discover  the  Mediterranean ; and,  of  course,  had  the  opportunity  been  favor- 
able, this  majestic  object  might  have  been  seen  from  the  deck  of  our  vessel. 
So  ended  the  first  day  of  our  journey. 


NAPLES. 


23d — I rose  early  this  morning  and  went  on  deck,  in  the  hope  of  obtaining 
a good  view  of  Vesuvius  and  the  bay  of  Naples  by  sunrise  ; bat,  to  my  disap- 
pointment, I found  that  the  ]^nd  was  almost  hidden  from  sight  by  heavy 
clouds  and  occasional  showers.  As  we  approached,  however,  the  clouds  began 
to  lift  up,  and  revealed  to  us  the  lines  of  houses  in  the  city,  and  the  white 
villas  climbing  up  the  sides  of  the  surrounding  hills.  We  sailed  through  the 
English  fleet,  lying  majestically  at  anchor,  and  showing  their  formidable  broad- 
sides to  the  people  of  Naples.  As  they  are  there  for  some  purpose  of  intimi- 
dation or  interposition,  I should  suppose  they  must  be  looked  upon  with  no 
favorable  eye.  The  policy,  so  utterly  disapproved  by  all  Americans,  of  one 
state  interfering  in  the  internal  concerns  of  another,  appears  indeed  to  me  to  be 
a very  mistaken  one.  It  has  certainly  cost  Great  Britain  immense  sums  of 
money,  and  loaded  her  with  a debt  which  can  never  be  paid  off.  Our  national 
debt  has  been  paid  several  times  and  will  be  paid  again  ; but  hers  can  be  wiped 
out  only  by  some  act  of  violence.  But  she  is  not  alone.  All  the  stronger 
nations  of  Europe  have  pursued  the  same  false  and  unjust  policy,  and  the 
weaker  states  have  been  often  obliged  to  relinquish  their  rights,  and  compelled 


THE  BAY. — NEAPOLITAN  DEGRADATION. 


to  submit  to  measures  which  they  utterly  disapproved.  Sometimes  their 
destruction  followed,  as  in  the  case  of  Poland ; but  who  is  ignorant  of  her  sad 
history  ? Such  subjects,  however,  are  not  within  my  province,  and  to  discuss 
them  properly  is  beyond  my  knowledge  or  capacity. 

From  these  reflections,  then,  I soon  turned  to  the  positive  and  the  material 
around  me.  The  clouds,  though  clearing  away,  had  not  yet  disclosed  the 
outline  of  the  mountains,  and  as  I wished  first  to  know  the  position  of  Vesuvius, 

I asked  one  of  the  officers  where  it  was.  “ There,”  said  he,  pointing  it  out, 

“ do  you  not  see  how  the  smoke  pours  out?”  Upon  looking  again,  I discovered 
a heavy  mass  of  what  I had  taken  to  be  only  clouds  rolling  away  from  the 
mountain,  and  could  distinguish  the  volumes  of  black  smoke  and  white 
vapour  mingling  with  the  ordinary  clouds.  Gradually  the  weather  changed, 
the  rain  ceased,  the  clouds  disappeared,  the  sun  shone  out,  till  Naples  and  its 
far-famed  bay,  stood  revealed  in  all  their  beauty.  A glorious  sight  indeed  it 
was  ; but  I must  not  attempt  to  describe  what  has  been  so  often  and  so  beauti- 
fully depicted  not  only  by  the  graphic  power  of  language,  but  in  the  vivid 
delineations  of  the  pencil.  Hence  every  body  is  familiar  with  the  beauties  of 
Naples  and  the  bay.  I will  only  say  that  the  reality  did  not  fall  below  the 
anticipation;  and  as  to  Vesuvius,  after  gazing  upon  it  over  and  over  again, 
during  the  whole  day,  we  both  came  to  the  conclusion  that  no  description  had 
fully  prepared  us  for  so  strong  an  impression  of  the  grandeur  of  the  burning 
mountain.  It  was  in  a state  of  great  commotion,  and  had  been  very  active 
for  some  weeks  before.  Sometimes,  at  night,  the  whole  bay  had  been  lighted 
up  by  its  fires.  In  addition  to  what  was  visible  to  us,  we  were  told  that  a 
stream  of  lava  was  then  issuing  from  a new  crater  which  had  recently  been 
formed  in  the  opposite  side  of  the  mountain. 

The  steamboat  which  was  to  take  us  from  Naples  to  Malta  not  having  yet 
arrived,  we  embraced  the  opportunity  of  going  on  shore  to  see  something  of 
the  city,  and  to  inquire  after  our  friends.  Naples  and  its  people  produced  an 
exceedingly  unfavorable  impression  upon  us.  From  the  little  that  we  saw 
and  much  that  we  heard,  we  believe  this  city,  with  its  noble  position  and  deli- 
cious climate,  to  be  almost  a mass  of  moral  corruption.  How  sad  for  human 


DETESTABLE  DESPOTISM. 


nature,  that  wherever  the  physical  blessings  of  heaven  seem  to  be  most  lavishly 
dispensed,  there  man  becomes  the  most  enervated,  degraded,  and  polluted : 

“ In  florid  beauty  groves  and  fields  appear, 

Man  seems  the  only  growth  that  dwindles  here.” 

From  the  king  and  queen  down  to  the  lowest  dregs  of  the  people,  unless 
they  are  most  grossly  traduced,  there  is  no  reverence  for  purity  or  truth,  and 
hardly  any  appearance  of  outward  restraint  to*protect  them.  We  had  not  been 
on  shore  an  hour  before  we  were  cautioned  to  put  our  pocket-handkerchiefs 
into  a breast  pocket,  lest  they  should  be  stolen  in  open  day.  W e were  told 
that  it  was  dangerous  to  go  into  any  but  the  most  public  streets,  lest  we  should 
be  stabbed  for  our  money  or  watches.  The  very  appearance  of  the  people  was 
disgusting.  Such  raggedness  and  filth  we  had  never  seen  before,  and  never  so 
many  human  beings  with  an  expression  indicating  violent  and  brutal  passions. 
Then,  as  regards  the  relations  between  the  government  and  the  governed,  they 
were  the  worst  possible.  The  answer  of  a German  resident  in  Naples  to  a 
friend  of  mine,  some  years  ago,  aptly  describes  the  actual  posture  of  affairs. 
The  way  being  stopped  by  a column  of  soldiers,  the  American  observed  to  the 
German  banker,  u I see  you  are  well  governed the  other  significantly  enough 
replied,  “ well  guarded  !”  The  king  is  almost  universally  hated,  and  in  order 
to  preserve  his  power,  had,  at  our  visit,  100,000  soldiers  in  the  city  ! Which- 
ever way  you  turned,  in  walking  around  or  through  Naples,  you  might  see 
cannon  pointed,  ready  to  be  discharged,  should  there  happen  the  slightest 
tumult  among  the  people.  The  American  charge  d’affaires  told  us  that  the 
government  had  sent  a message  requesting  him  to  caution  all  Americans  to 
keep  out  of  crowds,  as  the  people  would  be  fired  upon  at  the  first  appearance 
of  commotion.  That  this  threat  would  be  carried  out  was  evident  from  the 
cruel  and  fearful  massacre  that  had  already  taken  place,  when  the  myrmidons 
of  this  hateful  despot  destroyed  in  the  streets  so  many  of  the  defenceless  people. 
Under  these  circumstances  we  felt  rejoiced  indeed  that  our  families  were  not 
here.  Such  was  our  conviction  of  the  state  of  insecurity  in  which  we  found 


VESUVIUS. — FANTASTIC  CHANGES. 


7 


Naples,  that  we  should  never  have  dreamed  of  leaving  them  here  as  we  had 
done  at  Rome. 

The  expected  steamboat  came  into  the  harbor  in  the  afternoon,  but  so  late 
that  we  could  not  leave  before  the  next  morning.  However,  we  went  on  board 
that  evening,  and  found  our  quarters  more  comfortable  in  the  Scamander  than 
they  had  been  in  the  Leonidas.  The  deck  of  the  vessel  afforded  a fine  position 
for  a view  of  the  mountain,  and  we  had  hopes  that  we  might  see  something  of 
an  eruption ; but  we  perceived  only  a lurid  flame  shooting  up  occasionally 
from  the  crater.  A beautiful  effect  was  produced  by  the  lights  which  shone 
out  strongly  against  the  dark  mass  of  the  mountain  side.  Two  of  these  were 
very  large,  and  obviously  in  motion,  descending  the  mountain  slowly  like  balls 
of  fire.  We  supposed  them  to  be  torches  carried  by  parties  returning  from  a 
visit  to  the  crater.  The  appearance  of  the  city  by  night,  with  ten  thousand 
lights,  was  also  very  brilliant. 

After  a quiet  enjoyment  of  this  beautiful  scene  we  retired  for  the  night, 
and  thought  upon  those  dear  ones  whom  we  had  left  so  recently  at  Rome,  and 
of  others  far  away  in  our  own  beloved  land,  while  petitions  arose  for  their 
health  and  safety. 


NAPLES  TO  MESSINA. 

24 th. — I was  up  before  the  sun,  and  as  Vesuvius  was  the  last  object  of  atten- 
tion in  the  evening,  so  it  was  the  first  this  morning.  Volumes  of  smoke  were 
still  pouring  out  from  the  crater,  and  taking  all  manner  of  fantastic  forms. 
For  a few  seconds  nothing  would  appear  but  rolling  folds  of  white  vapor ; 
then,  suddenly,  a round  mass  or  ball  of  intense  blackness  would  seem  to  be 
thrust  up  by  violence  from  the  top  of  the  mountain.  Rising  higher  and  higher, 
it  would  now  take  the  form  of  an  immense  trunk  of  an  old  gnarled  tree,  with 
all  its  branches  lopped  off.  Then  again,  expanding  and  swinging  off,  by  the 
force  of  the  wind,  in  a lateral  direction,  it  would  seem  like  some  gigantic  four- 
footed  monster,  ready  to  leap  down  from  its  lofty  pedestal  to  the  plains  below. 


8 


VESUVIUS. — BAY  OF  BALE. 


At  other  times  it  would  appear  a moving  giant,  some  cyclops  escaping  from  his 
subterranean  labors  to  breathe  the  fresh  air  and  cool  himself  before  returning 
to  his  workshop  of  thunderbolts.  Thus  might  imagination  create  a thousand 
images  out  of  the  unshapen  and  ever-changing  mass. 

But  as  the  sun  came  up  behind  the  mountain,  the  black  smoke  seemed  to 
grow  trasparent,  and  was  tinged  with  the  brightest  hues  of  crimson,  like  some 
rich  mantle  fringed  with  gold.  At  last,  whether  from  increasing  familiarity  with 
the  scene  or  from  the  effect  of  light,  the  whole  subsided  into  a simple  moun- 
tain with  a smoking  crest.  Still  the  interest  remained ; for  there,  before  me, 
was  the  outlet  of  that  vast  body  of  fire  which  has  been  burning  for  countless 
ages,  and  which  finds  its  supply  of  fuel  we  know  not  how  nor  whence.  It 
affords  also  to  a thoughtful  and  devout  observer  another  evidence  of  the  power 
of  Him,  of  whom  it  is  said,  if  His  mercy  is  as  great  as  the  heavens  His  wrath 
is  like  a consuming  fire.  Would  that  the  fear  of  His  wrath  might  terrify  the 
profligate  inhabitants  of  the  city  and  country  which  lies  around  it  into  some 
respect  for  His  laws,  since  His  goodness,  showered  upon  them  in  the  richest 
abundance,  in  a delicious  climate  and  a fertile  soil,  has  not  won  them  to  grati- 
tude and  obedience. 

At  ten  o’clock  we  had  received  quite  an  addition  to  our  number  of  passen- 
gers. My  acquaintances  of  yesterday,  the  two  Franciscan  friars,  came  on  board 
with  another  and  older  brother  of  their  order,  who  was  on  his  way  to  Jeru- 
salem. The  steamboat  sailed  out  of  the  bay  with  calm,  clear  weather,  and  a 
bright  warm  sun  shining  over  our  heads.  This  gave  life  and  animation  to  the 
city,  and  to  the  whole  scene  of  circular  hills  and  mountains  studded  with  villas, 
so  that  we  could  realize  and  assent  to  all  that  is  said  in  praise  of  their  beauty. 
As  the  French  admiral  was  at  anchor  in  the  bay  of  Bake,  we  were  obliged  to 
go  round  to  communicate  with  him  before  sailing  for  Malta.  But  the  delay 
was  well  compensated  by  the  opportunity  which  we  thus  enjoyed  of  seeing 
this  celebrated  sheet  of  water,  and  of  recalling  all  the  associations  connected 
with  it.  It  would  be  impossible  to  pass  this  beautiful  and  famous  spot  without 
a recollection  of  some  of  those  incidents  in  history  which  here  transpired ; and 
the  classical  scholar  will  recall  descriptive  passages  in  the  Latin  poets,  repre- 


CAPRI. — STROMBOLI. 


9 


senting  to  the  mind’s  eye  scenes  which  now  became  familiar  to  our  physical 
sense : 

Nullus  in  orbe  sinus  Baiis  prselucet  amaenis. 

Here,  too,  we  looked  anxiously  for  a spot  more  interesting  still  to  the 
Christian  reader,  Puteoli,  the  harbor  where  St.  Paul  landed,  and  remained  seven  • 
days  on  his  journey  towards  Rome.  It  is  now  called  Pozzuoli,  and  is  in  the 
very  midst  of  a cluster  of  places  whose  names  are  associated  with  the  tomb  of 
Virgil,  the  Cumaean  sybil,  and  the  Elysium  and  Avernus  of  the  Latin  poet. 

Leaving  the  bay  of  Baiae,  we  sailed  by  the  island  of  Capri,  with  its  fantastic 
rocky  outline.  It  looked  beautifully,  rising  from  the  blue  sea,  and  with  its 
base  surrounded  by  that  purple  haze  which  gives  such  a fine  effect  to  Italian 
scenery.  The  day  was  most  delightful,  the  air  warm  and  soft,  the  sea  almost 
quiet  or  just  stirred  by  a gentle  breeze.  The  Italian  coast  was  rugged  and  bare 
indeed  in  appearance,  for  we  were  too  far  off  to  discover  the  vineyards  and  the 
olive  grounds.  Yet  the  glorious  tints  it  wore  under  the  combined  influence  of 
the  sun  and  the  haze,  gave  it  a rich  and  picturesque  appearance.  Towards 
evening  we  were  informed  we  should  pass  the  island  of  Stromboli  the  next 
morning  before  daylight,  and  I retired  early  with  the  purpose  of  rising  in 
time  to  see  this  remarkable  volcano. 

25 th. — Between  four  and  five  o’clock  Stromboli  was  said  to  be  in  sight, 
and  I instantly  arose  and  went  on  deck.  The  weather  was  not  very  favorable, 
as  it  had  been  cloudy  with  some  rain  ; but  we  could  plainly  discover  the  large 
mass  rising  suddenly  out  of  the  sea.  Its  shape  was  that  of  a cone  with  a broad 
base ; or  to  use  a familiar  comparison,  like  an  immense  haycock.  This  volcano 
is  in  perpetual  though  not  very  violent  commotion ; like  other  volcanoes  it  is 
said  to  be  more  agitated  in  stormy  than  in  fair  weather.  Very  often  a lurid 
light  is  seen  upon  its  summit,  but  we  saw  only  an  occasional  flash,  like  faint 
heat-lightning.  Stromboli  being  left  in  the  rear,  our  next  object  of  solicitude 
was  to  get  sight  of  the  Sicilian  coast  and  the  straits  of  Messina ; and  if  possible 
to  see  what  gave  rise  to  the  reported  fears  of  the  ancient  mariners  in  passing 


2 


10 


SCYLLA  AND  CHARYBDIS. 


Scylla  and  Charybdis.  As  we  drew  nigh  the  month  of  the  straits  we  were  all 
on  the  look  out,  but  we  entered  without  seeing  any  thing  that  would  excite  the 
slightest  apprehension  at  the  present  day.  • Opinions  indeed  are  divided  as  to 
where  the  rock  of  Scylla  was,  and  the  awful  whirlpool  of  Charybdis  seems 
almost  entirely  to  have  disappeared.  There  is,  indeed,  a slight  agitation  of  the 
waters,  occasioned  I believe  by  a current  which  passes  through  this  narrow 
part  of  the  straits,  and  during  the  prevalence  of  certain  winds  it  is  doubtless 
much  increased ; but  it  never  approaches  such  terrors  as  those  would  fancy 
who  know  it  only  through  the  descriptions  of  the  ancient  poets. 

Dextrum  Scylla  latus,  laevum  implacata  Charybdis 
Obsidet,  atque  imo  barathri  ter  gurgite  vastos 
Sorbet  in  abruptum  fluctus,  rursusque  sub  auras 
Erigit  altemos  et  sidera  verberat  unda. 

At  Scyllam  caecis  cohibet  spelunca  latebris, 

Ora  exertantem,  et  naves  in  saxa  trahentem. 

Or  as  Dryden  translates  the  passage : 

Far  on  the  right,  her  dogs  foul  Scylla  hides  : 

Charybdis  roaring  on  the  left  presides  ; 

And  in  her  greedy  whirlpool  sucks  the  tides  : 

Then  spouts  them  from  below ; with  fury  driven, 

The  waves  mount  up  and  wash  the  face  of  heaven ; 

But  Scylla  from  her  den,  with  open  jaws, 

The  sinking  vessel  in  her  eddy  draws, 

Then  dashes  on  the  rocks. 

The  fact  I suppose  to  be  that  men  who  were  accustomed  to  coast  along  the 
shores  of  the  tideless  Mediterranean  only,  magnified  the  dangers  of  this  narrow 
passage ; marked  by  a somewhat  strong  current  on  one  side  and  a rocky  shore 
upon  the  other.  As  it  was,  we  came  in  sight  of  Messina  without  hearing  the 
bark  of  the  dogs  of  Scylla,  or  the  roar  of  the  whirlpool  of  Charybdis. 


HARBOR. — RUINS. 


11 


MESSINA. 

Messina  is  beautifully  situated  at  the  base  of  a range  of  lofty  bills,  and 
possesses  a remarkable  and  very  secure  barbor.  Tbis  barbor  is  protected  by  a 
projecting  point  of  land,  which  together  with  tbe  main  shore  forms  almost  a 
circle,  with  tbe  exception  of  a space  sufficiently  wide  for  vessels  to  enter. 
From  tbe  surrounding  bills  it  presents  nearly  tbe  shape  of  a sickle.  In  tbe 
bosom  of  tbis  secure  and  spacious  bay  ships  of  any  tonnage  may  ride  at  anchor 
in  perfect  safety.  We  passed  a large  steamship  of  war  and  a French  line-of- 
battle  ship.  Tbe  first  thing  that  struck  us  was  tbe  ruinous  condition  of  tbe 
forts  upon  the  point  of  land  wbicb  forms  tbe  barbor.  Upon  looking  towards 
tbe  city,  however,  we  soon  discovered  that  it  was  even  in  a worse  condition ; 
not  only  were  tbe  forts  upon  tbe  heights  very  much  battered,  but  a large 
number  of  tbe  bouses  were  almost  totally  destroyed.  A line  of  very  handsome 
buildings  on  tbe  shore  was  undergoing  repair,  but  tbe  marks  of  tbe  destructive 
cannonading  they  bad  been  exposed  to  were  very  visible.  Many  boles  made 
by  tbe  shot,  large  masses  of  tbe  walls  thrown  down,  and  roofs  broken  up, 
clearly  showed  bow  much  they  bad  suffered.  Tbe  steamboat  having  to  remain 
two  hours,  we  went  on  shore.  Our  passports  bad  been  left  behind,  through 
tbe  negligence  of  tbe  commissary  of  tbe  boat  at  Naples,  and  we  were  therefore 
obliged  to  go  to  tbe  consul’s  office  to  obtain  new  ones ; here  we  met  tbe  captain 
of  an  American  ship  loading  with  fruit  for  Philadelphia.  Messina  is  one  of 
tbe  chief  ports  for  lemons  and  oranges ; they  are  raised  in  large  quantities 
around  tbe  city  and  upon  tbe  opposite  coast  of  Italy.  As  we  expressed  a 
desire  to  see  one  of  tbe  establishments  where  they  are  received  and  packed, 
tbe  captain  politely  offered  to  accompany  us,  and  took  us  to  tbe  warehouse 
of  some  merchants  who  are  very  largely  engaged  in  tbis  business.  We  were 
received  with  every  attention,  and  one  of  tbe  young  partners  waited  upon  us 
through  tbe  whole  establishment.  We  went  first  to  tbe  place  where  tbe  boxes 
are  prepared ; these  are  made  of  thin  strips  of  wood  nailed  to  three  thick 


12 


LEMON  AND  ORANGE  TRADE. 


pieces  which  form  the  two  ends  and  a centre,  dividing  the  boxes  into  two  com- 
partments. The  thin  strips  are  brought  ready  sawed  from  Trieste,  and  the 
solid  pieces  from  the  country  round.  These  boxes,  before  they  are  put  toge- 
ther, are  packed  in  bundles  and  sent  to  the  orange  plantations  in  the  country  ; 
there  the  boxes  are  nailed  together  and  filled  with  the  oranges  wrapped  in 
paper  brought  from  Naples  ; in  this  state  the  fruit  is  sent  to  the  establishment 
in  the  city ; the  boxes  are  then  opened,  and  each  orange  is  taken  out  of  the 
paper  and  examined  by  a woman  ; if  defective,  it  is  cast  aside,  if  perfect  it  is 
restored  to  the  paper  and  put  into  a pile,  where  a man  stands  ready  to  pack 
the  boxes  again.  The  fruit  is  carefully  placed  in  layers,  each  box  containing  a 
certain  number,  with  some  allowance  for  the  difference  in  size.  The  orange 
boxes  are  now  marked  and  are  ready  for  exportation. 

The  lemons  are  not  brought  from  the  country  in  boxes  but  in  bags  and 
hampers,  and  put  into  large  piles  in  the  warehouse ; here  again  a number  of 
women  are  occupied  in  examining  the  fruit ; the  perfect  ones  are  then  packed 
first  like  the  oranges,  but  the  defective  are  sent  in  baskets  to  another  establish- 
ment for  the  .purpose  of  making  lemon  juice  and  essence  of  lemon  for  exporta- 
tion. The  process  is  this  : a number  of  men  sit  around  the  pile  of  lemons,  and 
with  knives  cut  off  the  outer  peel  of  the  lemon,  so  as  to  take  nearly  the  whole 
of  it,  leaving  only  the  pulp  ; this  is  put  under  a screw-press,  the  juice  extracted, 
boiled  to  purify  it,  and  bottled  for  exportation.  The  lemon  peel  is  transferred 
in  baskets  to  another  set  of  men,  who  with  large  sponges  in  one  hand  obtain 
the  essential  oil  of  the  rind  by  pressing  the  pieces  hard  upon  it  with  the  other. 
The  sponges  are  now  and  then  squeezed  into  bowls  and  the  liquid  is  essence 
of  lemon. 

After  looking  through  this  establishment  our  new  acquaintance  offered  to 
conduct  us  to  the  place  where  the  city  had  suffered  most  from  the  bombard- 
ment of  the  Neapolitans.  I ought  tQ  have  mentioned  that  the  ruinous  state  of 
Messina  and  its  forts  and  houses  was  occasioned  by  a bombardment  which  lasted 
almost  a year.  The  Neapolitans  had  possession  of  the  forts  on  the  harbor, 
and  had  their  ships  at  anchor  in  it.  The  people  of  Messina  and  other  Sicilians 
held  the  town  and  the  fortress  above.  Thus,  for  twelve  months,  they  carried 


BOMBARDMENT  OF  MESSINA. 


13 


on  this  fratricidal  war ; the  Sicilians  contending  for  a constitution  and  their 
civil  liberties,  the  king  striving  to  maintain  his  hateful  despotism  by  a cruel 
warfare  against  his  own  subjects.  When  we  reached  the  interior  of  the  town, 
and  the  spot  where  the  hottest  of  the  fight  had  raged,  the  scene  was  appalling 
indeed ; whole  streets  were  in  ruins,  and  one  very  large  and  magnificent  church 
which  we  passed  had  been  destroyed,  a portion  of  the  walls  only  remaining.  We 
went  into  the  cathedral,  and  though  this  edifice  had  shared  a better  fate  it  had 
not  escaped  altogether ; for  a portion  of  the  exterior  had  been  injured,  and  we 
could  plainly  see  where  the  cannon-balls  had  pierced  the  door  in  a number  of 
places ; but  the  beautiful  altar,  formed  of  the  richest  marbles,  had  passed 
through  the  fiery  ordeal  uninjured.  Here,  for  the  first  time,  I saw  amongst 
the  stones  and  marbles  used  for  decorating  the  interior  of  churches,  what  we 
call,  in  common  language,  gold  stone ; a rich  brown  stone  full  of  brilliant  specks 
like  gold.  I had  before  seen  it  used  for  breastpins,  in  small  quantities  only, 
but  in  this  superb  altar  it  glistened  in  profusion. 


ETNA. 

Having  thus  obtained  a general  idea  of  the  town  under  the  guidance  of  our 
new  acquaintance,  we  embarked  again  and  made  our  way  out  of  the  port, 
admiring  once  more  the  beautiful  position  of  the  city  and  the  excellence  of  its 
harbor.  Etna  now  called  for  our  notice ; and  we  were  all  anxious  to  see  this 
grand  object  whose  name  had  been  familiar  to  us  from  childhood.  We  soon 
discovered  its  snow-crowned  crest,  and  the  evidence  of  its  volcanic  character 
in  the  vaporous  smoke  that  was  issuing  from  its  summit.  We  were  in  sight  of 
it  and  coasted  along  its  base  all  the  rest  of  the  day ; its  general  form  has  been 
made  so  familiar  to  the  eye  of  every  reader  by  frequent  engravings  that  it  is 
needless  to  describe  it ; it  is  much  loftier  and  covers  a far  larger  space  than 
Vesuvius,  but  it  did  not  impress  us  so  much  with  its  majesty.  However, 
Vesuvius  was  the  first  volcano  that  we  had  seen,  and  was  in  a state  of  far 
greater  activity.  Etna  seemed  to  lie  in  majestic  repose,  giving  evidence  of  life 


14 


SICILIAN  SUNSET. 


by  a gentle  breathing  only,  while  Vesuvius  seemed  ready  to  burst  forth  in 
some  agonizing  exertion,  and  to  be  restraining  his  fearful  energies  under  some 
awful  external  influence.  Thus  have  we  seen,  within  twenty -four  hours,  three 
of  the  most  famous  volcanoes,  and  those  best  known  to  history.  As  the  sun 
was  about  to  set  we  were  still  in  sight  of  Etna,  and  the  immense  mass  rising 
up  against  the  dark  blue  sky  formed  the  principal  feature  in  a sunset  scene, 
which  in  richness  of  color  exceeded  any  thing  I have  ever  witnessed.  As  we 
looked  from  the  deck  of  our  vessel,  the  sun,  ready  to  disappear  behind  the 
distant  land,  looked  out  from  a canopy  of  gold  and  purple  clouds.  In  this 
respect  the  light  was  not  more  beautiful  than  I have  often  seen  in  America ; 
but  stretching  along  from  this  canopy,  on  the  left,  the  sky  wore  the  most  exqui- 
site tint  of  orange,  and  green,  and  blue  fading  one  into  the  other,  and  shedding 
upon  the  land  a rich  warm  color  that  no  language  can  describe.  On  the  right 
was  Etna,  his  summit  of  snow  tinged  with  the  rays  of  the  setting  sun,  and 
deepening  from  the  top  to  his  base  in  varying  colors  of  orange  and  purple 
till  it  met  the  water  in  a dark  mass  of  vapor.  There  was  too  throughout  the 
atmosphere  a haziness  which,  while  it  obscured  nothing,  gave  a softness  to 
every  outline  of  the  land,  and  seemed  to  furnish  a medium  by  which  all  was 
blended  into  one  consistent  mass  of  varied  yet  harmonized  coloring.  This 
glorious  scene  faded  away  into  night,  and  we  began  to  think  and  speak  of  our 
expected  arrival  at  Malta  the  next  morning  by  daylight. 


MALTA. 

2 §th. — When  I went  upon  deck  Malta  was  in  sight,  and,  rapidly  approach- 
ing it,  we  entered  the  noble  harbor  at  eight  o’clock.  If  we  were  struck  with  the 
convenience  and  the  safety  of  the  harbor  of  Messina,  it  is  not  too  strong  an 
expression  to  say  that  we  were  in  perfect  admiration  with  this  of  Malta.  The 
island  itself  is  a mass  of  rock  in  the  midst  of  the  sea,  with  two  smaller  com- 
panions at  no  great  distance.  These  however  are  of  little  importance,  though 
Goza  derives  an  interest  from  the  supposition  that  it  may  be  the  fabled  island 


FORTIFICATIONS. — HEALTH-OFFICER. 


15 


of  Calypso.  Malta  is  tlie  key  to  the  Mediterranean.  The  harbor  is  com- 
pletely land-locked,  and  the  water  at  the  entrance  and  within  is  deep  enough 
for  ships  of  any  burden.  Its  fortifications  are  impregnable,  or  at  least  they 
seemed  so  to  us ; they  crown  every  point  of  rock  and  surround  the  city  in  line 
after  line,  so  that  an  attack  upon  Yaletta,  either  by  sea  or  by  land,  supposing  an 
army  could  be  landed  upon  some  other  point  of  the  island,  would  be  utterly 
hopeless.  As  soon  as  we  anchored  we  saw  the  first  evidence  of  our  approach 
to  a land  in  the  vicinity  of  the  dreaded  plague.  The  quarantine  laws  are 
extremely  rigid  here ; the  health-officer  approached  in  a boat,  and  when  the 
necessary  ship-papers  were  handed  to  him,  he  received  them  with  a pair  of 
brass  tongs,  fumigated  them  over  a chafing-dish,  and  then  with  another  pair, 
holding  one  in  each  hand,  he  opened  and  read  the  papers.  Finding  the  proper 
evidence  of  our  having  left  a perfectly  healthy  port,  he  dispensed  with  his 
tongs,  took  the  papers  in  his  hands,  and  gave  us  permission  to  communicate 
with  the  shore.  Immediately  a fleet  of  gaily  painted  boats  with  high  prows, 
which  had  hitherto  kept  at  a distance,  crowded  around  our  gangway,  filled  with 
boatmen,  agents  for  the  different  hotels,  valets-de-place,  all  calling  out  to  us 
and  striving  together  to  attract  our  notice.  W e made  our  selection  and  got 
into  a boat  with  a civil  and  active  valet-de-place,  who  continued  with  us  during 
our  short  stay  at  Malta. 

We  had  no  sooner  landed  than  we  found  we  had  taken  our  first  step  in 
Eastern  travel.  The  Arabic  language,  with  its  numerous  gutturals,  so  different 
from  the  soft  dialect  we  had  just  left  behind  us  in  Italy,  was  spoken  all  around 
us ; and  in  most  of  the  people  there  was  quite  a different  cast  of  countenance, 
and  one  that  clearly  pointed  to  an  eastern  origin.  As  we  walked  through  the 
streets  to  our  hotel,  the  whole  aspect  of  things  appeared  to  be  changed ; instead 
of  the  disgusting  filth  and  noxious  smells  to  which  we  had  almost  become 
accustomed  in  the  streets  and  the  houses  of  Italy,  we  found  a remarkable  and 
refreshing  cleanliness.  English  influence  had  produced  this  desirable  result ; 
aided  indeed  in  a good  measure  by  the  character  of  the  streets,  which  are 
singularly  precipitous.  You  mount  by  steps  from  the  water  side,  and  through- 
out the  city  you  find  many  of  the  streets  terminated  by  long  flights  of  stone 


16 


YALETTA. — MANNERS  AND  CUSTOMS. 


stairs.  The  rocky  character  of  the  point  on  which  Yaletta  is  situated,  rendered 
this  necessary ; the  whole  town  is  built  of  stone  of  a beautiful  yellow  or  cream 
color.  Brick,  I believe,  is  not  at  all  used ; at  least  I do  not  recollect  having  seen 
one  on  the  island ; but  the  stone  is  quarried  here  in  great  abundance ; when 
first  taken  from  its  bed  it  is  so  soft  as  to  be  easily  cut  into  shape  by  an  edge 
tool,  and  it  becomes  hard  by  exposure  to  the  air.  The  architecture  of  the 
houses  is  simple  and  in  good  taste ; one  peculiarity  is  that  every  house  seems 
to  have  a covered  projecting  stone  balcony,  which  can  be  inclosed  with  glass  or 
blinds.  These  balconies  contain  from  six  to  ten  or  twelve  persons,  and  are  a 
favorite  resort  of  the  inhabitants,  for  they  can  sit  here  and  enjoy  the  sun  in 
winter  and  the  cool  breeze  in  summer,  and  at  both  seasons  gaze  upon  the  throng 
passing  by.  The  streets  were  well  filled  with  a lively  mingled  crowd ; English 
soldiers  and  officers  in  their  red  uniforms,  sober  citizens,  many  of  them  English, 
in  their  ordinary  dress,  occasionally  Greeks  and  Turks ; and  most  remarkable 
of  all,  the  women  of  the  island  with  their  peculiar  mantle  over  the  head  and 
held  under  the  chin.  This  mantle  consists  of  black  silk,  oblong  in  shape,  and 
gathered  into  folds  on  one  side  of  the  oblong ; it  is  thrown  over  the  head  with 
the  gathered  part  on  one  side  of  the  face,  and  is  not  very  comely  or  picturesque. 
It  seemed  something  like  a silk  apron  without  strings,  thrown  over  the  head  to 
answer  a momentary  purpose  for  want  of  another  covering.  At  the  hotel  we 
got  a good  plain  English  breakfast  of  excellent  tea,  bread,  butter,  and  eggs, 
which  we  enjoyed  exceedingly  after  the  fare  to  which  we  had  been  restricted 
on  board  the  steamboat.  Finding  that  the  vessel  which  was  to  take  us  to 
Alexandria  had  not  yet  arrived,  we  determined  to  see  all  that  we  could  of  this 
interesting  little  island.  It  is  the  chief  stopping-place  on  the  great  Mediterra- 
nean highway  between  Europe  and  the  East,  and  would  seem,  since  the  intro- 
duction of  steam  navigation,  to  be  of  far  greater  importance  to  England  than 
even  Gibraltar.  National  pride  would  probably  never  submit  to  a peaceful 
relinquishment  of  the  invincible  rock  to  the  kingdom  of  Spain,  to  which  it  so 
naturally  belongs;  but  if  the  British  crown  were  constrained  to  part  with 
either,  it  would  be  the  latter  rather  than  Malta.  Indeed  nothing  can  be  more 
favorable  as  a naval  d^pot  and  stopping-place  than  Malta  with  its  spacious  and 


ST.  PAUL’S  BAY. 


17 


safe  harbors.  The  French  once  possessed  this  island  ; Napoleon,  in  his  early 
career,  when  on  his  expedition  to  the  East,  having  wrested  it  in  1798  from  the 
feeble  grasp  of  the  Knights  of  Malta.  But  in  1800,  after  a severe  blockade  and 
a persevering  and  courageous  defence  on  the  part  of  the  French  garrison,  who 
were  reduced  to  absolute  starvation,  it  was  captured  by  the  English,  who  have 
since  held  a possession  which  they  will  never  give  up  while  their  flag  can  float 
upon  the  Mediterranean. 

From  the  American  consul,  Mr.  Winthrop,  we  received  immediate  and 
constant  attention,  and  all  the  information  and  assistance  we  needed,  as  well  as 
a hospitable  reception  into  his  family  circle.  A week  or  more  could  have  been 
passed  here  agreeably  and  profitably,  as  there  are  many  objects  of  interest  to 
be  seen  connected  with  the  history  of  the  once  famous  but  now  almost  forgotten 
order  of  Christian  warriors,  whose  home  and  seat  of  power  was  for  so  many 
years  established  in  this  island.  We  were  anxious,  however,  to  push  on  to  our 
great  destination.  Having  made  all  needful  preparations  for  our  expedition, 
our  curiosity  drew  us  to  employ  our  remaining  time  in  visiting  points  remark- 
able for  traditions  connected  with  the  great  Apostle  of  the  Gentiles.  One  of 
the  most  interesting  features  in  the  history  and  the  natural  scenery  of  Malta  is 
St.  Paul’s  Bay.  The  constant  tradition  in  Malta  points  to  the  bay  called  by 
his  name,  as  the  place  where  the  Apostle  was  shipwrecked.  It  is  three  miles 
long  and  two  wide  at  the  entrance ; the  beach  is  sandy,  and  differs  from  the 
coast  around  the  harbor,  which  is  rough  and  rocky.  A small  island,  called 
Selmone,  on  the  north-west,  is  separated  from  Malta  by  a narrow  strait.  A 
tower  and  fortifications  raised  by  the  Knights  of  Malta  defend  the  bay ; a 
small  chapel,  built  on  the  supposed  spot  where  the  barbarians  kindled  a fire, 
contains  old  drawings  illustrating  the  landing  of  St.  Paul. 

A small  island  in  the  Adriatic  sea  named  Meleda  was  once,  as  well  as 
this  island,  called  Melita ; and  some  have  thought  the  former  was  the  scene  of 
the  shipwreck  ; many  arguments  are  adduced  on  both  sides.  In  the  27th  verse 
of  Acts  xxvii,  it  is  said,  “We  were  driven  up  and  down  in  Aetna.”  But  this 
word  anciently  included  the  whole  sea  between  Greece,  Italy,  and  Africa,  and 
therefore  does  not  mean  the  Adriatic  alone.  The  little  island  of  Meleda  is 


3 


18 


MALTA. — MELITA. 


nearer  to  the  month  of  the  Adriatic  than  any  other  in  that  sea,  and  might 
receive  the  wreck  of  a vessel  driven  from  Crete,  by  a S.  E.  wind ; but  this 
would  be  taking  it  for  granted  that  the  word  Euroclydon  (v.  14),  which  occurs  no- 
where else,  either  in  the  New  Testament  or  the  classics,  means  a S.  E.  wind. 
But  it  is  much  more  probable  that  it  means  a hurricane , without  reference  to 
the  point  from  which  it  blows.  Another  objection  against  Malta,  as  the  scene 
of  the  shipwreck,  is  derived  from  the  civilization  of  the  island,  spoken  of  by 
Cicero,  and  which  seems  to  disagree  with  the  expression  “ the  barbarous 
people,”  (xxviii : 2).  But  it  is  well  known  that  the  Greeks  and  Romans  applied 
the  epithet  barbarian  to  all  strangers  and  foreigners.  Again,  Pliny  says  there 
are  no  serpents  in  Malta ; but  snakes  have  been  found  there  six  feet  in  length  ; 
and  it  is  to  be  noticed  that  the  “barbarous  people”  seemed  surprised  that  the 
reptile  fastened  itself  upon  the  hand  of  Paul.  Another  objection  is  derived 
from  the  disease  of  Publius ; but  one  case  of  such  an  affliction  might  occur 
even  in  a dry,  rocky,  and  healthy  island  like  Malta. 

On  the  whole,  when  we  remember  the  course  which  the  Apostle  and  his 
company  took  from  Malta  to  Syracuse,  and  thence  to  Rhegium,  it  will  be  diffi- 
cult to  reconcile  it  with  any  other  situation  than  that  of  this  island ; and  when 
the  tradition  of  this  event  is  remembered  by  the  natives  from  time  immemorial, 
there  can  be  little  reason  to  doubt  that  the  common  opinion  is  correct,  which 
assigns  this  as  the  island  where  the  Apostle  was  shipwrecked. 


MALTA  TO  ALEXANDRIA. 

Steamboat  Lycurge,  on  the  Mediterranean,  within  a day’s  sail  of  Alexandria, 
January  81s£. — We  left  the  harbor  of  Malta  on  Saturday  afternoon,  the  27th. 
Our  accommodations  are  good,  and  our  fellow  passengers  very  agreeable.  We 
have  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Crosby  of  New- York,  with  her  mother,  several  gentlemen 
and  ladies  from  England,  an  elderly  Polish  count,  travelling  with  his  adopted 
daughter,  a French  consul  going  to  Cairo,  and  several  others.  A portion  of 
these  travellers,  the  Crosbys,  the  count,  and  some  of  the  English  wish  to  go  up 


FELLOW-PASSENGERS. — A PORTLY  MONK. 


19 


the  Nile,  and  if  a steamboat  can  be  procured  at  Cairo  we  shall  probably 
form  one  party.  But  all  this  is  very  uncertain,  as  we  learn  there  is  great 
difficulty  in  procuring  a steamboat,  and  without  this  we  shall  hardly  attempt 
the  enterprise  by  the  ordinary  slow  method.  The  boat  we  are  in  is  inferior  in 
speed,  or  we  should  have  reached  Alexandria  ere  this.  The  time  passed  as 
usual  on  board  the  boat ; at  dinner,  on  the  first  day,  we  became  acquainted 
with  our  fellow-passengers  and  with  the  officers  of  the  vessel.  Our  social 
relations  are  pleasant,  as  we  converse,  give  and  receive  information,  lend  books 
and  the  other  usual  et  ceteras ; the  dinner  hour  is  half-past  five,  and  the  style 
French.  Of  the  latter,  the  English  are  of  course  heartily  tired  ; and  as  to  the 
French  breakfasts,  with  their  multitudes  of  dishes  and  wine,  we  can  hardly 
endure  them,  but  submit  with  the  best  grace  in  our  power.  We  shall  be  right 
glad  to  get  simple  English  fare  again,  and  especially  a good  breakfast  of  tea, 
coffee,  bread  and  butter,  and  eggs. 

I have  before  spoken  of  two  intelligent  and  agreeable  monks.  I must  here 
introduce  one  of  a different  character,  and  who  certainly  would  not  belie 
Chaucer’s  description ; for 


“ He  was  not  pale  as  a forpined  gost ; 

His  bed  was  balled,  and  shone  as  any  glas ; 

And  eke  his  face,  as  it  hadde  ben  anoint ; 

He  was  a lord  ful  fat,  and  in  good  point : 

His  eyen  stepe,  and  rolling  in  his  hed.” 

After  dinner  he  would  appear  on  deck,  rosy  and  portly,  and  smoothing  himself 
down  complacently,  exclaim,  “ Buono,  buono !”  He  was  bound  for  Mount 
Lebanon  ; for  what  purpose  I cannot  tell,  but  certainly  not  to  preach  or  teach, 
for  of  that  there  was  no  shadow  in  him  ; and  certainly  not  to  learn,  for  he  was 
plainly  past  age  and  inclination.  His  sole  business  seemed  to  be  to  dispense  a 
couple  of  superstitious  papers,  and  to  receive  small  gratuities  from  those  who 
chose  to  bestow  such  alms ! How  much  the  edification  of  the  faithful  would 
be  advanced  by  his  labors,  will  appear  from  a translation  of  two  of  the  printed 


20 


SUPERSTITIOUS  LEGEND. 


papers  which  he  bestowed  upon  me ; they  are  declared  to  be  issued  with  the 
“ license  of  the  superiors,”  and  the  fat,  stupid  monk  seems  to  have  had  no 
suspicion  in  regard  to  their  authenticity.  That  such  wares  can  find  a market, 
speaks  sufficiently  as  to  the  state  of  some  classes  in  the  south  of  Italy.  Here 
is  a literal  translation  of  these  precious  documents  : — 

11 A copy  of  the  Narrative  which  was  found  in  the  Holy  Sepulchre  of  our 
Lord  Jesus  Christ. — Saint  Elizabeth,  Queen  of  Hungary,  and  St.  Bridget  having 
prayed  diligently  to  our  Lord,  desiring  to  know  the  extreme  pains  of  his  most 
Holy  Passion,  in  his  divine  goodness,  he  spake  thus  to  them : 1 Know,  dearest 
sisters,  that  the  soldiers  who  took  me  were  161,  besides  33  other  officers ; those 
that  bound  me  were  12,  and  they  gave  me  33  blows  on  the  head,  and  while  I was 
in  prison  they  gave  me  100  more,  and  two  severe  thrusts.  I fell  to  the  earth 
7 times.  They  followed  me  to  the  house  of  Annas  with  190  stripes.  They  gave 
me  18  blows  upon  the  shoulders  to  make  me  rise  from  the  earth.  I was  drawn 
upon  the  ground  by  a cord,  and  by  the  hair  of  my  head  70  times.  There 
escaped  from  my  breast  161  sighs  ; and  I was  dragged  by  the  beard  30  times. 
They  gave  me  at  the  pillar  where  I was  scourged  6666  blows,  and  spat  in  my 
face  121  times.  They  gave  me  a deadly  thrust  and  threw  me  to  the  earth  with 
the  cross  upon  my  shoulders,  and  with  the  cross  itself  gave  me  3 frightful 
blows.  The  drops  of  blood  which  fell  from  my  body  were  30660.’  ” 

This  admirable  and  instructive  document  then  goes  on  to  promise  “ to  all 
persons  who,  during  12  years,  shall  say  every  day  seven  Paters  and  Aves,  until 
they  shall  have  accomplished  the  number  of  the  drops  of  blood  shed,”  (the 
arithmetic  is  admirably  correct,  and  one  cannot  help  thinking  of  the  miraculous 
coincidence ; e.  g. 


Total  exact  number  of  drops  of  blood,  and  Paters  performed,  30,660 


I should  observe,  however,  that  the  29th  of  February  seems  unprovided  for.) 


Paters,  daily, 

Annual  number, 
Years, 


365 

7 


2555 

12 


FIRST  SIGHT  OF  EGYPT. 


21 


— “ and  who  live  in  the  holy  fear  of  God,  there  shall  be  granted  the  following 
graces : viz.,  plenary  indulgence  and  the  remission  of  their  sins,  and  although 
they  shall  die  before  the  devotion  is  done,  yet  it  shall  be  the  same  as  if  they 
had  finished.  Living  like  Christians  and  saying  daily  the  aforesaid  seven  Paters 
and  Ayes,  they  shall  escape  from  the  devil,  and  shall  die  an  easy  death.  Child- 
birth shall  be  without  danger ; and  in  whatever  hour  these  instructions  are 
followed,  there  shall  be  no  evil  dreams  nor  other  frightful  things.  Finally,  the 
faithful  who  thus  pray  shall  be  aided  in  the  hour  of  death  by  the  intercession  of 
the  most  holy  Virgin  Mother  of  God.”  The  other  paper  refers  to  seventeen 
sacred  and  remarkable  places  in  Jerusalem,  which  have  already  been  spoken 
of  in  the  “ Pathways  and  Abiding  Places  of  our  Lord.”  But  the  translation 
of  one  such  document  may  be  sufficient  both  for  the  faithful  and  the  un- 
faithful. 

On  Sunday  morning  I rose  very  early,  and  found  the  weather  pleasant  and 
sufficiently  warm  for  comfort.  As  there  were  several  English  persons  and  six 
Americans  on  board,  I proposed  to  celebrate  the  morning  service,  if  the  captain 
would  allow  us  the  u^e  of  the  cabin  ; this  was  readily  granted,  and  the  morning 
prayer  was  attended  by  all  who  understood  English. 

February  ls£ — A high  wind,  not  positively  a gale,  came  up  about  ten  last 
night,  and  the  rolling  and  pitching  of  the  vessel  surpassed  any  thing  I had  felt 
in  crossing  the  Atlantic.  I was  roused  from  my  half-slumber  by  the  rushing 
of  a sea  into  the  cabin,  which  wet  one-half  of  it,  leaving  me,  however,  still  a dry 
floor.  I was  up  before  the  sun,  which  rose  pale  as  the  moon,  shining  but 
dimly  through  a bank  of  vapor  upon  the  horizon.  A very  heavy  sea  was  still 
running  ; but  now  the  sky  is  clear  and  the  sun  shines  brightly.  We  hoped  to 
reach  Alexandria  ere  this,  but  have  now  lost  something  by  the  storm.  How- 
ever, after  a long  and  not  very  comfortable  passage,  we  came  in  sight  of  the 
shores  of  Egypt,  still  but  dimly  visible  through  the  haze  which  hung  over  the 
land.  The  water  began  to  change  its  color  as  we  came  upon  soundings,  and 
from  the  dark  deep  blue  of  the  Mediterranean,  it  assumed  a beautiful  light  blue 
tint,  as  if  it  were  a mass  of  pure  molten  sky.  As  there  is  no  mountain,  nor 
even  a high  hill  within  a long  distance,  the  coast  is  not  seen  until  you  are 


22 


HARBOR  OF  ALEXANDRIA. — TURKISH  FLEET. 


almost  upon  it.  As  the  steamboat  drew  near  we  discovered  the  lighthouse, 
which  appeared  like  an  obelisk ; but  this  was  an  illusion  of  fancy,  for  on  a still 
nearer  view  we  found  it  to  be  only  a tall  round  tower.  Next,  the  masts  of 
the  shipping  in  the  harbor  stood  out  like  a naked  forest ; and  at  last  we  saw 
the  crowd  of  windmills  for  which  the  point  of  the  harbor  as  you  approach  on 
the  right  is  famous.  As  the  wind  blew  freshly,  the  arms  of  the  mills  were  in 
violent  commotion.  Some  fifty  or  more  mills,  standing  so  near  together  that 
their  sails  appeared  ready  to  clash,  with  their  arms  dashing  around  at  the  height 
of  their  speed,  might  well  produce  upon  an  imagination  less  excited  than  that 
of  Don  Quixote,  the  impression  of  a fierce  army  of  contending  giants.  Nearer 
the  harbor  there  was  another  large  army  of  windmills,  but  these  were  at  rest, 
as  if  tired,  while  their  associates  had  just  started  with  vigor  upon  their  spell  of 
work.  As  we  approached  this  shore  we  could  plainly  see  several  Arab  villages, 
which  seemed  to  us  like  square  piles  of  unburnt  brick,  arranged  in  parallel 
lines.  The  absence  of  trees,  or  even  of  a single  blade  of  grass,  gave  them  a 
very  comfortless  aspect ; and,  unsheltered  as  they  are,  they  must  be  oppressively 
hot  in  summer ; however,  they  are  finely  situated  to  enjoy  the  sea  breeze. 
The  opposite  point  of  the  harbor  is  crowned  with  the  lighthouse  and  the  exten- 
sive buildings  of  Mohammed  Ali’s  harem.  The  Turkish  ships  of  war,  lying 
at  anchor,  now  loomed  up  at  a distance,  making  a show  which  a nearer  approach 
to  them  disappointed.  Only  one  seventy -four  appeared  to  be  in  tolerable  order; 
and  exhibited  her  full  broadside ; the  others  were  in  a dismantled  state  and 
showed  but  few  guns ; in  all  the  chains,  however,  a number  of  Turks  were 
sitting  and  lying  in  the  sun,  wrapped  in  grey  cloaks  or  blankets  and  smoking 
their  pipes.  This,  with  our  ideas  of  the  discipline  of  a ship  of  war  was  strange 
enough  ; but  the  whole  day,  from  its  dawn  to  its  close,  was  to  us  one  of  strange 
sights,  often  described,  indeed,  but  still  impressing  us  with  the  effect  of  novelty. 
The  Turkish  flag  was  flying  from  the  ships,  consisting  of  a red  ground  with  a 
crescent  and  a star  in  the  centre.  Miss  Martineau  has  called  it  the  handsomest 
flag  in  the  world,  and  yet  the  glorious  Christian  banner  of  her  own  country, 
with  its  cross  of  varied  color,  was  probably  floating  near,  as  it  now  is.  I could 
not  but  wonder  at  her  taste,  leaving  out  of  view  the  influence  which  an  excus- 


NATIONAL  BANNERS. — ARAB  SERVILITY. 


23 


able  religious  or  patriotic  prejudice  might  have  upon  it.  For  my  own  part, 
while  the  stars  and  stripes  are  to  me  a sight  which  in  a foreign  land  always 
fills  my  heart  with  delight  and  patriotic  pride,  I think  the  English  flag,  as  a 
national  banner,  lifting  up  the  Cross  on  high,  is  the  most  beautiful  in  the  world. 
When  we  add  to  this  the  power  of  association  which,  to  a Christian  mind, 
makes  the  crescent  the  lively  emblem  of  a false  faith,  while  the  once  despised 
and  accursed  tree  has  now  become  illustrious  as  the  banner  of  immortal  life, 
it  seems  impossible  that  a believer  should  for  a moment  exalt  the  waning  glory 
of  the  crescent  above  the  rising  splendor  of  the  Cross.  Since  it  was  borne  by 
the  despised  Galilean,  it  has  ever  been  the  true  honor  of  his  followers  to  be 
Crusaders  or  bearers  of  the  Cross. 

When  we  came  to  anchor  in  the  harbor  we  were  immediately  surrounded 
by  boats  rowed  by  men  of  all  colors  save  white,  and  dressed  some  in  the 
Greek  and  some  in  the  Turkish  costume  ; calling  out  to  us  in  guttural  Arabic 
and  broken  English  and  Italian  to  take  passage  with  them.  We  selected  one 
of  them  and  put  our  carpet-bags,  which  constituted  all  our  luggage,  into  it  and 
started  for  the  shore.  But  here  a sample  of  the  ways  and  manners  of  the  people 
of  the  land  presented  itself  before  we  reached  the  shore,  for  the  men  stopped 
rowing,  and  making  an  exorbitant  charge,  demanded  their  pay.  We  had  been 
forewarned  on  this  point,  and  turning  round  upon  them  we  ordered  them  in  the 
most  peremptory  manner  to  “ give  way”  or  bend  to  their  oars  instantly  ; nor 
was  this  all,  for  I lifted  up  my  umbrella,  the  only  weapon  we  had  between  us, 
as  if  I would  enforce  the  order  with  a blow.  Instead  of  rebelling  at  this  and 
perhaps  turning  back  and  making  us  get  out  of  the  boat,  or  tossing  us  over- 
board as  our  own  Whitehall  bargemen  would  have  been  inclined  to  do,  they 
sunk  down  at  once  and  most  submissively,  on  their  seats,  and  rowed  with 
unflinching  energy  till  they  landed  us  upon  the  shore,  and  there  gratefully 
accepted  one-third  of  the  sum  which  they  had  attempted  to  extort  from  us  by 
threats  a few  moments  before.  They  had  avoided  making  a direct  bargain 
with  us  before  starting,  intending  if  possible  to  extort  something  from  our  fears. 
No  doubt  they  sometimes  succeed  with  inexperienced  travellers,  but  the  mo- 
ment they  discovered  we  were  resolute,  they  gave  up  the  vain  attempt ; parley- 


24 


SCENES  AT  LANDING. 


ing,  however,  is  useless,  an  exhibition  of  force  alone  is  effective ; for  these  people 
have  grown  np  in  the  habits  of  the  crouching  slaves  of  despotism,  and  if  you 
speak  to  them  kindly  and  treat  them  with  gentleness,  they  interpret  it  as  a 
proof  of  your  weakness  and  grow  insolent ; while  from  the  force  of  habit  they 
crouch  and  yield  respectfully  to  the  strong  argument  of  threats  enforced  by 
blows.  Another  new  scene  and  a fresh  annoyance  met  us  as  we  landed; 
multitudes  of  men  and  women  with  camels  and  baskets,  and  innumerable  bare- 
legged Arab  boys  leading  donkeys,  beset  us  on  all  sides  and  vociferated  in  a 
jargon  of  tongues,  a perfect  Babel  of  languages,  that  we  should  employ  them 
or  hire  their  animals.  By  repeating  the  same  exercise  of  energy  and  firmness 
which  we  had  just  displayed  in  the  boat,  we  succeeded  in  keeping  our  luggage 
together,  and  at  length  transferred  it  to  the  care  of  the  nearest  and  most  decent- 
looking  person,  who  happened  to  be  a young  woman  with  a basket  nearly  as  large 
as  those  used  by  the  bakers  in  New- York.  Our  carpet-bags  and  cloaks,  with 
those  of  a fellow-passenger,  were  all  put  into  it,  when  the  woman  with  a little 
help  put  the  whole  mass  upon  her  head  and  walked  off  with  it  nearly  a mile, 
without  stopping,  and  tripping  along  as  straight  and  as  lightly  as  if  she  had 
nothing  to  carry.  We  rejected  all  the  bare-legged  boys  and  their  donkeys  and 
walked  on  through  the  Turkish  quarter  of  the  town.  This  consists  of  narrow, 
unpaved  streets,  with  flat-roofed  stone  houses,  the  doors  and  windows,  where 
there  were  any,  being  all  open,  and  in  and  around  every  door  were  crowded 
apparently  the  whole  population ; men  at  their  trades  or  smoking  pipes,  and 
women  with  their  faces,  all  save  the  eyes  and  sometimes  with  only  one  eye,  peep- 
ing out  from  the  folds  of  the  yashmak.  However,  the  glimpses  which  we  caught 
did  not  reveal  to  us  any  surpassing  beauty.  There  are  also  multitudes  of 
squalid  children,  but  these  seemed  the  most  natural  of  all ; for  they  were  play- 
ing and  gamboling  like  all  children  in  all  places.  W e encountered  all  the  way 
camels  with  their  outstretched  necks  carrying  all  sorts  of  burdens ; sometimes 
they  were  single  and  sometimes  they  strode  by  in  lines  of  three  or  four,  the  ‘ 
head  of  the  second  being  haltered  to  the  tail  of  the  foremost,  and  thus  they 
move  along  and  seem  to  do  the  greater  part  of  the  work  of  this  description. 
The  people  ride  from  place  to  place  upon  donkeys,  as  we  saw  but  few  carts  and 


CONTRAST  OF  CUSTOMS. 


25 


carriages.  Thus  nearly  all  the  merchandise  and  the  timber  and  other  materials 
for  building  are  carried  up  on  the  backs  of  camels.  But  notwithstanding  the 
lack  of  carriages  there  was  certainly  one  rara  avis  at  least  in  the  shape  of  an 
omnibus , which  looked  most  strangely  out  of  place  ; European  as  it  was,  how- 
ever, it  could  not  help  assuming  something  of  an  Eastern  character,  for  a bare- 
legged Arab  ran  before  it  and  cracked  a whip  to  make  way  for  it  among  the 
crowds.  In  other  cases  where  there  was  a carriage  we  saw  the  same  indispen- 
sable outrunner.  On  emerging  from  the  Turkish  town  we  came  to  the  Frank 
quarter  as  it  is  called,  which  is  a fine  open  space  surrounded  by  large  buildings 
occupied  by  the  foreign  consuls  and  by  the  principal  hotels.  We  were  domi- 
ciled at  the  Hotel  de  l’Orient,  and  found  it  in  most  respects  quite  comfortable. 
The  day  was  principally  passed  in  getting  information  and  in  arranging  for 
our  departure  to-morrow  in  a steamboat  for  Cairo.  The  evening  was  spent  at 
the  American  consul’s,  Mr.  Todd’s,  where  we  found  a small  musical  party  and 
had  some  pianoforte-playing  with  flute  accompaniment,  and  some  Italian  songs 
and  duets  by  an  English  lady  and  Mr.  Todd,  who  is  a Scotchman.  It  was  very 
singular,  after  going  about  all  day  in  a city  where  every  thing  was  new  to  us, 
and  like  what  we  had  read  about  but  never  seen,  to  spend  the  evening  in  a 
party  like  those  we  had  been  accustomed  to  all  our  lives.  Scarcely  any  con- 
trast could  be  more  striking  than  that  between  the  sights  offered  in  the  streets 
of  Alexandria  and  the  customs  of  a European  drawing-room. 


We  are  now,  then,  in  Alexandria!  How  many  visions  of  the  past,  how 
many  associations,  what  memories  rise  up  at  the  mention  of  that  name  ! The 
conqueror  of  the  world  before  Christianity  was  in  it,  has  been  declared  by  a 
conqueror  in  our  own  time  to  be  greater  in  this  than  in  his  victories ; that  he 


4 


26 


THOUGHTS  ON  ALEXANDRIA. 


built  here  the  city  which  should  bear  his  own  name,  on  the  borders  of  three 
worlds,  Europe,  Asia,  and  Africa,  on  the  banks  of  the  Nile,  on  the  future  great 
highway  of  commerce,  at  the  only  haven  on  the  African  coast  for  1500  miles, 
from  Tunis  or  Carthage,  and  in  the  kingdom  which  is  for  ever  associated  with 
ancient  civilization,  science,  and  art ! Alexander  the  Great  built  Alexandria 
more  than  three  centuries  before  the  Christian  era,  the  most  modern  of  all  the 
cities  of  Egypt,  and  yet  boasting  of  an  antiquity  equal  to  more  than  one-third 
of  the  world’s  own  age ! The  headlong  heathen  warrior  and  the  presumptuous 
son  of  Jupiter  Ammon  could  yet  pause  long  enough  in  his  mad  career  to  do 
something  besides  overrunning  the  world  and  pulling  down  the  works  of  other 
men,  to  build  a famous  city  of  his  own,  and  thus  leave  upon  the  banks  of  the 
Nile  the  brightest  and  the  only  enduring  monument  to  his  fame. 

Alexandria ! how  many  thoughts  are  embodied  in  the  reality  signified  by  a 
word ! The  mysteries  of  ancient  Egypt,  the  shadowy  learning  of  half-fabulous 
sages,  the  labyrinthine  magic  of  those  dim  and  unearthly  passages,  the  mystical 
schools  of  an  almost  mythical  priesthood,  the  doubtful  science  of  forgotten  ages, 
the  stammering  cradle  of  infant  learning,  the  birthplace  of  wisdom,  the  honey 
of  all  times  and  peoples,  first  heaped  and  hoarded  up  in  libraries,  the  translation 
of  the  sublime,  inspired  and  isolated  strains  of  Palestine,  out  of  the  solitary  and 
majestic  Hebrew  into  the  universal  and  mellifluous  tongue  of  the  light-hearted 
Greek,  the  preaching  of  a newer  covenant  by  St.  Peter,  and  the  episcopate  of 
the  evangelist  St.  Mark.  Alexandria ! the  saddened  mother  of  a world-famed 
heresy,  and  the  seat  of  the  sainted  Athanasius,  that  valiant  bishop  for  Christ ; 
the  present  overthrow  of  Christianity  and  the  insolent  triumph  of  a false  faith, 
planted  by  the  sabre  and  watered  by  blood;  the  fabulous  splendors  of  the 
Caliphate  and  the  romance  of  oriental  story;  the  fierce  flame  of  the  forced 
civilization  of  our  own  times  in  the  gigantic  enterprises  of  a self-willed  tyrant, 
and  the  tears  and  agonizing  throes  of  a desolated  land  and  a despairing  popu- 
lation ; — these  and  ten  thousand  unspoken  thoughts  rise  up  like  visions  at  the 
names  of  Alexandria  and  Egypt. 

Let  us  now  pause  for  a moment  on  the  threshold  of  this  famous  city,  and  at 
the  gate  of  Egypt  contemplate  thoughtfully  the  great  historical  picture.  Here, 


FOUNDATION  OF  ALEXANDRIA. 


27 


then,  stood  that  renowned  city  of  the  East,  which  in  her  golden  age  numbered 
three  hundred  thousand  free  inhabitants,  and  an  equal  number  of  slaves.  Now 
scarcely  sixty  thousand  submit  like  one  man  to  the  will  of  a single  and  brutal 
despot.  It  is  a melancholy  thought  that  in  an  age  of  boasted  progress  we  can 
stand  amid  the  ruins  of  so  many  past  glories,  and  evoking  the  melancholy  ghosts 
of  so  many  ancient  cities,  exclaim  of  them,  alas  ! 

Venit  summa  dies,  et  ineluctable  tempus. 


In  the  eloquent  language  of  that  heathen  traveller  who  vainly  endeavored  to 
console  the  Eoman  orator  with  the  best  but  melancholy  comfort  afforded  by.a 
pagan  religion,  as  yet  unblessed  with  the  light  of  life  and  immortality,  which 
may  be  thus  freely  given  : — “ As  I returned  from  Asia,  and  was  sailing  from 
iEgina  towards  Megara,  I began  to  look  upon  the  prospect  around  me.  Behind 
me  was  iEgina,  before  me  Megara,  the  Piraeus  on  the  right  hand  and  Corinth 
on  the  left.  What  cities ! once  how  flourishing,  now  overthrown  and  destroyed ! 
Alas ! I exclaimed  to  myself,  we  little  men  are  filled  with  grief  if  one  of  us 
dies  or  perishes  ! But  our  brief  life  should  be  yet  shorter,  when  from  one  spot 
we  can  see  the  corpses  of  so  many  dead  cities !”  * 

The  foundation  of  Alexandria,  which  to  us  of  the  present  day  has  a suffi- 
ciently modern  sound,  nevertheless  goes  far  enough  back  into  antiquity  to 
invest  it  with  the  poetical  veil  of  a fable  ; for  the  inhabitants,  who  once  knew 
more  of  Alexandria  than  our  modern  Egyptians  are  likely  ever  to  know  of  the 
Macedonian  hero,  whom  they  call  Iskander,  declared  it  to  have  been  founded 
in  consequence  of  a dream  of  the  king,  in  which  a venerable  sage  appeared  to 
pronounce  to  him  some  lines  out  of  his  favorite  poet ; upon  which  Alexander 


* Ex  Asia  rediens,  cum  ab  ASginS,  Megaram  versus  navigarem,  csepi  regiones  oircumcirca  prospi- 
cere.  Post  me  erat  iEgina,  ante  Megara,  dextra  Piraeus,  sinistra  Corinthus ; quae  oppida  quodara  tem- 
pore florentissima  fuerunt,  nunc  prostrata  et  diruta  ante  oculos  jacent.  Caepi  egomet  mecum  sic  cogitare  ! 
Hem  ! nos  homunculi  indignamur,  si  quis  nostrum  interiit,  aut  occisus  est,  quorum  vita  brevior  esse  debet, 
cum  uno  loco  tot  oppidum  cadavera  projecta  jaceant. — (Ser.  Sulpicius  M.  T.  Ciceroni  Cic.  Epist.  Lib. 
IV.  5). 


28 


FOUNDATION  OF  ALEXANDRIA. — LIBRARY. 


repairing  to  the  spot  declared  Homer  to  be  a good  architect  as  well  as  a great 
poet,  and  instantly  commenced  the  foundation  of  the  city  which  perpetuates 
and  illustrates  his  name.  Augurs,  omens,  and  birds  were  no  more  wanting 
than  at  the  foundation  of  Rome ; but  the  soothsayers  having  twisted  all  the 
bad  omens  into  good  auguries,  the  king  ordered  the  work  to  go  on  while  he 
crossed  the  desert  to  pay  a visit  to  his  celestial  progenitor  in  the  temple  of 
Jupiter  Ammon.  It  was  a cunning  device  on  the  part  of  the  king  to  make  old 
Homer  and  a ghostly  sage  coincide  with  his  mortal  sagacity. 

But  setting  fable  aside,  our  city  was  founded  A.  D.  332,  and  designed  by 
Alexander  to  be  the  centre  of  commerce  and  capital  of  the  world.  Ho  situation 
could  be  more  commanding,  and  few  harbors  more  secure  and  capacious.  It  is 
also  a wonderful  thing  that  this  city,  whose  prosperity  seems  to  have  been  once 
and  for  ages  destroyed  by  the  progress  of  science,  should  be  destined  to  rise  to 
opulence  again  from  the  same  cause.  While  the  discovery  of  the  mariner’s 
compass  and  the  passage  around  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  turned  away  from  this 
port  in  the  Mediterranean  the  wealth  of  the  Indies,  the  triumphs  of  steam  in 
our  time  will  again  make  Alexandria  what  she  was  four  hundred  years  ago, 
the  queen  of  oriental  commerce.  Singular  that  one  city  should  wax  and  wane, 
fall  and  rise  again  by  the  quiet  revolutions  of  so  many  ages,  and  owe  her  rising 
to  life  to  the  increase  of  the  same  science  which  once  appeared  to  have  inflicted 
upon  her  a mortal  blow  ! Hot  satisfied  with  her  strength  of  position  and  her 
commercial  advantages,  the  Ptolemies  made  her  still  more  illustrious  as  the  seat 
of  learning.  The  museum  of  Alexandria,  and  the  destruction  of  its  library  by 
the  ruthless  Caliph,  are  prominent  points  in  the  history  of  our  common  civiliza- 
tion. That  the  4000  baths  of  the  city  should  have  been  heated  during  the  space 
of  six  months  by  the  treasures  of  the  Alexandrian  library,  excites  scarcely  less 
wonder  than  the  conduct  of  the  Caliph  Omar,  who  could  issue  so  barbarous  a 
commandment ; — 700,000  volumes  ! what  a treasure  of  manuscripts  ! What 
trophies  of  learning  and  genius  then  fell  a prey  to  the  fierce  edict  of  a brutal 
conqueror ! The  mind  can  scarcely  contemplate  with  equanimity,  even  after 
the  lapse  of  many  centuries,  the  fearful  and  irrevocable  doom  of  the  fruits  of  so 
much  genius  and  intellectual  toil.  How  much  has  been  lost  to  mankind  by 


RUIN'S  OF  ALEXANDRIA. 


29 


that  single  act  of  the  bigoted  fanatic  ! £ All  wisdom  is  in  Alcoran,  and  all  that 

is  not  in  Alcoran  must  be  folly  ! Let  the  useless  perish !’  Never  was  there 
since  the  world  began  an  immortal  bad  fame  more  easily  gained,  and  by  the 
destruction  of  a far  grander  temple  than  that  of  Diana  of  the  Ephesians  I The 
fame  of  Eratostratus  grows  pale  before  the  fierce  and  lurid  glory  which  the 
Caliph  Omar  won  for  ever  by  this  detestable  bonfire ! 

But  let  us  rein  in  our  just  but  vain  indignation  while  we  turn  our  attention 
to  the  few  remains  of  the  ancient,  and  the  aspect  of  the  modern  Alexandria. 
The  ancient  city  appears  to  have  been  built  upon  arches,  some  of  which  have 
been  examined,  and  prove  to  be  partly  of  Greek  and  partly  of  Boman  origin, 
according  to  the  date  of  their  erection  ; though  the  former  are  not  sufficient  to 
establish  the  claim  of  the  Greek  to  this  chief  distinction  in  architecture  of  the 
Latin  era.  These  arches  are  now  so  much  buried  or  destroyed  by  the  accumu- 
lations of  ages,  or  by  the  ruthless  hand  of  the  unsparing  Muslim,  that  their 
place  is  better  determined  by  the  hollow  sound  beneath  the  feet  of  the  traveller 
than  by  any  visible  manifestation.  Doubtless,  if  these  heaps  of  rubbish  and 
ruins  over  which  our  donkeys  carried  us  could  be  removed  with  care,  an 
ancient  city  with  its  streets  and  houses  might  be  revealed  like  Pompeii,  and  the 
direction  of  the  streets  could  be  still  traced  by  the  wells  which  supplied  the 
inhabitants,  and  were  in  turn  supplied  from  the  great  cisterns  under  the  arches. 
But  the  workmen  of  Mohammed  Ali  have  little  time  and  no  inclination  to 
search  into  these  almost  speaking  records  of  the  past,  and  therefore  destroy  for 
building  materials  the  ancient  walls,  wherever  they  come  in  their  way,  with  the 
same  indifference  with  which  they  remove  the  modern  accumulations ; being  in 
utter  ignorance  whether  the  wall  which  they  tear  down  may  not  be  one  side 
of  an  almost  perfect  house,  that  requires  only  the  revelation  of  its  other  parts 
to  give  us  a correct  idea  of  an  ancient  building  of  Egypt.  The  only  objects  of 
universal  interest  that  still  remain  exposed  to  the  gaze  of  the  curious  traveller, 
are  Pompey’s  Pillar  and  Cleopatra’s  Needles ; and  both  these,  strange  to  say, 
have  been  recently  shown  to  be  falsely  named,  and  to  have  had  a much  more 
modern  origin  than  either  the  period  of  the  great  Boman,  or  the  time  of  the 
beautiful  queen. 


30 


THE  PHAROS  OF  ALEXANDRIA. 


Amid  this  mass  of  ruins,  these  mounds  and  heaps  of  brick  and  lime,  this 
countless  host  of  the  most  wretched  cabins  in  which  it  can  be  the  hard  lot  of 
human  beings  to  drag  out  a slavish  existence,  interspersed  though  they  be  with 
a few  magnificent  abodes  of  luxury  and  wealth,  how  difficult  it  becomes  to 
realize  the  fact,  that  power,  and  that  too  the  chiefest  power  in  the  world,  once 
sat  here  proudly  and  securely  enthroned ; that  art  has  here  accomplished  some 
of  its  most  illustrious  triumphs ; that  genius  has  hence  illumined  the  earth  with 
some  of  the  brighest  emanations  of  its  immortal  fires ; that  learning  has  here 
celebrated  many  of  its  most  glorious  victories ; and  that  beauty  once  sat  upon 
the  throne  of  Egypt,  encircled  by  the  dazzling  though  transient  halo  of  a 
world- wide  renown.  The  Romans  adjudged  to  Alexandria  the  first  place  among 
cities  after  their  own  proud  capital ; and  Gibbon,  the  best  of  authorities  upon 
such  a question,  says  that  11  the  lucrative  trade  of  Arabia  and  India  flowed 
through  the  port  of  Alexandria  to  the  capital  and  provinces  of  the  empire.” 
When  Alexandria  was  taken  by  the  Arabs  on  the  22d  of  December,  A.  D.  640? 
the  Muslim  general  Amrou  wrote  to  the  Caliph  Omar,  boasting  of  the  wonders 
of  the  city  which  he  had  taken  ; that  it  contained  four  thousand  palaces,  four 
thousand  public  baths,  forty  thousand  Jews  who  paid  tribute,  four  hundred 
theatres,  and  twelve  hundred  sellers  of  herbs.  He  sent  so  large  a quantity  of 
wheat  to  Medina,  upon  the  backs  of  camels,  that  the  Arabian  historian,  in  the 
style  of  eastern  exaggeration,  tells  us  that  the  first  of  an  uninterrupted  line  of 
camels  entered  Medina  before  the  last  had  left  Egypt.  It  is  not  to  be  forgotten 
that  the  mother  of  lighthouses,  the  Pharos,  one  of  the  seven  wonders  of  the 
world,  was  built  here  at  a cost  of  more  than  $700,000,  and  by  an  ingenious 
device  of  the  architect  the  inscription  declared  his  own  rather  than  the  fame 
of  the  royal  builder.  Under  these  words  on  stucco,  “ King  Ptolemy  to  the 
savior  gods,  for  those  who  travel  by  sea,”  the  cunning  builder  had  engraved 
upon  the  stone  itself  “ Sostratus  of  Cnidus,”  followed  by  the  same  words. 
When  the  stucco  fell  the  enduring  .inscription  remained,  and  gave  occasion  to 
Strabo  to  praise  Ptolemy  for  a modesty  and  generosity  to  which  he  had  no  real 
claim.  The  old  lighthouse  occupied  the  place  of  the  ancient  Pharos.  Sir  Gar- 
diner Wilkinson  makes  this  statement,  and  quotes  Pococke,  who  says  that  he 


pompey’s  pillar. 


31 


thought  he  could  discover  below  the  waters  some  fragments  of  columns  and 
masonry,  which  might  be  the  remains  of  that  famous  tower.  But  this  is  all 
very  uncertain,  and  it  is  hardly  probable  that  any  remnant  of  a building  so 
much  exposed  to  the  fury  of  the  elements  remains  to  our  time. 

There  are,  however,  two  monuments  of  antiquity  which  excite  universal 
interest,  though  probably  neither  of  them  occupies  the  ancient  site,  nor  are  they 
called  by  the  names  which  really  belong  to  them ; — these  are  Pompey’s  Pillar 
and  Cleopatra’s  Needles.  The  pillar  is  situated  at  the  distance  of  a short  ride, 
perhaps  one-third  of  a mile  from  the  city,  upon  a high  mound,  commanding  an 
interesting  prospect  of  the  Lake  Mareotis  and  of  the  modern  city.  The  column 
is  nearly  one  hundred  feet  high,  the  shaft  of  a single  granite  rock,  being 
seventy-three  feet,  and  the  lofty  pedestal  occupying  the  rest  of  the  height. 
Some  have  supposed  that  this  was  one  of  the  four  hundred  columns  which 
belonged  to  the  great  library.  Sir  Grardiner  Wilkinson  tells  us, — “ The  name 
given  to  this  column  has  led  to  much  criticism ; some  derived  it  from  Pompaios, 
as  having  served  for  a landmark,  and  others  endeavored  to  read  in  the  inscrip- 
tion the  name  of  Pompey  instead  of  Publius.  Others  again  erroneously  sup- 
posed its  Arabic  title  Amood  e’  Sowari  to  connect  it  with  Severus,  and  some 
even  attributed  it  to  Julius  Caesar.  But  Sari  or  Sowari  are  terms  applied  to 
any  lofty  monument,  which  conveys  the  idea  of  a “mast;”  and  the  inscription, 
of  which  Mr.  Salt  and  I were  enabled,  with  the  assistance  of  a ladder  and  by 
chalking  out  the  letters  to  make  a complete  copy,  shows  it  to  have  been  erected 
by  Publius,  the  praefect  of  Egypt,  in  honor  of  Diocletian.” 

By  flying  a kite  over  the  summit  of  the  pillar  some  young  Englishmen 
once  cast  a rope  over  it,  and  raising  themselves  to  the  top,  after  their  carousal 
displayed  the  English  flag ; which  they  naturally  forgot  to  strike  on  descending. 
The  next  morning  the  astonished  Pasha  discovered  this  nocturnal  annexation 
of  his  dominions  to  the  British  crown,  and  being  somewhat  angry,  to  foreclose 
any  future  attempts  of  the  kind,  forbade  the  ascent  of  the  column. 

We  were  unable  to  visit  the  catacombs,  but  a portion  of  our  party  who  felt 
less  interest  than  ourselves  in  the  ecclesiastical  antiquities,  visited  these  obscure 
and  now  almost  buried  remains  of  the  ancient  city  of  the  dead.  At  the  time 


32 


CL^OPATKA’S  NEEDLES. 


of  the  great  earthquake,  which  happened  about  the  commencement  of  the 
Christian  era,  the  catacombs  were  nearly  destroyed,  and  the  original  entrance  or 
entrances  were  choked  up.  The  passage  to  them  is  now  from  an  opening  near 
the  seashore,  and  many  of  the  chambers  are  so  blocked  up  by  sand  that  it 
is  very  difficult  to  enter  them  even  upon  the  hands  and  knees.  They  are  evi- 
dently the  work  not  of  Egyptian  but  of  Grecian  architects,  which  appears  from 
the  shape  of  the  doors,  pilasters,  and  sarcophagi. 

From  this  remarkable  object  we  rode  over  mounds  of  rubbish,  the  earth 
below  us  occasionally  giving  indications  of  buried  treasures  by  its  hollow  sound. 
We  next  came  to  Cleopatra’s  Needles.  These  are  two  obelisks  of  red  granite, 
one  standing  upright  and  the  other  lying  prostrate  at  some  little  distance,  and 
near  the  pedestal  on  which  it  once  stood.  It  was  overthrown,  however,  not  by 
an  earthquake  but  by  an  Italian  engineer ; and  though  given  to  the  English  by 
Mohammed  Ali  it  has  never  been  removed,  as  the  expense  would  be  great ; 
and  the  hieroglyphics  are  very  much  obliterated.  In  the  standing  obelisk  the 
inscriptions  on  one  side  have  been  in  a great  measure  worn  away  by  the  action 
of  the  fine  sand  blown  from  the  desert.  These  obelisks  formerly  stood  in 
Heliopolis,  the  On  of  the  Scriptures,  and  when  brought  thence  by  one  of  the 
Caesars,  were  placed  in  front  of  a temple,  of  which  there  are  now  no  remains. 
How  they  obtained  the  name  of  Cleopatra’s  Needles  is  unexplained ; but  it  is 
quite  probable  that  it  was  the  random  thought  of  some  ancient  traveller  which 
bestowed  upon  them  this  appellation.  They  will,  doubtless,  now  retain  the 
name  as  long  as  the  world  lasts. 

Wherever  the  ancient  mounds  which  surround  the  city  have  been  opened, 
the  remains  of  marble  columns,  statuary,  and  other  fragments  have  been  found ; 
which  lead  to  the  conclusion  that  if  Alexandria  should  ever  become  a place  of 
importance,  and  the  permanent  residence  of  a highly  civilized  and  enlightened 
people  and  government,  excavations  conducted  with  care  might  lead  to  the 
discovery  of  the  ruins  of  those  famous  buildings  whose  very  site  is  now  buried 
in  oblivion. 

As  this  was  an  ancient  ecclesiastical  see  of  great  importance,  and  was  once 
the  residence  of  the  Evangelist  St.  Mark,  we  naturally  felt  desirous  of  making 


ENGLISH  CHURCH. — TOLERATION. 


33 


some  inquiries  into  its  actual  religious  condition.  There  are  several  monasteries 
here,  and  one  of  them  professes  to  have  retained  some  relics  of  the  saint,  which 
were  afterwards,  however,  purloined  and  carried  to  Venice.  We  rode  through 
the  suburbs,  which  consisted  of  pleasant  villas,  until  we  came  to  the  Italian 
convent.  As  a religious  service  was  about  to  go  forward,  we  were  politely 
invited  by  the  priest  who  received  us  to  remain.  The  bishop  was  expected, 
but  finding  that  he  did  not  arrive,  after  waiting  some  time,  we  returned  through 
the  public  square,  where  an  English  church  was  in  process  of  erection,  which  I 
understand  has  since  been  finished.  It  stands  in  a commanding  spot,  and  its 
builders,  and  especially  Mr.  Todd,  deserve  great  praise  for  their  persevering 
efforts.  This  fact  will  also  exhibit  in  a strong  light  the  toleration  which  now  exists 
for  Christians,  in  a city  where  they  were  once  exposed  to  open  insult  and  even 
outrage.  The  policy  of  the  Pasha,  however  oppressive  to  his  own  subjects, 
has  certainly  been  of  the  greatest  service  to  strangers  and  travellers  ; for  they 
are  now  treated  with  respect  where  they  were  once  in  danger  of  being  stoned 
to  death. 


fcsagt  frnm  llmmkia  fa  Cairn. 

Feh.  2 d. — Early  this  morning  we  left  Alexandria  for  Cairo,  and  after  a short 
ride  in  an  Egyptian  omnibus  of  European  construction,  we  embarked  in  a 
small  steamboat  on  the  far-famed  Mahmoudieh  canal.  We  quickly  discovered 
that  the  mode  of  managing  steamboats  was  altogether  different  from  our  own  ; 
for,  at  the  proposed  hour  of  starting,  the  boat  was  thrust  aground  by  mis- 
management ; and  then,  instead  of  setting  poles,  to  our  infinite  amazement  at 
first,  and  amusement  afterwards,  the  Arab  fellahs,  without  the  slightest  hesita- 
tion or  regard  to  the  presence  of  the  lady  passengers,  threw  off  their  light  gar- 
ments and  took  to  the  water,  for  they  seem  to  be  almost  amphibious.  In  a 


5 


34 


MIRAGE. — MAHMOUDIEH  CANAL. 


short  time  they  pushed  the  boat  off ; the  captain  seemed  to  care  very  little 
whether  they  ever  got  on  board  again  or  not;  and  one  of  the  sailors,  a poor 
fellah,  was  kept  running  along  the  banks  at  least  for  two  miles,  while  his  clothes 
were  safely  deposited  with  us. 

As  the  canal  runs  through  the  Delta,  which  is,  of  course,  nearly  a dead 
level,  the  sail  would  have  been  monotonous  had  it  not  been  for  the  novelty  and 
strangeness  of  the  scene  through  which  we  were  passing.  For  the  canal  itself 
is  elevated  by  banks  above  the  surrounding  country,  and  we  could  behold  in 
every  direction  the  Arab  villages,  like  so  many  square  or  circular  mud  heaps, 
rising  upon  every  mound  and  secured  by  walls  of  earth  against  the  annual 
incursions  of  the  Nile.  Here  too,  for  the  first  time,  we  were  deceived  by  the 
mirage  of  the  desert;  for  looking  across  the  plain  of  sand  which  now  lay 
between  us  and  the  Mediterranean,  we  were  quite  sure  that  we  saw  the  water 
in  several  places,  interspersed  with  eminences  of  land,  and  here  and  there  a 
tower,  which  might  easily  be  taken  for  a lighthouse.  But  we  were  assured  it 
was  no  other  than  the  optical  illusion  which  is  so  familiar  to  the  travellers  over 
the  desert,  and  which  has  so  often  beguiled  and  deceived  those  who  were  ready 
to  perish  with  thirst. 

The  canal  is  about  seventy  miles  in  length,  and  connecting  Alexandria  with 
a branch  of  the  Nile,  makes  the  water  communication  of  that  city  with  Cairo 
perfect.  It  follows  a part  of  the  Canopic  branch  of  the  Nile,  which  has  been 
choked  up  since  Alexandria  was  built,  and  a part  of  the  ancient  canal  of  Fouah. 
The  remains  of  ancient  towns  are  occasionally  found  near  its  banks.  It  was 
dug  out  in  1819,  by  the  despotic  order  of  Mehemet  Ali;  and  the  cruelties  per- 
petrated upon  the  miserable  population,  in  its  execution,  almost  exceed  belief. 
They  are  graphically  portrayed  in  the  following  extract  from  the  eloquent 
author  of  the  Crescent  and  the  Cross : 

“ In  the  greatness  and  the  cruelty  of  its  accomplishment,  this  canal  may  vie 
with  the  gigantic  labors  of  the  Pharaohs.  Two  hundred  and  fifty  thousand 
people,  men,  women,  and  children,  were  swept  from  the  villages  of  the  Delta, 
and  heaped  like  a ridge  along  the  destined  banks  of  that  fatal  canal.  They 
had  only  provisions  for  one  month,  and  implements  they  had  few  or  none ; but 


RAILWAY. — THE  DELTA. 


35 


the  Pasha’s  command  was  urgent — the  men  worked  with  all  the  energy  of 
despair,  and  stabbed  into  the  ground  as  if  it  were  their  enemy : children  carried 
away  the  soil  in  little  handfuls ; nursing  mothers  laid  their  infants  on  the  shel- 
terless banks ; the  scourge  kept  them  to  work,  and  mingled  blood  with  their 
milk,  if  they  attempted  to  nourish  their  offspring.  Famine  soon  made  its  appear- 
ance, and  they  say  it  was  a fearful  sight,  to  see  that  great  multitude  convulsively 
working  against  time.  As  a dying  horse  bites  the  ground  in  its  agony,  they 
tore  up  that  great  grave — twenty-five  thousand  people  perished,  but  the  given 
contract  was  completed,  and  in  six  weeks  the  waters  of  the  Nile  were  led  to 
Alexandria.” 

I have  recently  met  with  the  following  notice  of  a projected  railway  be- 
tween Alexandria  and  Cairo.  If  carried  into  execution,  as  in  all  probability  it 
will  be,  sooner  or  later,  while  it  will  of  course  save  the  traveller’s  time  and 
enable  him  to  avoid  many  discomforts,  it  will  destroy  much  of  the  romance  of 
a visit  to  the  East. 

“ This  railway,  following  the  line  of  the  two  principal  canals,  will  not  have 
any  great  obstacles  to  encounter.  There  are  no  tunnels  to  excavate  or  cuttings 
to  make ; but  it  will  find  an  inconvenience  quite  unknown  in  Europe,  and  that 
is  the  Kamsin,  the  wind  of  the  desert,  which  arrives  charged  with  sand,  and 
which  leaves  such  sudden  heaps  behind  it.  The  circulation  could  be  sometimes 
interrupted  by  visitations  of  that  kind.  But  there  is  a means  of  guarding 
against  it,  for  experience  proves  that  this  wind,  which  generally  lasts  fifty  days, 
is  stopped,  as  if  miraculously,  by  the  interposition  of  alleys  of  trees.  It  is  in 
consequence  intended  to  plant  long  ranges  of  wild  fig-trees,  which  grow  per- 
fectly well  in  the  sand.” 

The  Delta,  so  famous  in  ancient  times  for  its  fertility,  was  once  watered  by 
several  branches  of  the  Nile,  which,  however,  are  now  all  choked  up.  This 
fruitful  plain  might  still  be  the  granary  of  Egypt,  were  it  not  for  the  fearful 
grasp  of  the  tyrant  which  has  palsied  the  hand  of  labor.  Singular  fatuity ! 
which  could  lead  the  despot  to  construct  a canal,  and  by  the  same  odious  fiat 
which  called  the  watery  way  into  existence,  destroy  the  producers  of  the 
wealth  that  should  have  been  conveyed  upon  its  bosom.  But  thus  is  all  tyran- 


36 


THOUGHTS  ON  THE  NILE. 


ny  short-sighted,  and  thus  does  the  Divine  Justice  cause  the  cruelty  of  those 
who  are  suffered  to  rule  to  prepare  for  itself  its  own  punishment.  The  despot- 
ism of  Mehemet'Ali  has  indeed  given  an  appearance  of  progress  and  of  pros- 
perity to  Egypt ; but  these  have  been  purchased  at  the  awful  price  of  the  teal's 
and  the  groans  of  a whole  people,  and  the  brightness  of  the  sudden  glow  which 
attracted  the  applause  of  Europe  may  be  but  the  too  vivid  precursor  of  embers 
and  ashes! 

Occasional  boats,  loaded  with  rice,  dates,  wheat,  and  a few  bales  of  cotton, 
passed  us  on  their  way  to  Alexandria ; but  there  was  little  to  remind  one  of 
the  active  commerce  of  the  Thames,  the  Hudson,  and  the  Mississippi,  until  we 
reached  Atfeh,  at  the  junction  of  the  canal  by  locks  with  the  Nile ; and  here 
the  boats  lined  both  sides  of  the  canal  for  two  miles,  and  gave  some  indications 
of  a more  prosperous  trade. 


THE  NILE. 

At  nine  o’clock  in  the  evening  we  reached  the  Nile,  and  although  in  the 
night  we  could  see  but  little,  yet  we  now  felt  that  we  were  on  the  mysterious 
river.  There  were  no  berths  in  our  boat,  and  the  substitution  of  benches  was 
not  very  comfortable ; but  the  interest  of  the  place  and  our  new  position  occu- 
pied our  thoughts  far  more  than  the  discomforts  of  the  cabin.  It  was  a relief 
to  escape  from  the  canal  and  its  inevitable  associations  with  the  cruelty  which 
presided  over  its  construction,  to  the  natural  grandeur  of  the  great  river  of 
Egypt.  Yet,  in  itself,  it  must  be  confessed  that  the  river  does  not  differ  in 
the  sameness  of  its  scenery  from  any  other  of  the  great  streams  which  flow 
through  a flat  country;  and  the  very  fact  of  its  annual  inundations,  which 
render  it  the  fertilizer  of  Egypt,  is  ■ necessarily  connected  with  a certain  tame- 
ness in  its  natural  features.  Yet  such  is  the  power  of  association,  that  the  Nile 
becomes  invested  with  that  indefinable  grandeur  of  thought  which  attends  the 
mind  to  the  remotest  antiquity,  and  singles  it  out  from  all  the  rivers  in  the 
world.  The  mystery  connected  with  its  inexhaustible  fountains,  and  the  almost 


ANTOINE  D’ABBADIE. 


37 


miracle  by  which,  like  a being  endowed  with  a knowledge  of  times  and  seasons, 
it  returns  to  its  punctual  overflow ; the  lamentations  or  the  joy  of  a whole 
people  who  literally  wait  to  cast  their  bread  upon  its  waters,  and  patiently 
expect  to  find  it  after  many  days — how  could  our  entrance  upon  the  Nile  be 
otherwise  than  interesting  amid  such  recollections  as  these ! How  many 
thoughts  of  the  civilized  world  have  been  turned  to  the  investigation  of  the 
questions  connected  with  the  Nile ; and  how  many  laborious  hours  and  even 
years  have  scientific  men  devoted  to  their  solution  ! On  my  return  from  Egypt, 
I was  happy  to  meet  in  the  boat  which  conveyed  us  back  to  Italy,  one  of  two 
brothers  who  had  just  been  spending  nine  years  in  the  interior  of  Africa,  in  the 
hope  of  determining  two  interesting  questions : the  central  point  between  the 
declination  of  the  needle  towards  the  east  and  the  west,  or  the  spot  where  it 
points  to  the  true  north,  and  the  sources  of  the  river  Nile.  M.  Antoine  d’Ab- 
badie,  and  his  brother  Arnauld,  nothing  daunted  by  that  ancient  work  which 
has  applied  to  a futile  enterprise  the  phrase,  Caput  Nili  qucerere , furnish  an 
example  of  that  enthusiastic  and  absorbing  devotion  to  science  which  has  had 
its  heroes  and  martyrs  in  every  age.  Their  names  are  already  familiar  to  the 
Academy  of  France,  though  as  yet  scarcely  known  to  the  American  reader. 
Hence  it  gives  me  great  pleasure  to  record  with  the  most  honorable  mention, 
the  fact  that  two  young  men  of  family,  fortune,  and  high  social  position,  to 
whom  a career  in  the  political  arena  or  a place  in  the  army  of  France  was  open, 
preferred  the  quiet,  less  dazzling,  but  more  useful  way  of  a nobler  ambition. 
They  left  all  the  allurements  of  a French  capital,  and  all  the  charms  of  their 
elevated  station,  for  the  privations  and  dangers  of  an  enterprise  which  has  dug 
a grave  in  the  desert  for  many  of  those  ardent  and  devoted  pupils  of  science 
whom  a cold  world  neglects  while  living  and  laments  when  dead.  M.  Antoine 
d’Abbadie  escaped  all  the  perils  of  the  African  journey,  and  now  stood  before 
me  in  the  vigor  of  manhood,  in  appearance,  manner,  and  costume  no  longer  a 
Frenchman,  but  an  Oriental  with  flowing  garments  and  a bronzed  complexion, 
and  evidently  imbued  deeply  with  Eastern  tastes  and  habits.  I listened  with 
deep  attention  to  his  recital  of  the  toils  and  difficulties  surmounted,  until  with 
his  brother,  having  penetrated  farther  into  the  interior  of  Abyssinia  than  any 


38 


ASPECT  OF  THE  NILE. — THE  BARRAGE. 


former  traveller,  they  planted  the  tricolored  flag  at  the  source  of  the  White 
River,  or  as  he  firmly  believed  the  original  fountain  of  the  Nile.  All  honor 
to  his  efforts,  whatever  may  be  the  judgment  of  future  times  as  to  the  cor- 
rectness of  his  decision ! By  recent  letters  from  this  adventurous  traveller, 
it  appears  that  he  is  now  engaged  in  a literary  contest  with  other  scientific 
men,  some  of  whom  have  attacked  the  truth  of  his  conclusions.  Confident, 
however,  of  the  final  triumph  of  his  cause,  he  says  with  admirable  energy, 
“We  lean  on  the  strength  of  that  sentiment  contained  in  the  adage,  which 
has  brought  us  thus  far  through  inner  Africa,  ‘ Time  respects  only  what  he 
has  built.’  ” 

Feb.  3 d. — Rising  early  this  morning,  I saw  the  sun  come  up  in  all  his  bright- 
ness over  the  majestic  river.  I was  struck  with  the  coolness  of  the  morning, 
the  thermometer  indicating  so  low  a temperature  as  48°.  For  the  first  time  the 
peculiar  features  of  the  Nile  revealed  themselves  ; its  winding  course  through  a 
narrow,  fertile  valley,  the  picturesque  villages  upon  every  mound  or  slight 
elevation,  interspersed  with  palm-trees,  the  increasing  number  of  vessels,  the 
boats  with  their  latteen  sails  seen  at  a great  distance  and  across  the  points  of 
land  formed  by  the  sinuosities  of  the  river,  and  more  striking  than  all  the  hills 
of  sand  which  on  the  right  side  of  the  river  bounded  the  verdure  of  the  valley, 
where  a constant  warfare  seems  to  be  maintained  between  the  encroachments 
of  the  desert  and  the  fertilizing  stream.  In  one  case  a village  appeared  to  be 
entirely  surrounded  or  choked  by  the  advancing  sand,  which  at  this  point  had 
reached  the  very  banks  of  the  river  itself. 

The  branches  of  the  Nile  are  now  reduced  to  two.  W e had  been  ascending 
the  Rosetta  branch  of  the  river,  and  now  came  within  view  of  one  of  the  most 
stupendous  of  the  undertakings  of  Mekemet  Ali.  This  is  the  proposed  barrage , 
or  great  dam  of  the  two  branches  of  the  river.  The  object  is  to  dam  up  the 
Nile  and  afford  a supply  of  water  to.  the  Delta  in  the  case  of  a deficient  inunda- 
tion, and  during  the  drought  of  what  is  called  the  low  Nile.  By  means  of  the 
projected  dams,  and  a large  canal  cut  through  the  centre  of  the  Delta,  it  is 
thought  that  the  expensive  cultivation  by  the  use  of  water-wheels  may  be 
avoided.  The  Rosetta  branch  is  the  widest,  and  the  strong  stone  dam  was  to 


THE  PYRAMIDS. — CAIRO. 


39 


consist  of  twenty-four  arches,  each  thirty  feet  wide,  and  a central  arch  of  ninety- 
two  feet ; the  Damietta  branch  of  sixteen  similar  arches  and  the  central ; the 
latter  to  be  left  open  always  to  carry  off  the  main  flood,  and  the  smaller  to  be 
closed  at  the  low  season  to  feed  the  canals  of  the  Delta.  The  work  is  yet 
unfinished,  and  great  doubts  may  be  reasonably  entertained  as  to  its  final  suc- 
cess should  this  unique  undertaking  ever  be  brought  to  a conclusion.  For  the  soil 
is  alluvial,  and  the  power  of  such  a huge  body  of  water,  in  sapping  the  insecure 
foundations  of  the  abutments  and  even  of  making  a new  channel  for  the  river 
itself,  yet  remains  to  be  tested ; and  the  fears  of  scientific  men  may  probably 
prevent  this  gigantic  enterprise  from  becoming  more  than  a monument  that  the 
will  of  the  despot  was  compelled,  for  once  at  least,  to  yield  to  his  inability  to 
triumph  over  the  obstacles  of  nature.  A little  beyond  the  barrage  of  the 
Rosetta  branch  we  reached  the  main  body  of  the  river,  and  now  felt  that  we 
were  indeed  upon  the  Nile.  Here  we  looked  out  anxiously  towards  the  south 
for  the  first  view  of  the  pyramids,  and  after  a little  time  discovered  in  the  far 
distance  what  appeared  to  be  three  haycocks.  Though  we  knew  very  well  that 
their  outlines  were  straight  and  triangular,  yet  they  seemed  to  be  rounded, 
according  to  the  fashion  of  the  unsubstantial  material  to  which  I have  dared  to 
compare  them,  and  by  no  effort  of  the  imagination  could  we  get  up  the  amount 
of  enthusiasm  necessary  for  so  decisive  a moment  as  a first  view  of  the  pyramids 
of  Egypt.  As  we  advanced,  however,  they  seemed  to  increase  in  size,  and  their 
outlines  became  more  and  more  distinct. 


APPROACH  TO  CAIRO. 

But  now  a new  object  arrested  our  attention ; the  city  of  Cairo  itself  appeared 
upon  the  left  hand,  rising  above  the  green  fields,  which  grew  more  and*  more 
fertile  as  we  drew  near  the  termination  of  our  voyage.  The  city  looms  up  from 
the  surrounding  plain,  and  with  its  minarets,  its  citadel  upon  a lofty  rock, 
where  a new  and  very  splendid  mosque  was  building  by  the  Pasha,  it  forms  a 
striking  object  in  the  landscape.  It  stands  too  amidst  luxuriant  groves  of  syca- 


40 


A CRUEL  FRANK. — ROAD  FROM  BOOLAK. 


mores  and  palm-trees,  and  is  beautifully  surrounded  by  fig-trees,  orange-trees, 
and  olive-yards.  About  six  miles  before  reaching  the  city  you  pass  the  favorite 
palace  of  Mehemet  Ali,  Shoobra,  in  the  midst  of  a grove  of  apricots,  olives,  and 
fig-trees.  A crowd  of  boats  lining  the  left  bank  of  the  river,  and  a considerable 
village  soon  furnished  an  indication  that  we  had  reached  Boolak,  the  port  of 
Cairo.  We  landed,  and  our  luggage  being  but  little  in  quantity,  was  soon  dis- 
posed of  at  the  custom-house.  Here,  as  at  Alexandria,  we  were  surrounded  by 
men  and  boys  all  eager  to  get  possession  of  our  luggage.  A crowd  of  camels 
raising  their  ugly  heads  far  above  us,  gave  a sufficiently  oriental  appearance  to 
the  scene.  W e,  however,  selected  the  humbler  donkeys,  and  it  was  on  our  way 
to  Cairo  that  we  saw  a remarkable  example  of  the  degradation  of  the  miserable 
inhabitants  of  this  enslaved  country.  A runner,  apparently  a Frenchman,  went 
up  to  one  of  the  poor  fellahs  who  was  seeking  employment  for  himself  and  his 
donkey,  and  with  a koorbash  or  whip  made  of  the  hide  of  the  rhinoceros,  began 
to  lash  him  over  the  head  and  back  in  the  most  cruel  and  unsparing  manner. 
Our  indignation  was  roused,  and  with  the  warm  impulses  of  his  nature,  my 
friend  rode  up  to  the  petty  tyrant  and  compelled  him  to  desist,  giving  money 
at  the  same  time  to  the  poor  victim  of  his  cruelty.  The  bystanders  laughed  at 
him  for  his  humanity,  and  assured  him  that  the  fellah  would  bargain  for  a beat- 
ing every  day  for  the  same  sum  of  money.  It  seems  that  the  poor  fellow,  who 
folded  his  hands  upon  his  breast,  and  received  the  chastisement  with  the  utmost 
submission,  had  been  sent  to  the  city  on  some  errand,  which  he  had  neglected, 
and  that  the  Frank  had  taken  the  law  into  his  own  hands  in  this  cruel  and 
summary  manner.  For  the  Arab  there  was  no  redress,  for  had  he  applied  to 
the  cadi  his  remonstrances  would  undoubtedly  have  procured  him  a bastinado 
instead  of  a hearing ; so  potent  would  have  been  the  influence  of  the  foreigner’s 
gold  over  the  conscience  of  the  judge. 

The  road  from  Boolak  to  the'  great  city  of  the  East  is  a fine  broad  way, 
lined  with  trees  upon  each  side,  and  was  filled  with  a motley  crowd,  some  on 
pleasure  and  some  on  business.  There  were  women  upon  camels  and  donkeys, 
riding  in  the  Turkish  fashion  or  astride  of  the  saddle,  dressed  in  ample  folds  of 
black  silk  and  closely  veiled,  according  to  the  universal  custom.  But  one  of 


A STREET  IN  CAIRO 


MOOLED  E’  NEBBY. 


41 


the  most  peculiar  features  of  the  scene  was  the  immense  number  of  water- 
carriers,  which  are  constantly  passing  between  the  city  and  the  port,  conveying 
their  burdens  in  skins  upon  donkeys  or  upon  their  backs,  or  as  in  the  case  of  the 
women,  upon  their  heads.  One  is  compelled  to  wonder  that  among  other  less 
useful  undertakings,  some  Mehemet  Ali  had  never  supplied  his  great  capital 
with  water. 


taitotw  in  (toil  Cairn. 

We  now  enter  the  city  by  the  gate  of  the  Uzbekeeh,  which  is  a very  exten- 
sive square  just  within  the  walls.  The  latter  are  guarded  by  sentinels  at  the 
several  gates,  but  are  in  part  so  low  that  it  is  easy  for  a man  to  climb  over  them. 
We  found  a crowd  of  people  in  the  square,  and  learning  that  it  was  the  annual 
festival  of  the  Mooled  e’  Nebby  or  the  Prophet’s  birthday,  we  made  our  way 
as  quickly  as  possible  to  the  hotel,  and  after  dinner  returned  to  observe  the 
manners  and  customs  of  the  people  in  the  celebration  of  these  annual  holidays ; 
for  the  festival  lasts  for  several  days.  The  large  square  covered  with  tents,  the 
turbaned  and  shawl-girdled  population,  the  guttural  sounds  of  the  Arabic,  the 
low  and  monotonous  music,  the  flowing  garments,  together  with  the  scream- 
ing, shouting,  and  novel  games,  all  contributed  to  heighten  the  effect  of 
this  singular  scene,  and  to  add  to  the  strong  impression  which  its  novelty 
had  made  upon  us.  Some  were  going  through  a species  of  devotion.  As 
I approached  it  seemed  as  if  I were  coming  to  a show  of  wild  beasts,  which 
were  giving  a kind  of  concert  in  a deep  growl  or  roar.  In  the  different  tents 
the  devotion  was  in  several  stages  of  progress  ; but  as  far  as  I could  discover 
this  was  the  course  of  it, — the  tents  are  erected  and  lighted  at  the  expense  of 
the  Faithful,  and  in  some  cases  by  the  priests.  Some  of  them  were  large  and 
well  covered  with  drapery,  and  lighted  by  a great  number  of  colored  lamps. 

8 


42 


FANATICISM. — ARABIC  MUSIC. 


The  ground  was  covered  by  carpets,  and  on  these  with  their  slippers  off  were 
seated  in  rows  facing  each  other  some  twenty  or  thirty,  and  in  some  cases  as 
many  as  fifty  or  sixty  of  the  devout  in  a tent.  At  their  head  were  two  or  three 
who  sang  a sort  of  chant,  to  which  the  rest  responded  in  a chorus,  consisting 
simply  of  the  word  Allah.  This  was  uttered  as  low  down  in  the  throat  as  a 
man  could  make  a noise,  and  sent  forth  each  time  with  a violent  respiration. 
The  sounds  succeeded  each  other  with  considerable  rapidity,  and  at  the  same 
time  the  worshippers  threw  their  bodies  backwards  and  forwards  with  a quick 
bending  motion.  After  a time  they  rose  to  their  feet,  when  the  grunting  and 
bowing  grew  more  rapid  and  earnest ; until  at  length  the  bending  of  the  body 
backward  and  forward  became  a perfect  jerk,  as  if  they  would  break  themselves 
in  two,  or  at  least  throw  their  heads  off.  As  they  became  more  excited  they 
would  swing  their  bodies  from  one  side  to  the  other,  and  at  last  jump  up  and 
down,  keeping  up  the  whole  time  the  same  rapid  grunting  out  of  the  word 
Allah.  After  an  hour  or  more  they  seemed  quite  exhausted  and  sank  down, 
when  pipes  and  coffee  were  handed  to  them  for  refreshment.  It  is  said 
that  they  sometimes  get  so  excited  that  they  fall  down  and  foam  at  the 
mouth.  While  contemplating  this  exhibition  of  fanaticism,  I could  not  help 
thinking  that  a Turk,  in  our  own  country  at  a camp  meeting,  or  among 
the  Shakers,  might  see  things  as  little  consistent  with  the  rational  worship  of 
the  Deity. 

From  these  tents  we  went  into  several  of  the  streets  of  the  city,  where  the 
celebration  of  the  fair  was  carried  on.  There  were  booths  on  both  sides  filled 
with^candy,  sweetmeats,  dates,  cakes,  &c. ; and  when  we  came  to  the  narrow 
streets,  the  shops  were  all  open  and  lamps  hung  about  in  abundance.  There 
were  crowds  of  people  dressed  in  varied  oriental  costume ; I said  people,  but 
there  was  not  a woman  among  them ; and  indeed  the  guide  told  us  that  if  a 
woman  was  seen  there  she  would  be  instantly  carried  off  to  prison.  Coffee- 
houses were  open,  filled  with  men,  and  in  some  of  them  we  heard  a singular 
kind  of  Arabic  music.  In  one  place  we  saw  what  I shall  venture  to  call  an 
oriental  orchestra  of  about  eight  men,  sitting  cross-legged ; one  playing  on  a 
kind  of  guitar,  another  on  a queer  little  instrument  with  two  strings,  which 


A GRAND  PANORAMIC  VIEW. 


43 


made  a sound  like  a bagpipe ; another  was  beating  a small  drum,  and  still 
another  a tambourine,  while  three  or  four  were  singing.  The  music  was  bar- 
barous enough  but  was  not  wholly  destitute  of  character,  and  the  people  were 
evidently  amused  by  it.  At  another  coffee-house  we  saw  a man  sitting  cross- 
legged  as  before  and  telling  a story,  at  which  occasionally  the  people  laughed 
quite  heartily.  After  walking  about  and  contemplating  at  leisure  these  strange 
and  interesting  sights,  we  returned  to  our  hotel  thoroughly  fatigued. 

FIRST  SUNDAY  IN  CAIRO. 

Fdb.  4dh. — It  is  Sunday  morning.  I have  been  seated  at  the  writing-table 
since  daylight,  and  just  now  breaking  off  for  a moment  and  going  to  the  win- 
dow for  a respite,  a most  glorious  prospect  revealed  itself.  It  is  an  hour  after 
sunrise.  The  first  objects  that  arrest  my  eye  are  the  pyramids  of  Ghizeh  in 
the  distance,  the  ascending  sun  shining  upon  them  so  as  to  reveal  their  shape 
most  perfectly.  Looking  again,  and  more  particularly  at  the  scene  around  me, 
I find  that  I have  from  this  spot  one  of  the  most  beautiful  panoramas  that  I ever 
beheld.  There  lies  before  me  the  grand  open  square  or  public  garden  of  Cairo, 
nearly  as  large  as  Boston  Common,  the  acacia  trees  all  in  full  green  foliage. 
It  is  bordered  on  one  side  by  a portion  of  the  city,  and  its  white-fronted  houses 
of  various  architecture  ; behind  them  the  graceful  minarets  shoot  up  among  the 
tall  palm-trees,  and  on  the  other  side  are  the  public  buildings,  with  a distant 
view  of  the  sand  hills  of  the  desert.  In  the  centre  of  the  picture,  but  at  a far 
distance,  rise  the  pyramids ; but  I feel  it  is  idle  to  attempt  a description.  I 
suppose  it  did  not  strike  us  yesterday  because  there  was  a haze  over  the  pros- 
pect, and  the  sun  had  risen  too  high  to  cast  the  shadows  favorably.  But  this 
morning  it  is  a sight  indeed  to  be  remembered.  How  I wished  for  the  talent 
of  taking  a view  from  nature  ! We  have  ascertained  that  there  is  an  English 
church  here,  and  we  anticipate  the  comfort  of  a Christian  Sunday.  And  a 
great  comfort  indeed  it  is,  when  we  are  so  far  from  Christendom  and  surrounded 
by  a false  religion  and  its  odious  superstitions. 


44 


CHURCH  SERVICE  IN  A FOREIGN  LAND. 


Evening. — We  have  just  returned  from  seeing  as  great  a contrast  in  modes 
of  religious  worship  as  can  well  be  imagined.  We  first  went  to  the  place  ap- 
propriated to  the  mission  service  of  the  Church  of  England.  This  is  situated 
in  what  is  called  the  Christian  quarter.  After  leaving  the  square,  we  passed 
through  several  streets  so  narrow  that  one  might  touch  the  houses  on  both  sides 
at  the  same  time.  Loaded  donkeys  can  go  through  them,  and  camels  without  a 
load.  When  you  encounter  a donkey  or  a camel  you  must  squeeze  yourself  to 
one  side  in  order  to  let  them  pass.  It  is  surprising  with  what  ease  this  is  done, 
when  one  gets  accustomed  to  it.  Even  the  ladies  of  our  party  got  through, 
pushing  their  way  among  crowds  of  people,  donkeys,  and  camels,  without  much 
trouble.  They  were  jostled  a little,  to  be  sure,  and  now  and  then  thrust  aside 
by  a donkey  or  its  driver,  but  they  took  it  all  very  pleasantly,  and  did  not  seem 
in  the  least  disconcerted.  Arrived  at  the  chapel,  which  was  a lofty  but  not 
very  large  room,  neatly  fitted  up  with  a reading-desk,  pulpit,  and  altar,  the 
English  service  was  read  by  one  clergyman,  and  a sermon  preached  by  Mr. 
Lieder.  Both  were  Germans,  and  are  sent  out  and  sustained  by  the  Church 
Missionary  Society.  The  sermon  was  a short  and  sensible  one  upon  repentance, 
from  the  text,  “Repentance  toward  God  and  faith  toward  our  Lord  Jesus 
Christ.”  The  Holy  Communion  was  then  administered,  and  of  the  small  con- 
gregation of  some  forty  persons  about  half  were  communicants.  All  was 
simple,  and  as  our  beautiful  service  must  ever  be  to  those  who  are  prepared  for 
it  and  who  love  it,  impressive,  and  especially  so  to  us,  far  from  home,  and  in  a 
land  like  this,  bowed  down  to  the  very  dust  by  a degrading  superstition.  The 
last  expression  came  to  my  pen,  I suppose,  in  consequence  of  what  we  saw 
after  Church. 

We  understood  that  the  festival,  which  has  lasted  some  days,  and  a part  of 
which  we  saw  last  night,  was  to  be  concluded  to-day  by  a most  remarkable 
ceremony.  The  chief  priest  of  the'  Mohammedan  religion  rides  on  horseback 
over  the  prostrate  bodies  of  great  numbers  of  the  deluded  followers  of  the 
False  Prophet.  It  takes  place  only  once  a year.  We  therefore  went,  and  on  ar- 
riving at  the  open  square,  where  the  tents  of  last  evening  were  pitched,  we  found 
it  already  thronged  with  people.  The  appearance  of  the  crowd  of  people  in 


A MOHAMMEDAN  CROWD. — A DEVOTEE. 


45 


Eastern  costume,  with  their  flowing  dresses  of  various  colors,  was  striking,  and 
as  I stood  above  them  looking  down  upon  a sea  of  turbans,  white,  red,  and 
blue,  with  an  occasional  mixture  of  the  sacred  green,  I was  struck  with  the 
same  difference  which  I have  elsewhere  noted,  between  the  aspect  of  an  Orien- 
tal and  a European  crowd.  They  seemed  to  be  good-natured  enough,  and  on 
the  whole  as  orderly  as  any  such  mixed  multitude  with  us.  They  were,  how- 
ever, somewhat  more  noisy;  for  all  seemed  to  be  talking  together  in  their 
guttural  dialect,  with  much  vociferation  and  gesticulation.  There  were  soldiers 
here  and  there,  with  a musket  in  the  left  hand  and  a stick  in  the  right,  which 
was  occasionally  used  pretty  freely,  without  any  resistance  on  the  part  of  the 
people.  The  musket  or  bayonet  seemed  to  be  never  employed,  as  with  us,  to 
press  the  people  back  to  form  a lane  for  a procession ; for  the  whip  appeared  to 
answer  all  the  purpose.  There  was  some  scolding,  but  not  a sign  of  resistance. 
Indeed,  a whip  or  stick  is  the  common  instrument  here  for  keeping  the  lower 
people  in  order.  After  some  time  we  perceived  that  the  procession  was  ap- 
proaching. It  was  coming  from  the  principal  mosque,  where  there  had  been 
some  species  of  service.  We  could  first  see  several  flags  upon  lofty  poles,  but 
as  there  was  no  wind,  and  the  flags  were  not  held  open,  we  could  not  discover 
the  device.  After  these  standard-bearers,  to  the  number  of  seven  or  eight,  had 
passed  by,  there  was  a great  commotion  among  the  people,  and  a devotee  ap- 
proached, naked  to  his  waist,  with  iron  needles  or  skewers,  six  or  eight  inches 
long,  sticking  through  the  flesh  of  his  breasts  and  arms,  the  skewers  having 
been  first  run  through  a lemon,  which  was  still  upon  the  top  of  one  of  them, 
showing  that  the  acid  juice  had  come  in  contact  with  the  wounded  flesh.  He 
marched  along  without  any  mark  of  pain,  or  even  of  discomfort  on  his  counte- 
nance. After  this  the  noise  and  confusion  increased,  and  we  perceived  that  it 
proceeded  from  the  men  lying  down  side  by  side  upon  the  ground.  There 
were  a number  of  persons  whose  duty  it  seemed  to  be  to  arrange  them,  by 
making  them  lie  close  together,  and  preventing  them  from  being  piled  one 
upon  the  other.  This  was  effected  by  a copious  application  of  the  whip,  for 
there  seemed  to  be  no  lack  of  devotees,  and  any  one  might  lie  down  who  chose. 
The  human  pavement  being  thus  formed,  I pushed  myself  through  to  the  front 


46 


A DOWN-TRODDEN  PEOPLE. 


rank  of  spectators,  so  that  I might  see  the  effect  upon  the  people  that  were 
about  to  be  trodden  upon.  They  were  all  in  a state  of  great  excitement,  crying 
out  Allah,  Allah.  First  came  five  or  six  persons  running  on  foot  over  the 
prostrate  people,  immediately  followed  by  the  priest  on  horseback,  the  horse 
being  led  by  a man  upon  each  side,  who  kept  him  upon  the  backs  of  the  people. 
The  horse  had  evidently  been  trained,  and  was  not  frightened  at  the  singular 
road  over  which  he  was  walking.  His  pace  was  quick,  and  apparently  as 
springy  and  light  as  a horse  could  walk.  Immediately  after  he  passed  the 
people  were  helped  up,  though  some  got  up  of  themselves.  All  seemed  to  be 
excited  in  the  highest  degree,  some  writhing  as  if  in  pain,  others  fainting  as  if 
from  exhaustion.  My  impression  is  that  none  of  them  were  seriously  injured; 
indeed,  I believe  that  the  horse’s  hoofs  did  not  touch  more  than  half  of  them, 
and  that  the  whole  appearance  of  suffering  was  the  effect  of  fanaticism.  It  was 
altogether  an  astonishing  exhibition  of  human  weakness  and  degrading  super- 
stition. No  doubt  they  think  to  gain  some  privilege  here  or  in  Paradise ; and 
for  this  perhaps  the  priest  was  praying,  as  he  kept  his  eyes  shut,  and  his  head 
lifted  up  towards  the  skies,  while  he  continually  beat  his  breast  with  his  hands. 


A DAY  OF  SOCIAL  GRATIFICATION. 

Feb.  5th. — The  overland  mail  arrived  from  India,  and  as  it  leaves  to-morrow, 
the  greater  part  of  the  day  was  spent  in  preparing  letters.  With  the  mail 
arrived,  to  my  surprise,  from  Canton,  Mr.  S.  G.  Goodridge.  How  wonderfully, 
even  in  this  part  of  the  world,  are  facilities  for  intercourse  increased ! One 
friend  from  New- York  meets  another  from  Canton  in  Grand  Cairo,  and  though 
pleasing  to  both,  it  is  no  great  matter  of  astonishment  to  either.  After  some 
purchases  in  the  bazaars,  I went  to  spend  the  afternoon  with  the  Rev.  Mr.  Lieder, 
the  worthy  missionary  here.  I found  him  and  Mrs.  Lieder  to  be  very  intelli- 
gent persons,  and,  as  always,  ready  to  give  us  all  the  advice  and  assistance  in 
their  power,  and  especially  to  procure  us  some  useful  books,  for  we  had  already 
visited  the  bookseller’s,  and  found  little  or  nothing  of  any  value  in  his  assort- 


TURKISH  SHOPS. — HOSPITABLE  RECEPTION. 


47 


ment  of  varieties.  Indeed,  the  shops  in  which  articles  peculiar  to  European 
life  are  to  be  found  are  very  poorly  supplied,  and  the  prices  are  very  high. 
The  traveller  should  be  supplied  with  every  thing  needful  before  coming  to 
this  land  of  oriental  dress  and  habits. 

The  Turkish  bazaars  and  the  shops  are  all  filled  with  what  a Turk  or  an 
Arab  needs  for  comfort  and  luxury.  But  when  I speak  of  a shop’s  being  filled, 
it  must  not  be  supposed  that  they  resemble  the  shops  in  Broadway.  On  the 
contrary,  they  are  very  small,  and  will  not  contain  much,  and  generally  speak- 
ing every  article  is  within  reach  of  the  Turk,  who  sits  cross-legged  in  the  midst 
of  his  goods.  The  fronts  are  all  open,  and  each  shop  about  as  large  as  a small 
shop- window  in  New- York,  and  only  five  or  six  feet  deep.  When  there  is 
sufficient  space,  there  is  sometimes  a shelf  or  ledge  in  front  for  a part  of  the 
goods.  The  owner  is  squatted  inside  upon  a small  carpet,  lazily  sipping  his 
coffee,  or  smoking  his  pipe,  and  usually  serves  you  without  deigning  to  move 
from  his  oriental  position.  He  always  demands  more  than  he  will  take,  and 
unless  you  are  resigned  to  being  cheated,  buying  must  be  bargaining.  Even 
then  you  may  not  hope  to  escape  imposition.  I dare  say  there  may  be  excep- 
tions, and  dealings  between  Turk  and  Turk  may  be  different,  but  I speak  only 
of  strangers. 

In  the  evening  we  went  to  dine  with  Mr.  Murray,  her  Britannic  Majesty’s 
Agent  and  Consul-General  for  Egypt.  We  met  a small  party  of  ten,  and 
among  them  several  ladies  and  gentlemen  who  had  been  our  fellow-passengers. 
The  dinner  was  good  and  agreeable,  and  served  in  the  European  style ; but 


“ When  now  the  rage  of  hunger  was  represt,” 

Mr.  Murray  pleasantly  observed,  that  since  we  were  in  a strange  land,  we  ought 
to  pay  some  attention  to  its  customs ; and  as  smoking  was  a very  important 
one,  that  could  not  with  propriety  be  altogether  omitted,  the  ladies  must  decide 
whether  this  oriental  rite  should  be  performed  in  their  presence  or  not.  Capt. 
Murray,  of  the  Navy,  the  brother  of  our  host,  jocosely  put  the  question  to 
vote,  and  the  ladies  decided  that  we  must  smoke  in  their  company.  Upon  this 


48 


EASTERN  FORMS  OF  SALUTATION. 


we  all  retired  to  the  drawing-room,  which  was  very  spacious,  well  furnished, 
and  surrounded  with  a divan.  An  attendant  soon  entered  with  a long  Turkish 
pipe  for  each  of  us,  the  bowls  resting  upon  the  floor,  in  a small  circular  brass 
tray,  to  protect  the  carpet  from  the  ashes.  The  mouth-pieces  of  the  pipes  were 
large  and  composed  of  amber ; and  I was  astonished  to  hear  the  prices  that  had 
been  paid  for  them.  One  was  twenty -five  pounds  and  another  fifty  pounds  ster- 
ling, or  nearly  two  hundred  and  fifty  dollars.  I afterwards  saw  several  in  the 
bazaar  which  were  valued  at  one  hundred  pounds  sterling  each.  Some  were 
even  studded  with  diamonds  and  other  precious  stones.  This  is  one  of  the 
chief  articles  of  Turkish  extravagance  and  luxury.  The  amber  of  which  they 
are  made  is  brought  from  Eussia. 

The  evening  passed  agreeably  with  music  and  conversation.  Among  other 
topics  that  of  the  Arabic  or  Egyptian  mode  of  salutation  was  introduced,  and 
Mr.  Murray  gave  us  an  account  of  what  custom  required,  and  very  curious 
indeed  it  was.  The  compliments  paid  to  each  other  by  Egyptians,  especially 
if  they  are  friends  and  have  been  long  separated,  are  quite  an  extended  cere- 
mony, and  call  into  exercise  all  the  skill  of  the  parties  in  the  use  of  language. 
In  fact  it  becomes  a kind  of  controversy,  and  one  who  can  run  through  a long 
string  of  complimentary  phrases  without  making  any  mistake  as  to  the  point  I 
am  about  to  mention,  is  deemed  an  eloquent  man ; while  he  who  fails  in  this 
respect  passes  for  a very  stupid  person,  destitute  of  refinement  and  cultivation. 
When  two  Arabs  meet  each  lays  his  hand  upon  his  forehead  and  on  the  region 
of  the  heart,  after  having  joined  the  palms  of  their  hands  together.  Then  one 
begins,  “ May  Allah  give  you  his  blessing,”  or  with  some  similar  phrase.  The 
other  replies,  “ The  blessing  of  Allah  rest  upon  you,”  and  so  on  to  a great 
extent ; the  essential  point  being  that  the  answer  shall  embrace  the  principal 
word  of  the  sentence  in  the  salutation.  Otherwise  it  is  esteemed  an  unsatisfac- 
tory reply ; the  person  making  it  has  failed,  the  other  has  gained  a victory,  and 
is  considered  the  most  eloquent  and  polished  man. 

At  my  request  Mr.  Murray  politely  furnished  me  with  the  following  state- 
ment : 

11  The  salutations  interchanged  among  the  Arabs  are  laid  down  by  certain 


SALUTATIONS  AND  REPLIES. 


49 


customary  laws  and  usages,  a departure  from  winch  enables  them  at  once  to 
detect  a stranger.  Every  particular  incident  in  social  life  has  its  appropriate 
compliment,  to  which  an  appropriate  reply  is  attached ; and  it  is  remarkable 
that  the  reply  must  include,  though  perhaps  in  an  altered  form,  the  leading  ex- 
pression of  the  original  compliment.  It  is  almost  impossible  to  render  these  salu- 
tations literally  in  English,  because  we  have  not  in  our  language  verbs  capable 
of  expressing  the  various  ideas  which  are  conveyed  in  Arabic  by  the  addition 
of  a single  letter  to  the  Arabic  root.  E.  g.  from  the  root  sdbh , morning,  we  have 
sabbaha , to  give  good  morning ; tasahaba , to  take  a morning  sleep ; asbaha , 
to  come  in  the  morning,  &c.  The  above  observations  and  the  examples  illustra- 
tive of  them,  refer  to  the  usages  current  among  the  better  educated  classes 
in  Cairo. 

SALUTATIONS. 

(S.  salutation. — R.  reply.) 

Morning.  S.  Sabah-kom  bil  kheir — Good  morning. 

R.  Allah  iesbah-kom  bil  kheir — May  God  give  you  good  morrow. 

Mid-day.  S.  Naharkom  said — May  your  day  be  happy. 

R.  Naharkom  abiad — May  your  day  be  white  (well  omened). 

Evening.  S.  Messa-kom  bil-kheir — May  your  evening  be  happy. 

R.  Allah  iemsykom  bil  kheir — May  God  give  you  good  evening. 

Occasional.  S.  Salamat — Peace  (be  with  you). 

R.  Allah  iasallemkom — May  God  give  you  peace. 

On  a visit  (after  absence).  S.  Aouhashtena — You  have  deserted  us. 

R.  Allah  la  couhash  minkom — May  God  not  desert  you. 

Do.  S.  Hallet  el  baraka — Blessing  has  come  to  dwell  with  me. 

R.  Allah  iabarek  fyk — May  God  bless  you. 

On  drinking  water.  S.  Hanian — Health  or  welfare. 

R.  Allah  io-haunyk — May  God  prosper  you. 

After  shaving  or  bathing.  S.  Naiman — Grace  or  favor  (to  you). 

R.  Naam  Allah  aleikom — God  be  gracious  to  you. 

On  visiting  a sick  person.  S.  Salamat-kom — Your  health  ! 

R.  Allah  iasallemak — May  God  give  you  health. 


7 


50 


THE  BAZAAR. — MODES  OF  ABLUTION. 


Do.  S.  La  baas  aleik — May  no  evil  befall  you. 

R.  Allah  la  ioureik  baas — May  God  show  you  no  evil 
Do.  S.  Es-shiffa — Health  or  recovery. 

R.  Allah  ieshfyk — May  God  give  you  health. 


These  instances  might  be  multiplied  by  scores,  but  the  above  are  sufficient  to 
illustrate  the  principle  on  which  they  are  constructed.” 


THE  CITADEL  AND  ITS  ENVIRONS. 

Feb.  Qth. — Rose  early  to  see  Mr.  Gr.  off  for  Alexandria,  and  rode  down  with 
him  to  Boolak,  where  I bade  him  farewell  at  the  steamboat.  The  weather 
was  quite  cold,  the  wind  blowing  so  strongly  that  a great  coat  was  essential  to 
comfort.  Indeed  for  the  last  two  days  I have  not  been  out  without  an  over- 
coat. After  breakfast  we  mounted  our  donkeys  and  went  out  to  see  several 
objects  of  interest,  and  first  to  the  Turkish  bazaar.  We  passed  through  a 
number  of  narrow  streets  lined  with  shops,  precisely  like  those  I have  described, 
and  from  these  the  bazaar  does  not  differ,  except  that  it  is  covered  with  an 
awning  and  a chain  is  thrown  across  to  prevent  the  passage  of  camels  and 
donkeys.  Some  of  the  streets  were  thronged  with  people ; women  were  out 
as  freely  as  the  men  making  their  purchases,  only  they  were  veiled  in  such  a 
manner  that  nothing  but  their  eyes  could  be  seen.  We  went  on  through  a 
large  number  of  narrow  winding  streets,  turning  many  sharp  corners,  till  we 
came  to  a mosque  that  is  not  especially  holy,  and  therefore  we  were  suffered 
to  enter  it  without  a firman  or  permit  from  the  government.  We  were  obliged, 
however,  to  put  over  our  boots  a sort  of  clumsy  slipper  of  basket-work.  The 
mosque  was  old  and  somewhat  dilapidated ; in  the  area  or  open  court  were  two 
fountains  for  the  ablutions  of  the  worshippers,  the  one  a circular  stone  basin 
with  a broad  ledge  around  it,  the  other  a round  structure  eight  or  ten  feet  high. 
In  the  circumference  of  the  last,  at  a suitable  height  for  washing  the  hands, 
there  were  small  pipes  closed  by  a plug  ; this  is  for  the  accommodation  of  such 
Mohammedans  as  use  running  water  in  their  ablutions;  for  among  other 


CITADEL,  MOSQUE,  AND  PALACE. 


51 


important  divisions,  one  sect  washes  in  still  water  while  the  other  requires  it  to 
be  in  motion.  What  a satire  on  some  Christians ! 

We  then  proceeded  to  the  citadel,  which  is  a combination  of  mosque, 
fortress,  and  palace,  upon  a rocky  elevation.  The  fortress  was  in  no  state  for 
defence  for  part  of  the  works  were  in  ruins,  but  we  understood  that  they  were 
to  be  reconstructed  with  some  alterations.  On  the  highest  point  a few  guns 
were  mounted.  But  neglected  as  it  was,  it  is  obvious  that  should  necessity 
require  it,  the  position  may  be  made  impregnable.  It  commands  a fine  view 
of  the  town,  of  the  distant  pyramids,  and  of  the  sand  hills  beyond.  On  the 
summit  was  the  grand  mosque  which  Mehemet  Ali  began  to  build  more  than 
twenty  years  ago ; it  is  the  only  structure  at  all  imposing  in  its  architecture 
that  we  have  yet  seen  in  Cairo ; it  is  large  and  lofty,  crowned  with  a noble 
dome,  with  two  tall  and  handsome  minarets  in  front.  It  is  substantially  built 
of  stone,  and  the  whole  is  to  be  cased  within  and  without  in  Egyptian  alabaster. 
This  is  indeed  very  rich  and  beautiful  in  parts,  but  it  does  not  seem  to  be  a 
good  material  for  large  works ; it  conveys  no  idea  of  solidity,  and  is  frequently 
disfigured  by  holes,  which  must  be  filled  up  with  plaster,  yet  the  structure  is  a 
magnificent  work  ; and  like  the  other  undertakings  of  Mehemet  Ali,  evinces  a 
grandeur  of  conception  which  bespeaks  him  a remarkable  man.  From  the 
mosque,  upon  which  hundreds  of  men  were  at  work,  we  went  to  the  palace  of 
the  Pasha  which  is  near  it  on  the  same  eminence.  An  inclosed  garden  of 
orange  and  other  trees  leads  to  a building  which  is  not  very  large,  but  is  fin- 
ished in  a style  of  great  comfort  and  some  elegance.  It  combines  a mixture  of 
Turkish  and  European  architecture.  The  Pasha’s  drawing  and  reception-room 
is  surrounded  on  three  sides  with  cushioned  and  damask-covered  chairs,  after 
the  European  fashion,  and  the  fourth  side,  which  opens  by  glass  windows  upon 
the  garden  for  the  whole  length,  is  occupied  by  a spacious  divan,  with  rich 
cushions  at  the  corners  and  a covering  of  cloth  of  gold.  Here  the  Pasha  was 
accustomed  to  sit  cross-legged.  The  three  sides  without  windows  were  covered 
with  large  mirrors.  The  dining-room  was  in  no  respect  peculiar,  as  the  Pasha 
dined  after  the  European  mode,  had  a French  cook,  and  notwithstanding  the 
prophet’s  prohibition,  was  somewhat  given  to  French  wines. 


52 


COURTS  OF  JUSTICE. — PRISONS. — JOSEPH’S  WELL. 


From  tlie  Pasha’s  palace  we  went  to  the  halls  of  justice  and  the  prisons. 
There  were  separate  courts  for  civil  and  criminal  proceedings,  and  the  business 
seemed  to  be  conducted  with  very  little  external  form.  The  judges  were  seated 
on  a divan  with  their  pipes  beside  them,  indulging  themselves  with  an  occa- 
sional puff.  I was  struck  with  the  fact  that  the  judges  were  all  Copts,  who 
occupied  this  position  because  they  had  once  been  chosen  as  scribes  or  clerks 
on  account  of  their  being  able  to  read  and  write,  and  thus  by  degrees  were 
advanced  to  their  present  places.  It  should  be  observed,  however,  that  all 
justice  emanates  from  the  sovereign ; and  the  Sultan  sends  to  Cairo  a grand 
cady,  who  occupies  the  place  of  supreme  judge,  naming  the  officers  directly 
below  him,  who  in  turn  appoint  their  subordinates.  All  affairs  of  magnitude 
are  determined  by  the  chief  cady ; causes  of  less  importance  are  settled  by  his 
effendis,  to  whose  decision  the  cady  adds  his  sanction,  while  all  petty  matters 
are  brought  before  the  scribes  or  clerks  such  as  I now  saw.  It  seems  singular 
that  justice  should  be  administered  to  Mohammedans  in  a Mohammedan  coun- 
try by  Christians  ; but  this  is  accounted  for  by  their  superior  education.  The 
arrangement,  as  indeed  that  of  all  our  courts  of  justice,  reminds  one  of  the  first 
record  of  their  origin  in  the  Old  Testament,  and  the  advice  which  Jethro  the 
father-in-law  of  Moses  gave  to  him  : £ Thou  shalt  provide  out  of  all  the  people 
able  men,  such  as  fear  God,  men  of  truth,  hating  covetousness ; and  place  such 
over  them,  to  be  rulers  of  thousands,  and  rulers  of  hundreds,  and  rulers  of  tens. 
And  let  them  judge  the  people  at  all  seasons  : and  it  shall  be  that  every  great 
matter  they  shall  bring  unto  thee,  but  every  small  matter  they  shall  judge.’ 
‘ Then  thou  shalt  be  able  to  endure.’  (Exodus  xviii.) 

The  prisons  were  certainly  inferior  to  our  best  regulated  penitentiaries,  but 
were  by  no  means  so  uncomfortable  and  ill-ordered  as  I should  have  expected ; 
and  indeed  I have  seen  places  in  our  own  city  which  would  not  be  much 
injured  by  a comparison  with  these  prisons  of  Cairo. 

From  the  prisons  we  went  to  Beer  Yusuf,  or  Joseph’s  Well.  At  this  name 
the  mind  naturally  reverts  to  the  patriarch ; but  the  well  is  said  to  derive  its 
appellation  from  the  renowned  Saladin,  whose  name  was  also  Joseph.  But  it 
was  only  cleared  out  by  that  famous  warrior,  as  it  evidently  belongs  to  a period 


EXHIBITION  OF  MAGIC. 


53 


of  much  higher  antiquity  than  the  twelfth  century,  and  is  not  unworthy  to  be 
associated  with  the  pyramids  and  the  other  great  works  in  Egypt.  For  it  is 
excavated  from  the  solid  rock  to  the  depth  of  two  hundred  and  seventy  feet, 
which  brings  the  bottom  of  the  well  to  a level  with  the  bed  of  the  Nile ; and  it 
is  undoubtedly  supplied  from  the  waters  of  that  river,  oozing  through  the  sand, 
which  imparts  to  them  its  saline  properties  and  gives  the  water  a brackish  taste. 
The  well  is  nearly  fifty  feet  in  circumference,  and  is  descended  by  a staircase 
cut  in  the  face  of  the  rock.  The  water  is  now  used  for  irrigating  the  gardens 
of  the  neighborhood,  and  in  cases  of  siege  would  be  the  sole  dependence  of  the 
fortress.  It  is  raised  by  two  sets  of  bullocks,  the  lower  ones  working  the 
water-wheels  at  the  depth  of  one  hundred  and  sixty  feet  below  the  surface, 
where  the  water  is  thrown  into  a reservoir,  and  the  others  raising  it  to  the  top. 
We  wen#down  to  the  reservoir  below  the  surface,  and  could  not  but  wonder  at 
the  labor  and  perseverance  which  were  required,  before  the  use  of  gunpowder 
was  known,  to  accomplish  such  a work  as  this. 


MAGIC. 


As  Egypt  has  always  been  connected  with  the  idea  of  magiciansdrom  the 
time  of  the  Pharaohs,  through  the  ages  of  her  mysterious  priesthoods,  and  down 
to  our  modern  gipsies,  one  can  hardly  visit  that  country  without  having  his 
attention  in  some  way  drawn  to  them.  We  should  have  paid  little  attention 
to  them,  however,  had  not  a party  of  the  English  at  our  hotel  sent  for  one  of 
the  most  famous  of  these  operators,  and  given  us  an  invitation  to  be  present  at 
his  performances.  At  the  appointed  hour  the  conjurer  came,  and  after  a short 
time  a brazier  with  coals  was  brought.  The  magician  wrote  several  sentences 
upon  slips  of  paper,  and  then  drew  a diagram  in  the  hand  of  a boy  whom  he 
brought  with  him.  The  diagram  contained  nine  squares,  and  in  each  was  writ- 
ten one  of  the  nine  numbers  in  such  a manner  that  the  sum,  in  whatever  direc- 
tion they  were  added,  was  fifteen.  Into  the  middle  of  this  diagram  he  poured 


54 


FORM  OF  INCANTATION. 


a little  ink,  and  made  tlie  boy  look  into  it,  while  be  himself  sat  near  the  char- 
coal, and  bending  his  body  backwards  and  forwards  went  through  a series  of 
incantations,  occasionally  dropping  one  of  the  slips  on  which  he  had  written, 
together  with  some  perfumes,  into  the  fire.  On  asking  the  boy  what  he  saw,  he 
began  by  stating  that  he  saw  a man  with  a broom  sweeping  the  ground,  and 
after  he  had  finished,  one  brought  a flag,  and  then  several  flags  were  brought, 
and  at  last  the  boy  was  called  upon  to  see  persons  whom  he  could  not  know, 
and  in  the  description  of  them  he  was  every  time  mistaken.  We  soon  came 
to  the  conclusion  that  the  whole  thing  was  a clumsy  imposture,  and  left  the 
room  before  the  juggling  exhibition  was  finished.  For  my  own  part  I should 
be  disposed  to  dismiss  this  whole  Egyptian  magic  in  the  most  summary  manner, 
especially  since  the  performances  in  a similar  line  of  some  of  our  own  enlight- 
ened citizens  have  been  infinitely  more  clever,  and  seem  to  be  atteftled  with 
more  auspicious  results  than  those  which  fell  to  the  share  of  our  conjurer  of 
Cairo.  But  this  would  be  hardly  fair  to  that  increasing  body  of  sages  who  are 
rapidly  learning  to  look  much  farther  into  futurity  than  our  Cairo  boy  could 
see  into  an  ink  spot ; and  as  every  thing  in  these  matters  depends  upon  a pre- 
vious faith,  the  modern  believers  in  the  supernatural  will  derive  more  satisfac- 
tion from  the  pages  of  Mr.  Lane,  who,  in  the  second  volume  of  his  “ Account 
of  the  Manners  and  Customs  of  the  Modern  Egyptians,”  has  entered  into  a full 
consideration  of  the  subject,  which  he  handles  with  a more  appropriate  degree 
of  reverence  than  I am  master  of.  I will  merely  add  his  translation  of  the 
magic  invocation  and  charm.  Tarshun  and  Taryooshun  are  the  names  of  two 
“ familiar  spirits,”  who,  as  the  magician  informed  Mr.  Lane,  were  good  spirits, 
though  he  told  others  that  they  were  satanic.  But  here  is  the  meaning  of  what 
he  mutters : 


« Tarshun ! Taryooshun  ! Come  down ! Come  down ! Be  present ! Whither  are  gone  the  prince  and 
his  troops  ? Where  are  El- Ahmar  the  prince  and  his  troops  ? Be  present,  ye  servants  of  these  names  !” 

« And  this  is  the  removal.  ‘ And  we  have  removed  from  thee  thy  veil ; and  thy  sight  to-day  is  pierc- 
ing.* Correct:  correct.” 


41 


MOSQUE  OF  SULTAN  HASS  AN 


* 


EL-AZHAR,  THE  SHINING  MOSQUE. 


55 


THE  PRINCIPAL  MOSQUES  OF  CAIRO. 

Feb.  7th. — We  determined  to  devote  this  day  to  visiting  some  of  the  princi- 
pal mosques,  of  which  there  are  about  four  hundred  in  Cairo,  besides  those  that 
are  in  ruins.  In  order  to  accomplish  this  purpose,  as  no  giaour  or  infidel  is 
allowed  the  freedom  of  these  holy  places,  we  were  obliged  to  be  furnished  with 
a permission  from  the  Pasha,  and  with  a soldier  to  attend  us.  We  made  up  a 
party  of  twelve  gentlemen  and  ladies,  and  by  the  kindness  of  Mr.  Murray  were 
provided  with  the  prerequisites  that  I have  mentioned.  We  were  the  more 
desirous  to  visit  the  most  celebrated  of  the  Muslim  places  of  worship,  because 
Cairo  is  distinguished  among  Eastern  cities  for  the  excellence  of  its  architecture, 
and  almost  every  variety  of  the  Saracenic  may  here  be  seen.  As  the  custom 
of  putting  the  shoes  from  the  feet  on  entering  the  sacred  precincts  prevails  in 
all  Mohammedan  countries,  we  provided  ourselves  with  those  thin  yellow 
morocco  boots,  without  soles,  which  the  Eastern  women  wear  instead  of 
stockings. 

The  general  plan  of  the  mosques  is  similar,  though  there  is  of  course  great 
difference  in  size,  costliness,  and  minor  details.  The  essential  features  in  a 
large  mosque  are  these  : imagine  an  extensive  court,  in  the  centre  of  which,  or 
in  some  convenient  situation,  is  a fountain  where  the  faithful  may  perform  the 
indispensable  ablutions.  Into  this  court  the  mosque  opens  by  archways,  and 
passing  under  these  you  enter  upon  the  floor,  which  is  usually  covered  with 
matting.  The  roof  is  supported  by  pillars,  and  from  it  depends  a large  number 
of  lamps.  At  the  side  towards  Mecca  is  the  sacred  niche,  and  in  front  of  this, 
or  not  far  from  it,  is  the  low  pulpit,  ascended  by  a few  steps,  from  which  the 
Imaum  addresses  the  people.  The  exterior  is  usually  surmounted  by  one  or 
more  domes,  the  central  being  by  far  the  largest,  and  by  minarets,  usually  four 
in  a large  mosque,  and  sometimes  as  many  as  six.  The  walls  are  usually  built 
of  stones  of  different  colors  alternately,  as  white  and  red,  or  white  and  black ; 
or  if  these  are  not  the  original  colors  of  the  materials  they  are  usually  so  painted. 


56 


BENEVOLENT  USES  OF  EL-AZHAR. 


In  these  respects  Djamee  El-Azhar,  or  the  Shining,  agrees  with  the  rest ; but  it 
surpasses  them  all  in  beauty  and  renown.  It  was  built  before  the  year  1000  of 
the  Christian  era.  It  embraces  a great  court,  surrounded  with  porticos,  and 
contains  nine  rows  of  naves,  where  more  than  twelve  hundred  lamps  are  sus- 
pended. The  roof  is  supported  by  three  hundred  and  eighty  columns  of  mar- 
ble, porphyry,  and  granite,  with  handsome  bases  and  capitals,  all  taken  from 
ancient  cathedrals  or  basilicae ; and  the  mosque  is  in  every  respect  a noble 
specimen  of  Saracenic  architecture.  But  it  is  not  merely  in  its  external  beauty 
and  the  elegance  of  its  form  and  materials  that  this  mosque  deserves  the  epi- 
thet of  Shining,  and  compels  our  admiration.  As  we  entered  we  beheld  a 
large  number,  say  fifty  or  sixty  persons,  mostly  young  men,  seated  in  a circle 
upon  the  matting,  and  by  a pillar,  upon  a raised  platform,  sat  a venerable  man 
who  paid  no  attention  to  the  crowd  that  came  and  went,  but  seemed  diligently 
employed  in  speaking  to  those  who  sat  around  him.  It  was  the  Grand  Cady 
expounding  the  law.  In  other  parts  of  the  sacred  edifice  many  persons  were 
occupied  with  their  prayers.  In  the  outer  court  children  sat  around  with  their 
teachers,  and  bending  their  bodies  with  a regular  monotonous  motion,  read  the 
Koran.  While  we  looked  at  these  children  thus  diligently  employed,  I could 
not  help  reminding  my  friend  of  the  dispute  which  at  that  very  moment  was 
going  on  in  our  Christian  city  as  to  whether  the  Bible  should  not  be  altogether 
excluded  from  schools ; whereas  here  the  Koran  is  the  only  book  out  of  which 
children  learn  to  read.  And  it  is  considered  a sufficient  reason,  and  indeed  the 
chief  one  in  favor  of  teaching  children  to  read,  that  they  may  be  able  to  study 
the  Koran.  And  in  this  all  the  sects  of  Islam  unite ; for  there  is  yet  none  among 
them  which  has  embraced  the  singular  discipline,  that  if  you  would  teach  the 
religion  contained  in  th<^  holy  books,  the  safest  way  would  be  to  seal  those 
books  up  from  the  people  until  their  sacred  meaning  shall  be  explained  by  the 
lips  of  the  mufti.  In  another  portion  of  the  building  there  was  a hospital  or 
sanctuary  for  three  hundred  blind  men,  and  still  another  part  was  divided  into 
chambers,  where  those  travellers  who  come  to  worship,  or  to  study  the  religion 
and  the  laws  of  the  Koran,  were  provided  with  a house  and  sustenance.  Stran- 
gers from  Syria,  Persia,  Arabia,  the  provinces  of  the  Ottoman  empire,  and 


' 


m 


ENTRANCE.  TO  THE'  EL  A Z Hr  A R 


AN  EXAMPLE  FOR  THE  CHURCH. 


57 


from  western  Africa — each,  nation  was  furnished  with  a compartment  of  its 
own.  This  great  mosque  is  in  fact  the  university  of  the  East,  whither  men 
from  all  quarters  and  even  from  Constantinople  resort  to  be  instructed  in  the 
divinity  and  the  jurisprudence  of  the  Koran.  For  almost  a thousand  years  it 
has  been  distinguished  by  the  presence  of  the  great  teachers  of  the  law  and  the 
learners  who  have  sat  at  their  feet.  There  are  halls  filled  with  rich  depositories 
of  manuscripts,  presided  over  by  masters  who  direct  the  studies  of  a large 
number  of  pupils  from  all  parts  of  the  Muslim  world.  It  furnishes  an  asylum 
for  the  poor  wayfarer,  and  here  the  penniless  dervish  may  peacefully  pass  the 
night  upon  the  mat  which  is  spread  for  him  upon  the  floor.  A certain  quan- 
tity of  bread  and  of  oil  for  lights  is  distributed  daily,  and  the  wants  of  the 
students  are  provided  for  every  month.  The  annual  revenue  for  these  purposes 
is  paid  in  part  by  the  government  and  partly  derived  from  the  legacies  of  the 
faithful. 

What  an  example  is  here  for  us  Christians  ! How  have  we  here  suffered 
the  followers  of  a false  religion  to  surpass  us  in  that  which  belongs  to  a true  faith ! 
Here  is  every  thing  combined  under  one  roof,  and  in  the  name  of  one  religion 
there  is  every  essential  reality  ! The  children  are  here  instructed  in  the  primi- 
tive elements  of  piety,  as  their  teachers  understand  it ; and  the  young  men  are 
inducted  by  venerable  teachers  into  all  the  mysteries  of  theology  and  juris- 
prudence. The  worshippers  here  meet  for  their  daily  prayers  ; nay,  five  times 
a day  does  the  faithful  Mussulman,  without  regard  to  circumstances,  perform 
his  devotions.  Here  the  blind  find  a sanctuary  and  the  poor  man  an  asylum. 
The  wayfaring  man  and  the  stranger  who  speaks  another  language  is  here  fed, 
lodged,  and  cared  for ! 

Such  should  be  the  Christian  Church ; and  for  these  purposes,  these  very 
purposes,  she  should  gird  on  her  armor  and  go  forth  into  the  world.  It  is  hers 
to  teach  the  child,  to  confirm  the  young  man,  to  open  the  courts  of  the  house 
of  prayer,  to  provide  a sanctuary  for  the  sufferer,  a refuge  for  the  poor  and 
weary,  a home  for  the  traveller,  and  a hospital  for  the  sick ! How  has  she 
fulfilled  these  duties  ? Let  her  answer,  and  beware  lest  she  stand  condemned 
in  the  presence  of  the  Mosque  el-Azhar,  the  Shining , of  Grand  Cairo.  “A  city 


8 


58 


HASSANIN  THE  HOLY. — RAIN  IN  EGYPT. 


which  is  set  on  an  hill  cannot  be  hid ; and  a candle  is  put  upon  a candlestick 
that  it  may  give  light  to  all  that  are  in  the  house.”  Alas ! there  is  reason  to 
fear  lest  these  Mohammedans,  like  the  queen  of  the  south,  and  the  men  of 
Nineveh,  “ shall  rise  up  in  the  judgment  with  the  men  of  this  generation,  and 
condemn  them,”  for  even  now  they  come  from  the  utmost  parts  of  the  earth  to 
hear  the  wisdom  of  the  teachers  in  el-Azhar ! 

We  visited  several  other  mosques,  and  among  them  one  which  is  small,  but 
widely  celebrated,  and  esteemed  very  holy  in  Cairo,  because  it  contains  the 
relics  of  the  two  sons  of  Ali,  el-Hassan,  and  el-Hossayn,  and  is  hence  called 
Hassanin.  It  is  said  that  the  head  of  one  of  these  grandsons  of  the  prophet, 
and  the  hand  of  the  other,  are  preserved  here.  There  was  a multitude  of  wor- 
shippers, men  and  women,  in  this  mosque;  most  of  whom  were  civil,  though 
some  scowled  as  we  passed  by ; but  when  we  expressed  a wish  to  view  the 
shrine  containing  the  relics,  it  was  strongly  opposed  by  the  guardian  of  the 
sacred  treasures,  who  was  not  willing  that  an  infidel  should  see  them.  But  our 
soldier  insisting  upon  the  virtues  of  our  viceregal  permission,  a tumult  began  to 
rise,  with  loud  words  and  angry  gesticulations  among  the  crowd,  when  I in- 
timated to  our  party  that  it  would  be  more  prudent  to  desist,  and  that  we  ought 
not  to  offend  their  religious  prejudices,  for  the  mere  gratification  of  our  curios- 
ity, especially  in  a matter  of  so  little  importance  to  us.  The  whole  body  of 
Frank  infidels  then  retired,  much  to  the  gratification  of  the  keeper  of  the  sacred 
bones,  and  the  satisfaction  of  the  surrounding  faithful. 

Feb.  8th. — The  weather  for  several  days  has  been  quite  uncomfortable,  cold 
and  with  high  winds.  I was  much  surprised  this  morning  by  something  which 
I had  never  expected  to  see  in  Egypt.  Rising  quite  early  and  sitting  at  a table 
writing,  I heard  a peculiar  sound,  and  said  to  myself,  if  I were  at  home  or  in 
any  part  of  Europe,  I should  say  it  was  raining ; but  that  cannot  be,  as,  accor- 
ding to  all  the  accounts  which  we  have  had  of  the  climate,  it  never  rains  in 
Cairo.  The  noise  continuing,  I had  the  curiosity  to  look  up,  and  to  my  great 
surprise  found  that  there  was  really  quite  a violent  gust  of  rain  beating  against 
the  glass.  It  continued  for  some  time,  and  during  the  whole  morning  we  have  had 
occasional  rain,  and  what  is  singular,  wherever  the  drops  fall,  upon  the  clothes, 


WINTER  WEATHER  IN  CAIRO. 


59 


or  on  the  boots,  they  leave  a whitish  spot,  showing  that  the  atmosphere  is  filled 
with  an  almost  impalpable  sand.  This  is  borne  by  the  strong  wind  from  the 
desert.  It  gets  in  at  all  the  crevices  of  the  windows  and  doors,  and  covers 
every  thing  in  the  room  with  a very  fine  dust  that  is  gritty  to  the  feeling.  It 
is  said  also  that  it  will  penetrate  the  cases  of  a watch,  and  injure  the  works  by 
attrition.  I have  felt  it,  for  a day  or  two  past,  in  my  eyes,  and  cannot  but 
think  that  the  very  frequent  cases  of  opthalmia  which  we  observe  among  the 
inhabitants  may  proceed  from  this  cause.  As  to  weather,  the  whole  day  has 
been  one  of  the  most  uncomfortable  that  I ever  experienced ; very  windy,  cold, 
and  with  occasional,  though  not  heavy  rain,  except  at  the  time  of  which  I have 
spoken.  From  my  experience  thus  far,  I am  not  sure  that  the  climates  of  the 
countries  which.  I have  visited  are  much  superior  to  our  own ; though  I might 
hesitate  as  to  Italy.  Certainly  I have  not  been  able  to  escape  from  winter, 
even  in  Africa.  To  be  sure  there  is  neither  snow  nor  ice,  but  the  effect  of  the 
wind  and  cold  is  nearly  as  great  as  if  there  were.  Besides,  there  is  no  pro- 
vision made  against  cold  in  the  houses,  and  little  more  in  the  dress  of  the 
inhabitants.  Those  of  the  poorer  sort  must  suffer  much  at  such  seasons,  with 
their  bare  legs  and  feet  and  their  cotton  dresses.  But,  as  regards  the  bad 
weather  which  has  prevailed  since  our  arrival,  several  persons  who  have  long 
resided  here  represent  this  as  the  worst  winter  that  they  have  ever  known. 


DR.  ABBOTT’S  MUSEUM. 

At  10  o’clock  we  went  by  appointment  to  visit  the  museum  of  Dr.  Abbott, 
who  has  lived  here  a number  of  years  as  a medical  practitioner..  At  first  he 
was  obliged  to  assume  the  Turkish  costume,  which  he  still  continues.  He  has 
been  for  a long  time  collecting  Egyptian  antiquities,  and  has  certainly  a very 
curious  and  valuable  cabinet.  Some  objects  in  his  collection  are  very  ancient 
and  even  unique.  The  house  in  which  he  resides  is,  in  itself,  a curiosity,  and 
as  it  was  formerly  inhabited  by  Mehemet  Ali,  a description  of  it  may  not  be 
without  interest,  and  will  also  serve  to  show  the  general  character  of  an  Egyp- 


60 


dr.  abbott’s  house. 


tian  house.  You  enter  by  an  arched  gateway,  an  old  turbaned  Egyptian  porter 
haying  risen  from  a kind  of  bench  or  divan,  behind  the  door  and  under  the 
archway,  where  he  was  sitting  crosslegged,  smoking,  and  where  he  sleeps  at 
night,  and  probably  sometimes  during  the  day.  You  are  now  in  a spacious 
court-yard,  which  is  at  present  neglected  and  filled  with  piles  of  rubbish,  but 
which  was  probably  a garden  when  the  Pasha  resided  here.  Crossing  this,  you 
pass  under  another  arched  way,  and  ascend  a flight  of  stone  steps,  leading  to  a 
large,  square,  covered  terrace,  the  covering  or  roof  being  lifted  up,  towards  the 
north,  like  the  lid  of  an  immense  chest  half  raised  up.  This  is  for  the  purpose 
of  admitting  the  northern  winds  in  the  summer,  at  the  same  time  shading  the 
terrace  from  the  sun.  Three  sides  of  this  terrace  are  bounded  by  the  walls  of 
the  house ; the  fourth,  which  looks  into  a court  or  garden,  is  filled  with  long 
wide  openings.  The  place  of  windows  and  blinds  is  occupied  by  a very  hand- 
some wooden  fret- work,  which  effectually  excludes  the  gaze  of  outside  observers, 
while  the  inmates  are  enabled  to  see  into  the  street  or  garden  perfectly  well. 
This  kind  of  work  is  universal  in  Cairo,  and  is  used  for  the  projecting  balconies 
with  which  every  house  is  furnished ; and  the  women  can  here  unseen  indulge 
their  curiosity.  This  terrace  was  intended  for  the  women  of  the  harem  to  walk 
in.  By  side  doors  you  are  admitted  from  it  into  spacious  rooms.  Here  there 
are  large  and  deep  recesses,  in  which  the  floor  is  raised  a foot  or  a foot  and  a 
half  above  the  general  level.  These  recesses  would  hold  two  or  three  of  our 
ordinary  mattresses,  and  were  used  as  sleeping-places.  There  is  a large  window 
in  each,  filling  up  the  whole  of  one  side ; the  upper  half  consisting  of  stained 
glass,  and  the  lower  of  the  open  wooden  fret- work  of  which  I have  spoken. 
Another  and  a much  larger  room,  in  addition  to  these  recesses,  had  an  open 
cupola  or  dome,  furnished  all  around  with  blinds,  to  admit  the  air.  To  day  it 
was  cold  enough,  the  wind  blowing  through  in  all  directions,  and  there  appeared 
to  be  no  arrangement  for  keeping  it  out.  In  this  room,  around  the  walls,  in  the 
recesses,  and  in  glass  cases  in  the  centre,  was  arranged  Dr.  Abbott’s  most  valua- 
ble collection,  containing  some  of  the  oldest  specimens  of  man’s  handiwork  in 
the  known  world.  Though  a particular  description  of  these  would  fail  to 
interest  the  general  reader,  yet  some  of  them  are  connected  with  facts  so 


INTERIOR  OF  A HOUSE 


OBJECTS  OF  HIGH  ANTIQUITY. 


61 


remarkable,  that  I cannot  suffer  myself  to  pass  over  them  in  entire  silence. 
My  description  is  derived  from  Dr.  Abbott’s  catalogue.  There  are  thirteen 
Chinese  bottles  of  the  usual  form,  and  with  inscriptions  in  the  Chinese  charac- 
ter, and  three  bottles  of  different  shape  found  in  Egyptian  tombs,  some  in 
Upper  Egypt,  but  the  larger  part  in  Sakkara.  “Bottles  exactly* similar  may 
be  purchased  in  the  perfume  bazaar  of  Cairo.”  Here  two  interesting  facts  are 
revealed  to  us.  One  is,  that  there  was  very  early  intercourse  between  Egypt 
and  China,  and  the  other  shows  us  how  little  change  has  taken  place,  during  so 
many  thousand  years,  in  the  shape  of  some  of  the  common  utensils  employed 
in  the  every-day  life  of  the  Egyptians.  There  are  two  ear-rings  and  a necklace 
of  gold,  of  beautiful  workmanship  and  of  the  greatest  antiquity ; for  they  have 
the  name  of  Menes,  the  first  king  of  Egypt,  stamped  upon  them,  and  probably 
belonged  to  that  monarch,  who  lived  1300  years  before  Solomon.  But  the 
most  recent  acquisition  of  Dr.  Abbott  is  a ring  bearing  the  name  of  Shoofoo, 
which  probably  corresponds  to  the  Cheops  of  the  Greeks.  The  ring  is  of  very 
fine  gold,  and  weighs  three  sovereigns.  It  is  said  to  have  been  found  in  the 
great  pyramid  of  Ghizeh,  which  would  give  it  an  additional  interest,  as  the 
monarch  whose  name  it  bears  was  the  builder  of  that  pyramid.  The  hiero- 
glyphics upon  the  ring  are  the  same  as  those  which  are  found  in  the  pyramid. 

There  were  two  mummied  bulls,  which  are  extremely  rare ; one  of  which 
has  a very  large  head  and  horns,  and  appears  with  all  its  antique  swathing- 
bands  about  it.  These,  probably,  are  the  remains  of  some  of  the  ancient  gods 
of  Egypt.  My  attention  was  drawn  to  an  exquisite  bronze  group  of  two  fighting 
lizards,  which  in  action,  attitude,  and  lifelike  resemblance  surpassed  every  piece 
of  sculpture  of  the  kind  that  I remember  to  have  seen.  They  are  said  to  have 
been  found  at  Thebes,  and  are  supposed  to  be  of  ancient  Chinese  workmanship. 
These,  with  six  or  seven  hundred  objects  of  great  interest,  some  very  curious 
and  rare,  form  a collection  of  Egyptian  antiquities  which  is  probably  unsur- 
passed. There  are  several  mummies  with  their  cases  in  the  highest  state  of 
preservation.  All  these  are  shown  with  the  greatest  kindness  and  liberality  to 
strangers,  and  as  this  unique  museum  is  to  be  disposed  of,  I could  not  help 
thinking  it  might  furnish  a rare  occasion  for  the  transfer  to  our  own  country 


62 


AN  EGYPTIAN  CHARTER  PARTY. 


of  some  of  those  objects  of  antiquity  and  art,  of  which  at  present  we  are  com- 
paratively destitute. 


ARRANGEMENTS  FOR  OUR  VOYAGE  ON  THE  NILE. 

Feb.  9 th. — The  weather  continues  cold  and  windy.  The  thermometer  this 
morning  in  the  open  air  was  down  to  38°  of  Fahrenheit  before  sunrise.  This 
is  a lower  temperature  than  I had  anticipated  in  Egypt,  and  probably  is 
nearly  the  extreme  ; for  a few  degrees  below  this  would  destroy  many  of  the 
fruit  trees. 

We  learned  to-day  that  the  application  which  we  had  made  to  the  govern- 
ment for  a steamboat  for  the  upper  Nile  cannot  be  granted,  and  therefore  made 
inquiries  for  a barge.  We  were  fortunate  in  getting  one  which  has  a very  good 
reputation  for  speed  and  comfort ; two  English  gentlemen  who  have  just 
returned  in  her  give  her  this  character,  and  also  speak  very  well  of  the  Rais 
and  the  crew.  The  whole  day  was  spent  in  making  the  contract,  and  in  order- 
ing provisions  and  other  things  necessary  for  the  voyage.  As  we  cannot 
expect  to  accomplish  it  in  less  than  forty  days  this  was  no  light  undertaking. 
To  make  a contract  with  the  owner  of  one  of  these  boats  is  quite  a formidable 
process ; we  had  to  go  with  him  before  the  American  consul  who  acted  as 
interpreter ; a Turkish  scribe  was  also  present  who  wrote  out  the  contract  in 
Arabic.  Every  detail  of  duty  on  the  part  of  the  Rais  was  carefully  noted  down, 
and  the  settling  of  these  was  a fruitful  source  of  controversy  throughout ; each 
party  striving  to  make  the  arrangement  as  favorable  to  themselves  as  possible. 
But  this  is  the  only  way  to  deal  with  these  people,  they  must  be  strictly  bound  in 
every  particular ; for  if  there  be  a loophole  for  escape  they  are  sure  to  see  and 
take  advantage  of  it.  Then  the  time  lost  in  making  a bargain  or  a contract  seems 
to  be  of  no  importance  to  them,  and  so  far  from  being  in  a hurry  they  seem 
disposed  to  put  every  thing  off  as  long  as  they  can.  We  were  told  that  when 
they  go  to  an  importing  merchant  to  buy  goods  the  process  is  often  one  of  two 
or  three  hours,  and  the  business  is  seldom  finished  before  coffee  is  drunk,  and 


A TURKISH  BATH. 


63 


two  or  three  pipes  smoked  over  it.  While  Mr.  Minturn  was  occupied  about 
the  contract  and  the  provisions,  I went  to  Dr.  Abbott’s,  Mr.  Lieder’s,  and  Mr. 
Shepherd’s  to  secure  books  for  our  reading,  and  have  succeeded  in  getting  a 
very  good  selection  for  the  voyage. 

After  the  labors  of  the  day  we  took  a Turkish  bath.  We  entered  a large 
hollow  square,  lighted  from  above,  and  surrounded  by  a raised  platform,  on 
which  were  mattresses  for  the  bathers  to  lie  down  upon  after  coming  out  of  the 
bath.  A number  of  Egyptians  were  here,  some  dressed  and  some  reclining, 
wrapped  up  in  towels  and  drinking  coffee  or  smoking.  A door  led  into  an 
inner  apartment,  smaller  and  of  a better  description.  At  the  entrance  I was 
met  by  a dark-colored  man,  with  no  covering  except  a cloth  reaching  from  the 
waist  to  the  ancles ; he  pointed  out  my  place  and  assisted  me  to  get  ready. 
The  whole  was  managed  very  dexterously  by  contriving  to  cover  me  with 
towels  as  fast  as  I took  off  my  clothes,  I was  then  led  into  an  inner  room  which 
was  filled  with  steam  and  was  quite  warm.  In  the  centre  was  a fountain  of  warm 
water,  around  which  were  a number  of  persons  who  were  submitting  to  the 
operation  of  being  bathed.  On  one  side  was  a recess  with  a large  square  bath 
into  which  a stream  of  warm  water  was  constantly  running.  This  was  a sort 
of  better  department ; for  although  all  who  enter  bathe  in  one  common  room, 
and  are  plentifully  supplied  with  warm  water,  yet  very  different  prices  are 
paid.  Some  have  nothing  but  the  water  and  steam,  furnishing  their  own 
towels,  while  others  are  supplied  not  only  with  towels  and  soap,  but  attendants 
to  rub  and  shampoo  them,  and  even  to  cut  their  finger  and  toe  nails  if  desired, 
and  others  to  hand  them  pipes  and  coffee.  We  of  course  took  all  the  luxuries  of 
the  place,  which  however  were  not  very  extravagant,  the  whole  costing  only 
about  sixty  cents.  My  attendant  was  very  careful  of  me,  holding  me  fast  as  I 
walked  over  the  wet  marble  floors  lest  I should  slip  ; leading  me  into  the  recess 
before  mentioned,  he  first  scrubbed  me  all  over  with  a coarse  hand-glove, 
dipping  it  constantly  in  hot  water ; with  a large  bowl  full  of  soap  lather  he 
then  washed  me  all  over  thoroughly,  throwing  the  warm  water  over  me  most 
copiously.  He  then  motioned  to  me,  for  every  thing  was  done  by  signs,  to 
take  off  the  napkin  which  was  round  me  and  get  into  the  bath,  for  the  warmth 


64 


GARDEN  AND  PALACE  OF  SHOOBRA. 


of  which  I was  now  prepared.  He  now  left  me  for  a short  time,  and  returning* 
with  fresh  towels  of  a large  size  covered  me  all  over  with  them,  and  then  led 
me  into  the  room  where  I had  undressed ; here  I found  a mattress  prepared, 
covered  with  a sheet,  on  which  I lay  down,  my  head  being  supported  by  a light 
pillow.  A cup  of  coffee  was  brought,  and  another  man  came  and  proceeded  to 
shampoo  me ; he  began  by  squeezing  gently  all  the  muscles  of  the  body  and 
legs,  he  then  took  each  hand,  cracked  the  joints,  got  behind  me  and  twisted  my 
body  with  main  force  in  such  a way  as  seemed  to  me  to  crack  every  bone  in  my 
back — this  was  a pretty  severe  process.  Last  of  all  he  began  to  rub  the  soles 
of  my  feet  with  his  hands  and  with  something  like  a pumice-stone,  and  then 
drying  the  toes  thoroughly  all  was  over,  and  I had  been  effectually  and  expen- 
sively bathed ! But  during  the  process  we  had  nargillys  or  pipes  with  long 
flexible  tubes  handed  to  us,  and  could  smoke  at  our  pleasure.  After  reposing 
a while  and  getting  gradually  cool,  we  left  the  bath  exceedingly  refreshed. 

Feb.  10th. — The  first  part  of  the  morning  was  spent  in  completing  our  pre- 
parations ; for  as  our  absence  would  be  one  of  some  weeks,  and  we  were 
obliged  to  take  with  us  every  article  that  we  should  require,  this  business 
demanded  great  caution  and  attention.  We  then  went  out  to  the  Shoobra  gar- 
den, as  it  is  called,  one  of  the  country  residences  of  Mehemet  Ali,  where  he  is 
at  present  very  infirm  and  in  his  second  childhood.  This  palace  is  about  four 
miles  distant  from  Cairo ; the  road  to  it  is  broad  and  level,  bordered  on  both 
sides  by  trees,  chiefly  sycamores  with  some  acacias,  which  meet  overhead  and 
form  a complete  arbor  for  the  whole  distance.  They  were  planted  about 
twenty -five  or  thirty  years  ago,  and  must  have  grown  rapidly  to  produce  that 
fine  shade  so  refreshing  in  the  heat  of  summer.  The  garden  is  extensive,  laid 
out  in  squares,  and  filled  with  orange  and  lemon  trees.  Portions  of  the  walks 
are  paved  with  small  black  and  white  pebbles,  arranged  in  figures,  so  as  to 
produce  a sort  of  mosaic  work.  In  the  garden  is  an  extensive  summer-house, 
built  in  a hollow  square,  the  interior  of  which  is  a reservoir  with  a fountain  in 
the  centre,  which  however  was  not  at  play,  as  the  reservoir  was  empty.  The 
effect  must  be  very  fine  when  the  whole  is  in  operation  during  the  summer 
months.  Around  the  garden  is  a wide  covered  walk  paved  with  marble  and 


SERVANTS  OF  THE  PASHA. 


65 


opening  upon  the  garden,  except  at  the  four  corners,  where  there  are  as  many 
rooms.  One  of  these  is  a billiard-room,  two  others  are  furnished  simply  with 
divans  as  sitting  and  smoking  rooms,  but  the  fourth  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful 
I have  ever  seen.  The  sides  and  the  floor  are  of  wood  inlaid  in  the  most  taste- 
ful manner,  like  the  finest  French  cabinet  work,  and  highly  polished.  In  the 
centre  was  a very  large  chandelier  with  the  drops  of  colored  glass  to  imitate 
emeralds  and  rubies,  while  in  different  parts  of  the  room  were  rich  damask- 
covered  chairs  and  sofas,  and  several  marble-covered  centre-tables.  The  style 
was  altogether  French,  very  rich  and  very  perfectly  carried  out.  But  the 
attendants  presented  a singular  contrast ; servants  in  rich  liveries  would  have 
been  quite  in  keeping,  but  we  were  shown  through  the  grounds  by  several  old 
bare-legged  Egyptians  in  their  ordinary  shabby  dress  hanging  about  them, 
partly  in  rags,  and  with  dirty  slippers  upon  their  feet.  We  saw  also  another 
summer-house  with  an  alabaster  floor,  but  there  was  nothing  else  in  it  particu- 
larly worthy  of  observation.  The  interior  of  the  palace  itself  we  did  not  see 
as  the  Pasha  was  there  at  the  time  and  unwell.  After  walking  about  the  gar- 
dens and  eating  a fine  orange  or  two  which  we  were  perrfritted  to  pluck  for 
ourselves,  we  had  a pleasant  ride  home.  On  our  way  we  fell  in  with  two 
Italians  coming  from  the  barrage  on  the  river,  in  which  work  they  are  engaged. 
One  of  them  had  been  here  twenty -five  years  ; he  spoke  in  the  highest  terms 
of  Mehemet  Ali’s  intelligence  and  liberality,  and  feared  lest  his  successor  might 
be  inferior  to  him  in  these  respects. 


EMBARKATION  ON  THE  NILE. 

Feb.  1 1th. — Sexagesima  Sunday.  We  attended  Divine  service  at  the  Mis- 
sionary chapel,  and  heard  Mr.  Lieder  preach.  Having  determined  to  go  on 
board  our  boat  that  nightj  we  visited  it  to  see  that  all  things  were  in  readiness. 
We  did  not,  however,  go  on  board  until  late  in  the  evening.  As  we  were  to 
pass  through  one  of  the  gates  of  the  city  it  was  necessary  that  some  person  in 
the  party  should  have  the  watchword  for  the  night,  no  one  without  it  being 


9 


66 


OUR  NILE  BOAT. 


permitted  to  go  through,  the  gates  after  eight  o’clock.  For  the  accommodation 
of  strangers  this  word  is  always  sent  to  the  foreign  consuls  and  to  the  principal 
person  in  each  of  the  hotels.  In  this  case  it  was  privately  given  by  him  to  me 
for  the  whole  party.  Upon  approaching  the  gate  we  were  stopped  by  the 
sentry  at  some  distance,  and  being  ordered  in  Arabic  to  draw  near  and  give  the 
word,  which  order  was  translated  to  me  by  our  dragoman,  I went  up  and 
whispered  Djedda.  The  gates  were  opened  by  this  sesame,  and  we  were  suffered 
to  pass  through  with  our  attendants  and  luggage.  The  rais  had  been  on  board 
with  all  his  crew  ready  to  start  that  evening,  but  we  were  so  late  that  some  of 
them  had  gone  to  their  homes  in  the  port  of  Boolak,  where  our  boat  lay.  We 
should,  however,  have  made  little  headway,  as  the  wind  was  against  us,  and 
therefore  took  to  our  berths  for  the  night. 

Our  vessel  is  one  of  the  common  Arab  boats  of  the  Nile,  such  as  are  used  for 
passengers ; it  is  about  twenty -five  or  thirty  tons  burden,  sixty  feet  long  and 
twelve  broad  ; it  is  flat-bottomed,  or  rather  the  sides  are  rounded  with  a broad 
floor  but  little  keel ; it  is  quite  shallow  in  the  hold,  being  scarcely  more  than 
four  feet  deep.  This  light  draught  is  adapted  to  the  numerous  shoals  in  the 
river,  and  the  necessity  for  towing  on  the  banks  when  the  wind  is  ahead.  The 
boat  is  covered  by  a deck,  and  there  is  an  after-cabin  high  enough  to  stand  up 
in  with  entire  comfort.  The  plan  is  very  convenient  and  gives  us  all  the 
accommodation  we  require,  each  having  a separate  apartment.  She  is  rigged 
with  two  masts,  one  amidships,  and  the  other  quite  in  the  bow,  raking  forward. 
The  sails  are  latteen,  with  very  long  yards.  Our  crew  consists  of  the  rais, 
twelve  men  and  a cook ; these  with  our  dragoman  constituting  our  complement. 
As  this  boat  is  to  be  our  home  for  thirty  or  forty  days,  we  look  at  its  arrange- 
ments with  a good  deal  of  interest. 


ANOTHER  DAY  IN  CAIRO. 

Feb.  12th. — The  wind  is  strong  this  morning,  and  our  boat  being  on  the  lee 
shore  we  should  gain  nothing  by  starting.  We  therefore  decide  to  hire  don- 


.f 


TOMBS  OF  THE  MEMLOOK  SULTANS 


EL  KAlDBAI. 


67 


keys  and  go  to  Cairo,  to  see  some  objects  of  interest  which  we  have  not  yet 
visited.  After  riding  from  Boolak  to  Cairo,  and  then  through  a number  of  the 
narrow  and  intricate  streets  of  the  city,  lined  with  the  small  open  shops  of 
tradesmen  and  mechanics,  and  filled  with  people,  camels,  and  donkeys,  we  go 
out  of  the  gate  called  Bab  e Nusr,  or  the  Gate  of  Victory.  Here  we  came  out  at 
once  to  the  edge  of  the  desert,  or  rather  to  the  hills  which  protect  Cairo  from 
the  inroads  of  the  desert.  All  is  naked  and  barren,  not  a tree  nor  a particle  of 
green  to  be  seen.  After  riding  for  a mile  or  so  over  sand-hills  we  are  in  sight 
of  the  Tombs  of  the  Caliphs,  as  they  are  called,  but  more  properly  of  the  Mem- 
look  Kings  of  the  Circassian  race.  They  are  usually  called  by  the  inhabitants 
of  Cairo,  El  Kaidbai,  the  name  of  the  principal  building,  which  is  the  tomb 
of  the  nineteenth  king  of  that  dynasty,  and  who  was  buried  here  in  1496. 
There  is  a large  number  of  these  tombs,  which  consist  of  a building  with  a 
mosque  attached.  The  domes  and  minarets  are  many  of  them  exceedingly 
beautiful  in  design,  the  domes  being  covered  with  a raised  fretwork  of  different 
arabesque  patterns,  and  the  minarets  being  lofty  and  graceful.  They  are  all 
of  a light-colored  stone,  sometimes  laid  in  courses  with  black  and  sometimes 
red ; the  black  being  brought  from  the  eastern  desert,  but  the  red  is  only 
painted.  No  one  can  see  these  beautiful  structures  without  regretting  that  they 
are  permitted  to  go  to  decay ; but  they  are  not  merely  neglected,  for  in  some 
instances  the  recent  rulers  of  this  unhappy  land  have  taken  the  materials  for 
the  erection  of  modern,  buildings.  The  mosques  are  shut,  and  the  edifices  con- 
nected with  them  are  in  some  instances  occupied  by  a few  poor  and  ragged 
people.  The  vacant  space  between  and  around  these  structures  has  been  con- 
verted into  a burial-ground  for  the  modern  inhabitants  of  Cairo.  We  have  seen 
a number  of  these  cemeteries  in  and  about  the  city,  but  this  is  by  far  the  most 
extensive.  In  no  instance  have  we  found  a whole  graveyard  inclosed,  though 
occasionally  a small  portion  is  walled  in,  with  a building  attached  like  a 
family  tomb  for  some  of  the  wealthier  people.  We  rode  more  than  a mile 
through  these  noble  but  deserted  mausoleums  of  the  Memlook  Kings  and  the 
graveyards  around  them,  entering  Cairo  again  near  the  citadel.  Passing  this, 
we  took  our  course  south  to  see  some  mosques  and  tombs  in  that  direction. 


68 


ISLAND  OF  RHODA. 


These  are  by  no  means  so  extensive  or  beautiful  as  the  former.  One  of 
them,  however,  is  still  used  for  worship ; we  attempted  to  enter  it,  but  were 
refused  in  a very  decided  way  by  one  of  the  attendant  imaums,  as  we  supposed. 
Mehemet  Ali  has  here  erected  a burial-place  for  himself  and  his  family.  It  is  a 
substantial  stone  building  with  a dome,  and  in  its  general  features  resembles  the 
other  tombs ; but  it  is  smaller,  and  by  no  means  so  elaborate  in  its  architectural 
ornaments.  Within  are  monuments  erected  over  one  of  his  wives,  several  of 
his  children,  and  some  other  members  of  his  family.  Their  shape  is  oblong, 
with  square  corners,  a smaller  block  set  upon  a larger  one,  with  a column  at 
each  end  surmounted  by  a turban  in  the  tombs  of  the  males.  These  structures 
are  painted  in  blue,  red,  and  green,  with  gilding  intermixed.  The  floors  are 
all  covered  with  handsome  Turkish  carpets. 

From  these  tombs  we  took  our  course  towards  the  island  of  Rhoda,  passing 
by  an  aqueduct  raised  upon  arches,  which  carries  the  waters  of  the  Nile,  elevated 
by  a steam-engine,  from  the  river  to  the  citadel.  The  island  of  Rhoda  is  a short 
distance  above  Cairo,  and  tradition  points  it  out  as  the  place  where  Moses  was 
found  by  Pharaoh’s  daughter.  It  belongs  to  the  family  of  Ibrahim  Pasha,  and 
has  upon  it  several  palaces  occupied  by  members  of  his  household  and  by  some 
officers  in  his  service.  There  is  upon  it  an  extensive  garden,  which  is  a favorite 
place  of  resort  to  the  inhabitants  of  Cairo  in  the  summer  season.  Upon  the 
end  of  this  island  stands  the  Mekeas  or  Nilometer,  a column  with  a graduated 

V 

scale  which  marks  the  height  of  the  Nile  as  it  rises.  Proclamation  of  the  height 
of  the  river  is  made  every  day  publicly  in  the  streets  of  Cairo,  until  it  attains 
the  point  when  the  dams  are  thrown  open  to  permit  the  water  to  fill  all  the 
canals  and  to  cover  the  land.  We  did  not  see  this  structure,  however,  as  a 
powder  magazine  is  now  connected  with  it,  and  an  express  permit  is  required. 
But  the  loss  was  not  very  great,  as  the  edifice  is  said  to  be  much  injured,  and  at 
best  there  is  nothing  to  be  seen  but  a marked  column  in  a well. 

We  returned  to  the  city  and  went  to  a mosque  now  in  a neglected  state  and 
partly  in  ruins,  but  said  to  be  the  oldest  in  Cairo,  having  been  built  A.  d.  879. 
It  is  extremely  interesting  on  account  of  its  architecture  and  age,  having  been 
founded  ninety  years  before  any  other  part  of  the  city.  It  is  called  the  Djamee- 


f 

4.. 


t 


MOSQUE  OF  TAYLOON. 


69 


t-e-Tayloon,  from  its  founder  Ahmed  eben  e Tayloon.  Its  plan  is  said  to  be 
the  same  with  that  of  the  Caaba  at  Mecca.  If  we  felt  surprise  to  see  the  tombs 
of  the  Memlook  kings  permitted  to  go  to  decay,  we  were  much  more  astonished 
at  the  apathy  and  barbarism  of  a government  that  could  suffer  so  splendid  a 
monument  of  the  piety  and  taste  of  antiquity  to  fall  into  ruin,  and  that  too  in 
the  very  heart  of  the  city,  when  a small  expenditure  would  have  been  sufficient 
to  keep  it  in  repair.  As  it  seemed  to  us,  Mehemet  Ali  would  have  done  well 
to  have  reserved  a portion  of  the  immense  sum  which  he  is  lavishing  upon  the 
great  mosque  in  the  citadel  for  the  restoration  of  this  magnificent  structure. 
We  had  been  quite  anxious  to  see  this  edifice  on  account  of  the  observation  of 
Sir  Gr.  Wilkinson,  that  here  was  proof  of  the  use  of  the  pointed  arch  three  hun- 
dred years  before  it  was  introduced  into  England.  The  arches  of  the  colonnades 
and  also  of  the  windows  were  pointed.  The  windows  were  filled  with  a most 
beautiful  description  of  tracery,  each  window  being  different.  This  supplied 
the  place  of  stained  glass,  and  served  admirably  to  subdue  the  light ; we  have 
resolved,  if  possible,  to  procure  patterns  of  these  windows,  believing  that  they 
may  be  used  with  good  effect  in  our  ecclesiastical  architecture  at  home. 

After  examining  this  most  interesting  ruin  we  returned  through  the  city 
to  Boolak,  where  our  boat  lay.  On  embarking  we  learned  that  our  fellow- 
travellers  from  Malta,  Mrs.  Guthrie  and  her  two  sons,  had  come  on  board 
another  boat  which  they  had  taken  for  their  voyage  up  the  Nile,  and  which 
lay  near  ours.  As  they  had  not  had  dinner  prepared  we  invited  them  to  dine 
with  us. 

Our  rais  had  determined  when  the  wind  abated  at  night  to  get  his  boat  to 
windward  on  the  opposite  shore,  as  he  might  then  have  some  chance  to  tow  if 
the  wind  continued  unfavorable.  To  cheer  the  spirits  of  the  crew  for  this 
beginning  of  the  voyage,  their  musical  and  saltatorial  powers  were  put  into 
requisition,  and  we  were  treated  to  the  first  specimen  of  Arabian  song  and 
dance.  As  we  dined  late  they  began  before  we  had  finished  our  dinner ; we 
had  heard  the  drum,  the  pipe,  and  the  monotonous  song  for  some  time.  When 
we  went  out  we  found  them  forward  seated  in  a circle  upon  their  hams,  while 
one,  in  puris  naturalihus,  was  dancing  in  the  middle.  The  musical  instruments 


70 


ARAB  MUSIC  AND  DANCE. 


were  two  drums  of  earthenware,  shaped  like  demijohns  with  large  necks,  the 
bottom  being  broken  off  square  and  covered  with  parchments ; the  drums  had 
two  different  notes,  about  a fifth  apart.  The  next  instrument,  the  Arab  pipe, 
consisted  of  two  reeds  bound  together,  one  long,  which  gave  a tone  like  the 
drone  of  a bagpipe  ; the  shorter  one  had  holes  like  a flageolet,  and  of  course  its 
compass  was  very  small,  but  the  Arabian  tunes  seem  to  require  no  greater. 
Both  reeds  were  blown  together,  and  the  effect  was  like  that  of  a bagpipe,  only 
the  notes  were  fewer  and  not  so  shrill,  though  quite  as  harsh.  The  third 
instrument  was  a kind  of  metal  castanet.  Part  of  the  time  the  men  sang  in 
chorus,  marking  time  by  clapping  their  hands.  Occasionally  one  would  sing 
a verse,  the  others  joining  in  the  chorus.  The  dance  consisted  chiefly  in  move- 
ments of  the  body,  which  were  neither  decent  nor  graceful.  The  only  move- 
ment of  the  feet  consisted  in  an  occasional  turn  and  stamp.  The  whole  put  me 
in  mind  of  an  Indian  dance,  but  was  less  varied  and  expressive.  The  music 
was  barbarous,  and  the  effect  to  a civilized  looker-on,  after  the  first  curiosity 
was  gratified,  any  thing  but  pleasing.  At  the  end  the  amphibious  dancer  often 
plunges  into  the  river  to  cool  himself.  We  preferred  rest  to  the  performance, 
and  soon  retired  after  a fatiguing  day’s  work. 

Feb.  13 th. — On  rising  this  morning,  we  found  our  boat  on  the  opposite  side, 
but  we  had  made  little  or  no  progress  up  the  river.  The  wind  was  still  ahead, 
and  the  men  began  to  track  the  boat.  This  is  done  by  attaching  to  the  head  of 
the  mainmast  a long  line,  which  is  let  out  or  drawn  in,  as  the  indentations  of 
the  coast  and  the  shoals  of  the  river  may  require.  Our  progress  was  much 
retarded,  not  only  by  the  force  of  the  wind,  but  also  by  the  numbers  of  the 
boats  which  lay  tied  to  the  shore,  and  which  we  had  to  pass.  Where  the  bank 
was  sufficiently  high  this  impediment  was  got  over  with  comparative  ease. 
The  long  latteen  yards  were  let  down  horizontally,  and  as  our  towing  rope 
passed  over  them  they  were  raised  again,  and  the  rope  was  thus  easily  tripped 
over  the  head  of  the  mast.  But  when  the  banks  were  low,  the  rope  had  to  be 
passed  upon  the  outside  of  the  boats  in  succession,  our  boat  holding  on  to  one 
of  them  in  the  mean  time  by  a hawser,  to  prevent  being  carried  down  with 
the  stream.  As  we  were  thus  dragging  slowly  along  shore,  we  came  to  a 


THE  FERRY  AT  OLD  CAIRO 


EFFECTS  OF  A TYRANNICAL  GOVERNMENT. 


71 


steam-engine,  with  its  building  erected  on  the  very  edge  of  the  bank,  for  the 
purpose  of  raising  water  for  the  fields  of  one  of  the  Pashas.  Here  was  a 
striking  instance  of  the  utter  neglect  of  the  government  in  regard  to  the  conve- 
nience of  the  people.  A towing  path  might  have  been  made  outside  of  the 
building  with  the  utmost  ease ; but  there  was  nothing  except  a mass  of  broken 
stone  from  the  wall  to  the  water’s  edge.  And  when  our  men  attempted  to 
carry  the  rope  around  the  wall,  a guard  came  out  to  prevent  it,  lest  the  rope 
should  injure  the  corner  of  the  wall.  They  were  therefore  obliged  to  take  it 
on  board,  and  pole  the  boat  for  some  distance,  which  was  done  with  a good  deal 
of  difficulty  and  much  detention.  On  the  same  grounds  also  there  were  trees 
and  bushes  of  no  special  value,  which  greatly  interfered  with  the  towing  rope, 
and  which,  under  similar  circumstances  in  our  country,  or  in  any  country 
where  the  convenience  of  the  masses  of  the  people  was  cared  for  in  the  least, 
would  have  been  cut  down.  But  here  no  one  dares  touch  them,  and  our  poor 
fellows  had  to  work  their  way  as  well  as  they  could.  In  numberless  instances 
we  have  seen  the  same  evidence  of  the  utter  neglect  of  the  great  body  of  the 
people,  on  the  part  of  the  government.  With  all  the  labor  of  our  crew,  we 
made  only  about  four  or  five  miles  to-day,  and  at  night  we  were  a little  beyond 
Ghizeh,  and  opposite  old  Cairo.  Fearing  the  continuance  of  the  head  wind  to- 
morrow, we  have  resolved  to  embrace  the  opportunity  of  visiting  the  pyramids. 
We  shall  let  our  boat  go  on,  and  join  her  some  miles  up  the  river. 


FIRST  VISIT  TO  THE  PYRAMIDS. 

Feb.  14 th,  Wednesday. — This  has  been  a memorable  day  to  us,  on  account  of 
the  very  interesting  excursion  which  we  have  made  to  the  pyramids.  The  wind, 
as  we  had  anticipated,  was  still  ahead,  and  we  knew  that  our  boat  could  not  be 
tracked  more  than  six  or  eight  miles,  and  that  we  could  join  her  by  riding 
along  the  bank  of  the  river.  Our  dragoman  was  sent  off  at  sunrise  to  Old 
Cairo  to  order  donkeys,  which  were  ferried  over  for  us  to  the  opposite  shore  at 
Ghizeh,  and  after  an  early  breakfast  the  small  boat  took  us  thither. 


72 


¥ 

EGG  OVENS. — THE  EGYPTIAN  HEN. 

At  Ghizeh  there  are  extensive  establishments  for  hatching  chickens  by 
means  of  artificial  heat.  Whether  or  not  this  custom  is  peculiar  to  Egypt  I 
am  not  informed ; but  it  is  very  certain  that  it  has  existed  here  from  a very 
remote  antiquity,  even  as  far  back  as  the  times  of  the  Pharaohs.  Its  origin 
may  possibly  be  found  in  a peculiarity  of  the  Egyptian  hen.  This  bird  does 
not  differ  from  those  with  which  we  are  familiar,  except  that  it  is  generally 
much  smaller.  It  is  said,  however,  that  while  it  lays  eggs  freely,  it  manifests 
no  disposition  to  sit  upon  them.  To  determine  the  question  whether  this  is  a 
consequence  of  the  climate  or  belongs  to  the  breed,  a French  savant  has  pro- 
posed to  try  the  experiment  of  changing  a certain  number  of  fowls  between 
France  and  Egypt,  to  see  if  the  one  portion  would  lose  their  habit  of  hatching, 
and  the  other  regain  it.  The  hatching  is  effected  in  extensive  ovens  warmed  to 
a moderate  temperature,  about  104°  of  Fahrenheit.  We  were  informed  that 
the  men  employed  in  this  business  know  nothing  about  a thermometer,  but 
habit  enables  them  to  judge  accurately  of  the  heat  of  their  ovens.  It  requires 
many  years  of  practice  to  become  acquainted  with  this  art,  and  it  is  perpetuated 
in  certain  families.  Each  oven  contains  from  three  to  four  thousand  eggs,  and 
it  requires  from  twenty  to  twenty-five  days  to  hatch  the  chickens,  about  a fifth 
part  producing  nothing.  When  the  ovens  are  opened,  which  is  about  February 
or  March,  the  country  people  around  bring  in  their  eggs,  and  for  every  hundred 
they  receive  at  the  proper  time  fifty  chickens,  the  balance  being  the  profit  of 
the  oven.  It  is  said  that  in  the  course  of  the  year  24,000,000  of  chickens  are 
produced  from  two  hundred  ovens,  about  the  number  found  in  Egypt.  On  one 
occasion  we  went  through  one  of  these  establishments,  and  therefore  at  the 
present  time  we  were  not  long  detained  in  Ghizeh  from  the  far  more  interesting 
objects  we  had  in  view. 

Having  made  our  preparations  for  the  day’s  excursion,  we  mounted  our  use- 
ful little  animals,  and  as  we  rode  through  the  narrow  dirty  streets  of  the  town 
and  passed  by  a large  building,  a familiar  sound  assailed  us,  but  one  which 
seemed  strange  and  almost  startling  amidst  such  scenes  and  such  a population. 
A full  band  was  playing  martial  airs.  We  were  informed  that  it  was  the 
Pasha’s  band  of  Arab  musicians,  practising  under  their  French  teacher.  In  an 


D.  Appleton  8c  C?  200,  Broadway,  TSfew  York  . 


THE  PYRAMIDS  IN  THE  DISTANCE. 


73 


instant  Broadway,  the  City  Hall,  the  crowded  side-walks,  and  a military  display, 
shut  Ghizeh  from  my  view ; but  association  was  at  work,  and  quickly  changed 
this  scene  to  one  which  was  not  so  easily  displaced,  my  home,  my  church,  and 
beloved  family  and  friends  far,  far  away. 

The  way  to  the  pyramids  is  varied,  according  to  the  condition  of  the  river. 
When  the  Nile  is  at  its  height  the  traveller  is  obliged  to  resort  to  boats  to  make 
his  way  from  one  island  to  another.  For  the  whole  face  of  the  country,  at  such 
times,  is  an  inland  sea,  dotted  with  little  islands,  upon  which  the  houses  peep 
out  picturesquely  from  clumps  of  beautiful  palm-trees.  At  other  times,  when 
the  river  is  not  yet  risen  to  its  height,  or  has  already  begun  to  fall,  the  traveller 
makes  his  way  along  the  banks  of  the  canals,  and  by  a very  circuitous  path  is 
enabled  to  avoid  the  impediment  presented  by  the  water.  But  at  the  time  of 
our  visit  the  river  was  sufficiently  low  to  offer  us  a more  direct  route,  so  that 
we  crossed  the  deep  and  dry  bed  of  the  great  canal.  All  the  time  the  Pyramids 
were  in  sight,  and  it  was  singular  to  note  the  deception  created  by  their  great 
size  and  the  clearness  of  the  atmosphere  combined.  At  first  they  appeared 
neither  very  high  nor  very  distant ; so  that  we  expected  to  reach  them  at  the 
end  of  half  an  hour’s  ride.  But  after  the  lapse  of  this  time  they  seemed  no 
nearer  nor  larger,  and  we  patiently  rode  on  over  the  fields  for  another  hour. 
Even  then  there  was  scarcely  a perceptible  difference,  and  it  was  not  until  the 
end  of  the  second  hour  that  they  were  evidently  less  distant  and  larger  than 
at  the  outset.  Arrived  at  the  confines  of  the  great  sand-heap  which  sur- 
rounds the  rock  upon  which  the  Pyramids  are  built,  we  began  to  ascend,  our 
donkeys  sinking  in  the  sand  at  every  step.  At  no  great  distance  from  the  first 
Pyramid,  in  a deep  sandy  hollow,  stands  the  world-famed  Sphinx,  which,  how- 
ever, we  now  passed  rapidly  in  our  anxiety  to  reach  the  foot  of  the  great  Pyra- 
mid. Nor  was  it  till  we  stood  at  the  north-eastern  angle,  and  looked  up  at  the 
immense  pile  above  us,  and  observed  that  the  first  course  of  the  innumerable 
layers  of  huge  stones  was  nearly  as  high  as  ourselves,  that  we  could  form  any 
just  idea  of  the  vast  and  solid  proportions  of  these  ancient  and  mysterious 
giants  of  the  desert.  There  we  stood,  gazing  upward,  the  eye  glancing  along 
from  step  to  step,  and  almost  wearied  with  reaching  the  summit  of  these  won- 
10 


74 


MANNER  OF  BUILDING  THE  PYRAMIDS. 


derful  creations,  until  we  seemed  to  ourselves  as  pigmies,  or  only  as  so  many 
insects  at  the  foot  of  a huge  ant-hill. 

As  we  stood  at  the  base  of  the  great  Pyramid  of  Cheops,  I could  compare 
its  present  condition  with  no  other  emblem  save  the  frame  of  some  mighty 
giant,  divested  of  the  skin  and  outer  integuments,  and  presenting  only  the 
muscular  form  of  the  original  structure.  This  accounts  for  the  singular  and 
apparently  ridiculous  notion  of  Herodotus  that  the  Pyramids  were  finished  from 
the  top  downwards.  For  after  the  immense  gradations,  or  courses,  were  laid, 
of  stones  quarried  in  the  neighborhood,  or  brought  from  the  hills  Gebel  Mokat- 
tum,  upon  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  the  builders  would  be  enabled  to 
ascend  to  the  summit  of  their  huge  skeleton.  Here,  by  means  of  inclined 
planes,  they  could  draw  up  the  polished  apex  itself,  and  afterwards,  descending 
course  after  course,  finish  the  work  by  fixing  the  stones  of  marble  or  of  granite, 
highly  polished  on  one  side,  into  the  face  of  the  whole  Pyramid.  That  this 
was  the  mode  of  construction,  is  not  only  evident  from  the  ancient  accounts, 
but  from  the  present  appearance  of  the  Pyramid  of  Cephrenes,  which  still  pre- 
sents the  polished  surface  for  one  quarter  of  its  height  from  the  summit  down- 
wards. In  the  Pyramid  of  Mycerinus,  this  is  made  still  more  evident,  from  the 
ruins  of  rose-colored  granite  which  surround  it.  If  any  one  is  curious  to  know 
why  these  great  works  should  have  been  so  far  destroyed,  the  building  of  the 
city  of  Cairo  furnishes  the  answer ; for  these  quarries  were  the  nearest  and  the 
most  tempting  to  the  builders.  We  have  an  account  of  the  work  of  destruction, 
recorded  by  Abdallatif.  He  says  that  “when  Melic  Alalaliz  Othman  ben- Yousuf 
succeeded  his  father,  he  allowed  himself  to  be  persuaded  by  some  senseless 
courtiers  to  demolish  the  Pyramids,  and  that  he  sent  thither  miners,  sappers, 
and  quarriers,  under  the  direction  of  some  of  the  principal  officers  and  princes 
of  his  court,  with  orders  to  overturn  it — the  red  Pyramid,  viz.,  that  of  Myce- 
rinus. To  execute  the  orders  with  which  they  were  charged,  they  went  and 
encamped  near  the  Pyramid,  and  collected  a number  of  laborers,  whom  they 
maintained  at  an  enormous  expense.  Here  they  remained  for  eight  whole 
months,  laboring  hard  to  execute  their  commission ; but  their  utmost  efforts, 
with  people  raising  with  picks  and  levers  above,  and  pulling  with  ropes  and 


FRUITLESS  ATTEMPT  TO  DESTROY  THEM. 


75 


cables  below,  could  not  remove  above  one  or  two  stones  a day : and  after  tlie 
stone  was  down  at  the  foot  of  the  Pyramid,  they  were  obliged  to  break  it  in 
pieces  in  order  to  carry  it  out  of  the  way ; and  one  of  the  engineers  is  reported 
to  have  said,  that  although  he  were  to  get  several  thousand  pieces  of  gold,  he 
could  not  readjust  one  of  these  stones  in  its  former  place.  In  fine,  they  aban- 
doned the  attempt  without  demolishing  the  Pyramid ; and  in  the  opinion  of 
Abdallatif,  without  much  reducing  its  dimensions.  This  foolish  attempt  is 
stated  to  have  been  made  in  the  year  of  the  Hegira  598,  of  Christ  1196.  Hence 
the  coating  of  the  large  Pyramid  of  Cheops,  two-thirds  of  that  of  Cephren,  and 
the  greater  part  of  many  of  the  smaller  Pyramids,  have  all  been  carried  away, 
and  may  now  be  sought  for  in  the  immense  causeway  and  the  innumerable 
arches  which  he  constructed  between  Grhizeh  and  the  Pyramids,  and  in  the  cita- 
del, the  mosques,  and  the  walls  of  Cairo.”  The  remains  of  this  Causeway  we 
saw  near  the  Pyramids,  but  the  greater  part  of  it  upon  the  lower  ground,  has 
been  swept  away  by  the  overflowing  of  the  Nile. 


THE  ASCENT  OP  THE  GREAT  PYRAMID. 

We  now  prepared  ourselves  for  the  ascent  of  the  Pyramid,  and  this,  we 
were  told,  and  could  easily  see,  was  a work  of  some  difficulty  and  labor.  A 
host  of  Arabs  proffered  their  services,  and  from  these  our  dragoman  selected 
three  for  each  of  us,  as  it  is  not  only  necessary  to  be  assisted  by  a man  at  each 
side,  but  sometimes  also  by  a somewhat  unceremonious  push.  Besides,  the 
Arabs,  by  long  practice,  have  acquired  great  facility,  and  an  exact  knowledge 
of  the  easiest  way  ; for  #the  ascent  is  not  direct,  but  a zigzag  course  must  be 
pursued,  which  the  guides  point  out  to  you.  Sometimes,  when  it  is  attempted 
by  ladies,  a wooden  step  is  taken  along,  which  is  planted  by  the  Arabs  at  the 
most  difficult  places.  A person  of  great  activity  might,  and  sometimes  does  go 
up  without  assistance,  and  the  way  may  be  accomplished  by  an  Arab  in  five 
minutes,  which  would  occupy  an  ordinary  person,  with  sufficient  time  to.  rest, 
nearly  half  an  hour.  A little  more  than  half-way  up,  there  is  a spot  where  the 


76 


PKOSPECT  FKOM  THE  SUMMIT. 


stones  have  been  dug  out  and  thrown  down,  so  as  to  form  a small  recess,  which 
is  used  by  travellers  as  a resting-place.  Thus  we  ascended,  setting  our  faces 
towards  the  face  of  the  rock,  and  seldom  looking  down  at  the  “ pernicious  ” 
depth  below  us,  though  we  sometimes  looked  up  at  the  gigantic  flight  of  steps, 
which  seemed  to  mount  into  the  very  skies.  We  were  obliged  to  stop  frequently 
and  take  breath  for  a new  trial,  for  the  labor  was  very  great,  with  the  sun 
beating  fiercely  down  upon  the  heated  rock.  The  discomfort  of  the  toil  would 
have  been  far  greater,  but  for  a refreshing  breeze  that  blew  all  the  while,  and 
which  became  a strong  wind  when  we  reached  the  summit.  This  was  about 
thirty  feet  square,  with  a layer  of  stone  blocks,  somewhat  raised  in  the  centre, 
and  which  serve  the  weary  traveller  as  a seat  to  rest  upon  while  he  contem- 
plates the  unique  and  almost  boundless  prospect  around  and  below  him.  We 
occupied  ourselves  with  this,  instead  of  imitating  the  poor  ambition  which  had 
led  so  many  travellers  to  carve  their  perishable  names  upon  the  blocks  which 
furnished  our  resting-place. 

Stretching  away  to  the  north  and  east,  the  eye  rested  with  delight  upon  one 
of  the  most  fertile  spots  in  the  world,  the  valley  of  the  Nile,  teeming  with 
fruitfulness,  while  the  wonderful  river,  the  source  of  all  this  wealth,  was  wind- 
ing its  way  to  the  sea,  leaving  behind  it  innumerable  shining  lakes  or  canals, 
glistening  in  the  sunshine.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  gleamed  the 
white  houses,  and  the  towers  and  minarets  of  Cairo,  with  the  island  of  Rhoda ; 
while  nearer  still,  between  us  and  the  city,  were  countless  villages,  embosomed 
amid  the  palm-trees.  At  our  feet  lay  the  irregular  hillocks  of  yellow  sand,  and 
the  mysterious  monument  of  the  Sphinx.  The  contrast  on  the  west  was  won- 
derful enough ; for  there  the  yellow  sand-hills  of  the  Libyan  desert,  without 
one  particle  of  vegetation,  presented  the  aspect  of  eternal  sterility.  There  was 
something  awfully  sublime,  and  almost  fearful,  in  this  intense  desolation. 
Upon  the  south,  the  Pyramids  of  Sakkara,  Abousier,  and  Dashour,  seemed 
spread  out  like  so  many  tents,  or  like  some  great  encampment  upon  the  edge  of 
the  desert. 

While  here,  one  of  our  Arab  guides,  for  a small  compensation,  offered  to 
descend  the  Pyramid  and  go  to  the  top  of  that  of  Cephrenes.  In  a few  moments 


VISIT  TO  THE  INTERIOR. 

# 


77 


lie  started,  apparently  upon  the  run,  down  the  side  of  the  steep  precipice,  and 
very  soon  we  saw  him,  like  some  small  insect,  crawling  up  the  side  of  the 
opposite  monument.  He  accomplished  the  first  portion  of  his  task  with  great 
ease,  until  he  came  to  the  polished  surface  of  the  last  part  of  his  singular  jour- 
ney, and  here  he  must  have  found  small  holes  in  which  he  could  fix  his  feet, 
until  we  saw  him  standing  upon  the  summit. 

After  feasting  our  eyes  upon  the  magnificent  prospect  around  us,  and 
endeavoring  to  fix  its  main  features  for  ever  in  our  memories,  we  began  to  pre- 
pare ourselves  for  the  descent.  This  certainly  seemed  to  us,  at  the  first,  a 
doubtful,  if  not  a perilous  enterprise.  For,  standing  where  we  could  not 
distinguish  the  steps,  and  could  only  see  the  immense  inclined  plane,  and  the 
apparently  interminable  distance  below,  it  certainly  required  some  firmness  of 
nerve,  and  a resolute  attention  to  the  step  next  before  us,  to  remove  the  impres- 
sion of  danger.  The  Arabs  were  very  attentive,  and  our  nerves  pretty  firm, 
and  we  accomplished  the  downward  much  sooner  than  the  upward  journey. 

When  we  had  taken  some  refreshment,  which  was  now  very  grateful,  we  were 
ready  to  visit  the  interior.  We*  were  advised  to  lay  aside  a portion  of  our  gar- 
ments, as  the  heat  within  was  said  to  be  very  great,  and  we  should  need  them 
again  upon  our  return  to  the  open  air.  We  went  over  some  broken  mounds  of 

I 

rubbish  upon  the  north  side,  and  found  the  entrance  situated  about  one-third  of 
the  way  up  the  Pyramid.  It  was  lined  with  slabs  of  porphyry,  well  fitted  to 
each  other,  and  admirably  polished.  The  whole  of  the  passage  was  lined  in 
the  same  manner.  After  descending  a short  distance  a sloping  way,  in  which 
notches  were  cut  to  fix  the  feet  more  firmly,  we  came  to  the  King’s  Chamber. 
In  this  is  the  Sarcophagus,  which  is  now  somewhat  injured,  and  the  cover  has 
been  removed.  It  gave  back  a clear  ringing  sound,  on  being  struck  with  a 
stone.  Upon  our  return,  we  found  the  garments  we  had  left  behind  us  by  no 
means  uncomfortable  when  resumed. 

Thence  we  went  to  look  at  the  Sphinx.  Most  persons  have,  probably,  a 
general  idea  of  the  appearance  of  this  monument.  It  stands  to  the  east  of  the 
Pyramids,  on  a lower  level,  and  has  become  imbedded  in  sand,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  the  head  and  the  upper  part  of  the  body.  Though  the  face  is  much 


78 


THE  SPHINX. 


mutilated,  the  general  expression  may  still  be  gathered,  and  is  one  indicative 
of  great  placidity.  Some  years  ago  an  excavation  was  attempted  by  a party  of 
gentlemen,  headed  by  Caviglia.  They  succeeded  in  digging  away  the  sand 
from  the  lower  part,  and  though  the  sand  has  been  again  blown  in,  we  have  the 
following  account  of  its  appearance  at  that  time  : “ The  whole  of  it  is  cut  out 
of  the  rock,  which  is  calcareous,  easily  sectile,  and  abounding  in  small  bivalve 
shells ; and  probably  the  large  excavations  in  front,  and  on  each  side  of  it,  fur- 
nished part  of  the  stones  for  the  building  of  the  pyramids.  The  back  is  about 
120  feet  long ; the  elevation  of  the  head  from  80  to  85  feet  above  the  sand ; 
the  paws  were  said  to  stretch  out  upon  the  platform  in  front  of  it  to  the  distance 
of  50  feet.  Between  the  paws  were  found  the  remains  of  a trilithic  temple, 
adorned  with  hieroglyphics.  In  front  of  the  temple  was  a granite  altar,  with 
four  horns,  and  the  marks  of  fire,  from  the  burning  of  incense,  were  visible 
upon  it.  Several  Greek  inscriptions  were  found  on  the  paws  of  the  Sphinx, 
but  none  of  them  older  than  the  second  century.  One  of  them  is  signed 
Arrianus,  and  is  merely  an  address  by  the  poet  of  that  name,  to  the  Sphinx,  as 
the  guardian  genius  of  the  King  of  Egypt.” 


ORIGINAL  DESIGN  OF  THE  PYRAMIDS. 

/ 

The  purpose  for  which  the  . Pyramids  were  built,  must  remain,  as  it  has 
done  for  long  ages,  involved  in  the  mystery  of  the  fabulous  past.  But,  though 
modern  opinion  may  have  undergone  some  change  on  this  point,  there  was 
long  a unanimous  consent  that  they  were  the  gigantic  burial  places  of  the 
princes  who  had  built  them.  All  the  Greek  and  Roman  writers  who  have 
mentioned  the  Pyramids,  have  either  held  or  repeated  this  opinion,  whether 
derived  from  the  relations  of  the  ancient  priests,  or  from  the  general  opinion  of 
the  people  Of  Egypt.  In  after  times,  when  examinations  of  the  interior  were 
made,  there  was  the  same  agreement,  upon  the  result  of  such  researches,  among 
the  Arabian  writers.  In  the  Pyramids  which  were  opened  by  the  orders  of 
the  Caliphs,  there  were  always  found  mummies,  either  of  men  or  of  animals, 
the  latter  being  probably  some  portion  of  the  host  of  Egyptian  gods. 


D. Appk-ion  & C?  200,  Broadway,  Hew  York. 


DESIGN  OF  THE  PYRAMIDS. 


79 


But  in  this  century,  discoveries  have  been  made  which  tend  greatly  to  shake, 
if  not  to  destroy,  the  long  received  opinion  that  the  Pyramids  were  the  burial- 
places  and  the  monuments  of  princes.  In  1817,  Belzoni  having  succeeded  in 
reaching  the  interior  of  the  second  Pyramid  of  Ghizeh,  found  in  the  great  Sar- 
cophagus bones,  which  were  forwarded  to  the  Academy  of  Medicine  in  London, 
and  pronounced  to  be  the  remains  of  the  skeleton  of  a bull  or  ox.  This 
discovery  surprised  the  scientific  world,  and  was  so  opposed,  in  its  consequences, 
to  the  opinion  hitherto  universally  received,  that  it  encountered,  at  first,  no 

little  incredulity.  But  a new  discovery  of  Belzoni’s,  at  Thebes,  set  the  matter 

. 

at  rest ; for  he  there  found,  in  the  Tombs  of  the  Kings,  in  the  valley  Biban-el- 
Melook,  not  the  mere  bones  and  fragments,  but  the  entire  mummy  of  a bull, 
perfectly  preserved  in  its  bituminal  casings.  The  labors  of  Colonel  Howard 
Yyse  afterwards  placed  the  matter  beyond  dispute,  and  the  enormous  size  of 
the  Sarcophagi,  in  some  cases,  is  a sufficient  proof  that  they  were  never  designed 
for  human  mummies. 

But  a more  interesting  speculation  as  to  the  original  design  of  the  Pyramids 
has  been  given  to  the  world  by  a modern  French  writer,  Persigny,  who  sup- 
poses them  to  have  been  built  in  order  to  arrest  the  progress  of  the  sands  from 
the  desert,  and  thus  to  have  had  the  great  patriotic  purpose  of  preserving  the 
cultivated  fields  of  Egypt  from  destruction.  This  theory  he  does  not  consider 
at  all  inconsistent  with  the  actual  devotion  of  these  immense  structures  to  the 
objects  of  superstition  or  royal  pride.  For  while,  on  the  one  hand,  the  sagacity 
of  the  priests,  to  whom  he  attributes  the  plan  and  the  accomplishment  of  these 
stupendous  undertakings,  would  perceive  the  vast  accession  of  strength  which 
they  might  gain  by  enlisting  in  their  cause  the  piety  of  the  nation,  they  would 
not  fail  to  discern  their  advantage  also  in  flattering  the  pride  of  the  monarch, 
who  would  thus  the  more  willingly  bend  his  energies  and  those  of  the  people 
to  the  completion  of  his  own  mighty  sepulchre. 

The  ingenious  author  tells  us  that  during  four  thousand  years  the  Pyramids 
have  been  considered  merely  as  tombs ; but  this  very  opinion  reveals  the  exist- 
ence of  a great  secret,  and  shows  that  the  Egyptian  priesthood  kept  back  from 
the  world  the  true  purpose  of  these  mighty  fabrics.  A tomb,  requiring  nearly 


80 


THE  THEORY  OF  PERSIGNY. 


as  much  labor,  experience,  and  material,  as  the  building  of  a great  city,  is 
almost  an  inconceivable  idea,  and  indicates  the  existence  of  a deeper  mystery. 
He  supposes  that  he  may  have  discovered  the  great  secret  of  their  construction, 
and  unravelled  the  riddle  of  the  Sphinx  which  stands  near  their  base. 

Before  his  visit  to  the  Pyramids  themselves,  M.  de  Persigny  became  con- 
vinced that  if  his  theory  were  true,  that  they  were  intended  as  barriers  to  pro- 
tect the  valley  of  the  Nile  against  the  irruption  of  the  sands  of  the  desert,  they 
would  satisfy  certain  conditions.  As,  for  example,  they  would  be  found  upon 
the  borders  of  the  desert ; they  would  be  chiefly  opposed  to  the  desert  on  the 
side  of  the  Libyan  chain  ; and  as  the  Libyan  mountains  are  the  chief  barrier  of 
Egypt  against  the  sands,  the  Pyramids  would  be  found  in  the  gorges  where  the 
protection  of  the  mountains  failed.  Again,  the  Libyan  chain  has  but  three 
valleys  which  join  the  plain  of  the  Nile,  one  fertile,  and  the  other  two  desert 
and  covered  with  moving  sands.  The  opening  of  these  deserts,  or  their  mouth, 
into  the  plain,  would  therefore  be  the  place  to  look  for  the  Pyramids.  In 
different  situations,  they  would  correspond  in  size  and  number  to  the  greatness 
of  the  danger,  and  be  grouped  accordingly.  Every  group  would  present  the 
largest  Pyramid  in  the  lowest,  and  the  smallest  in  the  most  elevated  position. 
And  lastly,  where  the  Arabs  had  demolished  these  artificial  barriers,  the  plain 
would  exhibit  proofs  of  the  want  of  its  defences. 

Upon  examination,  it  was  found  that  the  position,  number,  size,  &c.,  of  the 
Pyramids  corresponded  to  these  conditions,  and  that  they  therefore  might  be 
supposed  to  present,  on  a great  scale,  such  opposition  to  the  encroachments  of 
the  sand,  as  I have  already  alluded  to  in  speaking  of  the  rows  of  wild  fig-trees 
planted  in  Lower  Egypt  for  the  same  purpose.  (See  page  85.) 

In  the  neighborhood  of  the  Sphinx  and  the  Pyramids,  there  are  numerous 
excavations  in  the  rock,  which,  however,  we  had  not  time  to  visit,  as  night  was 
approaching,  and  we  had  a long  distance  to  ride  in  order  to  reach  our  boat, 
which  was  already  gone  up  the  river  before  us.  And  in  addition  to  this  reason 
for  not  making  a longer  stay  at  this  time,  it  was  our  intention  to  visit  again 
these  remarkable  monuments  upon  our  return,  and  make  farther  observations, 
— which  we  were  happily  able  to  accomplish. 


THE  SAILORS  OF  THE  NILE. 


81 


Feb.  VJth. — We  rose  early  this  morning  at  daybreak  to  rouse  the  rais  and 
crew,  and  get  the  boat  under  way.  As  there  was  no  wind  the  crew  were 
obliged  to  tow  the  boat.  Crossing  the  river  we  unfortunately  got  into  a strong 
current,  and  where  the  footing  on  shore  was  so  muddy  that  the  men  had  little 
or  no  foothold ; we  therefore  lost  ground  and  were  obliged  to  recross  the  river. 
When  the  men  came  on  board  for  this  purpose  they  were  in  very  bad  humor, 
and  the  rais  was  little  better.  After  a good  deal  of  apparently  angry  discus- 
sion, the  whole  crew  talking  together,  the  rais  flew  at  one  man  who  was  push- 
ing with  a pole  and  threw  him  overboard.  The  poor  fellow  had  to  swim  for 
it ; but  luckily  for  him  the  small  boat  was  towing  astern  and  he  got  into  it. 
It  seems  that  he  had  answered  the  rais  impertinently,  and  this  was  a short-hand 
method  of  punishment.  He  got  back  into  the  large  boat  at  last,  and,  dripping 
wet  as  he  was,  went  to  work  without  saying  a word.  He  had  no  change  of 
clothes,  but  one  of  the  men  at  our  suggestion  lent  him  a woollen  wrapper  till 
his  blue  cotton  dress  was  dried.  The  Arab  sailors  on  the  Nile  have  hard  work 
and  wretched  fare,  and  seem  to  be  in  all  respects  worse  off  than  the  slaves  in 
the  South.  They  all  sleep  on  deck  exposed  to  the  weather,  wrapped  up  in  a 
coarse  brown  woollen  robe,  which  is  their  bed  by  night  and  their  outer  garment 
when  not  at  work  in  the  water ; when  they  work  with  it  on  they  tie  it  around 
them  with  a cord.  It  reaches  down  to  the  ankles,  has  wide  sleeves,  and  resem- 
bles a woman’s  dress  rather  than  a man’s.  Indeed,  the  greater  part  of  the 
lower  order  of  Arabs  look,  as  they  sit  squatting  upon  the  ground,  or  even  as 
they  walk  about,  like  old  women  in  dirty  and  ragged  brown  cloaks.  It  seems 
odd  enough  to  see  sailors  at  work  on  deck  and  even  going  aloft  in  this  trim. 
The  incumbrance  appears  inconsistent  with  efficient  labor,  and  yet  these  poor 
fellows  often  work  hard  at  the  rope  when  tracking  the  boat  on  shore,  or  on 
board  when  rowing  and  pushing  with  the  pole.  Beneath  this  dress  they 
usually  wear  a coarse  blue  or  brown  shirt.  Their  legs  and  feet  are  bare.  They 
are  all  excellent  swimmers  and  take  to  the  water  as  easily  as  dogs,  stripping 
themselves  in  a moment  when  necessary,  and  plunging  into  the  river  to  shove 
the  boat  or  to  carry  a rope  on  shore.  Their  fare  consists  of  a coarse  brown 
bread,  which  lies  in  a pile  upon  the  deck,  and  is  broken  small  into  a large 


11 


82 


FARE  OF  THE  SAILORS. — NILE  SCENES. 


wooden  bowl,  and  oyer  this  they  pour  a mess  of  sonp  made  of  peas,  water,  and 
salt ; this  is  their  whole  fare,  and  is  prepared  for  them  twice  a day.  They  all 
eat  ont  of  the  same  vessel,  some  with  spoons  and  some  with  their  fingers.  No 
meat  is  provided  for  them,  nor  any  change  of  diet  that  we  could  hear  of.  After 
their  meal  they  have  a few  pipes,  which  they  smoke  passing  them  from  one  to 
the  other.  Notwithstanding  this  wretched  provision  for  their  comfort,  they 
seem  contented  and  even  cheerful.  One  of  their  amusements,  of  which  they 
appear  to  be  very  fond,  is  singing  and  dancing  to  the  sound  of  the  two-reeded 
pipe  and  the  drums  which  I described.  The  drums  are  beaten  with  the  fingers 
of  both  hands,  and  have  different  notes,  like  kettle-drums.  Occasionally  there 
are  castanets  of  some  metallic  substance. 

Our  men  have  worked  well  to-day,  and  we  have  made  some  progress.  We 
have  given  them  coffee  twice  after  their  two  meals,  and  they  seem  to  be  quite 
delighted  with  the  treat.  The  coffee  is  made  strong,  and  they  drink  it  after  the 
Oriental  fashion,  grounds  and  all,  for  it  is  pounded  very  fine.  The  cups,  how- 
ever, scarcely  contain  so  much  as  a large  wine-glass. 

To-day,  as  we  sailed  up  the  river,  the  left  bank  presented  a peculiar  appear- 
ance. The  rocky  barrier  of  the  valley  seemed  to  approach  the  Nile,  as  if  the 
desert  were  ready  to  encroach  upon  it.  The  rocks  are  of  a yellow  sand  color, 
and  are  broken  into  fantastic  shapes  of  hillocks  and  mounds.  Many  of  them 
approach  so  near  the  pyramidal  form,  that  I thought  the  idea  of  the  pyramids 
might  have  been  naturally  suggested  by  these  formations. 

At  a turn  in  one  place  upon  the  river,  we  could  see  a fleet  of  boats  following 
us,  while  we  looked  directly  across  the  level  country,  between  us  and  them ; 
and  as  they  were  going  before  the  wind,  the  latteen  sails  had  a most  singular 
and  beautiful  effect ; for  they  seemed  like  a flock  of  huge  birds  with  their  wings 
lifted  up,  as  if  about  to  take  flight.  • 

After  dinner,  when  the  men  went  to  towing  again,  we  took  a turn  of  walk- 
ing on  the  shore,  and  found  the  land  fertile  and  well  covered  with  a beautiful 
growth  of  wheat,  sprouting  up  green.  At  sunset,  as  there  was  no  wind  and 
the  men  needed  rest,  we  cast  anchor  for  the  night  in  the  middle  of  the  river. 

Feb.  18 th. — This  morning  our  boat  was  under  way  before  sunrise,  and  as 


MEETING  WITH  FRIENDS. 


83 


there  was  no  wind  the  men  were  towing  on  shore.  Between  seven  and  eight 
o’clock  we  saw  a boat  sailing  down  stream,  and  soon  discovered  her  to  be  a 
passenger  boat  with  some  foreign  ensign  ; but  we  could  not  at  first  ascertain  of 
what  nation,  as  the  flag  hung  close  to  the  staff.  We  hoisted  our  banner,  and 
soon  after  saw  the  small  boat  preparing  to  leave  for  the  purpose  of  boarding  us. 
We  now  made  out  the  stripes  of  our  national  banner,  and  were  in  anxious 
expectation  as  to  whom  of  our  countrymen  we  should  have  the  pleasure  of 
greeting  at  this  far  distance  from  home.  As  the  boat  drew  near,  I made  out  by 
the  aid  of  the  glass,  my  friend  the  Rev.  Mr.  Spencer,  and  soon  had  the  great 
satisfaction  of  grasping  his  hand,  and  of  seeing  at  once  that  his  health  was 
greatly  improved  since  the  time  I had  met  him  at  Paris.  He  was  accompanied 
by  his  travelling  companion,  young  Mr.  Pratt.  The  interview  was  very  delight- 
ful, though  of  necessity  a short  one ; for  their  boat  was  going  down  stream  and 
left  us  rapidly.  We  had  time,  however,  to  write  a few  lines  to  be  forwarded  by 
him  from  Cairo  to  our  families  at  Rome.  After  mutual  farewells  and  good 
wishes  we  separated,  expecting  to  meet  again  in  Jerusalem. 

The  same  range  of  hills  that  we  saw  yesterday  upon  the  left,  still  continued, 
and  sometimes  came  down  to  the  river’s  edge.  They  exhibited  perfectly  hori- 
zontal strata  of  sand-colored  stone,  in  some  places  forming  a level  table,  and  in 
others  broken  into  mounds,  the  pyramidal  shape  still  preponderating.  At 
length  we  came  to  a difficult  passage  in  the  river,  which  we  had  hard  work  to 
get  through,  in  consequence  of  the  strength  of  the  stream  and  a head  wind 
which  had  risen.  The  sailors  stripped  and  jumped  into  the  water,  in  order  to 
carry  the  towing  rope  from  one  shoal  to  another.  In  one  place  they  were  all 
compelled  to  swim,  and  the  current  was  so  strong  that  two  of  them  were  swept 
away,  and  would  have  been  in  some  danger,  had  they  not  succeeded  in  getting 
on  board  a small  boat  that  was  following  us  just  in  the  rear.  At  last,  however, 
by  dint  of  pushing  with  poles  in  addition  to  the  towing-rope,  we  resisted  the 
stream  and  got  far  enough  to  windward  to  make  sail. 

This  being  Sunday,  after  the  noise  and  confusion  of  the  preceding  operation 
was  over,  we  retired  to  our  cabin  to  read  together  the  service  of  the  church,  and 
in  our  prayers  to  offer  petitions  for  our  dear  families  in  Rome  and  in  America. 


84 


MODE  OF  CARRYING  WATER. 


Upon  returning  to  the  deck  we  found  that  the  town  of  Benesouef  was  in  sight, 
at  the  estimated  distance  of  seventy-seven  miles  from  Cairo.  Here  we  sent  on 
shore  for  some  fresh  provisions,  but  did  not  ourselves  land.  But  from  the  boat 
we  could  see  quite  a number  of  women  coming  down  to  the  river  with  their 
jars  for  water.  At  every  village  we  had  noticed  the  same  thing.  It  is  astonish- 
ing to  mark  with  what  dexterity  the  business  is  accomplished.  The  jars  are 
quite  large,  and  must  contain  six  or  seven  gallons.  They  are  broad  upon  the 
ground,  but  have  narrow  mouths,  with  a handle  upon  each  side,  something  like 
an  ancient  amphora.  The  women  wade  into  the  river  up  to  their  knees,  drag- 
ging the  jars  after  them,  which  they  fill  and  pull  out  in  the  same  way.  Reach- 
ing the  beach,  they  stoop  down  upon  one  knee  and  lifting  the  jar  to  the  other, 
very  dexterously  place  it  on  the  head,  so  balanced  that  no  hand  is  needed  to 
support  it.  They  then  rise  up  perfectly  erect,  and  walk  off  with  as  much  appa- 
rent ease  as  if  they  carried  no  burden.  Sometimes,  when  there  are  two,  they 
contrive  to  help  each  other,  the  first  putting  the  jar  upon  her  companion’s  head 
while  she  kneels,  then  rises  ; and  the  first  having  now  placed  her  jar  upon  her 
knee,  the  second  stoops  down,  keeping  her  head  and  jar  erect,  and  helps  her 
companion  in  turn  to  lift  her  load.  This  has  been  one  of  the  occupations  of 
the  women  of  this  land  from  the  earliest  ages,  and  has  probably  been  performed 
by  them  in  precisely  the  same  manner  from  generation  to  generation. 

This  evening  we  have  kept  under  sail  with  a fair  wind.  About  10  o’clock, 
as  we  had  got  aground  for  a short  time,  the  boat  in  which  were  our  countryman 
Mr.  Crosby,  his  wife,  her  mother,  and  Mr.  Churchill,  took  the  lead  of  us.  We 
have  been  in  company  since  we  left  Naples,  and  shall  probably  arrive  at  Thebes 
about  the  same  time. 

Feb.  19 th. — This  morning  on  awaking  I found  we  were  at  anchor  in  the 
river,  the  wind  having  died  away  in  the  night.  At  sunrise  the  rope  was  carried 
on  shore,  and  the  men  began  to  tow.  After  a while  we  came  to  a branch  of 
the  river  which  was  to  be  crossed.  The  stream  ran  through  it  with  considera- 
ble force,  and  we  had  some  difficulty  in  getting  over.  While  it  was  shallow 
the  poles  were  used,  but  when  it  became  too  deep  for  this  operation,  the  men 
stripped  and  jumped  overboard,  the  first  swimming  with  the  rope  in  his  mouth, 


GRATUITY  TO  THE  SAILORS. — EL  FASHER. 


85 


the  others  following  and  helping.  The  morning  was  quite  cool,  the  thermome- 
ter indicating  47  ° ; but  the  poor  fellows  did  not  seem  to  mind  it.  They  swam 
with  great  strength  against  the  stream,  and  on  landing  pulled  stoutly  till  the 
object  was  accomplished.  They  then  came  shivering  a little  with  the  cold,  and 
put  on  their  few  garments,  which  hardly  seemed  a sufficient  protection.  They 
are  an  enduring,  hardy,  and  hard-faring  race.  The  wind  soon  after  came  out 
favorably,  and  we  got  under  full  sail,  and  the  sailors  took  their  meagre  breakfast 
of  hard  coarse  bread  softened  with  pea-soup,  such  as  I described,  eating,  some 
with  spoons,  and  some  with  their  fingers  only,  all  out  of  the  same  wooden  bowl. 
This  morning,  for  a rarity,  they  had  some  green  leeks  or  onions,  which  gave  an 
unwonted  relish  to  their  breakfast,  and  which  were  probably  bought  yesterday 
at  Benesouef.  We  yesterday  distributed  three  dollars  amongst  the  rais  and 
crew,  giving  the  first  one  dollar  and  the  men  two  dollars  among  them.  This  is 
a customary  gratuity  on  arriving  at  a few  of  the  principal  places  upon  the  river. 
With  this  sum  they  were  enabled  to  buy  some  meat  and  a few  other  luxuries, 
and  we  had  the  satisfaction  of  seeing  them  eat  what  was  to  them  a good  dinner 
of  animal  food,  though  it  would  have  been  hard  enough  fare  for  us ; for  it  was 
only  warm  boiled  beef  of  the  buffalo.  They,  however,  were  thankful  for  it, 
and  seemed  to  enjoy  it  with  great  glee. 

We  sailed  on  famously,  and  about  nine  o’clock  came  in  sight  of  El  Fasher, 
a considerable  town  about  a mile  distant  from  the  river,  on  the  right  hand  side. 
It  looked  very  pretty  with  its  minarets  and  one  or  two  cupolas  amongst  the 
palm-trees.  One  minaret  especially  had  a very  good  effect  with  its  yellow  stone 
shaft  springing  from  the  midst  of  a fine  clump  of  palms.  As  we  sail  along  we 
see  a number  of  storks  or  herons,  standing  like  posts  ahead  of  us,  but  as  we 
approach  they  raise  themselves  heavily,  with  outstretched  neck  and  legs,  to 
alight  again  a little  farther  on.  Our  boat  too  is  constantly  visited  by  a very 
pretty  little  bird  of  variegated  black  and  white  plumage,  and  which  alights 
familiarly  on  deck  to  pick  up  the  crumbs,  and  as  it  is  never  disturbed  it  seems 
to  have  little  or  no  fear  of  man.  We  have  noticed  the  same  species  all  the  way 
from  Alexandria.  The  doves  too  occasionally  fly  from  the  shore  to  see  what 
they  can  find  on  board,  and  walk  about,  or  light  on  the  rigging,  without  fear. 


86 


A SAND  STORM. — EGYPTIAN  DOGS. 


We  have  had  another  difficult  branch  of  the  river  to  cross.  The  wind  being 
directly  against  us  and  blowing  very  fresh,  it  was  some  time  before  the  towing- 
rope  could  be  got  to  the  other  side,  and  we  were  almost  out  of  patience  with 
the  bungling  manner  in  which  the  sailors  went  to  work.  Had  it  not  been  for 
the  perseverance  of  my  friend,  Mr.  M.,  in  urging  the  rais  to  the  accomplishment 
of  this  object,  he  would  have  tied  his  boat  to  the  shore  and  have  waited  for  the 
wind  to  subside,  by  which  means  we  should  have  lost  a great  deal.  When  we 
were  once  past  this  narrow  place,  and  had  towed  on  for  a while,  a bend  in  the 
river  enabled  us  to  carry  sail  again.  In  the  latter  part  of  the  afternoon  the 
whole  atmosphere  became  thick  with  a seeming  haze,  which  was  fine  sand 
blown  from  the  desert.  The  sun  and  sky  were  completely  obscured.  The 
wind  was  so  fresh,  and  the  banks  of  the  river  were  so  much  hidden  by  the 
haze,  that  our  rais  was  afraid  to  carry  sail,  though  the  wind  was  directly  in  our 
favor.  For  some  time  we  went  before  it  under  bare  poles,  but  through  the  per- 
severance of  my  friend,  and  by  his  ingenious  contrivance,  a small  square  sail 
was  rigged  up  on  the  foremast  which  helped  us  forward  and  was  perfectly  safe. 
The  rais  and  sailors  themselves  acknowledged  it  to  be  good,  saying  buono , buono, 
the  only  Italian  word  they  know.  In  the  evening  the  wind  lulled,  the  sandy 
haze  cleared  away,  and  we  got  under  full  sail,  going  up  the  stream  at  a good 
rate  before  the  wind. 

The  fine  sand  has  covered  every  thing,  and  has  fallen  upon  my  open  books 
and  writing  paper  in  a gritty  dust,  which  does  not  blow  off  and  is  not  wiped  off 
without  some  difficulty.  It  fills  the  eyes,  the  skin  and  the  hair,  and  soils  our 
shirt-collars  in  a very  short  time.  Towards  ten  the  wind  subsided  entirely,  and 
we  were  obliged  to  come  to  anchor.  The  sky  is  clear  and  the  night  calm,  and 
over  the  water  in  all  directions  we  hear  the  barking  of  dogs  in  the  villages. 
Every  where  there  are  numbers  of  these  animals  in  the  towns  and  hamlets,  and 
they  seem  to  have  no  masters,  but  run  wild,  barking  and  fighting  with  one 
another  day  and  night.  They  have  a wolfish  appearance,  and  seem  to  be  half- 
famished.  In  the  neighborhood  of  Cairo,  outside  the  walls,  they  are  seen  in 
troops.  The  Mohammedans  have  a superstitious  reverence  for  these  animals  ; 


f 


TRAINING  OF  WATER-CARRIERS. — NILE  APPETITE. 


87 


or,  at  any  rate,  I have  never  seen  a dog  beaten  or  abused  or  kicked  out  of  the 
way  by  an  Egyptian. 

Feb.  20th. — This  morning  at  daybreak  our  boat  got  under  way  with  a very 
slight  breeze,  which  soon  failed  us,  and  we  resorted  to  the  tow-rope  again.  We 
took  this  opportunity  of  jumping  on  shore  for  a walk,  and  carried  our  guns  with 
us  in  case  we  should  see  any  birds.  We  had  not  yet  tried  them,  and  our  pow- 
der was  so  coarse  that  we  had  some  difficulty  in  getting  the  caps  to  take  effect 
upon  it.  We  saw  some  pigeons,  and  shot  once  or  twice  without  effect.  Coming 
to  a village,  we  saw  the  women  with  their  jars  going  to  the  river  for  their 
morning’s  supply  of  water,  and  we  watched  the  process  I have  before  described. 
There  were  females  of  all  ages  engaged  in  this  work.  ISTow,  as  in  the  earliest 
times,  the  drawing  of  water  seems  to  be  one  of  their  regular  employments ; 
they  are  trained  to  it  from  their  earliest  years,  and  thus  gain  the  strength  and 
dexterity  we  have  often  noticed.  We  saw  this  morning  little  girls  six  or  seven 
years  old,  who  had  small  jars  containing  not  more  than  a gallon.  They  were 
of  the  same  shape  and  were  managed  precisely  in  the  same  way  as  the  others. 
The  older  girls  had  larger  jars,  and  those  of  the  women  must  have  held  at  least 
six  or  seven  gallons.  Yet  they  were  raised  and  carried  with  apparent  ease ; 
daily  use  from  childhood  enabling  them  to  perform  what  otherwise  would  be  no 
small  effort  for  a strong-bodied  man. 

The  wind  springing  up,  we  got  on  board  again  and  made  sail,  and  were 
very  glad  to  find  a hearty  breakfast  prepared  for  us.  We  have  both  realized 
what  our  dragoman  predicted,  that  our  appetites  would  become  much  sharper 
after  we  had  embarked  upon  the  Nile.  This,  I believe,  is  the  experience  of  all 
voyagers  on  these  waters. 

Having  to  be  housekeepers  to  all  intents,  and  to  depend  upon  ourselves  for 
every  comfort,  we  this  morning  gave  orders  concerning  our  washing,  as  the  day 
proved  favorable  for  it.  The  washerman  was  set  to  work,  and  our  clothes  are 
now  hanging  out  to  dry.  How  successful  we  have  been  in  our  first  experiment, 
we  shall  be  better  able  to  tell  when  the  starching  and  ironing  are  finished. 

After  sailing  awhile  with  a fair  wind,  a bend  in  the  river  required  us  to  tow 


88 


THE  TROCHILUS  AND  THE  CROCODILE. 


for  a distance.  We  took  our  guns  again,  and  I shot  a fine-looking  bird  which 
the  sailors  called  a seelcsah.  Its  plumage  is  beautifully  arranged  in  colors  of 
brown,  black  and  white.  Its  crest,  breast,  and  the  large  feathers  of  the  wings, 
are  of  a crow-black  ; and  its  back  of  a variegated  brown,  with  a brilliant  white 
between  these  colors  in  well  defined  lines.  But  its  great  peculiarity  is  a strong, 
sharp,  thorn-like  substance  at  the  end  of  the  main  joint  of  the  wing,  and  stick- 
ing out  from  it  like  a horn.  I had  been  curious  to  see  this  bird,  from  the 
strange  story  which  the  Arabs  tell  concerning  its  habits.  They  say  that  it  is  a 
special  friend  of  the  crocodile,  keeping  near  and  watching  to  give  notice  of  the 
approach  of  danger  by  a sharp  cry,  when  the  animal  comes  out  of  the  river  to 
sun  itself  and  sleep  upon  the  bank.  But  they  say  it  performs  another  and 
more  remarkable  office.  The  crocodile  is  tormented  by  leeches,  which  some- 
times creep  into  his  mouth  and  fasten  themselves  upon  the  sides  of  his  throat. 
While  he  lies  upon  shore  with  his  mouth  open,  the  seeksak  hops  in  and  devours 
the  leeches.  But  occasionally  the  crocodile  closes  his  mouth  prematurely, 
imprisoning  his  friend,  when  the  latter  raises  his  sharp-pointed  wings  and 
reminds  the  crocodile  to  open  his  mouth  and  set  him  at  liberty.  Such  is  the 
Arab  story.  How  true  it  may  be,  I,  of  course,  cannot  say.  But  this  bird,  with 
apparently  good  reason,  is  supposed  to  be  the  same  of  which  Herodotus  speaks 
in  his  account  of  the  crocodile.  No  doubt  the  Egyptians  of  that  day  gave  the 
father  of  history  the  same  relation  which  we  now  heard  ; for  he  says,  “ When 
the  crocodile  leaves  the  water,  it  reclines  itself  upon  the  mud,  and  generally 
towards  the  west,  with  its  mouth  open : the  trochilus  entering  its  throat  destroys 
the  leeches,  in  acknowledgment  for  which  service  it  never  does  the  trochilus 
injury.”  Euterpe,  s.  68.  It  is  said  that  the  crocodile  is  rarely  seen  on  the  shore 
unaccompanied  by  one  or  more  of  these  birds,  which  go  up  to  him  without  fear, 
and  are  never  injured  by  him. 

In  the  afternoon  we  had  another  walk  on  shore,  but  saw  no  game.  A king- 
fisher came  repeatedly  within  shot  while  pursuing  his  sport,  or  rather  his  regular 
occupation,  but  his  poetical  name,  halcyon,  saved  him. 

This  afternoon  we  came  in  sight  of  a range  of  works,  coming  down  to  the 
water’s  edge  upon  the  left,  and  reminding  us  at  first  of  the  palisades  upon  the 


GEBEL  ET  TAIR. — COPTIC  CONVENT. 


89 


North  River.  Upon  drawing  nearer,  however,  their  appearance  changed,  pre- 
senting horizontal  strata  instead  of  columnar  blocks.  It  is  part  of  the  same  great 
range  which  has  been  in  sight  since  we  left  Cairo.  The  rocks  were  sand- 
colored,  but  stained  in  many  places,  and  indented  with  caverns.  At  one  point, 
high  in  the  air,  rose  a natural  bridge,  showing  its  arch  clearly  against  the  sky. 
Besides  these  indentations  of  nature,  there  were  others  obviously  artificial, 
which  may  have  been  sepulchral  caves.  At  one  point,  where  a convent,  a rude 
structure,  crowns  the  height,  there  were  flights  of  steps  cut  in  the  rock.  This 
range  is  called  by  the  Arabs  Gebel  et  Tair,  or  “ Mountain  of  Birds.”  The 
origin  of  the  name  was  obvious  enough,  for  there  were  thousands  of  ducks 
wheeling  about  the  precipice,  and  sitting  in  black  lines  along  the  crevices.  Sir 
Gr.  Wilkinson  states  that  there  is  a legendary  tale  connected  with  this  mountain. 
All  the  birds  of  the  country  are  said  to  assemble  here  annually,  and  having 
selected  one  of  their  number  to  remain  until  the  following  year,  they  fly  away 
into  the  interior,  and  return  to  release  their  sentinel  and  supply  another  in  his 
place.  This  certainly  could  not  have  been  the  period  of  the  annual  meeting, 
for  we  have  seen  thousands  and  thousands  in  other  parts  of  the  river,  and  if 
the  watch-bird  was  here,  he  must  have  had  no  solitary  time  of  it,  as  there  were 
multitudes  of  companions.  All  the  birds  were  of  one  species,  a black  duck 
with  white  spots  upon  the  neck  and  wings. 

The  convent  is  called  Sitteh  Marian  el  Adra,  or  Our  Lady  Mary  the  Yirgin. 
It  belongs  to  the  Coptic  Christians,  and  we  here  saw  a sight  not  very  gratifying 
to  us  as  Christians,  and  not  calculated  to  increase  respect  for  the  name  amongst 
the  Mohammedans.  We  had  noticed  for  some  time  two  men  in  long  dark 
garments,  hailing  us  from  the  opposite  shore  ; and  we  were  told  it  was  custom- 
ary for  the  monks  to  ask  charity  from  boats  ascending  the  river,  calling  out 
“Ama  Christian  ya  Hawagee,”  i.  e.  Alms,  gentlemen,  for  the  Christian,  long 
before  the  boats  come  up,  and  often  swimming  out  when  the  boats  do  not  come 
to.  The  monk  called  upon  us  to  stop ; but  as  we  had  a fair  wind  and  the  rais 
was  not  disposed  to  do  so,  he  told  the  man  to  go  up  the  stream  and  swim  off. 
In  a twinkling  he  dropped  his  garment,  ran  off  naked  a good  distance  ahead, 
and  then  plunged  in,  swimming  most  stoutly  hand  over  hand,  as  they  do  when 


12 


90 


AMPHIBIOUS  BEGGAR  MONK. 


they  breast  the  stream.  He  reached  the  boat,  climbed  up  the  side,  and  held  on. 
His  skin  was  as  dark  as  the  skins  of  our  crew.  He  was  like  a very  dark 
mulatto  with  a shaven  head.  The  money  that  we  gave  him  he  put  into  his 
mouth.  Our  dragoman  threw  him  a white  head-cap,  which  he  makes  it  a cus- 
tom to  bestow  when  passing.  The  man,  like  a sturdy  beggar,  was  asking  for 
more,  when  one  of  the  crew  pushed  him  off  into  the  river.  He  then  got  hold 
of  the  small  boat,  which  was  towing  behind,  and  they  would  have  pushed  him 
away  from  there  had  not  my  friend  interfered.  He  soon  dropped  off  and  swam 
away,  with  the  money  still  in  his  mouth,  and  holding  up  the  cap  in  one  hand  to 
keep  it  out  of  the  water.  Thus  he  was  swimming  and  making  good  progress 
to  the  opposite  shore,  whence  he  came,  as  long  as  we  could  see  him.  The  river 
at  this  place  was  at  least  a quarter  of  a mile  wide,  the  current  running  from 
two  to  three  miles  an  hour.  But  all  the  men  upon  the  Nile  seem  to  be  most 
powerful  swimmers,  being  constantly  used  to  the  water  at  all  seasons  of  the 
year  from  their  earliest  childhood. 

We  passed  Minieh  at  night,  a favorable  wind  carrying  us  along  at  a good 
rate. 

Feb.  21st. — This  morning  at  sunrise  we  were  at  anchor,  the  wind  having 
died  away  in  the  course  of  the  night.  It  is  well,  however,  for  the  crew,  and 
especially  for  the  rais  and  pilot,  to  have  some  rest,  as  there  is  no  relief  for  them 
by  watches  when  the  boat  is  under  way.  The  crew,  indeed,  except  those  who 
tend  the  sheets,  may  sleep  at  night,  when  the  wind  is  fair,  but  the  rais  and 
pilot  can  never  leave  their  posts.  This  morning  we  had  to  resort  to  the  poles 
and  rope  again,  until  towards  ten  o’clock,  when  the  wind  sprung  up  favorably. 
While  the  vessel  was  towing,  we  saw  some  ducks  upon  the  bank,  and  went  on 
shore  after  them,  but  they  would  not  await  our  approach. 

Our  dragoman  undertook  to  iron  the  clothes  this  morning,  but  I found  that 
he  knew  nothing  about  the  matter,  or  else  was  too  idle  to  attend  to  it  properly. 
Instead  of  starching  the  collars,  he  had  merely  passed  the  iron  over  them  when 
dry,  so  that  they  were  as  rough  as  when  they  came  out  of  the  washing  tub.  I 
began  to  instruct  him  as  well  as  I could.  I remembered  that  clothes  must  be 
sprinkled  or  made  damp  before  ironing,  and  that  collars  ought  to  be  starched. 


SHIFTLESS  ARABS. — RAISING  WATER. 


91 


So  I set  myself  about  it,  and  starched  and  ironed  to  show  him  how,  and  for  a first 
attempt  I flattered  myself  that  I got  through  pretty  well.  The  Arabs  are  a 
shiftless  set.  In  almost  every  thing  that  they  undertake  we  can  show  them  a 
better  way,  which  they  acknowledge  at  the  moment ; but  when  they  are  to  do 
the  same  thing  again  they  go  to  work  in  their  old  fashion,  so  that  there  is  little 
satisfaction  in  teaching  them.  For  all  the  little  changes  and  fixtures  that  I 
needed  in  my  cabin,  I had  to  use  the  saw,  the  hammer  and  the  chisel,  myself ; 
for  I had  no  patience  to  stand  by  and  see  the  dragoman’s  clumsy  attempts. 

A little  before  twelve  o’clock  we  came  in  sight  of  Benihassan,  and  saw,  in 
the  lofty  rocks,  the  excavations  which  we  are  to  visit  on  our  return,  as  they  are 
said  to  be  very  interesting,  and  even  more  ancient  than  the  tombs  at  Thebes. 
On  the  opposite  bank  of  the  river  we  saw  the  people  raising  water  by  hand  for 
irrigating  the  land.  It  is  simple  enough,  but  must  be  somewhat  laborious.  A 
little  hollow,  shaped  like  a well,  is  dug  in  the  bank,  on  a level  with  the  river. 
Into  this  descends  a bowl-shaped  bucket,  made  of  skin,  and  this  is  attached  to  a 
pole  secured  by  a pivot  into  an  upright  forked  post,  like  a common  New  Eng- 
land country  well  of  the  old  time.  The  water  is  thus  raised  to  a reservoir 
above,  from  which  another  bucket  carries  it  to  a third,  until  it  is  elevated  to 
the  top  of  the  bank.  Where  the  banl^  is  higher,  of  course  more  buckets  and 
reservoirs  are  needed.  There  was  a large  number  of  these  contrivances  at  work 
in  this  portion  of  the  river. 

The  village  of  Benihassan  was  formerly  inhabited  by  an  incorrigible  set  of 
robbers,  and  for  this  reason  was  destroyed  some  twenty-five  years  ago  by  Ibra- 
him Pasha.  It  now  presents  only  an  appearance  of  roofless  houses,  with  the 
walls  broken  down.  About  three  o’clock  we  passed  Er  Bhamaroon,  where 
there  is  an  extensive  sugar  refinery,  established  by  Mehemet  Ali.  The  preju- 
dices of  the  Mohammedans  are  such  that  the  blood  of  bullocks  is  not  used  in 
the  process,  but  milk  and  eggs  are  substituted,  which  do  not  answer  so  well. 
My  impression  is  that  in  New- York  sugar  is  not  refined  with  blood,  but  by 
some  other  process.  If  so,  it  would  be  a valuable  improvement  here ; but 
innovations,  however  excellent,  work  their  way  slowly  in  this  country. 

The  day  has  been  very  delightful,  the  air  pure  and  invigorating,  and  warmer 


92 


SLEEPING  ON  WATCH. — A DELICIOUS  CLIMATE. 


than  we  have  had  for  some  time  past.  We  are  now  in  the  region  of  the  croco- 
diles, but  have  seen  none  as  yet.  At  ten  o’clock  to-night  the  wind  died  away, 
and  we  are  now  at  anchor  in  the  stream. 

Feb.  22 d. — Last  night  very  late,  or  early  before  daybreak  this  morning,  I 
was  aroused  by  a great  noise  on  deck,  over  my  head,  and  in  a short  time  the 
boat  set  sail.  I found  that  the  watch,  having  probably  fallen  asleep  at  his  post, 
had  neglected  to  inform  the  rais  that  a breeze  had  sprung  up.  The  rais,  how- 
ever, awoke,  and  was  exceedingly  angry  with  the  man  and  gave  him  a good 
flogging,  which  he  deserved,  and  was  on  the  point  of  throwing  another  of  the 
men  overboard.  We  lost  about  half  an  hour’s  wind  by. the  neglect,  and  as  we 
begin  to  be  short  of  bread  for  the  crew,  this  was  considered  by  the  rais  as  no 
light  offence.  But  at  sunrise  the  wind  died  away,  and  the  towing  gave  me  a 
chance  for  a walk  upon  the  shore.  Not  a breeze  was  stirring,  the  temperature 
of  the  air  was  perfectly  delicious,  and  the  broad  river  gave  back  a perfect 
reflection  of  the  banks,  especially  of  the  hills  that  on  the  left  come  down  near 
to  the  water.  I walked  along  for  some  distance,  enjoying  the  whole  scene 
greatly.  Passing  by  a large  field  of  beans  in  blossom,  and  another  of  wheat  in 
the  ear,  the  fragrance  was  very  grateful,  while  the  birds  all  around  me  were 
chirping  and  singing.  I noticed  the  first  swallows  I have  seen  in  Egypt.  The 
morning  was  so  summer-like  that  they  were  in  full  activity,  and  reminded  me 
of  home.  Indeed  the  whole  day  seems  like  one  of  our  most  perfect  summer 
days,  and  the  heat  is  not  oppressive.  We  begin  to  realize  what  is  said  of  the 
delicious  climate  of  Upper  Egypt.  Such  a day  as  this  is  almost  enough  to 
make  a sick  man  well.  We  should  be  glad,  however,  of  a little  more  wind  to 
help  us  along,  and  relieve  our  crew  from  the  toil  of  dragging  the  boat. 

About  twelve  o’clock  a steamboat  hove  in  sight,  coming  down  the  river 
with  a barge  in  tow.  The  flags  of  the  Pasha  were  flying,  and  we  were  told 
that  a daughter  of  the  Pasha  was  on  board,  but  which  Pasha  we  did  not  learn. 
There  seemed  to  be  numerous  attendants,  and  by  the  crates  for  fowls,  vegeta- 
bles, &c.,  a plentiful  provision.  She  soon  left  us  and  sailed  rapidly  down  the 
stream. 

We  now  came  in  sight  of  the  precipitous  cliffs  Gebel  Aboofayder,  near  the 


ABOOFAYDER. — NILE  SCENERY. 


93 


base  of  which  the  river  runs.  They  are  composed  of  the  same  kind  of  rock 
that  we  have  seen  all  along  on  the  eastern  shore  of  the  river,  only  the  strata 
instead  of  being  perfectly  horizontal,  are  here  broken  into  wavy  lines.  They 
are  quite  picturesque,  and  in  one  place  a promontory  juts  out,  as  if  it  were  cut 
off  from  the  main  body  of  the  cliff,  and  takes  the  semblance  of  a human  head. 
With  a little  of  the  labor  bestowed  upon  the  ancient  monuments  of  Egypt,  it 
might  be  cut  into  a gigantic  Sphinx.  In  one  part  of  the  cliff  there  is  a series 
of  artificial  doorways,  with  square  columns  and  entablatures,  that  open  into 
caverns  which  are  said  to  contain  the  mummies  of  cats  and  dogs.  The  river 
here  takes  a bend,  and  the  navigation  is  thought  to  be  dangerous  on  account  of 
sudden  gusts  of  wind  that  blow  from  the  high  rock  directly  down  upon  the  river. 
We  sailed  by  in  safety,  with  a fine  breeze,  though  I noticed  that  the  wind  came 
in  flaws  while  we  were  under  the  rocks. 

We  passed  Manfaloot  this  afternoon,  a large  town  on  the  west  bank  of  the 
river.  Here  the  Nile  rapidly  encroaches  on  the  town,  and  all  efforts  to  prevent 
it  have  failed.  We  saw  a number  of  houses  that  had  been  undermined  and 
were  half  gone,  as  if  they  had  been  cut  in  two.  Unless  the  river  changes  its 
course,  the  town  must  be  destroyed  in  a few  years.  A short  distance  above 
this  town  we  noticed  the  process  by  which  its  gradual  destruction  is  accom- 
plished. Several  large  portions  of  the  bank,  the  foundation  having  been  pre- 
viously worn  away  by  the  current,  fell  into  the  stream  like  an  avalanche  and 
disappeared.  A little  farther  on  we  had  a view  of  one  of  the  most  beautiful 
minarets  we  have  seen.  It  rose  out  of  a fine  clump  of  palm-trees,  surrounded 
by  fields  in  full  verdure.  The  mountains,  the  river,  and  this  picturesque  village, 
formed  a very  striking  landscape.  Indeed,  we  constantly  arrive  at  points  which 
present  us  very  delightful  views,  all  the  more  striking  from  their  novelty  to  a 
western  eye.  The  few  and  simple  elements  that  constitute  the  scenery  of  the 
Nile,  might  lead  one  to  expect  a tiresome  sameness.  The  river,  the  fields,  the 
rocky  hills  and  the  palm-trees,  are  all.  But  these  are  so  constantly  varied ; 
the  river  now  spreading  out  into  a broad  sheet,  like  a lake,  now  contracted  into 
a narrow  space,  and  running  with  the  swiftness  of  a mill-stream,  and  again 
divided  by  islands  and  bars ; the  hills,  now  stretching  away  into  the  far  distance, 


94 


OSIOOT. — COMPETITION. 


and  now  coming  boldly  up  to  the  very  border  of  the  stream,  occasionally 
pierced  with  grottoes  and  caverns,  and  sometimes  presenting  all  manner  of 
fantastic  shapes,  pyramids,  castles  and  ruins ; the  palm-trees,  here  like  a broad 
forest,  and  there  dispersed  into  beautiful  clumps;  the  fields  green  with  the 
springing  wheat,  or  fragrant  with  the  blossoms  of  the  bean ; the  water-buckets 
upon  the  banks,  and  the  active  husbandmen  engaged  in  this  novel  species  of 
irrigation  ; add  to  these  the  numerous  boats  passing  up  or  down,  their  latteen 
sails  giving  them  the  appearance  of  mighty  birds  upon  the  water  and  just  ready 
to  spring  into  the  air:  the  ever  varying  combination  of  these  few  elements 
gives  the  landscape  an  untiring  freshness  and  interest. 

Feb.  23 d. — Reaching  a point  where  the  river  makes  a horse-shoe  bend,  we 
this  morning  early  sent  Achmet,  our  dragoman,  with  two  of  the  crew,  overland 
to  Osioot,  to  make  arrangements  for  such  purchases  as  are  needed  for  the  crew 
and  ourselves,  in  order  that  we  may  not  be  detained  on  arriving  there  with  the 
boat.  We  took  the  opportunity  of  sending  off  our  letters  to  the  post-office,  to 
be  forwarded  from  Osioot  to  Rome,  by  the  way  of  Cairo.  There  was  no  wind 
until  noon,  and  having  to  track  and  pole  the  boat,  we  made  but  little  progress. 
We  could  see  the  minarets  of  Osioot  overland,  and  we  have  to  go  apparently  a 
long  distance  from  it  before  we  can  shape  our  course  thither  again,  on  account 
of  the  winding  of  the  river.  Here  I saw  several  pelicans  floating  upon  the 
water.  I could  notice  distinctly,  under  their  immense  beaks,  the  membrane  or 
bag,  a receptacle  for  the  fish  they  catch  to  carry  to  their  nests.  Upon  our 
approach  they  rose  heavily  from  the  surface  and  flew  away.  They  were  as 
large  as  swans.  When  the  wind  rose  it  was  very  light,  and  we  did  not  reach 
Osioot  until  about  two  o’clock.  As  we  approached  the  shore  where  the  boats 
are  moored,  we  saw  one  pushing  away  and  making  sail.  It  proved  to  be  that 
of  our  English  acquaintances,  Captain  Neil  and  his  friend,  who  had  thus  far 
kept  the  lead  of  us.  They  arrived  yesterday,  and  as  there  has  been  some  little 
competition,  they  hurried  away  when  they  saw  us  coming.  When  we  reached 
the  shore  we  found  that  Achmet  had  bought  all  that  was  needful  and  had  it 
ready  to  be  put  on  board  at  once.  For  two  or  three  minutes  there  was  quite  a 
display  of  amusing  activity,  the  crew,  the  donkey  boys  who  had  brought  the 


APATHY  IN  TRADE. — THE  EVIL  EYE. 


95 


stores  from  Osioot;  and  the  women  who  had  sold  the  bread,  all  entering  into 
the  spirit  of  the  moment.  Our  provisions  were  quickly  on  board,  and  without 
even  passing  a rope  to  the  shore  we  were  off  again  and  under  sail.  The  boys 
and  women,  who  had  been  liberally  paid  for  their  services,  all  joined  in  cheering 
us  and  wishing  us  a prosperous  voyage.  The  crew,  too,  who  had  been  on  short 
commons  for  the  last  twenty-four  hours,  were  in  high  spirits  at  the  prospect  of 
a good  meal,  and  the  poor  fellows  handled  the  sails  with  the  utmost  activity,  so 
that  we  were  soon  upon  the  track  of  our  English  friends.  The  other  American 
boat,  Mr.  Crosby’s,  and  the  English  boat,  Mrs.  Guthrie’s,  are  out  of  sight  behind 
us,  and  probably  will  not  now  overtake  us  until  we  reach  Thebes.  This  port 
of  Osioot  is  the  usual  place  for  supplying  bread  to  the  crews  of  boats  on  the 
river,  and  there  are  several  large  ovens  here  which  bake  it  for  that  purpose. 
The  coarse  bread  used  by  the  seamen  is  baked  in  loaves,  and  then  cut  up  into 
junks  and  suffered  to  dry.  A supply  which  lasts  to  Osioot  is  usually  laid  in  at 
Cairo.  Then  there  is  commonly  a detention  of  twenty-four  hours,  as  the  wheat 
has  to  be  bought,  cleaned,  ground  and  baked  for  each  boat.  Why  there  is  not 
some  system  of  general  supply,  so  that  boats  may  be  provided  at  once,  I cannot 
ascertain.  It  would  seem  that  the  ordinary  stimulus  of  trade  must  produce 
such  arrangements.  But  there  is  very  little  enterprise  here,  and  a strong 
disposition  to  do  precisely  what  their  fathers  have  done  before  them  and  no 
more.  If  any  one  were  to  undertake  keeping  a supply  of  ready  made  bread 
for  sale,  he  would  be  in  danger  of  making  a losing  business  of  it.  Our  drago- 
man could  buy  no  proper  bread,  that  is,  such  as  will  keep,  and  therefore 
obtained  a supply  of  the  ordinary  cakes  used  by  the  people  of  the  country. 
These  will  be  good  for  a couple  of  days.  We  have  thus  avoided  the  usual 
detention,  and  twenty -four  hours  will  be  a great  gain  to  us. 

I have  just  seen  a notable  instance  of  Arab  superstition.  A little  while  ago, 
by  some  sudden  flaw  of  wind,  one  of  the  sails  was  taken  aback,  which  occasioned 
some  confusion  for  a moment,  and  a loss  of  speed.  This  was  attributed  to  the 
evil  eye,  some  one,  perhaps,  in  the  boat  ahead,  having  looked  at  us  enviously. 
In  order  to  do  away  the  effect,  the  rais  with  his  left  hand  sticks  a knife  into 
the  foremast.  Our  dragoman  called  my  attention  to  the  circumstance,  and  gave 


96 


MUTUAL  PROTECTION. — THE  FIRST  CROCODILE. 


me  the  explanation.  This  superstition  in  regard  to  the  evil  eye  is  very  strong 
and  prevalent.  When  strangers,  or  even  friends,  gaze  too  earnestly  upon  chil- 
dren, their  parents  object  to  it,  fearing  some  evil  consequence.  The  superstition 
is  classic  as  well  as  Egyptian.  Theocritus  says  that  a beautiful  woman  gazed 
upon  by  a stranger,  t pt?  el?  eov  iinvae  koXitov,  spat  thrice  into  her  bosom  to  do 
away  with  the  evil  effect.  I was  told  that  the  custom  is  common  amongst 
the  Turks,  and  I believe  that  it  exists  yet  amongst  the  Greeks  for  the  mother  to 
spit  upon  her  child  when  it  is  praised  or  admired,  to  counteract  the  evil  eye. 

This  afternoon  we  overtook  the  boat  of  our  English  friends,  and  shot  ahead 
of  them.  At  sundown  the  wind  lulled  as  usual,  and  we  came  to  anchor.  After 
tea  we  heard  the  boat  we  had  passed  coming  up  with  us  by  poling,  and  our  rais 
and  crew  thinking  that  they  intended  to  pass  us,  by  working  all  night,  became 
quite  excited,  and  were  determined  to  weigh  anchor  and  go  to  work  too.  We 
found,  however,  that  their  object  was  only  to  be  near  us  for  safety.  As  they 
had  no  anchor,  they  could  not  remain  in  the  stream,  but  were  obliged  to  moor 
the  boat  to  the  shore,  and  there  being  no  village  near,  they  thought  they  might 
be  in  danger  of  an  attack  from  the  Fellahs.  In  the  villages  there  is  always  a 
watch  provided,  and  the  Shiek  is  responsible  for  the  safety  of  boats  that  lie 
there.  The  rais  of  the  other  boat  hailed  us,  and  requested  our  rais  to  come 
near  to  the  shore,  for  his  protection,  which  we  did.  My  friend  and  I then  went 
on  board  their  boat  and  passed  a very  pleasant  hour  in  conversation  with  our 
new  acquaintances,  Captain  Niel  of  the  British  army  and  Mr.  Dennison,  whom 
we  have  found  to  be  intelligent  and  agreeable  men.  We  have  invited  them  to 
dine  with  us  to-morrow,  should  we  be  together  when  we  come  to  anchor  for  the 
evening. 

Feb.  24:th. — This  morning  we  had  but  just  begun  to  tow  the  boat,  when  the 
wind  sprung  up  fair  and  we  made  sail.  It  soon  increased  to  a heavy  blow,  so 
that  we  were  obliged  to  shorten  sail,  making  all  the  time,  however,  very  good 
headway.  I was  called  out  of  the  cabin  to  see  a crocodile,  for  the  first  time  in 
my  life.  It  was  quite  a large  one,  and  lay  asleep  upon  a sand-bank.  By  one 
not  accustomed  to  the  sight,  it  might  have  been  easily  mistaken  for  a log  of 
wood,  or  a ridge  of  dirt  upon  the  sand.  With  the  glass,  however,  I could 


THE  RAIS  AND  CREW. — DANGEROUS  PASS. 


97 


plainly  discover  its  head,  legs  and  tail.  We  made  a noise,  but  it  was  too  sonnd 
asleep,  or  we  were  too  far  off  to  disturb  it. 

The  turns  in  the  river  required  us  to  change  sail  frequently,  sometimes 
being  full  before  the  wind  and  sometimes  close  hauled.  In  effecting  these 
manoeuvres  the  Arab  sailors,  as  it  seemed  to  us,  managed  most  clumsily.  There 
is  no  order  amongst  them,  all  talking  and  hallooing  out  together  what  is  to  be 
done,  each  man  expressing  his  opinion  as  to  when  the  ropes  should  be  slackened 
or  hauled  taut.  The  authority  of  the  rais  is  indeed  absolute  ; for  he  can  flog  a 
man  or  toss  him  overboard,  as  we  have  seen ; and  this  morning  when  one  of 
the  men  aloft  did  not  obey  orders  to  his  mind,  he  picked  up  a large  stone  from 
the  deck  and  threw  it  at  him.  Still,  in  other  respects,  the  men  treat  him  with 
no  deference,  but  all  halloo  out  while  he  is  giving  the  word  of  command,  and 
call  from  one  end  of  the  boat  to  the  other,  as  lustily  as  he  does.  And  when 
we  are  within  hail  of  another  boat,  any  one  hails  and  asks  such  questions  as  he 
chooses.  Such  discipline  on  board  one  of  our  vessels  could  not  last  an  hour. 

We  have  had  a fair  wind  all  day,  and  part  of  the  time  it  has  been  almost  a 
gale.  We  had  to  tow  a short  distance  through  a bend  in  the  river,  and  here 
our  English  companions  passed  us,  and  we  supposed  they  would  be  so  far  ahead 
of  us  that  we  should  not  see  them  at  dinner  time.  We  overtook  them,  however, 
for  they  had  carried  away  the  yard  of  one  of  the  sails,  and  were  obliged  to 
make  for  the  bank  of  the  river  and  stop  to  mend  the  rigging.  We  now  shot 
by  them,  and  the  wind  being  favorable  and  very  strong,  we  soon  ran  them  out 
of  sight,  and  as  they  may  be  detained  an  hour  or  two  we  shall  not  see  them 
again  to-day,  and  probably  not  before  our  arrival  at  Thebes.  We  passed  this 
afternoon  Gebe-1  Shekh  Herridee,  a part  of  the  eastern  chain  of  hills  that  comes 
immediately  down  to  the  river’s  edge.  Before  coming  near  it  our  rais  shortened 
sail,  and,  being  but  a timid  mariner,  he  would  have  gone  under  bare  poles,  but 
for  our  earnest  expostulations.  We  persuaded  him,  with  some  difficulty,  to 
keep  up  his  foresail.  The  point  is  doubtless  quite  dangerous,  for  the  lofty  rocks, 
at  least  twice  as  high  as  the  palisades,  form  a perpendicular  mass  jutting  into 
the  river,  and  the  wind  sometimes  comes  over  in  heavy  gusts,  which  might 
capsize  a boat.  We  got  through  safely,  but  after  we  had  sailed  about  a mile 


13 


98 


AMPHITHEATRE  OF  HILLS. — CLEAR  SKY. 

farther,  the  rais  called  us  from  the  cabin,  and  with  earnest  gesticulations  and  a 
good  many  words  that  we  could  not  understand,  pointed  back  to  the  place. 
There  was  a cloud  of  sand  flying  about  with  great  violence,  indicating  one  of 
those  sudden  squalls ; and  we  understood  him  to  say  that  he  feared  lest  we 
should  encounter  such  an  one ; and  as  it  might  strike  us  in  any  direction,  and 
perhaps  take  us  aback,  he  wished  on  this  account  to  shorten  sail.  He  looked 
very  triumphant,  as  though  his  judgment  had  been  correct.  We  might  have 
thought  so  too,  had  he  not  on  repeated  occasions  manifested  so  much  timidity. 
He  afterwards  said  to  our  dragoman  that  he  did  not  fear  for  himself,  but  for  us, 
and  it  seemed  to  him  that  we  had  very  little  apprehension  for  our  own  lives. 

After  passing  this  point  the  rocky  hills  retreat  and  form  an  immense 
amphitheatre,  inclosing  a large  tract  of  cultivated  land.  The  view  of  the  hills 
was  most  superb.  It  seemed  a far-stretching  and  perfect  bow,  the  river  running 
almost  straight  like  the  cord.  The  top  of  the  whole  chain  was  level,  but  the  face 
was  broken  into  recesses,  mounds  and  other  picturesque  shapes,  still  preserving, 
as  a whole,  the  circular  form.  We  passed  a number  of  villages,  embosomed  in 
groves  of  palms,  and  in  the  evening  came  into  the  vicinity  of  Ekhmim,  but  it 
was  too  dark  to  see  distinctly.  Here  the  wind  lulled  and  we  were  almost 
becalmed.  We  noticed,  as  we  had  often  done  before  when  in  the  neighborhood 
of  villages  in  the  evening,  the  excessive  barking  of  dogs.  It  seemed  as  though 
there  were  hundreds  upon  hundreds  of  these  animals.  The  people  do  not  kill 
nor  disturb  them ; they  do  not  belong  to  particular  masters,  but  run  at  large, 
and  get  their  living  as  they  can  from  dead  animals  and  the  offal  about  the  towns 
and  villages.  Like  the  turkey  buzzards  of  the  southern  cities,  they  perform 
the  office  of  scavengers.  Wherever  we  stop  in  the  evening  we  hear  this  inces- 
sant barking. 

The  sky  for  several  nights  past  has  been  exceedingly  beautiful,  not  a cloud 
to  be  seen,  scarcely  a breath  of  air  stirring,  the  stars  shining  with  uncommon 
brilliancy,  and  many  of  them,  especially  the  planets  Jupiter  and  Yenus,  appear- 
ing much  larger  than  with  us.  But  the  evenings  are  quite  cool,  and  far  south 
as  we  are,  and  warm  as  it  often  is,  when  the  sun  shines,  I find  that  we  require 
two  or  three  blankets  at  night. 


SLAVE  BOAT  AT  CIRCEH 


COPTS. — PIGEONS. — SLAVE  BOAT. 


99 


To-day  was  my  birthday ; and  my  thoughts  have  been  dwelling  almost 
unceasingly  upon  those  dearest  to  me,  and  upon  life,  its  duties  and  responsibili- 
ties, the  past  and  the  future ; upon  the  errors,  deficiencies  and  sins  of  years 
gone  by,  and  in  hopes  of  amendment,  not  without  many  supplications  for  grace 
to  effect  it.  Sit  Deus  adjutor  meus  per  Dominum  nostrum  Jesum  Christum. 

Feb.  2bth. — This  morning  when  we  rose  there  was  no  wind.  About  nine 
o’clock  our  English  friends  hove  in  sight  astern  of  us.  Having  repaired  the 
damage  done  to  their  sails,  they  had  had  a small  breeze  all  night,  while  we 
were  becalmed,  and  thus  were  enabled  to  come  up  with  us.  The  breeze  again 
springing  up,  we  were  soon  under  sail  together,  and  are  keeping  along  in  close 
company,  both  boats  having  about  the  same  speed. 

We  passed  this  morning  a Coptic  convent,  situated  on  a barren  mound  near 
the  shore.  It  looked  like  a square  mud  fort,  with  here  and  there  a small  loop- 
hole. I hope  to  be  able  to  learn  more  about  these  Coptic  Christians,  and  to 
get  a sight  of  one  of  their  convents.  From  all  that  I have  yet  seen  and  heard, 
they  do  little  honor  to  the  name  of  Christian. 

We  have  had  another  fine  amphitheatre  of  rocky  hills,  such  as  we  saw  yes- 
terday. Indeed  the  Eastern  side  all  along  has  exhibited  a varied  and  striking 
succession  of  rocky  scenery.  On  the  Western  shore  we  passed  Minshieh,  a 
considerable  village,  which  at  a distance  had  a castellated  appearance,  but  upon 
coming  nearer  we  found  this  was  occasioned  by  nothing  but  a number  of  square 
turret-like  pigeon-houses.  All  the  villages  are  well  supplied  with  these,  and 
we  see  large  flocks  of  both  tame  and  wild  pigeons.  After  passing  Minshieh  we 
retired  to  our  cabin,  and  had  the  satisfaction  of  reading  the  Church  service 
together,  remembering  our  absent  families  in  our  prayers. 

We  have  just  passed  a boat  going  down  the  river  filled  with  slaves  for  the 
Cairo  market.  They  were  mostly  young  boys  and  girls,  and  seemed  to  be  in 
great  glee,  laughing  heartily  and  showing  their  white  teeth.  They  were  quite 
black,  and  doubtless  were  Nubians.  We  have  heard  that  their  condition,  gen- 
erally speaking,  is  much  bettered,  and  perhaps  it  may  be  so  when  they  fall  into 
the  hands  of  kind  masters.  We  have  seen  these  Nubian  slaves  in  Cairo,  in  the 
shops  of  their  owners,  and  they  appeared  to  us  well-dressed,  well  treated,  and 


100 


DIFFICULTIES  OF  NAVIGATION. 


apparently  contented.  This  is  usually  the  case  in  Cairo.  But  we  heard  enough 
concerning  the  system  to  be  convinced  that  notwithstanding  these  mitigating 
circumstances,  it  deserves  all  the  reprobation  which  we  are  accustomed  to 
bestow  upon  it. 

About  one  o’clock  we  passed  Girgeh,  quite  a large  place  and  once  the  capital 
of  Upper  Egypt.  We  counted  six  tall  minarets,  and  understand  there  is  a very 
extensive  bazaar  there,  where  almost  every  thing  may  be  purchased.  But  the 
wind  blew  very  fair  and  strong,  and  we  were  not  disposed  to  arrest  our  progress, 
which,  however,  in  the  afternoon  was  somewhat  checked.  Coming  to  a wide 
part  of  the  river,  the  two  boats,  our  English  companion  and  ourselves,  took  the 
wrong  side,  that  is,  the  side  where  the  water  was  shallow,  the  channel  being 
near  the  opposite  bank.  The  English  boat  got  ashore,  but  being  much  lighter 
than  ours  was  soon  got  off  and  found  the  channel.  But  to  do  this,  we  were 
obliged  to  take  in  sail  and  push  the  boat  back  in  the  teeth  of  the  wind  in  order 
to  go  round  the  point  of  a shoal.  This  occupied  some  time,  and  when  we  had 
succeeded  we  had  not  gone  many  miles  before  we  met  with  the  same  mishap 
again.  Meantime  our  English  friends  are  far  out  of  sight,  and  we  shall  be  pre- 
vented from  dining  with  them  to-day,  as  we  had  engaged  to  do  in  case  we 
should  be  near  each  other,  just  as  they  were  yesterday  prevented  from  dining 
with  us.  These  accidents  make  it  difficult  and  almost  impossible  for  two  boats 
to  keep  company  on  the  Nile,  if  they  have  any  wish  to  get  on  rapidly.  The 
channel  of  the  river  is  constantly  changing,  and  even  a month  turns  it  in  some 
places  into  a different  course.  In  the  mean  time  the  volume  of  the  water  daily 
diminishes,  there  are  numerous  shallows  and  sand-bars,  and  the  water  is  so 
muddy  that  they  cannot  always  be  seen.  Consequently  your  striking  upon 
them  is  the  first  notice  that  you  have  of  their  existence.  To  avoid  these  shal- 
lows, wherever  there  is  a suspicious  looking  place,  or  a channel  known  to  be 
shifting,  one  man,  and  sometimes  two,  are  kept  constantly  upon  the  look-out, 
sounding  with  poles.  Soon  after  sundown  the  wind  lulled  as  usual,  and  we 
came  to  anchor  about  eight  o’clock  ; but  in  the  evening  a gentle  breeze  sprung 
up,  and  we  got  under  way  again,  and  now  at  midnight  are  going  at  a very  good 


•with  the  Dom  and  Date  palms . 


THE  DATE  AND  DOUM  PALMS. 


101 


rate,  but  we  shall  hardly  overtake  our  English*  friends,  unless  we  are  as  fortu- 
nate as  they  were  in  making  up  their  day’s  loss. 

Feb.  2§th. — This  morning,  contrary  to  our  expectation,  we  passed  our  English 
friends  a little  before  sunrise.  Their  boat  was  tied  to  the  bank  of  the  river, 
and  thinking  something  might  be  the  matter,  we  hailed  them ; but  as  they 
seemed  to  be  in  no  want  of  assistance,  we  sailed  on.  A little  distance  before 
coming  to  Farshiout,  on  the  western  side,  the  bank  of  the  river  grew  very 
beautiful.  It  was  a gradual  slope  from  the  top  to  the  edge  of  the  water,  and 
quite  green  with  cultivation.  It  was  the  first  of  the  kind  we  have  seen,  the 
bank  when  low  being  a sandy  shore,  and  when  high  an  abrupt  precipice  of  dark 
colored  soil.  The  top  of  this  sloping  bank  was  covered  with  a thick  grove  of 
mingled  date  and  doum  palms.  We  had  seen  a few  straggling  trees  of  the 
latter,  but  could  never  distinguish  their  characteristic  forms  until  now.  The 
date  palm  rises  up  in  a single  stem,  with  a number  of  light  feathery  branches 
forming  the  head,  which  bend  gracefully  over,  or  sway  about  lightly  in  the 
wind.  The  body  of  the  tree  is  jagged,  and  appears  notched  about  in  somewhat 
irregular  circles.  This  arises  from  the  method  of  pruning ; for  the  branches 
are  constantly  cut  off  below  as  new  ones  shoot  out  from  the  head,  a process 
which  concentrates  the  sap  and  renders  the  tree  more  fruitful.  The  fruit  grows 
in  large  bunches  from  the  bottom  of  the  branches  which  spring  out  at  the  top. 
The  dates  are  an  important  article  of  food  to  the  whole  people. . 

The  doum  palm  differs  from  the  other  in  appearance,  the  single  stem,  at  a 
certain  height,  being  divided  into  two,  and  each  of  these  into  two  again,  and  so 
on.  Its  leaves  too  are  fan-shaped.  At  the  base  of  these,  as  in  the  other  palm, 
the  fruit  grows,  but  it  is  very  different  from  the  date.  This  tree  is  also  called 
the  Theban  palm,  because  it  is  confined  to  the  Thebaid,  and  not  found  in  Lower 
Egypt. 

At  Farshiout  we  saw  on  the  banks  of  the  river  a large  sugar  factory,  built 
by  Ibrahim  Pasha.  This  is  the  boundary  of  his  large  possessions,  which  extend 
from  the  neighborhood  of  Cairo  to  this  place.  The  sugar-cane  grows  extensively 
in  this  region,  and  we  saw  it  in  the  fields,  and  also  in  large  piles  after  it  had 


102 


OUR  SUCCESSFUL  VOYAGE. 


been  cut  and  prepared  by  trimn&ing  off  the  leaves  to  be  shipped  in  boats  and 
sent  to  the  factory. 

Towards  evening,  just  before  dark,  we  saw  several  crocodiles  on  a sand-bar. 
We  have  before  seen  only  one.  They  were  too  far  off  for  shot  to  take  effect, 
but  we  fired  blank  powder  to  frighten  them,  and  at  the  report  they  hastily 
tumbled  themselves  into  the  water.  They  are  very  timid,  and  it  is  difficult  to 
get  near  them.  In  the  evening,  after  dark,  we  passed  Keneh  and  Dendera, 
which  we  propose  to  visit  on  our  return.  We  have  made  good  progress  to-day, 
though  less  than  yesterday ; and  the  wind  continuing  favorable,  we  are  still 
going  upward  at  midnight. 

Feb.  27th. — We  gained  a great  deal  last  night,  and  on  awaking  this  morning 
were  not  far  from  Thebes.  The  wind  lulled  before  sunrise,  but  our  rais  and 
crew  were  in  such  spirits  in  consequence  of  their  success  in  having  beaten  all 
the  other  boats  that  left  Cairo  at  the  same  time  with  ourselves,  that  they  were 
towing  the  boat  with  unusual  energy  and  rapidity.  The  rais  himself  was  on 
shore  with  all  the  men,  except  the  steersman  and  one  man  to  keep  the  boat 
from  the  bank  with  a pole.  We  arrived  at  the  great  point  of  our  destination 
and  moored  early  upon  the  eastern  side  of  the  river ; and  thus  in  twelve  days 
after  leaving  old  Cairo  we  have  made  a voyage,  of  which  the  average  time  is 
twenty  days.  We  were  told  to  make  our  account  for  twenty  days,  and  one 
boat  arrived  just  after  us  which  has  been  twenty-six  days  on  the  way.  None 
of  our  companions  are  in  sight ; and  we  feel  ourselves  to  have  been  extremely 
favored.  Much  of  our  success  I attribute  to  the  energy  of  Mr.  Minturn,  who 
was  constantly  stimulating  the  men  to  exertion,  and  who  has  rewarded  them  so 
liberally  that  they  are  very  thankful  and  happy.  A mile  or  two  before  coming 
to  our  mooring  place,  the  wind  breezing  up  a little,  the  men  left  towing,  came 
on  board  and  set  sail.  They  then  took  their  dinner  and  pipes,  and  began  to 
sing.  Our  cook  performed  a most  singular  and  fantastic  dance,  taking  off  part 
of  his  clothes  in  the  progress  of  it,  and  making  the  most  curious  gestures  and 
grimaces ; but  there  was  nothing  indecent  in  this,  as  in  some  of  the  Arab 
dances. 


Birlcet  Habon. 


D.  Appleton  8c  C?  200,  Broadway,  New  York  . 


THE  SITE  OF  THEBES. 


103 


We  have  arrived  then  at  Thebes,  the  chief  object  of  our  visit  to  Egypt  and 
onr  voyage  np  the  Nile.  Its  ancient  plain,  once  covered  with  temples  and 
palaces  of  unsurpassed  extent  and  magnificence,  is  now  spread  out  around  us 
on  both  sides  of  the  river.  A more  noble  site  for  a great  inland  city,  the  world 
can  hardly  offer,  and  that  site  was  occupied  by  a city  the  wealthiest,  most  popu- 
lous and  most  richly  embellished  of  the  world.  The  description  of  Homer  is 
familiar  to  every  classical  reader,  and  the  name  at  once  recalls  his  epithet 
€/car6/j.7rvXoL,  the  “ hundred-gated.”  From,  each  of  these  hundred  gates, 
according  to  his  account,  two  hundred  war  chariots  could  at  once  be  sent  out  to 
repel  an  enemy ; and  the  circumference  of  its  walls  was  one  hundred  and  forty 
stadia  or  fourteen  geographical  miles.  The  most  active  imagination  will  in 
vain  attempt  to  picture  the  scene  upon  which  the  sun  here  must  once  have 
looked  down  — stately  edifices  crowding  the  banks  of  the  river  for  miles  on 
both  sides,  and  reaching  back  to  the  very  bases  of  the  distant  hills  in  lines  of  mas- 
sive walls  ; majestic  columns,  with  gigantic  statues  interposed,  and  tall  obelisks 
shooting  up  to  the  skies  ; and  the  river  bridged  over  with  thousands  of  boats 
working  their  difficult  way  in  passing  up  and  down  and  from  side  to  side  ; and 
the  constant  hum  of  a mighty  population.  Now  the  river  flows  along  silent 
and  sad,  and  scarcely  rippled  by  a prow ; it  is  bordered  only  by  banks  of  naked 
sand,  and  a few  mud- walled  villages.  The  eye  wanders  over  a wide  extent  of 
green  fields,  with  clumps  of  palms,  and  here  and  there  at  a distance  rise  up  the 
melancholy  ruins  that  remain  to  mark  the  site  of  glorious  Thebes.  Our  boat, 
with  two  or  three  other  of  the  same  kind  of  passenger  craft,  and  a few  of  the 
ordinary  Arab  trading  boats,  is  moored  to  the  eastern  bank,  close  to  the 
village  of  Luxor,  and  almost  within  the  shadow  of  its  once  gorgeous  temple. 
And  here  we  are,  thousands  of  miles  from  our  homes  in  the  active,  vigorous 


104 


VALLEY  OF  THE  TOMBS  OF  THE  KINGS. 


city  of  the  new  world,  to  contemplate  the  mighty  fallen  skeleton  of  the  most 
renowned  of  the  old. 

We  resolved  to  begin  onr  sight-seeing  at  once,  and  immediately  selected 
our  guides  from  a number  that  presented  themselves  on  our  arrival.  We  had 
to  take  different  men  for  the  antiquities  on  the  two  sides  of  the  river.  It  so 
happened  that  they  both  had  the  same  name,  Mohammed  Abdou  Ali ; but 
whether  this  was  in  both  cases  a real,  or  in  one  an  assumed  name,  we  could  not 
ascertain.  Both  were  highly  recommended  in  the  documents  which  they  had 
from  preceding  travellers. 

All  our  arrangements  were  soon  made,  and  having  decided  to  see  the  anti- 
quities upon  the  west  bank  in  the  first  place,  in  conformity  to  the  advice  of  Sir 
G.  Wilkinson,  we  took  our  small  boat  to  cross  the  river.  Arrived  at  the  other 
side,  we  were  assailed  by  a host  of  men,  rushing  into  the  water  with  horses  and 
donkeys,  and  surrounding  the  boat.  Having  made  our  selection,  we  left  the 
boat  and  set  off  upon  horses,  our  guide  mounted  upon  a donkey.  We  were 
followed  by  four  or  five  boys  with  water  jugs,  and  one  to  carry  our  luncheon. 
These,  with  the  three  owners  or  attendants  upon  our  animals,  made  quite  a 
cortege. 


TOMBS  OF  THE  KINGS. 

We  directed  our  march  first  to  the  Tombs  of  the  Kings.  After  going  down 
the  river  bank  some  little  distance,  we  crossed  the  cultivated  valley,  and  came 
to  the  foot  of  the  rocky  hills  that’  border  it.  Beginning  our  ascent  over  some 
irregular  mounds  of  sand  and  loose  stones,  we  were  assailed  by  the  barking  of 
a number  of  dogs,  which  belonged  to  a village,  if  it  could  be  so  called,  of  Arabs 
who  were  living  in  caves  and  pits  that  seemed  to  have  been  old  tombs.  The 
hills  before  us  were  apparently  eight  hundred  or  one  thousand  feet  high,  craggy 
and  precipitous,  without  a single  tree  or  a blade  of  grass  upon  them.  We  soon 
entered  a ravine,  like  the  bed  of  a mountain  torrent,  which,  on  the  few  occasions 
when  there  is  rain,  was  filled,  we  were  told,  with  water.  But  now  the  whole 


THE  GATES  OF  THE  KINGS. 


105 


appearance  of  it  was  as  dry  as  if  rain  had  never  fallen  upon  it.  This  ravine 
wound  through  rocky  hills  of  a yellow  or  sand  color,  and  of  a conglomerate  or 
pudding-stone  formation.  For  more  than  an  hour  we  continued  our  winding 
ascent,  the  broken  precipices  coming  nearer  and  nearer,  until  at  every  turn  we 
seemed  to  be  shut  in  by  them.  The  rocks  wore  various  fantastic  shapes,  and  at 
last  a hill  rose  before  us  with  a summit  shaped  like  a pyramid,  marking  its 
sharp  outline  upon  the  blue  sky,  and  standing,  an  awful  sentinel,  by  the 
“ Gates  of  the  Kings,”  or  “ Biban  el  Melook,  ” as  this  valley  is  called. 
Here,  far  away  from  any  human  habitation,  in  the  midst  of  the  silent  and 
eternal  solitudes  of  the  desert,  without  so  much  as  a sound  from  a beast 
or  a bird,  or  even  an  insect,  where  no  blade  of  grass  can  vegetate,  the 
kings  of  the  earth,  in  a kind  of  sublime  mockery,  seem  to  have  chosen 
their  final  homes,  and  to  have  built  up  “ desolate  places  ” for  themselves. 
The  ruins  all  around,  the  heaps  of  small  fragments,  which  had  been  hewn  out 
of  the  rocks,  the  white  and  compact  limestone  of  which  the  hills  were  formed, 
the  sun  beating  down  upon  them  — these,  and  the  thousand  images  of  a dead 
antiquity,  which  were  here  offered  to  the  gaze  of  pilgrims  from  a living,  fresh, 
new  and  animated  world,  held  us  bound  for  a short  period  in  chains  of  wonder- 
ing silence.  All  around  us  was  still.  We  had  apparently  reached  the  confines 
even  of  inanimate  nature,  so  far  as  any  principle  of  life,  even  of  mere  vegetable 
life,  might  seem  to  connect  us  still  with  the  external  world ; and  here  we  stood 
alone,  among  the  emblems  of  departed  ages  and  generations.  How  strong 
must  have  been  the  feeling  of  the  vanity  of  life  and  the  emptiness  of  worldly 
pomp  and  splendor,  which  could  have  led  out  princes  from  the  hundred  gates 
of  the  rich,  the  luxurious,  and  the  populous  city,  to  seek  their  tombs  among 
these  rocky  hills,  which  stand  unchanged  in  everlasting  loneliness  ! 

Ascending  a short  distance  among  the  fragments,  which  had  evidently  been 
taken  from  the  very  bowels  of  the  hills  by  vast  and  persevering  labor,  we  came 
to  the  entrance  of  what  is  commonly  called  Belzoni’s  Tomb,  since  it  was  first 
opened  by  that  enterprising  traveller.  As  the  manner  of  its  discovery  is  inte- 
resting, I shall  here  quote  the  words  of  a writer  who  was  upon  the  spot  soon 
after  the  opening  of  the  tomb,  and  was  accompanied  in  his  visit  by  the  celebra- 


14 


106 


DISCOVERY  OF  BELZONl’s  TOMB. 


ted  discoverer.  He  says  that  Belzoni,  “ in  walking  over  the  ground,  observed 
that  the  immense  mass  of  detritus,  or  small  stony  fragments,  which  bank  the 
base  of  the  mountain,  and  fill  up  the  valley  on  each  side,  had  a particular  lie, 
or  direction,  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  open  tombs.  This  was  occasioned  by 
the  materials,  which  were  carried  out  of  the  tomb  at  the  time  of  its  formation, 
being  laid  along  there  on  each  side,  as  the  most  convenient  place  for  disposing 
of  them.  The  orifice  of  this  tomb  was  entirely  blocked  up,  occasioned,  as  some 
imagine,  by  a mountain  torrent  passing  immediately  over  it.  The  surface  was 
perfectly  level,  and  to  an  ordinary  observer,  presented  nothing  different  from 
what  was  around  it.  But  the  practised  eye  of  the  antiquary  looked  deeper 
than  the  surface.  Determined  to  prove  the  truth  or  fallacy  of  his  conjecture, 
Mr.  Belzoni  set  a number  of  Arabs  to  work,  to  sink  a passage  in  front  of  the 
rock,  through  the  accumulation  of  detritus,  down  to  the  solid  base.  Appear- 
ances at  first  by  no  means  flattered  his  expectations,  and  the  remarks  of  some 
who  witnessed  his  effort,  tended  to  damp  and  discourage  the  undertaking. 
After  some  days  of  unremitting  exertion,  even  his  own  hopes  became  less  san- 
guine, yet  still  he  persevered,  and  at  last  the  hit  of  some  lucky  shovel  uncovered 
the  polished  front  of  the  rock.  The  sight  redoubled  all  their  energies,  braced 
all  their  sinking  hopes,  for  every  man  shares  in  the  success  of  the  man  who  is 
deservedly  fortunate.  After  a few  more  efforts  the  door  of  entrance  was 
unsealed,  and  the  joy  of  Belzoni  may  be  more  easily  conceived  than  expressed. 
The  depth  through  which  he  had  descended  in  the  rubbish,  was  about  twenty 
feet,  and  from  the  sides  constantly  falling  in,  had  occasioned  him  as  much  labor 
as  would  otherwise  nearly  have  sunk  the  same  passage  to  twice  the  depth. 
Still  much  remained  to  be  done  ; the  passage  along  the  shaft  was  to  be  cleared, 
it  having  been  blocked  up  with  sand  for  a considerable  way.  But  he  had  now 
seen  the  success  of  his  labors,  and  flushed  with  the  past,  what  remained  to 
be  accomplished,  presented  but  a feeble  obstacle  to  the  enterprising  spirit  of 
one  who  had  already  achieved  so  much.  The  work  being  hotly  plied,  the 
entrance  was  soon  broken  up,  and  the  sand  basketed  out,  so  as  to  afford  an 
access  to  the  intrepid  discoverer,  who,  armed  with  a lighted  torch,  as  soon  as 
there  was  room  to  admit  his  hand  and  his  head,  thrust  them  in,  and,  pushing 


THE  HARPER’S  TOMB. 


107 


sand  and  rubbish  aside  with  his  giant  shoulders,  crawled  along  on  his  breast 
into  the  interior  of  this  long  forgotten  tomb,  exulting  in  all  the  raptures  of 
success,  which  he  must  have  truly  felt,  as  he  had  truly  merited.” 

The  tomb  is  entered  by  a doorway  nearly  seven  feet  wide  and  a little  less 
than  nine  feet  high.  It  is  over  three  hundred  feet  long,  and  consists  of  fourteen 
chambers,  of  various  sizes.  A flight  of  steps  leads  to  the  door.  The  tomb  was 
probably  formed  by  cutting  away  the  limestone  in  small  pieces,  and  after  the 
first  rough  operation  had  been  accomplished,  the  surface  was  polished  and 
covered  over  with  innumerable  hieroglyphics  and  figures,  sunk  into  the  rock 
and  painted  with  a variety  of  colors,  white,  red,  blue  and  yellow  predominating. 
The  long  corridor  is  entirely  covered  with  these  emblems,  and  so  indeed  are  the 
chambers  to  which  it  leads,  and  every  available  space.  Those  who  wish  to  find 
an  exact  description  of  the  stars,  the  tablets  of  hieroglyphics,  the  globes,  the 
serpent,  the  vultures,  the  deities  of  Egypt,  and  all  the  countless  figures  which 
cover  the  walls  and  the  ceiling  of  the  tomb,  are  referred  to  the  numerous  elabo- 
rate works  upon  the  subject. 

From  the  tomb  of  Belzoni,  we  went  a short  distance  to  another,  which, 
from  the  figures  playing  upon  the  harp,  by  which  the  walls  are  adorned,  is 
called  the  Harper’s  Tomb.  The  entrance  to  this  is  far  more  imposing  and 
elaborate  than  the  other,  being  distinguished  by  several  columns,  the  capitals  of 
which  were  formed  of  the  sculptured  head  of  the  ox,  the  horns  curving,  but 
the  general  direction  being  still  upright,  for  the  purpose  of  supporting  the 
entablature.  This  representation  of  life,  in  the  absence  of  every  sign  of  it 
around,  presented  by  contrast  a striking  animated  front.  This  tomb  is  very 
interesting,  because  the  sculptures  on  the  walls  give  us  a good  idea  of  the  man- 
ners and  customs,  the  modes  of  life  of  the  ancient  Egyptians.  This  appears  to 
have  been  the  place  of  sepulture,  not  merely  of  the  kings  themselves,  but  of 
the  officers  of  the  household.  One  chamber,  therefore,  in  which  the  chief  cook 
was  probably  buried,  is  devoted  to  representations  of  the  slaughter  of  animals, 
of  men  cutting  up  meat  and  placing  it  upon  a tripod  to  be  roasted,  with  all  the 
particulars  which  are  so  familiar  to  us  from  the  descriptions  of  Homer.  In 
another  chamber,  the  final  resting-place,  perhaps,  of  some  master  of  the  royal 


108 


ANCIENT  MODES  OF  LIFE  REVEALED. 


ships,  there  were  sails,  masts,  boats,  which,  carefully  examined,  would  throw 
some  light  upon  the  state  of  ancient  Egyptian  naval  architecture.  But  the 
proofs  which  were  here  given  of  the  progress  that  the  Egyptians  had  then  made 
in  the  arts  of  civilization,  and  even  in  luxurious  refinement,  were  the  most 
striking  of  all.  The  chairs,  for  example,  not  only  showed  that  the  former 
inhabitants  did  not  follow  the  present  Oriental  fashion  of  sedentary  repose,  but 
they  were  even  modern  in  shape,  and  still  more  so  in  the  materials  with  which 
they  were  covered.  The  panoply  of  war — knives,  helmets,  spears,  daggers, 
quivers,  bows,  arrows,  falchions,  coats  of  mail; — and  some  of  these  appear  to 
represent  instruments  made  of  iron  or  steel.  Sofas,  couches,  vases,  sometimes 
of  porcelain,  at  others  of  common  earthenware,  baskets  of  great  elegance  and 
neatness ; agricultural  implements  and  rural  scenes,  the  inundation  of  the  Nile, 
and  the  peculiar  modes  of  farming  in  Egypt ; the  deities  of  the  country,  and  its 
vegetable  productions  and  animals,  with  various  emblems  of  mythology,  and  in 
the  last  chamber  blind  harpers,  that  appear  to  be  playing  before  some  god,  who 
is  supposed  to  represent  the  divinity  whom  the  Greeks  named  Hercules  — such, 
and  a profusion  of  similar  sculptures,  are  the  ornaments  of  this  tomb. 

We  afterwards  visited  several  other  tombs,  and  observed  that  they  were 
finished  with  various  degrees  of  labor  and  expense  ; for  while  the  sculptures  in 
most  cases  were  executed  in  intaglio,  in  one  they  were  in  relievo,  and  in  another 
there  was  no  sculpture,  but  the  polished  walls  of  the  tomb  had  been  simply 
painted. 

It  would  have  occupied  more  hours  than  we  had  at  our  disposal  to  have 
visited  all  the  tombs  now  open.  The  number  in  ancient  times  is  said  to  have 
amounted  to  forty-seven,  some  of  those  which  were  open  in  the  reign  of  the 
Ptolemies  being  now  closed,  though  fourteen  out  of  seventeen  spoken  of  by 
Diodorus,  are  still  to  be  found.  Twenty-one  are  now  known,  and  doubtless 
several  others  might  be  discovered  by  perseverance  and  enterprise,  like  those  of 
Belzoni,  already  described.  We  visited  six  of  the  most  noted. 

But  to  us  a most  interesting  subject  of  contemplation  was  suggested  by  the 
question,  cui  bono  ? For  what  purpose,  in  these  remote  solitudes,  amid  these 
sterile  rocks,  and  on  the  very  borders  of  the  melancholy  desert,  whose  barren 


f 


MOTIVES  OF  THE  CONSTRUCTORS  OF  THE  TOMBS. 


109 


sands  hold  irreconcilable  and  ceaseless  war  with  every  principle  of  life,  did  the 
lords  of  Thebes  go  out  to  build  these  mighty  monuments  to  their  own  nothing- 
ness? Upon  what  principles  did  they  reason  when  they  excavated  palaces  so 
finished  and  adorned  for  the  senseless  clay  ? These  tombs  could  never  admit  the 
light  of  day,  and  can  now  be  contemplated  by  the  wondering  traveller  only  by 
the  glare  of  the  torches  which  he  bears  to  enlighten  his  doubtful  way ; and  we 
cannot  convince  ourselves  that  these  sepulchres  were  thus  elaborately  prepared 
and  in  such  a place,  to  attract  the  admiration  of  living  men.  They  might, 
indeed,  have  furnished  a memento  mori  to  the  prince,  and  there  seems  a digni- 
fied and  sober  forethought  in  the  reigning  monarch  who  is  no  sooner  seated 
upon  a throne  of  earthly  glory,  than  he  begins  to  prepare  for  himself  a habita- 
tion in  the  dust.  But  the  longing  after  immortality  furnishes  a far  more  reason- 
able ground  for  conjecture ; and  that  irrepressible  yearning  of  the  soul  to  bound 
onward  into  eternity,  that  desire  for  an  unending  life,  which  dwells  more  or 
less  in  the  bosom  of  every  living  intelligence,  may  furnish  a clue  to  the  laby- 
rinth and  a key  to  open  the  secrets  of  these  splendid  mausolea.  Why,  these 
ancient  princes  might  have  said  to  themselves,  why  should  not  my  spirit  return 
to  this  body,  which  is  so  skilfully  embalmed  ? And  when  the  soul  comes 
back,  carefully  seeking  her  former  dwelling,  should  she  not  receive  a worthy 
welcome  ? Will  it  not  please  her  to  enter  into  a mansion  fitly  adorned  and 
prepared  for  her  new  residence  and  her  blissful  re-union  ? When  the  great 
cycle  is  accomplished,  and  all  things  become  again  what  they  now  are,  and  the 
rejoicing  spirit  returns  from  her  long  and  weary  pilgrimage,  to  the  body  which 
she  once  dignified  and  ennobled,  let  all  things  be  worthily  prepared  for  the 
entrance  of  the  illustrious  wanderer  ! — Such,  we  may  imagine,  where  all  is  lost 
in  conjecture,  to  have  been  the  thoughts  which  guided  the  royal  architects 
when  they  profusely  lavished  their  treasures  upon  these  sumptuous  habitations 
for  the  perishing  clay  ! 

But  perhaps  a more  rational  solution  of  the  great  care  bestowed  upon  the 
bodies  of  the  dead,  may  be  found  in  the  following  extract : “ If  we  here  trace 
a rapid  sketch  of  the  notions  which  the  Egyptians  had  formed  of  a future  state, 
their  sepulchral  paintings  may  seem  more  intelligible.  If,  as  Diodorus  asserts, 


110 


EGYPTIAN  IDEA  OF  A FUTUKE  STATE. 


they  regarded  life  as  a passage,  and  their  earthly  dwellings  as  inns,  it  is  equally 
certain  that  no  Epicurean  or  Hedonic  philosopher  could  have  sought  more 
eagerly  to  strew  that  passage  with  flowers,  or  to  crowd  their  inns  with  more 
images  and  instruments  of  pleasure.  In  what  consisted  the  happiness  reserved 
for  the  pious  in  the  next  world,  antiquity  has  furnished  us  with  no  means  of 
discovering.  — Those  spirits  which  were  most  happy  dwelt  near  the  body,  in 
the  cities  of  the  dead,  where,  wandering  invisible  through  their  vast  and  silent 
mansions,  lighted,  perhaps,  by  the  brightness  of  their  own  eyes,  they  watched 
with  intense  interest  over  the  decay  of  their  ancient  earthly  companions,  into 
which,  on  the  festivals  of  the  Manes,  they  may  have  been  permitted  to  enter, 
that  by  the  aid  of  material  organs  they  might  snuff  up  the  savors  exhaling 
from  the  delicious  viands  devoured  in  their  honor  by  their  descendants.  The 
number  of  years  to  be  thus  passed  by  the  spirit  is  not  known  with  certainty ; 
some  imagining  they  were  excluded  from  final  beatitude  in  the  celestial  man- 
sions during  a whole  revolution  of  the  great  cycle  of  three  thousand  years, 
after  which,  having  undergone  a palingenesia , or  second  birth,  they  ascended  to 
the  stellar  spheres,  from  which  they  originally  came.” 

The  labor  and  expense  lavished  upon  these  gorgeous  monuments  of  the 
dead ; which,  save  in  their  darkness  and  seclusion,  resemble  far  more  the  sump- 
tuous abodes  of  the  living,  must  ever  remain  a striking  example  of  the  infatua- 
tion of  man,  as  well  as  a proof  of  the  religious  tendencies  of  his  nature,  and 
his  yearning  after  immortality. 

“ Strange  race  of  men  ! more  anxious  to  prepare 
Their  last  abodes,  and  make  them  grand  or  fair, 

Than  grace  their  living  homes ; one  gloomy  thought 
Their  souls  possessed,  one  honor  still  they  sought — 

To  lie  in  splendor,  and  to  bear  in  death 

Life’s  form  and  seeming  — all  things  but  its  breath. 

What  though  around  them  summer  flowers  might  bloom, 

And  bright  suns  shine, — they  only  saw  the  tomb, 

Wished  there  to  rest  their  unconsuming  clay, 

And  dream,  in  pomp,  eternal  years  away. 


•aocfBjj  ia-51-ug- 


P LA  I N OF  THEBES. 


THE  PLAIN  OF  THEBES. 


Ill 


For  this  they  gathered  gold,  the  slave,  the  king ; 

And  all  the  wealth  that  toiling  years  could  bring 
Was  lavished  oft  on  rites  which  e’en  outshone 
The  conqueror’s  march,  the  pageants  of  a throne  1 ” 

Upon  our  return,  instead  of  following  the  path  which  had  conducted  us 
hither,  we  were  advised  to  take  a different  route,  and  one  that  led  us  to  an  emi- 
nence overlooking  the  whole  valley  of  Thebes.  A portion  of  this  pathway  was 
very  steep,  so  that  we  were  obliged  to  dismount  from  our  horses  and  climb  up 
the  side  of  the  hill  with  no  little  difficulty.  But  we  were  amply  repaid  for  all 
our  toil  by  the  view  which  burst  upon  us  from  the  summit.  Altogether  this 
was  the  most  magnificent  view  that  met  our  eyes  in  Egypt.  We  had  indeed 
beheld  a glorious  prospect  from  the  citadel  of  Cairo.  There  we  had  at  our  feet 
the  living  city,  but  were  still  connected  with  the  almost  fabulous  past  by  the 
mighty  pyramids,  whose  silent  eloquence  contrasted  so  strongly  with  the  hum 
of  the  living  world  below.  But  here  we  had  just  come  from  the  city  of  the 
dead,  and  looked  down  upon  the  uninhabited  plain  where  once  stood  the  great- 
est city  of  Egypt.  The  site  was  well  chosen  for  the  purposes  which  governed 
the  men  of  those  ancient  days.  For  here  was  the  broadest  plain  of  Egypt,  and 
the  Nile  was  winding  his  majestic  and  companionless  course  through  the  capa- 
cious valley.  Upon  that  plain,  now  deserted,  stood  once  the  glory  and  the 
capital  of  Egypt,  and  in  the  midst  of  all  the  scenes  which  we  now  saw  unal- 
tered, princes  and  forgotten  generations  once  occupied  their  day.  But  how  is  the 
current  of  events  changed  by  those  ages  that  have  passed  between ! The  city 
which  once  stood  upon  this  plain  has  but  left  behind  her  some  melancholy 
wrecks  of  her  former  greatness,  while  the  advancing  tide  of  human  civilization 
has  for  ever  put  out  her  glory.  When  Thebes  was  built  upon  this  plain,  her 
inhabitants  sufficed  to  themselves,  and  lived  in  isolation  from  the  rest  of  man- 
kind. The  seat  of  empire  next  changed  to  Memphis,  then  to  Cairo,  ever 
advancing  towards  the  sea,  till  at  last  it  became  seated  at  Alexandria,  on  the 
borders  of  that  inland  ocean,  through  which  alone  Egypt  can  rise  to  any  part 
of  her  pristine  greatness,  and  again  become  one  among  the  nations  of  the 
earth. 


112 


THE  MEMNONIUM. 


But  we  were  attracted  from  such  reflections  on  the  past  and  the  possible 
future,  by  the  wonderful  scene  around  us.  'The  Arabian  Mountains,  rising 
beyond  the  river  with  all  their  beauty  of  outline,  and  between  us  and  the  hills 
the  ruins  of  the  ancient  cities  of  Karnak  and  Luxor ; the  river  winding  in  its 
fertilizing  course  through  the  capacious  plain  of  variegated  green ; the  colossi 
diminished  in  size  by  the  distance,  but  distinctly  visible  upon  the  plain  between 
us  and  the  river ; at  our  feet  the  world-renowned  Memnonium,  and  the  ruins  of 
Meedinet  Aboo  ; the  softness  and  transparency  of  the  atmosphere,  and  the  rich 
and  golden  mantle  which  the  rays  of  the  sun  threw  over  the  whole  ; all  these 
combined  made  this  a prospect  never  to  be  forgotten. 


THE  MEMNONIUM. 

We  now  descended  from  this  elevation,  and  directed  our  steps  towards  what 
is  called  the  Memnonium,  though  according  to  modern  discoveries,  it  should 
properly  be  entitled  the  palace  of  Rameses  the  Great.  This  ruin,  for  the 
elegance  of  its  architecture  and  the  symmetry  of  its  design,  is  thought  to  be 
one  of  the  most  finished  monuments  of  Egypt.  Though  now  reduced  to  ruin, 
its  original  plan  may  be  distinctly  made  out.  The  front,  which  looks  towards 
the  south,  must  have  consisted  originally  of  two  immense  pyramidal  structures, 
which  are  now  completely  ruined ; but  by  means  of  the  steps  which  still 
remain,  we  were  enabled  to  get  to  the  summit  of  one  of  them.  From  this  we 
could  look  down  into  the  first  court,  which  was  about  one  hundred  and  eighty 
feet  square.  In  this  court,  and  near  the  entrance  of  the  temple,  was  placed  the 
statue  of  Rameses,  of  colossal  dimensions,  and  hewn  out  of  one  solid  piece  of 
granite.  The  figure  was  seated  after  the  manner  of  many  of  the  Egyptian 
sculptures,  with  its  hands  placed  upon  the  knees,  and  was  seventy-five  feet  in 
height  and  about  twenty -three  feet  across  the  shoulders.  It  excited  our  admira- 
tion, how  such  an  immense  mass  of  bluish  granite,  different  from  all  the  stones 
in  the  neighborhood,  should  have  been'  moved  from  its  quarry,  but  it  occasioned 
little  less  surprise  how  the  gigantic  statue  could  be  overthrown  and  broken  to 


D . Appleton  & C°  200,  Broadway,  New  York . 


DESTRUCTION  BY  FIRE. — ARCHITECTURE  AND  SCULPTURE.  113 

pieces  in  the  manner  which  we  beheld.  No  traces  of  any  instrument  employed 
for  this  purpose  can  be  discovered,  and  we  hazarded  a conjecture,  which  we 
believe  is  a novel  one,  that  the  destruction  was  accomplished  by  the  action  of 
fire  and  water,  the  latter  being  thrown  upon  the  statue  while  it  was  yet  hot. 
This  conjecture  derives  strength  from  the  appearance  of  several  of  the  fractures, 
which  bear  the  same  marks  as  I have  noticed  in  the  case  of  granite  houses 
injured  by  fire.  It  seems  to  accord  with  the  prediction  of  the  prophet  Jere- 
miah, “ And  I will  kindle  a fire  in  the  houses  of  the  gods  of  Egypt,  and  he 
shall  burn  them,  and  carry  them  away  captives.”  (Jeremiah  XLIII.,  12.) 
Ascending  the  steps  which  lead  into  the  second  court,  which  is  about  one  hun- 
dred and  forty  by  one  hundred  and  seventy  feet,  and  was  originally  surrounded 
by  columns  also,  we  entered  another  area,  or  the  principal  hall.  Through 
the  centre  of  this  run  two  rows  of  immense  columns,  twelve  in  number, 
and  about  thirty-two  feet  in  height  and  twenty-one  in  circumference,  the 
great  circumference,  in  comparison  with  the  height,  giving  them  a low  mas- 
sive appearance.  On  each  side  are  eighteen  columns  of  smaller  size,  making 
forty-eight  in  the  whole  number.  The  dimensions  of  this  hall  are  one 
hundred  feet  by  one  hundred  and  thirty-three.  Beyond  these  are  three  large 
chambers,  with  three  more  on  each  side.  It  is  impossible  by  description  to 
give  any  correct  idea  of  this  ruin,  but  what  has  been  said  may  serve  to  show 
its  immense  size.  The  external  walls  are  covered  with  representations  of  bat- 
tles, and  of  the  mode  in  which  warfare  was  then  carried  on  ; the  return  of  the 
king  in  triumph,  his  offerings  to  the  gods,  and  other  subjects,  sculptured  in  low 
relief,  with  little  accuracy  of  drawing,  but  with  marvellous  effect. 

At  Koorneh,  a short  distance  to  the  north-east  of  these  majestic  ruins,  are 
others,  less  in  extent  and  less  imposing,  though  remarkable  for  their  symmetry. 
We  ought  to  have  visited  them  before  going  to  the  Memnonium,  as  it  is  not 
well  in  such  sight-seeing  to  go  from  the  greater  to  the  less ; and  besides,  we 
were  by  this  time  too  much  fatigued  to  appreciate  justly  an  object  which  any 
where  else,  and  at  a more  propitious  moment,  would  have  filled  us  with  admi- 
ration. These  ruins  are  much  dilapidated,  and  portions  completely  filled  with 
rubbish  and  sand,  so  that  the  original  plan  cannot  be  easily  traced,  as  in  the 


15 


114 


TEMPLE  PALACE  AT  KOORNEH — EARLY  RISING. 


Memnonium.  It  was  a temple  dedicated  to  Amun,  the  Theban  Jupiter,  and  at 
the  same  time  designed  for  the  residence  of  one  of  the  kings.  On  this  account, 
I presume,  the  compound  name  of  temple-palace  has  been  given  to  it.  We 
noticed  the  frequent  introduction  of  the  ram’s  head  as  the  symbol  especially 
appropriate  to  Jupiter  Ammon,  and  were  informed  by  our  books  that  the  hiero- 
glyphics record  that  the  temple  was  begun  by  Osirei  about  1380  years  before 
Christ,  and  was  completed  by  his  son  Remeses,  who  was  supposed  to  be  the 
Se^stris  of  the  Greeks.  The  principal  thing  that  struck  us  was  a large  cham- 
ber, the  ceiling  of  which  had  a fine  effect.  It  was  divided  into  compartments, 
varied  but  ingeniously  combined  by  the  introduction  of  circular,  square,  and 
lozenge-shaped  patterns,  painted  in  blue,  red,  yellow,  and  white.  The  sculp- 
tures on  the  walls  were  remarkably  well  cut.  Over  the  door  was  the  ornament 
so  common  in  Egyptian  temples,  the  globe  with  serpent  and  wings,  and  the 
walls  were  covered  with  symbolical  designs  which,  if  deciphered,  would  no 
doubt  relate  some  of  the  principal  events  in  the  times  of  the  kings  who  founded 
the  temple. 

The  approach  of  darkness  now  warned  us  to  make  the  best  of  our  way  to 
the  river,  which  we  had  to  cross  in  order  to  reach  our  boat,  which  lay  upon  the 
opposite  shore. 

March  ls£ — We  were  in  a region  of  too  exciting  an  interest,  and  had  too 
little  time  at  our  disposal,  to  allow  ourselves  more  rest  than  was  absolutely 
necessary,  and  were  therefore  up  betimes.  Upon  going  on  shore  we  were 
informed  that  the  governor  of  Esneh,  to  whose  province  Luxor  belongs,  had 
arrived  the  night  before  for  the  purpose  of  administering  justice.  We  decided, 
therefore,  to  go  and  pay  our  respects  to  him.  The  Turks  are  early  risers,  and 
wisely  avail  themselves  of  the  cool  of  the  morning  for  the  transaction  of  busi- 
ness. Soon  after  sunrise,  then,  we  found  the  governor  in  his  audience-room, 
which  indeed  was  but  a sorry  looking  place  for  such  a dignitary.  The  house 
was  a rude  wooden  frame-work  building,  filled  in  with  plaster,  which  seemed 
to  be  principally  a yellow  mud.  The  court-yard  was  crowded  with  the  common 
people  of  the  country,  with  a few  of  the  governor’s  attendants  interspersed, 
making  bargains,  perhaps,  as  to  what  decision  their  master  should  give  in  their 


8c  C?  200.  Broacl'way.  New  "York 


COURTESY  OF  A TURKISH  GOVERNOR  — LUXOR. 


115 


respective  cases.  And  here,  we  fear,  as  in  other  places  where  commodities  are 
sold,  “ best  pay  best  served.”  The  crowd  gave  way,  and  by  a flight  of  outside 
stairs  we  entered  the  room.  It  was  like  a common  room,  left  with  only  the 
first  coating  of  brown,  and  entirely  unfurnished,  with  the  exception  of  an  otto- 
man upon  two  sides.  In  the  corner  sat  the  great  man,  cross-legged,  with  cush- 
ions about  him,  smoking  his  pipe.  Upon  our  entrance,  business  was  suspended, 
and  our  dragoman  mentioned  who  we  were.  The  governor  immediately,  in  the 
most  courteous  manner,  motioned  to  us  to  take  our  seats  near  him.  We  had 
hardly  done  so,  when  coffee  and  pipes  were  brought  to  us.  We  held  a short 
conversation  with  him,  by  means  of  our  dragoman,  who  was  our  interpreter. 
When  he  was  informed  that  our  object  was  to  visit  the  ruins  at  Karnak,  he 
immediately  said,  “You  must  not  walk,  and  the  horses  here  are  not  fit  for  you: 
you  shall  have  my  horses.”  He  had  hardly  spoken  the  word,  when  two 
attendants  went  off  at  a quick  pace  to  execute  his  orders.  Making  our  best 
acknowledgments  for  this  unexpected  attention,  we  now  left  his  excellency,  the 
proceedings  of  a Turkish  court  of  justice  having  no  interest  for  us. 

Luxor  is  certainly  a most  remarkable  place.  We  have  before  seen  the  mas- 
sive ruins  of  temples  and  colonnades  all  desolate,  or  with  a few  sheep  and  goats 
wandering  about  the  deserted  courts.  But  here  were  the  beautiful  remains  of 
a remote  antiquity,  mixed  up  in  a most  singular  manner  with  the  rude  mud- 
walled  cottages  of  a modern  people,  and  their  cow-pens,  stables,  and  sheds  for 
cattle.  The  temple  of  Luxor  is  not  only  surrounded  by  the  modern  village, 
but  every  available  space  is  filled  with  it.  The  temple  must  originally  have 
been  more  than  eight  hundred  feet  in  length  by  two  hundred  in  width.  Many 
of  the  columns  are  standing,  but  the  greater  portion  of  the  walls  have  been 
thrown  down  and  the  materials  carried  away.  Besides  the  columns,  many  of 
the  statues  which  adorned  the  edifice  still  remain,  and  it  is  singular  to  see  in 
different  places  the  heads  thrusting  themselves  out  from  a mass  of  rubbish.  In 
order  to  obtain  a sight  of  many  of  the  parts,  and  much  of  the  sculpture  on  the 
walls,  it  is  necessary  to  clamber  up  to  the  roofs  of  the  modern  houses,  and  get 
through  their  filthy  yards.  A trifling  gratuity  obtains  the  permission  to  do 
this.  Were  the  ruin  cleared  of  these  modern  incumbrances,  it  would  doubtless 


116 


OBELISKS  AT  LUXOR  AND  PARIS. 


present  a very  grand  appearance,  and  many  beautiful  parts  would  be  revealed, 
which  are  now  completely  buried.  The  columns  in  one  part  are  very  stately, 
covered  with  sculpture  and  hieroglyphics.  Their  dimensions  are  twelve  feet  in 
diameter  and  about  forty  feet  in  height,  with  finely  wrought  bell-shaped  capi- 
* tals.  But  the  point  of  principal  interest  is  the  grand  entrance.  A little  to  the 
east  of  it  were  two  beautiful  obelisks  eighty  feet  high,  and  ten  feet  at  the  base, 
covered  all  round,  and  from  top  to  bottom,  with  hieroglyphics  deeply  and 
sharply  chiselled  into  the  solid  granite.  One  only  remains  in  its  original  posi- 
tion, the  other  was  removed  to  Paris  with  great  labor  and  expense.  Its  eleva- 
tion upon  the  pedestal  prepared  for  it  in  the  Place  de  la  Concorde,  was  con- 
sidered to  be  quite  a triumph  of  mechanical  skill,  and  excited  the  attention  of 
all  France,  and  even  Europe.  What  then  must  have  been  the  skill,  the  enter- 
prise, and  the  resources  of  that  wonderful  people  who  so  many  ages  since  cut 
out  from  their  native  quarries  these  hundreds  of  immense  blocks,  transported 
them  long  distances,  wrought  the  hard  material  into  columns  and  obelisks, 
covered  them  over  with  the  richest  sculptures,  and  then  planted  them  in 
symmetrical  order  to  sustain  and  adorn  their  vast  temples.  Behind  the  obe- 
lisks, and  on  each  side  of  the  grand  entrance,  are  two  immense  statues,  repre- 
senting the  king  seated  in  the  usual  attitude,  but  all  the  lower  portions  are 
buried  in  the  sand. 

Our  farther  examinations  were  interrupted  by  the  approach  of  the  gover- 
nor’s horses.  They  were  the  finest  animals  we  had  seen  in  Egypt,  and  were 
brought  to  us  richly  caparisoned  and  led  by  their  Arab  grooms  in  full  dress, 
armed  with  sabres  and  pistols  in  their  girdles.  The  distance  to  Karnak  was 
something  less  than  two  miles.  The  road  lay  through  fields  of  a coarse  grass 
which  is  said  to  spring  up  when  there  are  ruins  of  ancient  buildings  beneath 
the  soil.  The  whole  plain  was  doubtless  once  covered  over,  and  there  are 
sufficient  indications  to  show  that  formerly  a broad  avenue  led  from  the  Temple 
of  Luxor  to  that  of  Karnak.  It  was  lined  on  each  side  with  a row  of  sphinxes, 
and  in  one  part  of  it  were  the  fragments  of  quite  a number  of  these  imaginary 
creations,  and  enough  remains  to  show  that  they  were  sculptured  with  exqui- 
site art. 


OBELISK  AND  PROPYLON 


APPROACH  TO  KAR  NAK  . 


THE  TEMPLE  OF  KARNAK. 


117 


We  eagerly  pressed  on.  We  rode  round  this  wilderness  of  gigantic  ruins, 
one  thousand  one  hundred  and  eighty  feet  in  extreme  length,  one  mile  and  a 
half  in  circumference.  We  dismounted  and  walked  leisurely  through  and  over 
in  all  directions,  stopping  often  in  mute  admiration.  We  went  to  the  grand 
entrance  and  ascended  the  massive  towers ; we  crossed  the  large  open  court, 
275  feet  by  329,  with  a covered  passage  on  the  sides  and  a double  line  of  large 
columns  through  the  centre.  We  entered  the  grand  hall,  329  feet  by  170, 
through  the  centre  of  which  is  an  avenue  of  twelve  columns  66  feet  high  and 
12  in  diameter,  and  on  each  side  of  these  seven  rows  of  lesser  columns,  over 
40  feet  in  height  by  9 in  diameter.  We  gazed  upon  the  sculptures  on  the 
outer  walls — the  battle  scenes,  the  triumphs  of  the  king,  the  homage  done  him 
by  captive  nations,  his  offering  to  the  gods ; and  with  an  interest  deeper  than  all 
upon  the  portion  representing  the  capture  of  the  Jews  by  Shishak  in  the  reign 
of  Rehoboam.  But  can  I describe  all  this  ? Language  would  fail  me,  even  if 
the  space  allowed  me  would  suffice.  Nothing  can  exceed  the  grandeur  of  the 
ruins  of  the  Temple  of  Karnak.  Those  of  Rome  sink  into  comparative  insig- 
nificance. The  Colosseum  alone  keeps  its  hold  upon  the  imagination,  and  even 
that  is  far  less  remarkable  as  a work  of  man  than  the  Temple  of  Karnak.  It  is 
nothing  like  as  extensive  or  as  massive  in  its  details,  and  were  it  as  much  dilap- 
idated, would  seem  as  nothing  in  comparison.  I fully  realize  the  impressions 
of  a former  traveller,  and  appropriate  his  animated  language  to  convey  them  to 
the  reader.  “Do  not  expect  architectural  plans  or  descriptions  from  me.  I have 
neither  time  nor  patience  for  them.  I will  only  say  that  all  I had  anticipated  of 
Egyptian  magnificence  fell  short  of  the  reality,  and  that  it  was  here,  surveying 
these  Osiride  pillars,  that  splendid  corridor,  with  its  massy  circular  colums,  those 
walls,  lined  within  and  without  with  historical  sculptures  of  the  deepest  inte- 
rest, the  monarch’s  wars  with  the  eastern  nations  bordering  on  the  Euphrates  — 
study  for  months,  years  rather ! it  was  here,  I say,  here,  where  almost  every 
peculiarity  of  Egyptian  architecture  is  assembled  in  perfection,  that  I first  learnt 
to  appreciate  the  spirit  of  that  extraordinary  people,  and  to  feel  that,  poetless 
as  they  were,  they  had  a national  genius,  and  had  stamped  it  on  the  works  of 
their  hands,  lasting  as  the  Iliad.” 


118 


THE  ARAB  CHIEF  AT  A FRANK  DINNER. 


The  attentions  of  the  governor  demanded  from  ns  some  acknowledgment, 
and  after  conferring  with  our  dragoman  upon  the  propriety  of  the  step  as  a 
question  of  etiquette,  we  invited  his  excellency  to  dine  with  us  on  board  our 
boat.  The  invitation  was  at  once  accepted,  and  about  sunset  he  came  to  us  at 
the  river’s  edge,  attended  by  his  pipe-bearer  and  several  other  persons.  He 
was  accompanied  also  by  a venerable  looking  man,  who  we  were  told  was  the 
chief  of  an  extensive  tribe  of  Arabs,  and  had  very  large  possessions- — an 
immense  tract  of  country,  thirty  thousand  camels,  and  small  cattle  without 
number.  Having  come  to  visit  the  governor,  and  learning  that  he  was  to  dine 
with  us,  he  said  he  should  like  to  go  also  and  see  the  strangers.  The  custom 
of  eastern  hospitality  allowed  him  to  do  so  without  invitation,  and  we  were 
certainty  most  happy  to  receive  him.  Probably  this  was  the  first  time  he  had 
ever  eaten  with  Franks,  and  all  was  very  strange  to  him.  He  was  evidently 
a wag,  and  in  a good-natured  way,  made  many  observations  which  excited 
a good  deal  of  laughter  amongst  the  Arabs  who  thronged  the  door  of  our 
cabin  — for  here  again  we  cheerfully  conformed  to  the  eastern  custom  of 
letting  the  multitude  become  spectators  of  the  feast.  The  chief  found  some 
difficulty  in  seating  himself  at  table,  instead  of  taking  his  habitual  cross-legged 
attitude ; he  then,  in  imitation  of  us  and  the  governor,  who  was  a Turk  from 
Constantinople,  and  had  been  a travelled  man,  took  up  a knife  and  fork,  and 
held  them  with  a quizzical  look,  but  could  do  nothing  with  them,  and  so  upon 
an  intimation  from  us,  fell  to  with  his  fingers  in  his  plate.  The  wine  he  tasted, 
but  shook  his  head  and  would  not  drink,  while  the  governor  felt  no  such 
scruple.  But  he  was  most  of  all  amused  with  our  coffee-cups,  which  were  of 
the  size  of  an  ordinary  breakfast-cup  ; those  he  had  always  been  accustomed  to 
use  being  hardly  as  large  as  an  egg-cup.  He  asked  what  was  in  them,  and 
being  told  it  was  coffee,  he  laughed  outright  and  said,  “ Why  not  give  it  me  in 
a wash-tub  at  once  ?”  Our  dinner,  however,  went  off  very  pleasantly.  As  the 
dishes  left  our  table,  they  were  put  into  the  hands  of  the  attendants,  who  were 
outside,  and  who,  according  to  custom,  were  privileged  to  have  their  share  of  the 
feast.  Thus  every  particle  of  the  provision  was  consumed,  and  all  were  apparently 
much  gratified ; nor  were  we  less  pleased  at  this  illustration  of  eastern  manners. 


D . Appleton  & C?  200',  Broadway,  New  York . 


THE  HAEP  OF  MEMNON. 


119 


March  2 d.  — This  morning  we  were  again  “stirring  with  the  lark,”  and 
wished  to  have  been  in  time  to  hear,  if  possible,  “ the  Harp  of  Memnon,  which 
sounded  to  the  rising  sun,”  or  at  least  to  say  that  we  had  been  there  in  due 
time,  but,  like  all  who  have  visited  it  since  the  priests  have  disappeared,  heard 
no  sound.  As,  however,  we  had  to  cross  to  the  western  bank  of  the  river,  and 
then  ride  some  distance  over  the  plain,  we  were  too  late. 

The  statue  of  Memnon  (which  name  is  said  to  be  a corruption  of  Mi-ammon, 
or  “ the  beloved  of  Ammon,”  the  favorite  title  of  Kameses  the  Great),  is  one  of 
two  colossal  figures,  between  fifty  and  sixty  feet  in  height,  which  stand  in  a 
line  with  each  other,  facing  the  east,  and  about  forty  feet  apart.  Their  position 
on  the  wide  solitary  plain,  with  the  Libyan  mountains  for  a back-ground,  their 
attitude, — being  seated  in  perfect  repose,  with  the  palms  of  the  hands  resting 
upon  the  knees,  — and  their  immense  size,  produce  a striking  and  almost  sublime 
effect  as  you  approach  them.  Coming  near,  you  perceive  that  they  have  been 
much  mutilated.  The  general  outline  can  be  traced,  but  the  faces  are  destroyed 
and  the  other  parts  much  disfigured.  The  southern  statue  is  one  entire  block, 
and  so  probably  was  the  other,  or  the  Memnon,  originally.  But  it  fell  asunder, 
or  was  shattered  by  an  earthquake,  before  our  Saviour’s  time,  and  was  repaired, 
and  now  seems  to  consist  of  separate  though  massive  blocks  of  stone.  We  had 
read  that  the  secret  of  the  sounding  statue  was  disclosed  by  the  discovery  of  a 
block  of  stone  in  the  lap  of  the  figure,  which,  on  being  struck,  produced  a ring- 
ing noise,  and  we  determined  to  try  the  experiment.  With  great  difficulty,  and 
by  placing  one  man  upon  the  shoulders  of  another,  one  of  our  Arabs  succeeded 
in  getting  up.  He  was  directed  to  strike  with  a fragment  of  stone  that  was 
thrown  up  to  him,  upon  various  parts,  when  the  sound  produced  was  perfectly 
dead,  as  if  the  blow  was  upon  a solid  wall.  Again  he  struck,  and  a clear  ring- 
ing sound,  like  that  from  an  anvil,  was  produced,  or,  as  it  has  been  described, 
the  striking  upon  brass.  This  experiment  we  tried  repeatedly,  and  the  Arab 
produced  the  effect  without  our -being  able  to  see  him  from  below.  We  became 
satisfied,  therefore,  that  the  Harp  of  Memnon  was  nothing  more  than  an  artifice 
of  the  priests.  One  of  them,  by  a secret  passage  within  the  body  of  the  statue, 
could  gain  access  to  the  sounding  stone,  and  at  sunrise  produce  an  effect  which, 


120 


MEEDINET  ABOU  — TOMBS  OF  THE  QUEENS. 


when  the  block  was  perfect,  might  easily  be  supposed  to  resemble  the  twanging 
of  a harp-string.  The  people  of  the  country,  however,  still  believe  that  Mem- 
non  was  once  vocal,  and  the  Arabs  call  it  Salamat,  or  the  statue  that  bids  good 
morning. 

A short  distance  from  these  colossal  statues,  and  upon  the  • ledge  of  rock 
which  borders  the  plain  and  forms  the  base  of  the  Libyan  hills,  is  situated  the 
Temple  of  Meedinet  Abou.  This  is  the  fourth  of  the  great  temples  of  Thebes, 
the  others  being  Karnak,  Luxor,  and  the  Memnonium.  The  name,  as  indeed  is 
the  case  in  most  of  the  names  of  places  in  a foreign  language,  is  very  differently 
spelt,  in  the  effort  to  represent  the  native  pronunciation.  It  is  said  that  it 
ought  to  be  written  Medeena  Tabou,  that  is  to  say,  the  city  of  Tabou  or  Thebes. 
This  temple,  or  rather  assemblage  of  temples,  was  constructed  at  different 
periods, — the  original  edifice  by  one  of  the  Pharaohs,  who  reigned  more  than 
one  thousand  five  hundred  years  before  our  Saviour,  but  the  more  modern 
parts  by  the  Ptolemies  and  Caesars.  More  recently  still,  one  of  the  areas  had 
been  converted  into  a Christian  Church,  by  the  erection  of  an  altar  at  the  east 
end  and  covering  the  Pagan  sculptures  with  plaster.  The  battle-pieces  on  the 
walls  are  more  graphic  than  any  we  have  seen,  but  I despair  of  my  ability  to 
describe  them. 

From  this  temple  we  went  again  to  the  Memnonium,  and  afterwards  to 
some  private  tombs  in  the  rocky  ledges  above,  and  thence  to  the  valley  of  the 
Tombs  of  the  Queens.  One  of  the  private  tombs  is  particularly  interesting,  as 
containing  a fuller  delineation  of  the  modes  of  ancient  life  than  can  elsewhere 
be  found ; but  the  Tombs  of  the  Queens  have  little  to  attract  the  attention  of 
those  who  are  not  conversant  with  the  hieroglyphic  writing.  I might  attempt 
a farther  account  of  these  tombs,  with  those  of  the  Kings,  and  of  the  four  grand 
temples  I have  mentioned,  but  in  addition  to  the  difficulty  of  the  undertaking, 
I fear  to  detain  my  readers,  who  may  feel  impatient,  as  even  I did  at  this 
time,  to  be  on  the  return  voyage,  though  surrounded  by  these  wonders  of  ages 
long  past.  But  as  there  will  probably  be  some  amongst  those  who  may  honor 
these  pages  with  a perusal,  to  whom  fuller  descriptions  will  be  acceptable,  —I. 
will  beg  to  refer  such  to  the  Appendix. 


■ Applet  or  8c  C?  200.  Broadway,  New  York  . 


retrospective  view  of  the  Grand  Hall. 


CAPTIVE  OBELISKS. 


121 


OUR  LAST  DAY  IN  THEBES. 

March  3 d. — This  being  our  last  day  at  Thebes,  we  decided  to  pass  it  in  a 
farewell  visit  to  two  objects  of  great  interest,  and  which  have,  perhaps, 
more  deeply  attracted  us  than  any  others  where  all  has  been  invested  with 
the  highest  charm.  After  breakfast,  therefore,  we  took  our  guide  and  mules 
and  went  to  Karnak,  and  passing  in  company  through  the  village  of  Luxor,  we 
paused  to  contemplate  once  more  the  beautiful  obelisk.  This,  though  buried  to 
a considerable  distance  in  the  accumulating  sand,  seemed  to  me  more  majestic, 
and  certainly  filled  me  with  greater  admiration,  than  its  sister  obelisk  at  Paris, 
which  I sball  now  feel  to  be  more  out  of  place  than  ever.  Indeed,  I shall  have 
little  pleasure  in  again  seeing  that,  or  the  obelisks  at  Rome,  unless  it  be  that 
they  bring  back  to  my  mind,  by  association,  the  great  satisfaction  I have  derived 
from  looking  at  this  beautiful  pillar  in  its  real  position,  and  in  harmony  with, 
all  around  it.  True,  the  obelisks  at  Karnak  and  Luxor  do  not  show  the  whole 
of  their  shafts,  and  in  this  respect  are  not  seen  to  full  advantage.  They  are, 
moreover,  somewhat  mutilated,  and  one  at  Karnak  lies  prostrate  in  ruins ; but 
then  they  are  surrounded  by  fallen  columns,  by  broken  masses  of  stone,  and 
by  portions  of  ruinous  edifices,  and  thus  are  in  perfect  keeping  with  their  posi- 
tion. The  sculptures  and  hieroglyphics  too,  which  cover  both,  show  that  they 
belong  to  the  same  locality,  and  as  they  are  now  so  have  they  always  existed  in 
admirable  congruity.  But  the  obelisk  in  Paris,  and  those  at  Rome,  will  seem 
to  me  standing  like  captives  amongst  a people  with  whom  they  have  no  associa- 
tions. They  will  bring  to  mind  the  story  of  the  aged  and  white-haired  prisoner, 
released  from  the  Bastile,  who  came  out  to  see  around  him  a generation  of  peo- 
ple, and  modes  of  dress  and  manners,  of  which  he  knew  nothing.  They  will 
look  as  if  they  would  speak  like  him,  and  ask  to  be  restored  to  their  solitary 
and  desolate  prisons. 

From  Luxor  a ride  of  less  than  an  hour  brought  us  to  Karnak,  but  we 
approached  the  temple  by  a different  entrance  from  that  which  we  had  before 
taken.  The  several  avenues  that  lead  to  it,  seem  to  have  been  lined  with 


16 


122 


FAREWELL  TO  KARNAK. 


sphinxes,  and  the  effect  upon  one  passing  through  them  must  have  been  in  the 
highest  degree  impressive,  and  well  calculated  to  compose  the  mind  and  prepare 
it  for  the  contemplation  of  the  majestic  spectacle  within,  and  for  the  worship  of 
the  gods  to  whom  the  whole  was  dedicated.  The  attitude  of  the  sphinx  is  one 
of  repose,  but  not  of  slumber.  The  animal  part  rests  upon  its  bended  legs,  with 
the  fore-paws  stretched  out  in  front ; but  the  neck  and  head  are  erect.  The 
latter  are  sometimes  human  and  sometimes  those  of  an  animal.  In  this  avenue 
the  head  seemed  to  be  that  of  a ram ; but  every  figure  was  much  mutilated, 
and  all  were  partly  buried  in  the  earth.  Farther  on  we  entered  a ruined  gate- 
way, leading  to  a square  that  had  been  surrounded  with  seated  figures ; and  in 
the  centre  of  the  square  we  saw  the  foundations  of  a temple.  Coming  to  the 
portions  we  had  been  over  in  our  former  visit,  we  again  walked  slowly  through 
these  stupendous  ruins,  stopping  in  admiration  at  the  great  hall  with  its  lofty 
and  massive  columns,  before  the  obelisks,  and  in  front  of  different  parts  of  the 
sculptured  wall,  particularly  where  the  triumph  of  Shishak  over  the  Jews  is 
so  graphically  represented.  After  thus  making  the  circuit  of  this  enormous 
pile  of  ruins  and  taking  our  last  look,  not  unmingled  with  regret,  we  returned 
to  Luxor. 

We  then  went  to  pay  our  respects  and  bid  farewell  to  the  governor  and  to 
the  agent  of  the  Pasha,  who  had  shown  us  so  much  attention.  We  sent  them 
some  few  presents,  with  which  they  seemed  to  be  much  pleased.  The 
governor,  learning  that  we  were  going  away  immediately,  regretted  that  he 
had  not  the  opportunity  of  sending  to  one  of  his  villages  for  a sheep  and 
some  other  things,  as  an  expression  of  the  pleasure  he  had  received  in  meeting 
with  us. 

Wishing  to  employ  the  remainder  of  the  day  in  a last  visit  to  the  tombs  of  the 
kings,  we  took  our  small  boat  and  dropped  down  the  river  on  the  western  bank, 
opposite  Luxor,  to  what  is  called  the  sycamore  tree.  There  we  mounted  our 
donkeys  and  commenced  a ride  to  the  tombs.  At  the  entrance  of  the  valley  we 
met  our  friends  the  Crosbys,  returning.  They  were  quite  astonished  to  learn 
how  long  we  had  been  before  them,  and  that  this  was  our  second  visit  to  the 
tombs  of  the  kings.  We  spent  the  remainder  of  the  afternoon  in  Belzoni’s 


K A R N A K _ 


RETURN  FROM  THE  TOMBS  OF  THE  KINGS 


123 


tomb,  and  in  tbe  tomb  of  the  harpers,  these  being  the  principal  ones,  which  had 
most  interested  us  before.  This  second  visit  served  to  increase  our  admiration 
of  these  wonderful  works  and  of  the  people  by  whom  they  had  been  planned 
and  executed,  at  a time  too  when  what  is  now  the  civilized  world,  if  at  all  peo- 
pled, was  in  a state  of  barbarism.  Our  return  ride  was  a most  delightful  one. 
The  air  was  calm  and  warm  but  not  oppressive,  the  sky  unclouded,  the  sun 
setting  beneath  the  canopy  of  gold  which  he  had  made  for  himself,  and  the 
moon  half-full  shedding  her  silver  light  upon  our  path,  so  that  the  golden  glory 
of  the  western  sky,  and  the  soft  beams  of  her  who  had  come  forth  in  beauty  to 
rule  the  night,  mingling  together,  formed  a tempered  light  most  grateful  to  the 
•eyes  after  they  had  been  exposed  to  the  fervid  glow  of  the  sun  for  a whole  day. 
We  had  invited  the  Crosbys  to  dine  with  us,  and  soon  after  our  return  they 
came  on  board  our  boat,  and  we  passed  a very  pleasant  evening  together,  talk- 
ing over  our  past  experiences  in  the  valley  of  the  Nile.  As  we  conducted  them 
to  their  boat,  which  lay  near  to  ours,  we  saw  another  just  arriving  at  the  bank, 
and  found  it  to  be  that  of  our  English  friends,  the  Guthries.  We  immediately 
went  on  board,  and  had  an  hour’s  conversation  with  them,  giving  them  all  the 
suggestions  we  could  think  of  to  facilitate  their  visit  to  the  antiquities  of 
Thebes. 


fmjngt  bum  tjjc  Milt 


We  put  off  on  our  return  to  Cairo  between  eleven  and  twelve  o’clock 
at  night.  The  wind  was  calm,  and,  going  with  the  stream,  our  men 
could  ply  their  oars,  which  they  seemed  to  do  with  a very  good  will. 
We  were  saluted  by  our  friends  with  a few  guns,  which  we  returned  as  we 


124 


VISIT  TO  DENDERA. 


passed  by.  Thus  have  we  bid  farewell  to  Thebes,  after  a visit  of  five  days, 
most  industriously  devoted  to  seeing  all  that-  we  could  in  a place  so  replete 

A 

with  interest  that  five  weeks,  if  we  had  them  to  spare,  would  have  seemed  too 
short. 

March  Mh. — This  morning  we  woke  at  a late  hour,  our  boat  still  rowing 
down  the  river.  We  were  both  exceedingly  fatigued,  from  the  incessant 
exertion  and  excitement  of  the  last  five  days.  For  myself  I can  say  that  I 
never  in  all  my  life  felt  so  completely  exhausted  by  reason  of  combined  bodily 
and  mental  labor.  The  greater  part  of  the  forenoon  was  spent  in  rest,  but  we 
did  not  forget  that,  being  the  day  of  sacred  rest,  it  was  also  that  of  worship, 
and  we  united  together  as  usual  in  the  church  service,  remembering  in  our 
prayers  our  beloved  families  and  our  friends  in  Rome  and  in  America.  In  the 
afternoon  we  arrived  at  Keneh,  opposite  to  which,  a short  distance  from  the 
river,  is  the  temple  of  Tentyra,  or,  as  it  is  often  spelt,  Dendera.  Although  so 
much  fatigued,  we  could  not  pass  by  without  going  to  see  these  celebrated 
remains  of  antiquity,  and  we  accordingly  crossed  the  river  and  took  donkeys 
and  a guide. 


TEMPLE  OF  DENDERA. 

A ride  of  two  miles  over  a plain  covered  with  a coarse  tall  grass  and  with 
occasional  clumps  and  single  trees  of  the  doum  palm,  brought  us  to  those  con- 
fused heaps  of  rubbish,  brick,  and  fragments  of  earthenware,  which  in  Egypt 
designate  the  site  of  an  ancient  city.  The  temple,  though  surrounded  with 
these  heaps,  is  not  buried  by  them.  Against  portions  of  the  lower  courses  of 
the  outside  wall,  the  dirt  is  indeed  piled  up,  but  the  interior  is  free,  and  the 
whole  plan  of  the  edifice  can  easily  be  made  out,  more  perfectly,  indeed,  than 
that  of  any  ancient  building  we  have  yet  seen.  In  antiquity,  this  temple  can- 
not compare  with  the  sublime  ruins  we  have  just  left,  as  it  is  now  ascertained, 
by  deciphering  the  hieroglyphics,  to  have  been  erected  at  a period  as  late  as  the 
Roman  dominion  in  Egypt.  One  critic  has  said  that  “it  bears  extreme  evidence 


DECLINE  OF  EGYPTIAN  AKCHITECTUKE. 


125 


of  the  great  decadence  of  the  art  at  the  period  of  its  erection.”  “ The  spirit 
which  animated  the  early  ages  in  this  country  had  long  passed  away,  the  forms 
only  remained.  The  peculiar  turn  of  spirit  which  breathes  from  even  the  most 
insignificant  remains  of  the  Pharaonic  period  is  quite  wanting  here  ; it  is 
dead,  formal,  and  in  details  quite  uninteresting — or  if  one’s  curiosity  be  excited 
by  the  zodiacs  and  planispheres,  which  are  one  of  the  peculiar  features  of  this 
temple,  the  fact  again  recurs  to  the  mind  that  they  are,  after  all,  but  imitations 
of  what  we  have  already  seen  in  the  tombs  of  the  Pharaohs,  made  to  be  stared 
at,  not  felt  and  understood.”  We  were  probably  not  sufficiently  conversant 
with  the  subject  to  decide  upon  the  justice  of  this  criticism,  but  it  is  certain 
that  the  temple  of  Dendera,  though  it  exists  in  a far  more  perfect  state  than 
those  of  Thebes,  excited  in  us  far  less  admiration.  Had  we  visited  it  before 
going  to  Karnak,  the  first  impression  would  doubtless  have  been  different,  but 
not  even  in  this  case  could  it  have  produced  any  touch  of  the  feeling  of  the 
sublime.  No  one,  I think,  could  write  about  Karnak,  Meedinet  Abou,  or  the 
Memnonium,  in  a jocose  strain.  But  the  following  graphic  enumeration  of  the 
subjects  of  the  sculptures  upon  the  walls  of  the  temple  of  Dendera  would  never, 
I think,  suggest  the  thought  that  it  had  been  written  in  a spirit  of  inappropriate 
levity. 

“ There  is  not  the  surface  of  an  inch  unoccupied  by  sculpture  in  any  part  of 
the  interior.  Here  are  gods,  goddesses,  and  priests ; there  flowers,  symbols,  and 
sacred  animals : they  are  grouped  and  separate,  at  sacrifice  and  at  prayer. 
There  is  Apis,  Isis,  and  Ibis  ; Osiris,  Horus,  and  Annubis ; the  crux,  the  lotus, 
the  passive  lion,  and  the  hawk  ; and  these  in  all  forms  and  shapes,  and  under 
the  most  fanciful  varieties.  In  one  place  is  seen  the  mitred  head  of  a lion,  end- 
ing in  petticoats  below,  risum  teneatis  ? and  seated  with  all  the  dignity  of  Dido. 
Here  the  irresistible  power  of  beauty  appears,  represented  upon  an  inverted 
principle.  Near  this  latter  figure  is  a graceful  looking  youth,  who,  to  personify 
the  impudence  of  his  age,  is  endued  with  the  head  of  a dog.  Rapacity  is  exhi- 
bited in  a small  active  mortal,  with  the  face  of  a hawk ; meanness  and  falsehood 
are  sheltered  under  the  bare  lank  neck  and  crouching  head  of  the  Ibis  ardea  ; 
or  it  may  be  that  the  lion-headed  lady,  who  being  seated,  is  doubtless  a goddess, 


126 


ATHOR. — THE  ASHTORETH  OF  MILTON. 


represents  the  power  and  beauty  of  religion : the  other  figures,  the  divers 
depravities  of  those  who  professed  to  be  her  votaries.  At  all  events,  these 
things  always  were,  and  still  remain  mysterious  ; and,  until  they  are  satisfacto- 
rily explained,  every  man  has  a right  to  make  what  he  pleases  of  them.” 


TEMPLE  OF  DENDERA. 


This  lively  description  of  what  may  be  seen  upon  the  walls  and  ceiling  of 
the  temple,  gives  no  idea  of  its  general  form  and  the  arrangement  of  its  parts, 
nor  would  the  reader  be  able  to  gather  from  it  to  what  particular  deity  it  was 
dedicated.  A few  additional  notices,  therefore,  will  not  be  without  interest.  In 
giving  these  I shall  occasionally  avail  myself  of  the  assistance  of  a former 
traveller,  who  had  more  time  to  examine  these  ruins  than  we  could  command. 
We  were  there,  however,  about  three  hours,  sufficiently  long  to  verify  his 
account. 

The  temple,  I must  premise,  was  erected  in  honor  of  that  deity  who,  under 
different  names,  has  been  worshipped  wherever  idolatry  has  prevailed — Aphro- 
dite, Venus,  and,  in  Egypt,  Athor.  The  same  to  whom  our  great  epic  poet 
alludes  when  describing 

“ Those  who  from  the  pit  of  hell 
Roaming  to  seek  their  prey  on  earth,  durst  fix 


SYMBOLICAL  DESIGN  OF  THE  TEMPLE. 


127 


Their  seats  long  after  next  the  seat  of  God, 

Their  altars  by  His  altar.” 

With  these  in  troop 

Came  Ashtoreth,  whom  the  Phoenicians  call’d 
Astarte,  Queen  of  Heaven,  with  crescent  horns ; 

To  whose  bright  image  nightly  by  the  moon 
Sidonian  virgins  paid  their  vows  and  songs  ; 

In  Zion  also  not  unsung,  where  stood 

Her  temple  on  th’  offensive  mountain,  built 

By  that  uxorious  king,  whose  heart,  though  large, 

Beguil’d  by  fair  idolatresses,  fell 
To  idols  foul. 

The  whole  edifice  is  about  two  hundred  and  thirty  feet  in  length  by  about 
sixty  in  breadth,  as  nearly  as  we  could  judge  by  pacing  it  round.  Though  not 
buried  in  sand  and  rubbish,  as  I before  mentioned,  yet  it  is  surrounded  by 
heaps,  which  rise  in  front  to  half  the  height  of  the  columns.  From  these  you 
obtain  a near  view  of  the  outer  entablature,  and  can  look  down  into  the 
pronaos  or  vestibule.  This  consists  of  twenty-four  columns,  arranged  in  six 
rows  four  columns  deep,  three  rows  on  one  side  and  three  on  the  other  of  the 
main  entrance.  It  is  plainly  to  be  seen  that  the  great  design  of  the  architect 
was  to  embody  the  Egyptian  estimate  of  the  character  and  attributes  of  the 
Divinity  to  whom  the  temple  was  dedicated.  The  capitals,  the  sculpture,  the 
distribution  of  light,  and  all  the  interior  arrangements,  have  a unity  of  design, 
and  that  to  excite  not  a pure  and  holy,  but  an  earthly  and  sensual  love.  “ The 
cornices,  the  mouldings,  contain  the  richest  curves  ; the  capitals  of  the  columns 
consist  of  a woman’s  face  four  times  repeated,  which  appears  to  smile  on  you 
from  whatever  side  you  regard  it ; the  sculptures  for  the  most  part  represent 
scenes  of  joy  and  pleasure,  religious  festivals,  processions,  groups  charmed  by 
the  sounds  of  music,  figures  reclining  on  delightful  couches,  and  women  all 
softness  and  benevolence,  with  infants  of  different  ages  at  the  breast.” 

We  expected  to  find  the  interior  one  large  hall,  but  it  was  divided  into 
many  cells  and  chambers,  so  dark  that  we  were  obliged  to  make  a fire  in  the 


128 


SHAMEFUL  MUTILATION. — SYMBOLICAL  SUN  AND  MOON. 


larger  one,  in  order  to  give  light  enough  to  see  the  hieroglyphic  sculpture 
which  covered  the  walls  and  ceiling.  Many  of  these  designs,  especially  in  the 
upper  and  more  secret  chambers,  go  far  beyond  the  bounds  of  decency.  The 
light  of  fire  is  so  requisite  to  illuminate  these  dim  recesses,  that  the  smoke 
from  those  kindled  by  previous  travellers  has  in  many  parts  nearly  obliterated 
the  mystic  tracery  on  the  walls.  Going  through  a long  corridor  sculptured  like 
the  rest  and  half  filled  with  sand,  we  came  to  a flight  of  steps  which  led  to  the 
upper  apartments  and  the  roof,  constructed  of  huge  blocks  of  stone.  On  these 
are  carved  the  names  of  many  travellers,  mostly  from  America  and  England. 
Strange,  to  see  the  clumsy  carving  of  modern  names  and  initials,  side  by  side 
with  that  mighty  mystic  language  of  dead  ages,  whose  books  were  the  temples 
of  their  gods,  whose  leaves  were  blocks  of  stone ! We  have  never  felt  tempted 
to  transmit  our  names  to  posterity  in  this  way.  Here  especially  we  saw  regis- 
tered in  undying  characters  the  barbarism  of.  the  present  day,  for  there  was 
scarce  a sculpture  in  the  upper  part  of  the  building  which  was  not  more  or  less 
defaced  by  the  hammer  and  chisel,  and  in  one  of  the  chambers  we  saw  the 
place  where  the  Zodiac  of  Dendera  was  so  shamefully  cut  away  by  the  French. 
Among  innumerable  groups  which  still,  however,  remain,  was  one  which  was 
particularly  striking,  and  I cannot  better  picture  it  than  by  an  extract  from  the 
traveller  whom  I have  before  quoted.  “A  bearded  figure,  with  his  feet  turned 
up  to  his  head,  so  as  with  his  body  to  form  a complete  circle,  is  represented 
surrounded  with  diverging  beams,  like  the  rising  sun.  Directly  opposite  is  the 
figure  of  a woman,  with  legs  and  arms  outstretched  so  as  to  describe  a lunar 
crescent,  and  having  her  face  turned  towards  the  man,  who  seems  to  light  up 
and  kindle  her  whole  figure  with  his  rays.  This  is  obviously  a representation 
of  the  influence  of  the  sun  upon  the  moon.  On  the  sides  and  bosom  of  the 
female  are  numerous  diminutive  figures  of  mortals  adoring  the  full  moon,  on 
whose  disk  is  a woman  walking  on  her  hands  and  feet,  in  order  to  resemble  a 
cow,  the  symbol  of  Athor.  On  her  arms  is  depicted  a globe  with  human  legs, 
alluding  perhaps  to  that  article  of  their  philosophical  creed  which  taught  that 
the  world  was  a vast  animal,  the  same  on  a grand  as  man  on  a small  scale.”  In 
one  place  was  sculptured  a large  female  head,  supposed  to  be  a portrait  of 


CLEOPATEA. — HEAD  WINDS. 


129 


Cleopatra.  If  so,  slie  did  not  possess  the  remarkable  beauty  which  has  gener- 
ally been  ascribed  to  her.  The  question,  however,  we  must  leave  with  those 
who  are  versed  in  Egyptian  antiquities  and  can  read  the  hieroglyphics.  We 
passed  quickly  through  the  many  apartments,  and  found  all  alike  covered  with 
sculptures.  Innumerable  bats,  disturbed  by  our  approach,  flew  round  and 
round,  so  that  it  was  with  difficulty  we  could  keep  them  from  extinguishing 
our  torches.  We  took  a cursory  view  of  the  exterior  walls,  and  found  that 
where  not  purposely  destroyed,  the  sculptures  were  in  better  condition.  One 
thing  especially  struck  us  ; here  were  representations  of  human  sacrifices, 
which  plainly  confutes  the  doctrine  of  some  antiquarians,  who  say  that  the 
Egyptians  never  sacrificed  men. 

March  5 th. — We  left  Kftneh  last  evening,  and  hoped  to  make  good  pro- 
gress during  the  night ; but  we  had  a head  wind,  and  moreover  got  aground, 
so  that  this  morning  we  found  ourselves  little  advanced.  The  wind  continuing 
to  be  ahead,  we  were  obliged  to  moor  the  boat  to  the  shore,  where  we  remained 
all  day.  We  are  greatly  disappointed  in  having  our  progress  down  the  river 
so  much  retarded.  We  supposed  that  after  getting  up  to  the  point  of  our  desti- 
nation against  the  stream,  we  should  come  down  almost  without  effort.  We 
find,  however,  that  as  the  current  runs  but  about  two  miles  an  hour,  a head 
wind  of  any  considerable  strength  renders  it  very  difficult  to  row  against  it.  In 
a calm,  which  usually  comes  on  at  night,  we  make  pretty  good  progress.  Our 
men  having  rested  and  slept  nearly  all  day,  got  the  boat  under  way  about 
sunset. 

March  6th. — This  morning  with  the  sunrise,  the  wind  again  became  so 
strong  ahead  that,  after  an  hour  or  two’s  labor,  we  were  obliged  to  come  to  at 
the  bank  of  the  river  opposite  to  Farshiout.  This  place  we  noticed  on  our  way 
up,  in  consequence  of  seeing  on  the  bank  a large  sugar  manufactory,  erected  by 
Ibrahim  Pasha.  In  the  afternoon  we  crossed  the  river  in  a ferry-boat  to  see  it. 
Upon  landing  we  observed  large  numbers  of  pigeons  flying  about  and  on  the 
river  bank,  and  quite  an  extensive  village  of  dove-cotes,  which  from  our  boat 
had  appeared  like  castellated  houses.  Upon  getting  nearer  we  found  them 
square  mud-built  fabrics,  ten  or  twelve  feet  by  fifteen  or  twenty,  close  together 


17 


130 


EGYPTIAN  GUANO. — ANIMAL  CHARCOAL. 


and  in  two  or  three  rows,  forming,  as  it  were,  narrow  streets.  They  were  about 
twenty  feet  high,  and  their  tops  built  in  the  form  of  battlements  and  filled  with 
holes.  The  flight  and  incessant  cooing  of  the  birds  produced  quite  a noise. 
We  learned  that  they  were  kept  chiefly  for  their  manure,  which  is  found  to  be 
very  serviceable  in  raising  the  sugar-cane.  When  the  cane  is  about  three  feet 
high  the  manure  is  put  around  it  and  tends  greatly  to  strengthen  its  growth. 
This  reminds  us  of  what  is  related  of  the  famine  in  Samaria  (II.  Kings,  vi.  25), 
by  which  it  appears  that  the  use  of  guano  is  very  ancient.  This  whole  district 
abounds  with  the  cane,  and  is  in  the  possession  of  the  family  of  Ibrahim  Pasha. 

THE  SUGAR  FACTORY  AT  FARSHIOUT. 

We  went  to  the  factory,  and  were  conducted  through  it  by  Mr.  Fox,  an  English- 
man, who  has  charge  of  the  machinery,  the  whole  of  which  is  moved  by  steam. 
First  is  the  rolling-mill,  consisting  of  two  large  cast-iron  cylinders,  between 
which  the  cane  is  put,  and  as  it  passes  through  the  sap  is  caught  in  a trough 
underneath,  and  the  cane  flattened  out  is  discharged  on  the  other  side.  This 
refuse  of  the  cane  when  dried  for  about  ten  days  in  the  sun  forms  an  excellent 
fuel  for  the  furnace.  The  sap,  which  has  a milky  appearance,  is  conducted  to  a 
strainer,  through  which  it  passes  to  clear  it  from  fibrous  particles,  into  a cistern. 
Thence  it  is  pumped  by  machinery  into  boilers,  where  it  is  mixed  with  a portion 
of  lime  and  undergoes  its  first  purification.  It  is*  next  put  into  large  cylindrical 
filterers,  which  are  filled  with  charcoal  made  by  charring  bones  of  animals  in 
iron  vessels  from  which  the  air  is  excluded,  and  which  are  then  put  into  a fur- 
nace. These  bones  we  afterwards  saw  in  large  heaps,  and  were  told  that  many 
of  them  were  from  the  mummy  pits  at  Thebes,  and  others  from  the  desert,  the 
remains  of  camels  which  had  died  on  the  journey  and  which  had  accumulated 
on  the  route.  The  mummy  bones  were  principally  those  of  animals,  human 
bones  when  noticed  being  put  aside,  although  these  occasionally  found  their 
way  into  the  pile.  These  bones,  when  charred,  as  above  described,  are  broken 
by  a mill  to  the  size  of  large  gravel,  but  they  take  generally  the  cubic  shape. 
The  black  mass  of  animal  charcoal  being  thus  trodden  down  hard  into  the 


PROCESS  OF  SUGAR-MAKING. 


131 


filterers,  the  juice  drawn  from  the  boilers,  where  it  has  been  purified  with  lime, 
is  poured  in,  and  filtering  through,  runs  out  into  troughs,  acquiring  a much 
brighter  and  clearer  color  from  this  second  purification.  It  is  then  again 
pumped  up  and  made  to  fall  over  a succession  of  horizontal  pipes,  which  rise  to 
a considerable  height,  and  are  filled  with  steam,  and  as  it  falls  in  a continual 
shower  from  one  pipe  to  another  it  is  received  into  a receptacle  beneath.  By 
this  process  two  purposes  are  effected.  The  cool  sap  falling  on  the  pipes,  con- 
denses the  steam  within,  and  the  pipes  heated  by  the  steam  serve  to  evaporate 
a portion  of  the  watery  particles  from  the  syrup.  The  latter,  now  purified  and 
condensed  to  a certain  degree  by  this  evaporation,  is  conveyed  into  large  circu- 
lar receivers,  which  communicate  with  the  horizontal  pipes  just  mentioned. 
The  effect  of  this  contrivance  is  that  the  steam  of  the  boiling  sap  being  carried 
off  and  rapidly  condensed,  a vacuum  is  produced  and  the  sap  boils  at  a less 
degree  of  heat  than  it  otherwise  would  do,  and  thus  is  not  exposed  to  being 
burned.  The  purified  syrup  is  now  boiled  till  it  becomes  strong  enough  to 
granulate  and  form  into  a solid  mass.  It  is  then  put  into  iron  receivers,  of  the 
sugar-loaf  form,  where  it  is  allowed  to  harden  and  cool.  When  it  comes  out  it 
is  in  large  loaves,  but  of  a dingy  color,  like  brown  sugar.  In  this  form  it  is  an 
article  of  commerce,  and  a portion  is  sent  away  and  used  for  ordinary  consump- 
tion. But  another  portion  is  sent  to  Cairo,  where  it  is  again  melted  and  under- 
goes a similar  process  of  refining,  and  becomes  white  loaf-sugar. 

It  was  quite  interesting  to  see  and  understand  this  process  of  making  sugar 
from  the  cane.  But  when  we  heard  of  the  means  by  which  the  labor  attending 
the  manufacture  was  obtained,  and  how  it  was  paid,  we  could  not  repress  our 
indignation  at  the  cruel  and  avaricious  tyrant  who  was  the  proprietor  of  this 
establishment,  and  whose  family  now  owns  it.  The  machinery  is  managed  by 
an  Englishman,  who  very  kindly  conducted  us  through  the  works  and  gave  us 
all  the  information  we  asked.  The  process  of  manufacture  is  superintended  by 
a Frenchman,  whom  we  did  not  see.  These  are  well  paid,  or  of  course  they 
would  not  remain  here.  Then  there  are  other  superintendents  of  different  de- 
partments, partly  white  slaves  of  the  Pasha’s,  who  are  well  treated,  and  partly 
Arabs  of  the  better  class,  who  are  probably  well  enough  paid.  But  the  whole 


132 


OPPRESSION  OF  THE  HIRELING. 


amount  of  servile  labor  is  performed  by  men  and  boys,  who  are  pressed  for  this 
service  from  the  surrounding  villages.  Their  pay  is  from  fifteen  to  twenty-five 
paras  per  day,  that  is,  from  about  a cent  and  a half  to  two  cents  and  a half,  and 
this  not  punctually  paid,  nor  that  in  money,  but  in  molasses  from  the  manufac- 
tory, or  in  beans,  or  any  other  thing  that  is  most  convenient  to  the  Pasha,  and 
that  he  wishes  to  get  off'  his  hands.  This  the  poor  creatures  are  obliged  to  sell 
at  a reduced  price,  so  that  they  get  but  a small  part  of  their  wretched  pittance, 
and  this  at  uncertain  times.  Then  again  they  are  obliged  to  work  twenty -four 
hours  on  a stretch,  because  it  is  more  convenient  to  change  the  workmen  at 
these  long  than  at  shorter  periods.  The  consequence  of  all  this  is,  that  no 
voluntary  laborers  can  be  procured  for  the  Pasha’s  factory.  They  are  brought 
by  force,  and  are  compelled  to  stay  out  a certain  time.  We  saw  one  young 
man  with  a clog  on  his  leg,  and  were  told  it  was  put  there  to  prevent  his  run- 
ning away,  as  he  came  from  a distant  village.  When  laborers  are  wanted, 
notice  is  sent  to  the  Sheik  of  the  village,  and  he  is  obliged  to  make  up  a certain 
number  at  his  peril.  The  same  detestable  system  of  tyranny  is  practised  in 
reference  to  the  Pasha’s  lands.  They  are  cultivated  by  forced  labor,  and  for  a 
miserable  and  insufficient  amount  of  wages  ill  paid.  I venture  to  say,  that  there 
are  no  plantation  negroes  in  our  country  so  hard  worked,  so  poorly  fed  and 
clothed,  and  so  cruelly  treated,  as  these  Arab  fellahs.  But  I shall  have  more 
to  say  of  this  part  of  the  social  system  of  Egypt,  and  of  the  conduct  of  Mehe- 
met  Ali  and  his  family  towards  their  unfortunate  subjects. 

Returning  from  this  visit  to  the  sugar  manufactory,  we  saw  another  incon- 
testable proof  of  the  atrocious  tyranny  of  this  government.  In  the  ferry-boat 
that  took  us  over  were  eight  Arabs  returning  from  their  work,  and  of  the  eight, 
seven  were  maimed,  having  the  fore-finger  of  the  right  hand  cut  off.  We  sent 
our  dragoman,  as  a matter  of  curiosity,  to  look  at  the  next  boat  load,  which 
consisted  of  ten,  all  of  whom  were  maimed  in  the  same  manner.  We  had 
heard  that  this  artifice  was  adopted  by  the  poor  people  to  escape  military 
service,  and  that  for  the  same  reason  they  had  been  in  the  practice  of  putting 
out  one  of  their  eyes.  The  cruel  tyrant  however  rendered  this  self-inflicted 
mutilation  ineffectual  by  constituting  four  regiments  of  one-eyed  men,  and  of 


POLICY  OF  MEHEMET  ALI. — RIDE  TO  ABYDOS. 


138 


men  destitute  of  the  fore-finger.  What  stronger  evidence  can  be  adduced  of  a 
merciless  system  of  tyranny,  and  what  can  be  said  in  extenuation  of  the  con- 
duct of  such  a ruler  ? True  indeed,  Mehemet  Ali  has  rendered  Egypt  perfectly 
safe  to  the  foreign  traveller,  and  has  introduced  some  manufactures,  some  kinds 
of  agriculture,  as  for  example  cotton  and  indigo,  and  has  extended  trade.  But 
what  have  the  mass  of  the  people  benefited  by  all  this  ? Nothing  whatever. 
They  are  fewer  in  number,  poorer,  and  more  oppressed  than  before.  The 
moving  spring  of  all  his  policy  has  been  the  aggrandizement  of  himself  and 
family;  and  as  yet  I have  not  heard  of  a single  measure,  the  object  or  the 
effect  of  which  has  been  to  elevate  either  the  physical  or  the  moral  condition  of 
his  subjects.  His  son  Ibrahim  was  equally  selfish  and  more  avaricious.  What 
the  present  Pasha  Abbas  will  do  remains  to  be  seen,  but  his  accession  seems  to 
raise  no  favorable  hopes  of  amelioration  in  the  condition  of  this  unhappy  land. 

March  7th. — We  left  Farshiout  at  sunset,  the  wind  having  abated,  and 
by  rowing  all  night  arrived  in  good  season  in  the  morning  at  Girgeh. 
This  is  one  of  the  places  from  which  an  excursion  can  be  made  to  Arabat 
el  Matfoon,  the  ancient  Abydos. 


ABYDOS. 

The  visit  we  made  to  it  caused  us  no  detention,  for  the  head  wind 
grew  so  violent  that  we  could  not  possibly  have  made  any  progress.  We 
had  a long  ride  of  at  least  three  hours  before  us,  but  could  procure  no 
good  accommodation  for  it.  The  only  donkeys  we  could  find  had  no  bridles, 
and  but  a poor  apology  for  a saddle,  and  that  without  stirrups.  We  supplied 
their  place  as  well  as  we  could  with  ropes,  and  taking  our  attendants 
to  carry  a luncheon,  with  candles,  wood,  &c.,  for  lighting  the  dark  places 
in  the  ruins,  we  set  off.  The  ride,  though  long  and  very  fatiguing,  in  conse- 
quence of  our  being  so  badly  mounted,  was  yet  exceedingly  interesting.  The 
valley  of  the  Nile  stretches  out  here  into  a wide  plain  of  at  least  twelve  miles, 
from  the  river  to  the  foot  of  the  Libyan  hills,  where  Abydos  and  the  ruined 


134 


BEAUTIFUL  PLAIN. — DECEPTIVE  DISTANCES. 


temple  and  palace  we  were  to  visit,  were  situated.  This  plain  is  studded  with 
villages,  all  thickly  embowered  in  palm-trees,  and  the  intermediate  spaces  are 
rich  fields  of  wheat,  clover,  beans  and  peas,  with  occasional  pasturage,  on  which 
flocks  of  buffaloes,  sheep  and  goats,  with  camels  and  donkeys,  were  feeding. 
Our  road  was  sometimes  on  the  banks,  through  the  bed  of  canals,  now  dry,  for 
conveying  the  water  of  the  Nile  into  the  interior,  but  principally  by  a donkey- 
path,  here  skirting  and  there  passing  through  the  villages,  and  winding  amongst 
the  fields.  These  villages,  which  were  now  like  mounds  covered  with  mud- 
huts  and  clumps  of  trees,  appear,  when  the  Nile  rises  above  the  plain,  like  so 
many  little  islands.  The  inhabitants  can  then  only  communicate  with  each 
other  by  boats  or  by  swimming,  which  is  very  common  amongst  the  young 
people,  both  sexes  acquiring  this  art  in  early  childhood.  We  were  here  particu- 
larly struck  with  what  we  had  often  noticed  before,  the  illusion  as  to  the  real 
distance  of  objects ; a deception  produced  by  the  combined  effect  of  the  dead 
level  and  the  clear  atmosphere.  The  Libyan  hills  and  the  point  of  our  destina- 
tion seemed  very  near,  and  we  repeatedly  imagined  that  when  we  had  passed 
the  next  village  before  us  we  should  be  there ; but  the  palm-covered  mounds 
rose  up  one  after  another  as  if  there  would  be  no  end  to  the  succession,  and 
between  the  villages  we  often  found  that  it  required  a long  ride  to  reach  what 
appeared  to  be  only  a few  furlongs  from  us.  At  last,  however,  we  reached  the 
village  upon  the  very  edge  of  the  desert,  near  which  are  the  ruins  of  Abydos. 
Here,  as  in  all  other  places  which  are  the  sites  of  ancient  cities,  you  pass  over 
large  heaps  of  blackish  dust  filled  with  fragments  of  stone  and  broken  pottery. 
Beyond  these  we  came  to  hills  of  drifting  sand,  and  the  wind  being  very  high, 
we  could  easily  perceive  how  the  ruins  that  were  the  object  of  our  visit 
became  filled  to  the  very  roof,  so  that  from  the  sand  we  stepped  directly  upon 
the  immense  slabs  of  stone,  many  of  them  twenty  feet  long,  which  formed  the 
roof  of  the  temple  and  the  palace.  Over  this  we  walked  and  could  see  its 
extent ; but  in  order  to  reach  the  interior  we  had  to  crawl  through  an  opening 
made  beneath  the  entablature  and  between  the  columns,  and  kept  open  proba- 
bly by  a current  of  wind.  It  was  so  choked  up,  however,  that  we  could  obtain 
only  an  imperfect  idea  of  what  it  once  was.  But  we  saw  enough  to  convince 


TEMPLE  AND  PALACE  OF  ABYDOS. — ANTIQUITY  OF  THE  ARCH.  135 


us  of  its  former  magnificence.  W e could  not  see  the  length  of  a single  column, 
but  we  were  upon  a level  with,  the  capitals  and  with  the  upper  section  of  some 
of  the  shafts,  and  were  within  reaching  distance  of  the  flat  roof  of  stone.  The 
roof,  walls,  and  pillars,  were  all  sculptured  in  the  richest  manner  with  figures 
and  hieroglyphics  in  bass-relief.  All  these  must  have  been  painted,  for  in 
some  places,  more  protected  than  others,  we  could  distinguish  the  colors  which, 
as  in  other  Egyptian  buildings,  were  vivid  red,  blue,  yellow,  and  green.  But 
there  was  one  portion  of  this  edifice  not  entirely  *filled  up  with  sand,  which  was 
of  special  interest,  and  that  was  a range  of  vaulted  chambers  that  looked 
towards  the  Libyan  hills.  The  vaults  were  formed  by  massive  stones,  placed 
edgewise  upon  the  separating  walls,  and  then  hollowed  out  in  the  form  of  a 
regular  semicircular  arch.  This  arch  and  the  walls  on  both  sides  were  richly 
sculptured.  We  removed  the  sand  for  some  little  distance  on  one  side,  and  a 
figure  appeared,  in  bass-relief,  upon  a beautiful  cream-colored  stone  of  very  fine 
texture.  We  could  not,  however,  remove  enough  sand  to  ascertain  more  than 
that  the  figure  was  probably  that  of  some  person  offering  incense  to  an  idol 
divinity ; but  the  execution,  in  respect  to  grace  and  perfection  of  chiselling, 
seemed  fully  to  equal,  if  not  to  surpass,  any  thing  of  the  kind  we  had  seen. 
Could  the  whole  building  be  cleared  of  the  sand  which  now  almost  entirely 
buries  it,  we  felt  persuaded  that  a very  beautiful  specimen  of  ancient  art  would 
be  developed.  It  is  said  to  be  one  of  the  oldest  of  the  remains  of  this  whole 
region  of  antiquities,  and  was  erected  by  Rameses  the  Second,  the  Sesostris  of 
the  Greeks.  After  devoting  some  time  to  the  examination  of  these  remains, 
we  proceeded  to  the  ancient  tombs  near  them,  with  the  view  of  seeing  the 
arches  of  brick  which  were  said  to  exist  there,  and  which,  as  well  as  in  the 
instance  of  another  tomb  at  Thebes,  prove  that  the  principle  of  the  arch  was 
known  to  this  remarkable  people  centuries  before  it  was  used  by  the  Romans. 
After  some  trouble  with  our  Arab  guides,  whom  we  could  not  make  to  compre- 
hend what  we  were  in  search  of,  we  discovered  an  opening  into  a tomb,  and, 
clearing  away  the  dirt  and  rubbish,  we  were  able  distinctly  to  make  out  a 
course  of  brick- work  constructed  precisely  in  the  same  manner  in  which  a vault 
would  be  built  in  our  day. 


186 


LORD  LINDSAY’S  VISION  OF  DELIGHT. — BEDOUIN  ARABS. 


Returning  by  a different  route,  as  we  passed  by  the  rear  of  the  village,  we 
came  upon  a small  but  very  pretty  circular  pond,  with  its  bank  covered  with, 
a grove  of  palms  and  surrounded  by  sand-hills.  This  we  supposed  to  be  the 
lake  so  enthusiastically  described  by  Lord  Lindsay  in  his  letters  from  Egypt, 
and  for  which  we  had  made  inquiries  without  effect.  “ Think  then,”  says  he, 
“ of  our  astonishment  and  delight  at  coming  suddenly  on  a lonely  little  lake, 
nestled  in  a hollow  of  the  sand-hills  that  form  a sort  of  amphitheatre  around  it, 
girdled  with  graceful  date-trees,  and  the  doum  or  Theban  palm  with  its  fantastic 
head-gear,  like  a gay  coquette  by  the  side  of  a lovely  single-hearted  woman — 
of  such  the  date-tree  were  a fit  emblem.  I cannot  express  to  you  the  pleasure 
the  discovery  of  this  little  lake  gave  me,  and  which  will  be  as  vivid  years  hence 
in  recollection  as  when  first  it  gleamed  before  me,  ‘a  vision  of  delight.’  ” This 
description  certainly  prepared  us  for  something  more  than  we  saw.  But  if  we 
had  not  associations  which  could  to  us  as  to  Lord  Lindsay  color  up  the  scene 
into  “ a vision  of  delight,”  it  was  certainly  a grateful  relief  to  the  eyes  to  look 
from  the  arid  rocks  and  sands  of  the  desert  upon  this  little  pond,  with  its  grace- 
ful belt  of  palm-trees.  But  after  riding  for  some  time  upon  the  edge  of  the 
desert,  we  turned  again  to  a scene  which  was  indeed  refreshing,  that  rich  and 
variegated  plain  which  lay  between  the  desolate  scene  we  were  leaving  and  the 
river.  We  crossed  it  at  a different  point  from  that  we  had  before  taken,  and 
our  path  for  a long  distance  was.  on  the  top  of  an  embankment  that  serves  the 
purpose  of  a road  when  the  river  is  at  its  height  and  covers  the  surrounding 
plains.  Leaving  the  embankment,  we  again  turned  into  the  fields  and  passed 
by  the  tents  of  some  Bedouin  Arabs,  who  had  come  from  the  desert  for  grass 
and  pasture  for  their  camels.  One,  whom  we  supposed  to  be  the  head  of  the 
family,  was  sitting  at  the  door  of  his  tent,  and  around  him  on  the  green  in  front 
were  children  playing,  some  domestics  and  cattle,  and  within  the  tent,  one  of 
the  curtains  of  which  was  up,  we  could  see  persons,  probably  his  wife  or  wives 
and  other  women,  quietly  seated  at  some  handywork.  The  whole  was  a peace- 
ful scene,  such  as  might  have  been  often  contemplated  in  the  times  of  the  patri- 
archs. The  chief  difference  between  the  two  probably  was,  that  the  dweller  in 
tents  before  us  had  one  element  of  quiet  luxury  which  the  other  did  not 


ILLUSTRATIONS  OF  THE  BIBLE. — MILITARY  STATION. 


137 


possess,  in  the  long  pipe  which  he  was  smoking.  On  our  way  we  met  several 
flocks  returning  from  pasture,  and  uniformly  noticed  that  the  sheep  and  goats 
were  mingled  together.  We  also  passed  by  an  extensive  threshing-floor,  on 
which  were  several  oxen  treading  out  the  corn.  I have  mentioned  these  par- 
ticulars as  having  been  combined  together  in  our  evening’s  ride,  but  hardly  a 
day  passes  in  which  something  is  not  presented  to  us  that  either  illustrates  or 
recalls  modes  of  life  with  which  the  Bible  has  made  us  familiar.  Again  this 
evening,  as  in  the  morning,  we  have  been  constantly  misled  by  distances  from 
place  to  place  seeming  very  much  shorter  than  they  really  were.  At  last,  how- 
ever, we  arrived  at  Grirgeh  and  our  boat,  after  a very  fatiguing  though  an 
interesting  excursion. 

March  8 th.  — We  this  morning  reached  Soohag,  after  rowing  all  night. 
Here  again  after  sunrise  the  wind  became  so  strong  that  we  could  not  resist 
it,  even  with  the  help  of  the  current,  and  were  obliged  to  come  to  at  the 
bank.  At  this  place  one  of  the  regiments  of  the  Pasha’s  cavalry  is  stationed, 
and  having  found  a young  officer  who  spoke  French,  we  entered  into  conversa- 
tion with  him  and  found  him  quite  an  intelligent  and  agreeable  person.  He 
informed  us  that  he  had  recently  returned  from  the  Polytechnic  School  at  Paris, 
where  he  had  been  five  years  pursuing  his  military  education.  One  of  the  sons 
of  Mohammed  Ali  and  one  of  Ibrahim  Pasha  being  sent  there  for  this  purpose, 
a number  of  young  men  were  sent  as  the  companions  of  their  studies,  and  of 
these  our  new  acquaintance  was  one.  He  politely  offered  to  show  us  the  bar- 
racks, and  introduce  us  to  the  colonel  of  the  regiment.  We  accordingly  went 
with  him,  and  saw  the  barracks,  which  were  built  of  the  ordinary  mud-brick, 
hardened  in  the  sun  and  cemented  with  clay  — a little  better  constructed,  how- 
ever, than  the  houses  of  the  village.  The  soldiers  are  nearly  all  married,  and 
their  wives  and  children  follow  them,  and  mud-huts  are  built  for  them  in 
the  neighborhood  of  the  barracks.  These  surrounded  a hollow  square,  in 
the  middle  of  which  was  a water-tank,  and  though  the  whole  establishment 
would  be  considered  a miserable  apology  for  barracks  in  Europe  or  America, 
yet  in  the  midst  of  a Fellah  village,  with  its  wretched  huts  and  dirt,  it  presented, 
by  contrast,  a very  respectable  appearance.  The  colonel  we  found  in  his  quar- 


ts 


138 


AN  EGYPTIAN  COLONEL  COMMANDANT. 


ters,  over  one  of  the  main  entrances.  When  we  were  introduced  to  him  he 
was  seated  on  Turkish  carpets  upon  his  divan,  encompassed  by  cushions  and 
smoking  his  pipe.  He  received  us  very  courteously,  without  moving,  however, 
from  his  seat,  as  this  is  not  customary,  and  ordered  chairs  to  be  brought  for  us. 
The  first  civility  was  to  offer  us  the  pipe  he  was  smoking,  and  to  direct  others 
to  be  brought,  as  also  coffee.  We  were  obliged  to  converse  with  him  through 
our  young  friend  as  interpreter,  as  he  understood  no  European  language. 
Indeed  this  officer  was  the  only  one  in  the  regiment  who  knew  any  language 
but  his  own,  and  he  informed  us  that  the  colonel  could  neither  read  nor  write. 
He  had  the  appearance,  however,  of  a man  of  energy  and  decision,  and  was 
very  probably  a good  executive  officer.  According  to  our  informant’s  state- 
ment, science  is  but  little  encouraged  in  the  army,  and  the  possession  of  it  com- 
mands but  little  respect  from  the  majority  of  the  officers.  On  the  contrary, 
they  rather  laugh  at  it  as  they  do  at  the  Frank  dress  and  Frank  manners. 
Having  been  informed  that  the  colonel  could  neither  read  nor  write,  we  were 
prepared  for  the  want  of  information  he  manifested  upon  all  questions  relating 
to  the  state  of  Europe,  and  also  for  his  want  of  curiosity  upon  these  points. 
Although  told  that  we  were  recently  from  there,  and  were  also  the  citizens  of  a 
land  much  farther  off,  the  only  questions  he  put  to  us  were  whether  we  had  a 
king  and  whether  the  weather  was  cold  with  us.  Taking  leave  of  the  colonel, 
we  were  conducted  through  the  village  and  took  a short  walk  into  the  surround- 
ing country,  from  whence  we  saw  at  a distance,  on  the  borders  of  the  desert, 
the  White  Monastery,  as  it  is  called,  now  a Coptic  village ; but  we  were  too 
much  fatigued  by  our  yesterday’s  excursion  to  go  to  it.  After  parting  with 
our  new  acquaintance  and  returning  to  our  boat,  we  shortly  received  a note 
from  him  in  French,  saying  that  if  we  were  to  remain  any  time  he  should  be 
glad  of  the  privilege  of  calling  upon  us  again  for  the  sake  of  our  conversation, 
which  had  been  a great  source  of  pleasure  to  him.  The  wind  still  detaining  us, 
we  invited  him  to  dine,  and  while  with  us  he  talked  a good  deal  about  his  life 
in  Paris,  and  the  contrast  he  found  in  coming  where  there  was  not  an  indi- 
vidual with  whom  he  could  sympathize  or  hold  any  intercourse  that  could 
at  all  satisfy  a cultivated  mind.  So  far  as  his  present  life  was  concerned,  his 


ABOOTEEG. — CARAVANSERAI. 


139 


education  seemed  to  be  rather  a misfortune  than  an  advantage,  because  it  had 
made  him  acquainted  with  a state  of  society  and  with  intellectual  pleasures 
from  which  he  was  now  totally  cut  off.  He  had  hopes,  however,  that  should 
the  young  son  of  the  Pasha,  with  whom  he  had  been  educated,  and  who  was 
his  friend,  ever  come  into  authority,  his  situation  would  be  improved  by  being 
transferred  perhaps  to  Cairo,  where  he  could  enjoy  a higher  state  of  society. 
The  wind  becoming  favorable,  we  took  a hasty  farewell  of  our  guest  and  the 
boat  pushed  off. 

March  9 th. — After  a favorable  run  all  night  and  the  greater  part  of  the 
day  we  arrived  at  Abooteeg,  when  we  came  to  for  the  purpose  of  resting  the 
crew,  who  had  been  at  the  oar  ail  night  and  most  of  the  day.  This  village  is 
beautifully  situated  at  a short  distance  from  the  river,  and  is  surrounded  by  an 
extensive  and  fertile  plain.  One  portion  of  it  struck  us  with  admiration ; — a field 
of  beautiful  wheat  in  the  ear,  extending  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  level  as  the 
sea,  except  the  green  waves  which  the  wind  made  over  its  surface,  just  moving 
it  sufficiently  to  give  it  life.  There  must  have  been  a number  of  thousands  of 
acres  all  in  one  body  without  a perceptible  division.  It  was  owned  and  culti- 
vated, as  we  were  informed,  by  the  fellahs  of  the  village ; but  as  their  separate 
portions  were  marked  only  by  stones,  no  dividing  line  was  visible.  Walking 
along  the  mound  which  overlooked  this  magnificent  sea  of  waving  corn,  we 
came  to  the  village,  and  learning  that  there  was  a Coptic  convent  there,  we 
decided  to  make  it  a visit.  Winding  through  several  streets  of  houses,  built  as 
usual  with  unburnt  mud  brick,  and  all  of  the  color  of  the  soil,  we  passed  a 
small  bazaar,  and  then  a caravanserai  or  place  of  accommodation  for  travellers, 
and  the  only  kind  of  inn  which  can  be  found  out  of  Cairo  and  Alexandria.  It  was 
a building  in  the  form  of  a hollow  square,  of  two  stories,  and  around  the  upper 
one  was  an  interior  gallery,  which  was  reached  by  stairs,  and  served  as  a com- 
munication with  the  rooms  above.  These,  like  those  below,  were  small  square 
apartments  with  a single  door  and  without  windows.  In  a yard  which  led  out 
of  the  inner  court  was  accommodation  for  horses  and  mules.  It  was  erected  by 
merchants,  and  principally  for  the  use  of  this  class  of  persons,  who,  with  the 
exception  of  the  annual  pilgrims  to  Mecca,  are  almost  the  only  travellers  in  this 


140 


LIFE  OF  THE  EGYPTIAN  TRAVELLING  MERCHANT. 


country.  The  traveller  arriving  goes  at  once  to  this  place,  and  takes  one  of 
these  apartments,  the  key  of  which  is  given  up  to  him,  and  it  becomes  his 
habitation  and  the  place  of  deposit  for  his  goods  while  he  remains.  His  mat 
and  carpet  are  his  seat  by  day  and  his  bed  by  night.  These  he  always  carries 
with  him,  together  with  his  pipe,  and  this  is  all  the  furniture  he  needs.  He 
gets  his  cup  of  coffee  from  a coffee-house  near  by ; and  his  mess  of  rice,  with  fowl 
or  mutton,  which  he  eats  with  his  fingers.  When  he  has  made  his  purchases  or 
sold  his  goods,  as  the  case  may  be,  he  loads  his  donkeys  or  camels,  rolls  up  his 
mat  and  carpet,  pays  a small  sum  for  the  accommodation  he  has  had,  and  leaves 
the  little  room  empty,  as  he  found  it,  till  the  next  traveller  takes  possession. 
In  this  caravanserai  there  must  have  been  some  thirty  or  forty  rooms.  The 
square  space  in  the  centre  was  covered  with  an  awning  to  protect  it  from  the 
sun,  and  was  swept  perfectly  clean,  and  there  was  an  abundant  supply  of  water 
near.  In  our  walk  we  visited  a similar  establishment,  and  while  examining  it 
we  were  asked  if  we  wished  to  occupy  one  of  the  rooms,  and  we  were  at  liberty 
to  do  so.  To  be  obliged  to  resort  to  such  an  inn  when  travelling,  would  to  us 
seem  to  be  a very  comfortless  thing.  But  in  this  climate,  always  warm,  and 
where  the  rain  seldom  falls,  and  then  but  for  a very  short  time,  and  with  the 
Arab  habits  of  eating  and  drinking,  this  is  all  the  accommodation  the  travelling 
merchant  needs,  or  would  use,  even  if  more  were  offered  to  him. 


VISIT  TO  A COPTIC  BISHOP. 

The  convent  to  which  we  now  directed  our  steps,  proved  to  be  a neat  build- 
ing of  burnt  brick,  on  two  sides  of  an  inclosed  court,  which  we  entered  by  a 
small  door.  We  found  that  the  Coptic  Bishop  inhabited  it,  and  that  there  were 
a number  of  other  inmates,  but  whether  they  were  monks  or  only  priests  we 
did  not  ascertain,  as  we  found  it  difficult  to  make  our  communications  and 
receive  answers  through  our  dragoman,  who  acted  as  interpreter.  When  we 
were  announced  the  Bishop  came  into  the  court,  which  was  surrounded  by  a 
sort  of  colonnade,  to  receive  us.  Chairs  were  placed  for  us,  but  he  seated  him- 


PLAN  OF  A COPTIC  CHURCH. 


141 


self  upon  a mat  cross-legged  under  one  of  the  colonnades.  Now  came  in  quite 
a number  of  men,  twenty  or  thirty  at  least,  brought  together  I suppose  by  the 
news  of  our  arrival.  As  they  came  in  they  each  went  up  to  the  Bishop  and 
kissed  his  hand,  and  then  seated  themselves  on  the  ground  in  a line  all  around 
us.  We  asked  a number  of  questions  about  the  customs  and  rites  of  the  Church, 
but  owing  to  the  difficulty  of  interpretation,  we  could  not  obtain  very  definite 
information.  In  the  course  of  the  interview,  a drink  of  sugar  and  water  was 
brought  to  us  in  glass  mugs,  and  afterwards  coffee.  The  Bishop  invited  us  and 
urged  us  to  dine  with  him,  and  to  take  accommodations  at  the  convent  as  long 
as  we  needed  them.  We  were  obliged  to  decline,  on  account  of  the  necessity 
of  returning  to  our  boat  by  sundown,  when  the  wind  would  abate  and  suffer  us 
to  proceed  on  our  voyage.  Wishing,  however,  to  see  the  Church  before  we  left, 
the  Bishop  sent  a person  to  accompany  us,  as  it  was  some  little  distance  out  of 
the  village.  But  instead  of  one,  we  were  followed  by  a whole  troop  of  men 
and  boys,  whom  curiosity  had  assembled  about  us,  together  with  a number  of 
beggars,  amongst  whom  there  was  a large  proportion  of  the  blind.  A walk  of 
about  a quarter  of  a mile  beyond  the  houses,  and  upon  a mound  of  rubbish 
which  seemed  to  mark  the  site  of  a former  town,  brought  us  to  what  we  were 
curious  to  see,  a Coptic  Church.  Externally,  there  was  nothing  to  be  seen  but 
a plain  wall  of  mud-brick,  with  two  or  three  small  cupolas  rising  just  above  it. 
Passing  through  a low  and  narrow  door  and  a small  court-yard,  we  entered 
another  low  doorway  and  went  through  two  small  dark  ante-rooms  into  the 
Church.  This  we  found  to  be  large  enough  to  contain  about  four  or  five  hun- 
dred persons,  but  of  very  ordinary  structure  and  materials.  It  had,  however,  a 
central  nave  and  side  aisles,  separated  by  two  rows  of  round  and  short  brick 
columns.  Upon  these,  with  pointed  arches,  were  the  walls  of  a sort  of  cleres- 
tory with  small  square  windows.  There  were  two  transverse  screens  of  open 
wood-work,  which  marked  out  the  place  for  the  males  of  the  congregation,  the 
first  for  boys  and  younger  persons,  the  second  for  the  more  aged  men.  The 
women  were  in  a separate  apartment  on  one  side,  and  entered  by  a side  door, 
where  men  were  not  admitted.  A third  screen  of  close  wood- work,  and  more 
ornamented,  was  the  altar-screen.  Beyond  this  last  were  three  compartments, 


142 


HOSPITALITY  OF  THE  BISHOP. — SONG  OF  THE  BOATMEN. 


covered  by  three  small  oven-shaped  domes,  pierced  with  round  and  square  holes 
to  admit  light.  These  compartments  communicated  wfith  each  other  by  side- 
doors,  and  in  the  centre  of  each  was  a stone  erection,  the  middle  one  the  altar, 
and  the  side  ones  for  the  priests  to  stand  around  when  they  assisted  at  the  service. 
The  Bishop’s  chair  was  in  the  central  compartment,  on  one  side.  Outside  of  the 
altar-screen  was  a square  desk  on  legs,  from  which  the  Scriptures  were  read  to 
the  people,  who  stand  or  sit  on  the  matted  floor.  Upon  and  above  the  altar- 
screen  were  hung  several  small  wretched  daubs  of  the  Virgin  and  child,  Saint 
George  and  the  dragon,  and  some  other  saints.  The  whole  church  was  dingy 
and  dirty,  and  the  smell  was  such  as  to  give  a poor  opinion  of  the  habits  of 
cleanliness  amongst  this  people  even  in  their  sacred  things.  We  inquired  for 
the  font,  and  were  pointed  to  a stone  basin  sunk  in  the  floor  in  the  middle  of 
the  first  compartment  after  entering  the  door.  Leaving  the  Church,  we  returned 
to  the  convent  and  had  some  little  conversation  with  the  Bishop,  whose  name 
we  learned  was  Aboona  Taseyos,  Aboona  being  equivalent  to  the  title  of 
Bishop.  He  expressed  his  regret  again  that  we  could  not  stay  and  dine  with 
him,  and  we  shook  hands  and  bade  him  farewell.  He  was  a man  of  about  forty- 
five  years  of  age,  of  a pleasant  expression  of  countenance,  and  mild  and  digni- 
fied manners.  His  complexion  was  dark  as  that  of  the  Arabs,  and  his  beard 
full  and  black. 

W e returned  to  our  boat,  accompanied  by  a number  of  men  and  boys,  Cop- 
tic Christians,  and  found  that  the  Bishop  had  sent  by  them  a present  of  a sheep 
and  a large  basket  of  bread,  in  the  form  of  round  cakes,  which  proved  to  be  of 
an  excellent  quality.  We  sent  back  by  the  messengers  an  acknowledgment 
from  our  boat  in  return,  and  left  Abooteeg,  well  pleased  with  our  visit. 

March  10th.  — Our  sailors  having  had  some  little  rest  yesterday,  were 
all  night  toiling  at  the  oar.  I awoke  several  times  and  listened  to  its 
measured  splash  in  the  water,  and  to  the  songs  of  the  boatmen.  They  seem 
to  have  an  infinite  number,  although  the  style  is  very  similar.  They  relieve 
the  labor  by  singing  the  greater  part  of  the  time  while  they  are  at  work.  The 
burden  or  chorus,  in  which  they  all  join,  seems  to  come  in  at  the  end  of  every 
line,  and  the  solo  part  is  taken  up  by  one  and  another.  They  all  sing,  and 


DEGRADATION  OF  THE  COPTIC  CHRISTIANS. 


143 


indeed  the  Arabs  generally  appear  to  be  a musical  people.  The  songs  of  the 
sailors  are  often  interrupted,  especially  when  there  is  a hard  pull,  by  a musical 
shout,  Allah  Hayle. , which  means  God  help , and  is  the  substitute  for  the  “yo-he- 
yo  ” of  our  sailors. 

This  morning  we  reached  Manfaloot,  and  seeing  a boat  with  the  English  flag 
at  the  bank,  we  stopped  for  a short  time  to  get  news  from  Cairo.  W e found  on 
board  the  Rev.  Mr.  Kreuse,  one  of  the  missionaries  from  the  Church  Mission- 
ary Society  to  the  Copts.  He  was  on  a missionary  tour  to  distribute  Bibles, 
Testaments,  Psalters,  and  religious  tracts  to  this  people.  He  informed  us  that 
they  received  them  very  gladly,  but  he  feared  that  but  little  good  had  yet  been 
effected  amongst  them  by  all  the  labors  of  the  Society.  He  represented  them 
as  being  in  a very  degraded  state,  ignorant  and  superstitious,  and  as  to  moral 
character,  inferior  to  the  Mohammedans  around  them.  They  adhere  pertina- 
ciously to  the  Coptic  language,  although  not  even  the  priests  understand  more 
than  a few  words  of  it.  Their  liturgy  is  always  recited  in  it,  and  the  Scriptures 
are  read,  but  a translation  of  them  in  Arabic  is  at  the  same  time  read  to  the 
people.  After  visiting  Mr.  K.  and  learning  from  him  the  latest  intelligence 
from  Europe,  that  all  was  quiet  at  Rome,  which  was  a great  relief  to  us,  we 
went  on  shore  and  walked  through  the  bazaar,  which  consists  of  several  narrow 
streets  with  shops  on  each  side,  and  covered  by  an  awning.  Hearing  that  there 
was  also  a Coptic  church,  and  that  we  might  be  in  time  for  the  service,  which 
we  were  told  was  celebrated  every  day  in  Lent,  we  went  to  it,  but  either  there 
was  no  service  or  it  was  over.  The  church  was  similar  to  the  one  we  saw  yes- 
terday, but  not  so  large,  and  much  more  filthy.  We  staid  in  it  but  a short  time, 
yet  when  we  got  to  our  boat  we  found  ourselves  covered  with  fleas,  which  we 
had  no  doubt  brought  with  us  from  the  dirty  matting  with  which  the  floor  was 
covered.  We  had  hoped  to  obtain  the  luxury  of  a bath  at  Manfaloot,  but  we 
found  that  the  building  had  been  carried  away,  with  a considerable  part  of  the 
town,  by  the  encroachments  of  the  river.  The  whole  place  seems  destined  to 
fall  in  this  way,  the  bank  being  undermined  and  caving  in  piece  after  piece, 
and  all  efforts  to  ward  off  the  destruction  have  been  hitherto  fruitless.  Leaving 
Manfaloot,  we  continued  our  progress  down  stream,  rowing  all  the  time.  We 


144 


INTERVIEW  WITH  PILGRIMS. — THEIR  MODE  OF  LIFE. 


had  a fine  view  in  passing  of  the  precipitous  cliffs  of  Gebel  Aboofayda,  at  the 
foot  of  which  the  river  formerly  ran,  but  it  is  now  leaving  this  side  and  making 
encroachments  on  the  opposite  shore,  from  which  cause  Manfaloot  is  suffering  so 
much.  These  cliffs,  like  many  we  have  seen,  are  filled  with  grottos  and  tombs, 
the  square  openings  of  which  are  plainly  visible. 

A little  beyond  this  we  brought  the  boat  to  the  bank  of  the  river  for  the 
purpose  of  giving  the  men  a few  hours’  repose.  After  eating  their  dinner  they 
jumped  on  shore,  wrapped  themselves  in  their  large  brown  loose-gowns,  and 
were  soon  asleep.  A short  distance  from  us,  on  the  shore,  we  noticed  four 
Mussulmen  kneeling  and  bowing  at  their  devotions  towards  Mecca.  One  was 
in  front,  having  on  a green  turban,  the  sign  of  his  being  a descendant  from  the 
prophet ; the  other  three  were  in  a row  behind  him.  They  were  all  of  a lighter 
complexion  than  the  Arabs.  We  had  some  curiosity  to  converse  with  them, 
which  we  were  enabled  to  do  with  the  aid  of  our  dragoman  as  interpreter.  We 
learned  that  they  were  from  Tangiers,  and  were  returning  home  from  a pilgrim- 
age to  Mecca.  They  had  come  by  the  way  of  Malta  to  Alexandria,  ascended 
the  Nile  to  Keneh,  and  from  thence  crossed  the  desert  to  Cosseir,  where  they 
took  a vessel  for  the  opposite  shore  of  the  Bed  sea.  They  were  now  returning 
by  the  same  route,  and  expected  to  be  at  home  in  about  eight  months  from  the 
time  of  their  departure.  The  boat  in  which  they  were  was  filled  with  other 
pilgrims.  We  asked  them  if  they  did  not  find  the  journey  tedious  ; but  they 
said  not  at  all,  in  consequence  of  having  society  and  conversation  all  the  way, 
and  stopping  a day  or  two  occasionally  to  go  on  shore,  get  provisions  and  recruit 
themselves.  This  sort  of  pilgrim  life  on  the  Nile  may  be  very  agreeable,  asso- 
ciating the  performance  of  a religious  duty,  which  is  to  bring  its  own  recom- 
pense, with  an  easy  and  idle  life  of  travel  without  fatigue  ; but  to  pilgrims  who 
come  from  other  quarters,  when  long  and  tedious  journeys  are  required,  it  is 
a very  different  matter ; and  of  the  thousands  who  go  annually  to  Mecca  the 
proportion  of  those  whose  lives  fall  a sacrifice  to  their  superstition,  we  are 
informed,  is  very  considerable.  These  pilgrims  were  all  young  men,  and  the 
descendant  of  the  prophet  a person  of  some  rank,  being  distantly  related  to  the 
Sultan.  They  joined  their  boat  to  go  along  leisurely  to  their  home,  and  we 


A HERMIT. — THE  CHURCH  SERVICE. 


145 


ours,  anxious  to  make  the  best  of  our  way  to  perform  our  pilgrimage  to  Jerusa- 
lem and  return  at  the  earliest  practicable  time  to  our  dear  families  at  Home. 
An  old  man  with  a white  beard  here  presented  himself  on  the  bank  of  the 
river,  holding  up  a blue  flag,  on  which  there  was  an  inscription  in  Arabic.  He 
seemed  to  be  speaking  very  earnestly,  but  we  could  not  hear  what  he  said. 
We  were  informed,  however,  that  he  was  a sort  of  hermit,  living  in  or  near  a 
sheik’s  tomb  which  we  saw  at  a short  distance,  to  keep  it  in  order,  and  that  he 
gained  his  support  by  begging  in  this  way  from  boats  passing  down  the  river. 
We  could  not  stop,  but  we  made  a little  parcel  of  copper  money,  and  the  boat 
nearing  the  bank  we  succeeded  in  throwing  it  on  shore.  The  old  man,  when 
he  got  it,  lifted  up  his  hands  and  eyes,  pronouncing,  as  we  supposed,  his  bene- 
diction, and  according  to  custom  praying  in  our  behalf  for  a prosperous 
voyage. 

March  1 lih. — This  morning,  as  usual,  we  retired  to  our  cabin,  and  had  the 
satisfaction  of  uniting  in  the  appointed  service  of  the  Church.  As  the  promise 
is  that  where  two  or  three  are  gathered  together  in  His  name  there  is  He  in  the 
midst  of  them,  we  trusted  that  the  promise  was  now  fulfilled  in  regard  to  the 
smallest  of  these  numbers.  We  have  found  by  experience,  that  if  the  service 
of  our  Church  performed  rubrically  is  eminently  adapted  to  congregational 
worship,  it  is  not  less  edifying  or  grateful  to  the  devout  mind  when  two  only, 
who  really  love  it,  are  constrained  to  unite  in  it,  because  they  are  far  away  from 
the  assembled  congregations  of  God’s  people. 

TOMBS  OF  BENI  HASSAN. 

In  the  afternoon,  approaching  the  grottos  and  tombs  of  Beni  Hassan,  so 
called  from  being  near  to  the  Arab  villages  of  this  name,  we  concluded  to  take 
our  small  boat  and  visit  them,  while  the  large  boat  would  follow  us  down  the 
stream.  This  part  of  the  river,  where  the  desert  comes  very  near,  is  esteemed 
somewhat  unsafe  on  account  of  robbers.  Indeed,  these  villages,  as  I have 
before  mentioned,  were  destroyed  some  thirty  years  since  by  Ibrahim  Pasha, 


19 


146 


APPROACH  TO  THE  TOMBS. — THEIR  ANTIQUITY. 


because  tbe  inhabitants  could  not  be  kept  from  depredations  upon  boats  sailing 
up  and  down  the  river.  Our  rais  felt  some  anxiety  even  now  upon  account  of 
these  reputed  thieves,  and  sent  with  us  four  of  the  crew  armed  with  clubs ; we 
also  took  the  precaution  to  carry  with  us  our  loaded  guns.  But  when  we 
landed  we  saw  but  one  man  near,  who  was  engaged  in  the  fields,  and  during 
our  visit  to  the  tombs  not  a human  being  approached  our  party.  We  saw 
plainly  the  ruined  villages,  which  were  considerably  large,  and  so  entirely  were 
they  deserted  that  we  could  not  perceive  the  least  movement  around  them.  So  far 
then  as  the  safety  of  the  neighborhood  is  concerned,  the  Pasha’s  policy  seems 
to  have  been  effectual.  The  range  of  rocks  which  bounds  the  eastern  side  of 
the  valley  of  the  Nile  here  rises  abruptly  from  the  river.  Formerly  the  water 
ran  at  its  very  base,  but  by  one  of  those  changes  so  frequent  here,  the  channel 
has  now  left  it  and  ground  is  gradually  forming,  so  that  in  the  progress  of  some 
years  the  cliffs  of  Beni  Hassan  may  be  at  the  distance  of  two  or  three  miles 
from  the  river.  We  in  our  small  boat,  however,  were  enabled  to  come  close 
under  them.  A precipitous  ascent  over  sand  mingled  with  fragments  of  stone 
leads  to  the  grottos.  In  one  or  two  places  we  saw  the  remains  of  what  must 
have  been  regular  roads  to  the  principal  tombs.  When  the  ascent  was  more 
gradual,  there  were  parallel  lines  of  round  stones,  which  had  evidently  been 
placed  there  for  this  purpose.  The  rocks  lie  in  nearly  horizontal  strata,  some 
being  of  a calcareous  character,  and  some  sand-stone.  The  thickest  stratum  and 
that  best  adapted  to  the  purpose  was  selected  by  the  excavators  of  these  re- 
markable tombs,  which  are  said  to  contain  the  evidence  of  being  the  oldest  yet 
discovered  in  Egypt.  They  are  certainly  remarkable  and  interesting  in  the 
highest  degree,  as  giving  an  insight  into  the  manners  and  employments  of  the 
ancient  Egyptians.  But  the  first  thing  which  drew  our  attention  and  struck  us 
with  admiration,  was  the  character  of  the  entrance  to  two  of  the  principal 
tombs.  We  had  been  accustomed  to  associate  Doric  columns  with  the  Greeks, 
and  to  suppose  that  they  were  one  of  the  inventions  of  these  ingenious  and 
cultivated  people.  But  here  we  saw  what  at  a short  distance  seemed  to  be  the 
front  of  a small  temple  in  the  rock,  consisting  of  the  regular  Doric  columns 
with  antes.  Upon  approaching  them  we  found  that  in  one  instance  the  columns 


ORIGINAL  ELEMENTS  OF  GRECIAN  ARCHITECTURE. 


147 


were  fluted.  The  entablature  too,  which  they  supported,  had  clearly  the  ele- 
ments of  the  division  into  triglyph  and  metope.  Upon  entering  the  doorway 
in  the  centre  we  were  introduced  into  a chamber  of  eighteen  paces,  or  about 
fifty  feet  square,  cut  out  of  the  solid  rock.  The  roof  being  divided  into  three 
compartments  from  front  to  rear  by  two  deep  square  entablatures,  was  sustained 
by  four  columns  of  the  same  character  as  those  outside.  The  three  compart- 
ments in  the  roof  were  arched. 


The  neighboring  tomb  was  similarly  constructed,  but  the  columns  within 
had  been  taken  away.  It  was  obvious  that  the  columns  themselves  had  not 
been  wrought  out  and  then  placed  there,  but  were  a part  of  the  solid  rock.  In 
these  two  tombs  the  order  of  the  architecture,  if  I may  so  speak,  was  different, 
one  being  more  massive  than  the  other,  and  the  latter  being  of  sixteen  sides  and 
fluted,  except  in  one  case  in  front,  left  flat  probably  for  inscriptions,  while  the 
former  had  fewer  sides  and  was  not  fluted.  In  another  tomb  we  saw  columns 
of  a lighter  construction  and  very  beautiful,  the  idea  of  which  was  obviously 
derived  from  tying  together  the  stalks  of  four  lotus  plants  and  leaving  the  buds 
for  capitals.  If  the  architecture  was  thus  to  our  view  beautiful  in  itself,  and 
calculated  to  give  us  a high  idea  of  the  taste  and  knowledge  of  the  ancient 


148 


PAINTINGS  ON  THE  WALLS  OF  THE  TOMBS. 


Egyptians,  and  to  lead  to  the  conclusion  that  Grecian  architecture  may  here  be 
traced  to  its  original  principles,  the  painting  on  the  walls  of  these  tombs  was 
equally  interesting,  though  far  inferior  as  indicating  a knowledge  of  art.  There 
was  the  usual  want  of  perspective  and  of  graceful  outline,  of  just  relative 
proportion,  and  of  shading,  discoverable  in  all  the  Egyptian  paintings  we  have 
seen.  There  was,  however,  a manifest  difference  in  the  execution.  In  one 
tomb  there  was  a spirit  given  to  the  figures  and  an  approach  to  accuracy  in  the 
delineation  of  objects,  such  as  animals,  fishes,  and  birds,  which  we  did  not  per- 
ceive in  the  others.  As,  for  example,  fishes  were  represented  in  the  water  in 
different  positions,  swimming  up  and  down,  with  a good  deal  of  spirit  and  accu- 
racy. But  it  was  not  for  the  sake  of  drawing  and  coloring  that  we  were  here, 
but  to  follow  out  the  traces  of  the  employments  and  customs  of  a people  who 
lived  three  thousand  years  ago,  as  manifested  in  contemporaneous  delineations. 
And  here  before  us  was  abundant  opportunity  for  this  investigation,  and  we 
only  regretted  our  want  of  time  to  pursue  it  more  fully. 

To  give  an  accurate  description  of  the  walls  of  all  the  tombs  we  visited, 
would  take  up  a large  space,  nor  would  it  answer  a very  good  purpose,  as  many 
of  the  parts  are  much  impaired  by  time,  and  I am  sorry  to  say  in  some  instances 
by  the  carelessness  or  wantonness  of  visitors ; and  were  the  whole  susceptible 
of  being  made  out,  still  to  decipher  the  original  intention  must  be  in  a great 
measure  a conjectural  employment.  It  seems  indeed  to  be  highly  probable 
that  the  intention  was  to  give  some  indication  of  the  occupation  of  the  principal 
person  for  whom  the  tomb  was  constructed,  and  perhaps  of  the  amusements  to 
which  he  was  attached.  As,  for  example,  in  one  tomb  great  prominence  was 
given  to  scenes  of  sporting.  There  was  the  chase  of  animals,  and  shooting 
them  with  the  arrow,  and  also  the  use  of  the  net  in  catching  birds  and  fish.  In 
one  instance  the  net  was  being  drawn  over  a tree  in  which  were  birds,  and  in 
another  it  was  dragged  by  a number  of  persons  through  a coarse  line  of  paint- 
ing intended  to  depict  the  river.  In  another  tomb  agricultural  employments 
seemed  to  predominate.  There  was  plowing  with  cattle,  the  driving  of  herds, 
storing  the  grain  and  other  labors  of  the  farmer.  In  one  case  there  was  obvi- 
ously the  appearance  of  a person  taking  an  account  of  droves  of  different 


CONJECTURES  IN  RELATION  TO  JOSEPH  IN  EGYPT. 


149 


animals  which  were  brought  there  in  succession.  He  was  standing  up  with  a 
tablet  in  one  hand  and  the  stylus  in  the  other.  Behind  him  were  several  oxen 
driven  off,  the  account  of  which  had  been  taken.  Before  him  was  a man  stop- 
ping the  progress  of  a row  of  others  ^ill  they  could  be  registered,  and  beyond, 
in  the  same  line,  were  other  herds  successively  coming  forward.  This  has  been 
set  down  for  the  taking  of  an  inventory  of  the  property  of  the  person  deceased. 
But  why  may  it  not  as  well  be  an  indication  of  his  employment  as  the 
overseer  of  some  great  personage.  All  such  opinions  in  regard  to  the  private 
tombs  both  here  and  at  Thebes,  it  seems  to  me  must  be  conjectural.  In  one  of 
the  tombs  we  saw  and  examined  particularly  the  representation  of  a procession 
of  strangers,  in  regard  to  whom  the  idea  has  been  suggested  that  it  may  refer 
to  the  arrival  of  Joseph’s  brethren  in  Egypt.  Sir  Gardner  Wilkinson,  I presume, 
first  suggested  the  idea,  and  gives  the  views  on  both  sides  at  considerable 
length.  But  he  seemed  to  us  to  have  omitted  one  argument  against  the  theory, 
which  would  appear  to  be  conclusive,  and  this  is  that  there  is  no  representation 
of  the  aged  Patriarch  and  of  the  chariots  which  were  sent  by  Pharaoh  for  the 
Patriarch’s  family.  How  so  important  a circumstance  as  this  would  hardly 
have  been  passed  by  unnoticed.  In  short,  the  only  reason  for  entertaining  the 
idea  for  a moment  seems  to  be  that  the  tomb  was  made  in  the  reign  of  Osirtasen, 
in  whose  times  it  is  supposed  that  Joseph  lived,  and  because  the  persons  in  this 
procession  are  represented  with  beards.  There  was  one  subject  delineated 
which  seemed  to  us  to  have  a more  natural  reference  to  the  days  of  Joseph,  and 
this  was  a large  collection  of  buildings  into  which  laborers  were  obviously  car- 
rying corn  to  store  it  away.  The  number  was  much  larger  than  could  in  any 
probability  have  belonged  to  one  person.  How  we  have  at  least  as  much  right 
to  suppose  that  this  was  an  allusion  to  the  great  event  of  those  days,  the  storing 
up  corn  for  the  years  of  famine,  as  that  the  procession  on  the  opposite  wall 
alluded  to  the  coming  of  Joseph’s  brethren  into  Egypt.  But  if  all  such  ques- 
tions are  now  and  probably  must  ever  remain  in  such  doubt  that  the  time 
employed  in  speculating  upon  them  may  be  considered  as  lost,  there  are  other 
questions  not  less  interesting  which  are  definitively  settled.  We  can  trace  here 
the  employments  of  the  ancient  Egyptians,  and  see  that  they  are  those  of  the 


150 


MANNERS  AND  CUSTOMS  DELINEATED. 


present  day,  and  followed  in  much  the  same  manner.  The  plough  is  exactly  that 
we  have  seen  in  common  use.  We  have  an  intimation  too  of  what  their  amuse- 
ments were,  in  the  chase  with  bows  and  arrows,  in  catching  birds  and  fishes  in 
nets,  in  dancing  and  wrestling,  and  in  one  place,  as  it  seemed  probable,  in  the 
bull-fight.  It  was  obvious  also  that  some  game  like  chess  or  draughts  was 
known,  for  the  men  are  playing  at  it.  As  to  the  wrestling,  there  seems  to  be 
quite  a preponderance  of  this  representation,  for  there  are  several  lines  of 
figures  put  into  every  .possible  attitude,  and  in  order  that  these  positions  may  be 
more  distinct,  the  two  figures  are  always  in  different  colors.  The  persons 
depicted  are  of  a brown  color,  but  we  observed  one  line  of  females,  who  were 
light-colored,  and  who  appeared  to  be  engaged  in  dancing,  bending  the  body 
into  difficult  attitudes,  and  throwing  up  and  catching  three  balls  at  a time. 
One  of  these,  with  the  arms  and  one  leg  stretched  out  horizontally  and  standing 
upon  the  toe  of  the  other,  is  either  whirling  round  or  else  exhibiting  one  of  the 
common  feats  of  professional  dancers  of  the  present  day.  Now  these  were 
probably  slaves,  and  perhaps  from  the  same  country  as  those  men  who  are  of 
the  same  color,  and  over  whom  the  hieroglyphists  say  the  word  captive  is  writ- 
ten. There  is  one  other  resemblance  to  the  customs  of  our  own  times,  which 
we  observed,  and  that  is  a culprit  laid  upon  his  face  and  receiving  the  basti- 
nado, and  another  kneeling  down  with  a cord  round  his  neck  passing  into  the 
hands  of  several  men,  who  seemed  to  be  prepared  to  strangle  him.  A woman 
was  also  receiving  blows,  but  in  the  case  of  the  female  the  culprit  was  seated 
and  the  blows  were  laid  over  the  shoulder,  and  not,  as  in  the  case  of  the  man, 
upon  the  less  honorable  part. 

But  to  describe  every  particular  found  in  these  tombs  would  be  an  almost 
endless  task,  and  after  all  it  would  be  impossible  by  description  to  place  them 
before  the  eye  of  the  reader  as  they  present  themselves  to  the  spectator.  We 
have  found  by  experience  that  no  description  we  have  read  of  the  places  we 
have  visited,  however  well  written,  and  however  accurately  drawn,  where  we 
are  able  to  form  a comparison  between  it  and  the  reality,  has  served  to  place 
the  scene  before  our  eyes.  In  the  instance  of  these  tombs,  how  would  it  be 
practicable  to  describe  line  after  line  of  figures,  six  or  eight  inches  in  height, 


DIFFICULTY  OF  DESCRIPTION. — CROCODILES. 


151 


with  which  the  walls  all  over,  from  top  to  bottom,  are  decorated,  and  which 
illustrate  all  the  actions  in  life  we  have  alluded  to  ? Then  besides  this  there  are 
several  figures  larger  than  life  in  attitudes  of  action,  and  figures  still  larger 
seated,  representing  a god  receiving  offerings,  or  communicating  the  emblem  of 
immortal  life  to  some  one  presented  before  him.  If  it  is  difficult  to  describe  a 
picture,  the  subject  of  which  is  well  known,  and  where  the  figures  relating  the 
story  are  but  few,  so  that  he  who  reads  can  form  a just  idea  of  it  without  some 
sketch  or  engraving  to  aid  the  description,  how  impossible  is  it  to  place  before 
the  mind’s  eye,  in  all  its  details,  one  of  these  decorated  chambers,  with  its  hun- 
dreds of  representations  of  the  human  figure  in  every  situation  of  work  and  of 
amusement,  without  the  assistance  of  some  outline. 


CONTINUANCE  OF  OUR  VOYAGE. 

After  passing  several  hours  in  examining  these  very  curious  remains  of  a 
remote  age,  probably  the  most  ancient  paintings  in  the  world,  we  took  our 
small  boat  and  had  some  difference  of  opinion  with  our  crew  as  to  the  best 
method  of  reaching  the  larger  vessel.  Our  course,  however,  was  adopted, 
although  it  proved  in  the  result  that  theirs  would  have  been  the  best.  We 
have  so  often  found  their  judgment  to  be  erroneous,  that  we  had  no  confidence 
in  it  in  the  present  instance.  We  saw  as  many  as  four  or  five  crocodiles  tumble 
from  the  shore  into  the  water  upon  our  approach.  In  one  case  the  animal  was 
near  enough  for  a shot.  These  are  probably  the  last  we  shall  see,  as  we  are 
now  fast  leaving  the  part  of  the  Nile  which  they  inhabit.  We  had  some  diffi- 
culty in  reaching  our  boat,  as  it  had  not  followed  us  as  rapidly  as  we  antici- 
pated. At  about  eight  o’clock,  however,  we  got  on  board,  to  the  relief  of  our 
rais,  who  had  begun  to  have  fears  that  we  might  have  been  attacked  by  the 
robbers  about  whom  he  had  warned  us  in  the  morning. 

March  12th. — We  have  made  tolerable  progress,  and  in  the  course  of  the 
day  passed  Gebel  et  Tayr.  On  approaching  these  precipitous  cliffs  we  observed 
several  of  the  monks  of  the  Coptic  convent  seated  upon  the  ledges.  When  we 


152 


DARK  AND  BRIGHT  SIDE  OF  MONKISH  CHARACTER. 


got  under  them  and  were  sailing  along  the  base,  two  divested  themselves  of 
their  clothes,  scrambled  down  the  rocks,  which  seemed  to  us  almost  perpendicu- 
lar, by  holding  upon  projecting  points  and  taking  advantage  of  crevices,  till 
they  jumped  into  the  water  and  swam  off  to  us  for  alms.  We  gave  them  each 
something,  but  they  were  importunate  for  more,  and  we  had  to  drive  them  away. 
A third  now  swam  off,  to  whom  we  also  gave  a trifle,  and  our  dragoman  gave 
him  an  empty  bottle,  in  which  had  been  some  of  the  spirit  of  the  country 
which  we  had  brought  for  the  sailors  when  working  hard  at  night.  The  monk, 
or  whatever  he  was,  I suppose,  smelling  this,  began  to  make  earnest  motions 
for  something  to  drink,  and  kept  following  the  boat  till  one  of  the  crew  took  a 
pole  and  struck  at  him,  when  he  reluctantly  left  us.  The  Arab  sailors,  who 
are  all  Mahometans,  hold  these  fellows  in  great  contempt,  and  would  strike 
them  and  drive  them  away  if  permitted.  Their  conduct  on  this  occasion  was 
certainly  not  calculated  to  produce  a very  high  opinion  of  them  ; but  it  is  said 
they  are  very  charitable  in  the  monastery,  and  that  no  person,  Jew,  Mahometan, 
or  Christian,  can  apply  for  food  without  being  relieved  by  them,  and  that 
travellers  of  whatever  creed  are  always  hospitably  entertained.  This  is  cer- 
tainly a redeeming  point  in  their  character,  and  led  us  to  hope  that  our  dona- 
tions upon  two  occasions  had  not  been  entirely  thrown  away. 

March  13 th. — This  morning  we  were  called  from  our  cabin,  where  we  were 
writing  and  reading,  with  the  pleasing  intelligence  that  a boat  with  the  Ameri- 
can flag  hoisted  was  in  sight.  We  hailed  her  to  lay  to,  and  jumped  into  our 
small  boat  to  board  her,  and  had  the  satisfaction  of  finding  two  of  our  country- 
men, Mr.  Henry  Chauncey,  of  New- York,  and  Mr,  Leveret  Saltonstall,  of 
Salem.  Being  very  anxious  to  get  the  latest  intelligence  from  Europe,  we  con- 
sidered ourselves  quite  fortunate  in  meeting  with  gentlemen  who  had  left  Cairo 
only  forty-eight  hours  before.  We  were  rejoiced  to  hear  that  France  was  as 
quiet  as  before,  and  especially  that  Rome  was  still  tranquil.  We  had  the  intel- 
ligence of  the  revolution  in  Florence  and  the  flight  of  the  Grand  Duke,  and 
the  threatened  intervention  of  Austria.  But  the  point  in  regard  to  which  we 
were  most  anxious  was  the  tranquillity  of  Rome.  We  shall,  however,  we  trust, 
in  a day  or  two  get  authentic  intelligence  through  letters  from  our  dear  families. 


OUR  RAIS. — GIVING  A NAME. 


153 


After  half  an  hour’s  agreeable  conversation  with  our  countrymen,  we  took  to 
our  small  boat  to  follow  the  large  one,  which  had  been  pursuing  her  way  down 
the  stream.  We  had  a long  row  of  nearly  three  hours  in  the  hot  sun  before 
we  succeeded  in  overtaking  our  boat,  which  did  not  lay  to  for  us.  We  were 
very  much  put  out  with  our  rais  for  thus  obliging  us  to  remain  so  long  in  a 
small  open  boat  on  the  river  in  a broiling  sun,  and  forcing  two  men  to  undergo 
the  severe  labor  of  rowing  after  him,  when  by  laying  to  for  half  an  hour  he 
might  have  saved  us  all  this  trouble.  Supposing  that  there  was  some  inten- 
tional malice  in  this,  we  severely  reprimanded  him.  Our  dragoman,  who  had 
been  with  us  in  the  boat,  told  him  that  if  it  had  not  been  for  us  he  would  have 
complained  of  him  to  some  authority  on  shore  and  had  him  flogged,  which  he 
could  have  done.  He  said  in  reply  that  he  knew  how  anxious  we  were  to  get 
along,  and  was  afraid  to  stop  for  fear  we  should  be  angry  with  him.  This  was 
either  an  evasion  or  great  stupidity,  as  the  detention,  at  most,  would  have  been 
half  an  hour,  and  that  too  on  our  own  account.  The  conclusion  to  which  we 
came  was,  that  he  had  purposely  put  us  to  this  discomfort,  as  his  temper  is 
occasionally  bad,  and  is  often,  as  we  were  now  informed,  exhibited  in  violent 
language  to  his  men,  and  to-day  he  had  been  somewhat  sulky.  We  regret  this 
circumstance  at  the  close  of  our  voyage,  as  we  had  entertained,  upon  the  whole, 
a very  good  opinion  of  this  man  from  his  pleasing  manners.  But  it  is  hard  to 
fathom  the  real  character  of  an  Arab. 

As  we  were  sailing  along  this  afternoon  we  had  a singular  example  of  the 
superstition  of  this  people.  We  noticed  two  persons  on  shore  calling  to  our 
boat,  and  our  dragoman  hallooed  out  in  reply,  “ Ibrahim.”  We  asked  him  if 
he  knew  the  persons,  and  if  the  name  of  one  of  them  was  Ibrahim.  He  said 
no,  but  that  he  had  given  that  as  the  name  of  the  child  in  compliance  with 
their  request.  On  our  asking  an  explanation,  he  gave  us  the  following  state- 
ment : The  people  in  the  villages  along  this  part  of  the  river  have  the  supersti- 
tious impression  that  when  a woman  is  about  to  be  confined  with  a child,  if 
they  can  get  a name  given  to  it  in  this  way  from  the  rais  of  some  passing  boat 
it  will  insure  a safe  deliverance  and  the  life  of  the  child,  and  the  name  thus 
obtained  is  always  conferred  on  the  child.  In  the  present  instance  our  boat 


20 


154 


A LIFE-CHARM. — CLIMATE  OF  THE  THEBAID. 


was  hailed  because  there  were  obviously  persons  of  some  consideration  on 
board.  The  man  called  out,  addressing  us  very  respectfully,  “ Please  to  give  a 
name  to  my  daughter’s  child.”  When  he  received  the  name  he  returned  his 
thanks  and  went  away.  So  the  child,  if  a boy,  will  be  named  Ibrahim.  “ But 
what,”  we  said,  “ if  it  should  prove  to  be  a girl  ? ” “ Oh  they  don’t  care  about 

that,  if  it  is  a girl  no  matter  what  her  name  is.”  There  is  here  far  more  value 
attached  to  the  birth  of  a boy  than  of  a girl.  In  connection  with  this,  our 
dragoman  told  us  of  another  superstition  that  exists  in  Cairo.  When  a woman 
of  the  higher  ranks  has  been  unfortunate  in  losing  her  children,  she  will  take 
or  send  her  next  born  infant,  when  it  is  old  enough,  into  the  streets  or  the 
bazaar,  and  beg  from  passers  by  a few  paras  for  the  child,  as  if  it  were  poor. 
“Please  give  this  child  five  paras,”  (a  small  copper  coin  of  the  value  of  less 
than  half  a cent.)  With  the  money  thus  obtained  a silver  ring  or  some  such 
ornament  is  bought  and  put  upon  the  child,  whose  life  is  supposed  to  be  thereby 
protected. 

March  14 th. — This  morning  we  found  the  sky  overcast  with  clouds,  for  the 
first  time  since  the  commencement  of  our  voyage  up  the  Nile.  We  perceive  a 
manifest  difference  between  the  climate  of  the  Thebaid  and  that  in  the  neigh- 
borhood of  Cairo.  While  we  were  at  Thebes  the  temperature  of  the  air  was 
most  delicious  ; warm,  yet  not  debilitating.  The  atmosphere  was  clear  during 
the  day,  the  sun  always  shining  brightly  and  setting  in  golden  splendor.  The 
full  moon  at  night  was  like  a globe  of  silver  resting  upon  a mantle  of  the  deepest 
blue,  and  before  her  rising  the  heavens  were  like  a purple  mantle  studded  all 
over  with  diamonds.  The  sun,  moon,  and  stars,  with  us  in  America,  always 
seemed  to  me  to  look  through  a far  more  transparent  medium  than  in  England, 
or  even  France,  but  in  Thebes  they  seemed  more  clearly  defined  and  more 
brilliant  than  even  with  us.  There  was  also  an  elasticity  and  balminess  in  the 
air  which  made  it  a pleasure  only  to  breathe  it,  and  we  thought  the  high  praises 
bestowed  upon  it  were  by  no  means  exaggerated.  With  the  ancients,  the 
Thebaid  was  a favorite  resort  for  invalids,  and  the  Turks,  we  understand,  enter- 
tain the  same  opinion  of  its  salubrious  qualities ; and  as  far  as  our  experience 
goes,  there  could  be  no  better  resort  for  persons  in  feeble  health,  for  they  might 


RETURN  TO  THE  PYRAMIDS  AND  CAIRO. 


155 


take  exercise  at  all  times,  and  would  not,  perhaps,  be  confined  within  doors  a 
day  during  the  whole  winter,  and  moreover,  would  not  be  exposed  to  those 
sudden  changes  of  temperature  which  are  so  prevalent  in  other  places  we  have 
visited.  Even  Cairo,  far  south  as  it  is,  was  as  uncomfortable  on  this  account 
during  our  sojourn  there  as  America.  I do  not  think  I ever  experienced 
more  unpleasant  sensations  than  there,  from  a cold  and  biting  wind.  We  hope, 
however,  that  now  upon  our  return,  at  this  later  season,  it  will  be  more  genial. 
This  morning  we  were  greeted  again  by  the  sight  of  the  false  pyramid,  as  it  is 
called,  which  showed  us  that  the  greater  part  of  our  voyage  down  the  Nile  had 
been  accomplished.  Soon  the  pyramids  of  Dashour  rose  to  view,  and  seemed 
to  accompany  us,  as  it  were,  for  a long  distance,  and  to  be  unwilling  to  leave 
us.  We  would  seem  to  pass  them,  but  a turn  in  the  river  would  bring  them 
again  almost  in  front  of  us,  and  they  continued  thus  changing  their  bearing 
during  the  whole  afternoon.  While  they  were  yet  in  full  view,  the  pyramids 
of  Aboosier  and  Sakkara  joined  their  company,  and  ere  long,  in  the  far  distance, 
we  saw  those  of  Grhizeh.  At  a turn  in  the  river  the  citadel  of  Cairo,  crowned 
with  its  mosque  and  lofty  minarets,  came  forth  to  hail  us,  and  we  greeted  this 
well-known  object  as  an  old  friend.  It  was  loath  to  let  us  go  when  we  began 
our  voyage,  for  the  head  winds  kept  us  in  sight  of  it  for  two  whole  days,  but 
now  it  comes  on  rapidly  to  meet  us,  and  we  trust  with  cheering  letters  in  hand 
from  our  beloved  families  in  Rome. 

Finding  that  we  should  make  a great  saving  of  time  if  we  visited  the  Pyra- 
mids of  Sakkara,  the  site  of  Memphis,  and  fulfil  our  intention  of  going  once 
more  to  the  Pyramids  of  Ghizeh,  by  doing  all  this  before  returning  to  Cairo, 
we  came  to  at  the  bank  of  the  river  near  a village  and  sent  a messenger  to  the 
city  to  bring  our  letters  to  us. 


MEMPHIS  AND  THE  PYRAMIDS. 

March  15 ih.  — This  morning  we  were  up  betimes,  and  as  the  sun  rose  our 
messenger  returned,  and,  to  our  great  joy  and  comfort,  brought  letters  for  us 
from  Rome.  They  contained  most  favorable  intelligence  for  us  from  our  dear 


156 


SITE  OF  MEMPHIS. 


families  there,  and  mine  also  brought  most  cheering  news  from  my  dear 
children  in  New- York.  These  letters,  which  we  read  over  and  over,  even 
before  we  had  patience  to  dress  ourselves,  put  us  into  most  excellent  spirits,  as 
well  as  filled  our  hearts  with  gratitude  to  the  Giver  of  every  good  gift.  We 
now  felt  prepared  to  go  with  light  hearts  on  our  excursion.  For  this,  donkeys 
had  been  brought  to  us  from  Cairo.  I had  the  same  animal,  and  the  cheerful, 
active  little  boy  that  had  attended  me  before  in  my  expeditions  about  the  city. 
We  soon  finished  our  breakfast,  and  preparing  a luncheon,  as  we  proposed  to 
take  the  whole  day  for  our  excursion,  we  directed  our  boat  to  drop  down  the 
river  and  wait  for  us  at  Ghizeh,  and  mounted  our  little  serviceable  beasts, 
which  we  at  once  perceived  to  be  of  a better  description  than  any  we  had  met 
with  in  Upper  Egypt.  After  a short  ride  through  the  pleasant  fields  and 
amongst  the  groves  of  palms,  which  in  places  were  quite  extensive,  we  came  to 
the  site  of  Memphis.  Of  this  once  magnificent  and  populous  city,  nothing  is 
now  left  to  mark  the  place  where  it  stood,  but  mounds  of  rubbish  and  a very 
few  fragments.  One  of  these,  however,  is  very  remarkable  and  full  of  interest, 
a colossal  statue,  which,  when  perfect,  it  has  been  estimated,  must  have  been 
forty-two  feet  in  height.  It  is  now  broken  at  the  feet,  and  lies  prostrate  on  its 
face.  The  earth  has  been  excavated  around  it,  and  it  seems  as  if  it  had  fallen 
into  a deep  pit.  By  descending,  however,  the  profile  of  the  face  can  be 
distinctly  seen,  and  its  expression  is  certainly  very  beautiful.  The  nose  is 
curved  somewhat,  but  would  hardly  be  called  aquiline,  the  lips  very  distinctly 
marked,  and  the  whole  countenance  speaks  a benign  temper,  combined  with 
dignity.  Another  broken  statue,  much  smaller,  of  red  granite,  is  near  to  it, 
but  much  covered  up  with  soil.  An  inscription  in  hieroglyphics,  however,  is 
visible,  which  is  said  to  designate  it  to  be  a statue  of  Rameses  the  Great.  In 
another  spot  we  found  a broken  column,  with  a capital  having  four  faces,  like 
those  we  had  seen  at  Dendera.  These  scanty  remains  were  situated  in  a beau- 
tiful grove  of  date-palms,  with  intervening  spaces  of  greensward,  the  whole 
forming  a fine  specimen  of  eastern  park  scenery,  if  we  may  apply  this  modern 
designation  to  grounds  which  have  never  been  laid  out  with  a view  to  pictu- 
resque effect.  Leaving  this  place,  once  so  famous,  and  which  is  now  only  a 


TOMBS  AND  CAT-PITS  AT  SAKKARA. 


157 


small  Arab  village,  called  Mitrahenny,  we  rode  for  some  two  hours  through 
cultivated  fields,  with  the  Pyramids  of  Sakkara  in  full  view  before  us.  They 
are  situated  upon  rocky  and  sandy  hills,  a part  of  the  same  range  as  those  of 
Ghizeh,  and  which  mark  the  boundary  between  the  cultivated  land  of  the 
valley  of  the  Nile  and  the  desert.  On  the  side  of  one  of  these  hills,  where  the 
rock  is  free  from  sand,  are  several  tombs,  one  of  which  is  very  remarkable,  and 
we  explored  it  thoroughly.  It  is  cut  out  of  the  solid  rock,  and  the  passage  to 
it,  as  well  as  the  chambers  of  which  it  is  composed,  are  regularly  faced  with 
blocks  of  limestone.  The  roof  of  the  passage  and  chambers  is  in  the  form  of  a 
finely-tunnelled  arch,  and  the  blocks  of  stone  are  covered  with  hieroglyphics 
and  sculptured  figures,  which  were  once  painted  with  the  usual  brilliant  colors, 
blue,  red,  and  yellow.  This  tomb,  though  not  large,  indeed  quite  small  com- 
pared with  those  we  had  seen  at  Thebes,  was  yet,  as  to  its  workmanship,  as 
well  executed  as  any  we  had  seen.  The  whole  had  obviously  been  dug  out  of 
the  solid  rock,  and  then,  to  make  the  side-walls  and  the  arches  perfectly  smooth, 
for  the  reception  of  the  sculpture,  blocks  of  limestone  had  been  nicely  fitted 
together  to  make  the  surface  appear  as  if  the  rock  itself  had  been  wrought  by 
great  labor  into  this  form.  Quitting  this  tomb,  we  next  examined  the  pyramids, 
all  of  which  are  in  a ruined  state,  the  exterior  covering  having  been  long  ago 
removed  from  them.  The  largest  pyramid  is  in  the  most  perfect  state  of  preser- 
vation, although  this  also  is  entirely  stripped  of  its  exterior  covering,  so  that 
the  blocks  of  stone,  rudely  squared,  of  which  it  was  built,  stand  out  naked  and 
irregular.  There  are  in  the  neighborhood  many  cat  and  ibis  mummy -pits,  in 
addition  to  the  human  ones,  but  we  only  visited  one  of  the  cat-pits.  Descend- 
ing into  an  opening  in  the  sand,  like  a small  pit  dug  out,  we  came  to  a low 
arch,  and  through  this  we  had  to  crawl  on  our  hands  and  knees,  and  sometimes 
to  pull  ourselves  along  by  our  hands  alone,  as  we  lay  flat  down,  for  there  was 
not  height  sufficient  for  us  to  rise  on  our  knees.  After  descending  gradually  in 
this  manner  for  some  distance,  we  came  to  heaps  of  broken  vases  of  rough 
earthenware  of  a red  color,  which  had  formerly  contained  cat-mummies,  and 
which  had  been  broken  by  previous  visitors.  Through  this  mass  of  broken 
pottery  it  was  difficult  to  force  our  way,  and  would  have  been  dangerous  had 


158 


MUMMIFIED  CATS. 


not  the  composition  been  comparatively  soft.  Persevering,  however,  we  soon, 
by  the  dim  light  of  the  candles  which  our  attendants  carried,  were  enabled  to 
see  where  the  mummy -pots  had  been  as  yet  undisturbed.  They  were  piled  one 
upon  another,  in  regular  layers,  but  how  far  or  how  deep  they  extended  we 
could  not  tell,  for  the  excavated  rock  was  filled  with  them  to  the  very  top. 
Undoubtedly  they  had  been  laid  in  regular  rows,  filling  up  the  space  as  new 
accessions  were  brought  by  the  deluded  people  who  thus  testified  their  idolatrous 
respect  for  a brute  animal.  These  pots  are  in  the  shape  of  those  in  which  loaf- 
sugar  is  made,  only  smaller.  Upon  the  larger  end  a covering  like  a stopper 
had  been  cemented.  They  break  very  easily,  but  generally  speaking  the  mum- 
mies are  reduced  to  a black  powder,  and  the  linen  envelopes  are  completely 
rotten.  One  or  two,  however,  we  found  less  injured  by  the  damp,  and  could 
see  that  the  animal  had  been  swathed  in  a bandage  from  the  hind  feet,  which 
were  stretched  out  towards  the  tail,  to  the  head,  so  that  the  whole  body  could 
be  compressed  into  as  small  a compass  as  possible  in  circumference,  although  its 
length  was  entire.  After  gratifying  our  curiosity  at  the  expense  of  a good  deal 
of  fatigue,  and  being  covered  with  dust,  we  made  our  escape  from  this  curious 
but  disgusting  place,  glad  to  regain  the  light  and  the  pure  air.  All  around  us 
were  numerous  other  mummy-pits,  which  had  been  emptied  of  their  contents. 
Near  one  of  them  were  strewed  ox-bones,  large  heaps  of  the  more  perfect  being 
piled  up  to  be  carried  off,  probably,  and  burnt  into  animal  charcoal  for  the 
sugar  refineries  of  Ibrahim  Pasha. 

About  two  miles  north  from  the  Pyramids  of  Sakkara  are  those  of  Aboosier, 
but  having  a sufficiently  distinct  view  of  them  as  we  passed  by,  and  being  anx- 
ious to  spend  the  remainder  of  our  day  at  the  more  perfect  and  interesting  ones 
at  Ghizeh,  we  did  not  turn  aside  for  them.  A ride  of  two  hours  along  the  edge 
of  the  cultivated  land,  brought  us  once  more  to  the  three  noble  pyramids  of 
Ghizeh.  In  this  ride  we  passed  two  encampments  of  Beddowees,  who  were  here 
for  pasturage  for  their  camels  and  sheep.  They  thus  go  from  place  to  place, 
having  no  fixed  habitation,  and  when  pasturage  fails  them  in  one  spot  they 
seek  another.  But  what  they  call  pasturage,  would  seem  to  us  very  scanty  fare 
for  any  animal.  It  consists  merely  of  tufts  of  coarse  grass,  and  small  shrubs, 


SYMMETRY  OF  THE  GREAT  PYRAMID. 


159 


with  which  the  sandy  desert  is  in  places  dotted  over ; but  camels,  and  even 
sheep  and  goats,  find  browsing  in  such  barren  spots  as  our  grazing  animals 
would  starve  upon.  We  had  kept  our  eyes  upon  the  pyramids,  and  especially 
the  larger  one,  every  feature  of  which  was  familiar  to  us,  from  the  thorough 
examination  we  had  made  of  it  at  our  previous  visit.  We  did  not  again  ascend 
it  nor  go  into  the  interior,  but  we  gazed  and  contemplated,  and  again  and  again 
were  in  admiration  of  its  majesty  and  fine  proportions.  I am  not  acquainted 
sufficiently  with  this  description  of  building  to  say  wherein  it  differs  from  the 
other  pyramids  I have  seen,  except  in  size.  But  there  must  be  something  in 
its  proportions,  as  the  inclination  of  the  sides  to  the  base,  or  in  the  form  of  the 
triangular  side  itself,  which  gives  to  this  pyramid  an  effect  which  the  one  close 
to  it,  and  very  nearly  as  large,  does  not  possess,  and  which  makes  it  perfectly 
unique,  and  worthy  to  be  a wonder  of  the  world  to  many  future  ages,  as  it  has 
been  for  unknown  ages  past.  The  small  Pyramid  of  Mycerinus  we  entered,  and 
Mr.  M.  ascended  its  top,  from  which  there  is  a fine  view  of  all  the  pyramids  of 
Sakkara,  Aboosier,  and  Dashour. 

We  spent  some  time,  while  we  rested,  in  examining  the  accounts  we  had  of 
the  number  of  the  Pyramids  along  the  Nile,  their  dimensions  and  internal  struc- 
ture, as  far  as  ascertained ; but  as  this  kind  of  information  might  prove  to  be 
a dry  detail,  and  destitute  of  general  interest,  I shall  place  it  in  an  appendix. 

Our  parting  visit  was  made  to  the  Sphinx,  and  the  pleasing,  calm, 
though  mutilated  face,  upon  which  countless  thousands  have  gazed  when 
it  was  yet  perfect,  in  adoration,  and  other  thousands  in  more  recent  ages 
with  mingled  admiration  and  curiosity,  kept  us  for  a while  in  the  same  state 
of  feeling,  as  the  sun  sank  behind  the  great  Pyramid.  We  then  turned 
unwillingly  from  these  magnificent  works  of  ages  more  remote  than  human 
records  ascend  to,  and  riding  in  the  cool  of  the  evening  over  the  green  and 
fertile  plain,  from  which  the  copious  dew  was  causing  a sweet  fragrance  to 
rise  up,  we  reached  our  boat  at  Ghizeh  some  time  after  nightfall.  Our  day  had 
been  a long  one,  fatiguing  but  full  of  interest,  not  untinged  with  sadness  at  the 
thought  that  we  had  now  bid  farewell,  in  all  human  probability  for  ever,  to  the 
only  remaining  works  of  the  earliest  civilization  of  our  race. 


160 


FAREWELL  TO  OUR  BOAT. 


March  l§th. — This  morning  we  found  ourselves  once  more  at  Boulak,  the 
port  of  Cairo  on  the  Nile,  our  boat  having  dropped  down  from  Ghizeh  during 
the  night.  We  made  our  preparations  to  leave  it,  packing  up  our  clothes, 
books,  Ac.  It  had  been  our  pleasant  home  for  a month  within  two  days.  It 
had  performed  its  office  under  the  direction  and  by  the  labors  of  its  faithful 
and  active  crew  entirely  to  our  satisfaction,  and  borne  us  safely  to  many  a 
beautiful  scene  as  its  course  followed  the  channel  of  the  majestic  stream  to 
which  it  belonged,  and  to  places  renowned  in  the  world's  history,  and  which 
had  realized  all  the  highest  anticipations  of  pleasure  in  seeing  them  we  had 
formed  when  we  first  embarked.  Our  voyage  up  to  Thebes  and  back  again, 
with  sufficient  time  to  see  all  the  prominent  objects  of  curiosity,  had  been  made 
in  less  time  than  many  others  had  required  for  the  passage  to  Thebes  alone. 
We  therefore  realized  something  of  that  affection  which  a sailor  entertains  for 
the  ship  in  which  he  has  made  prosperous  voyages,  as  if  it  were  a living  thing, 
and  could  know  and  respond  to  him.  Our  donkeys  were  ready  on  the  bank, 
and  we  set  off  for  the  city,  followed  by  our  attendants,  calling  out,  as  we  got 
into  the  throng  which  always  fills  the  main  road  from  Boulak  to  Cairo,  the  well- 
known  sounds  which  we  had  not  heard  for  many  days,  “Biglak,  Shimmalak,” 
“ Take  care  of  your  legs — turn  to  the  left,”  repeated  over  and  over.  Having 
been  dissatisfied  with  the  neglect  and  discomfort  of  the  Oriental  Hotel,  we  now 
went  to  Shepherd’s  British  Hotel,  which  we  found  to  be  in  all  respects  more 
comfortable,  and  where  we  received  every  attention  we  required.  Having 
made  our  arrangements  here,  we  determined  to  make  the  most  of  our  time  in 
seeing  some  of  those  objects  of  curiosity  which  we  had  been  obliged  to  post- 
pone when  we  were  here  before. 


THE  DERVISHES  OF  CAIRO. 

Friday  being  the  day  on  which  there  was  to  be  the  weekly  performance 
of  dervishes,  we  went  to  the  college  at  Old  Cairo.  There  are,  I believe, 
several  establishments  of  these  fanatics  in  the  city,  but  this  is  the  only 


INTERVIEW  WITH  SHEIKS. 


161 


one  we  visited.  A pleasant  ride  tlirongli  extensive  gardens,  which  belong 
to  the  estate  of  Ibrahim  Pasha,  brought  us  to  the  place.  There  is  nothing 
in  its  exterior  worthy  of  notice;  but  it  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the  bank 
of  the  river  opposite  to  the  island  of  Rhoda.  Passing  through  a gateway,  we 
came  to  an  open  court,  in  the  centre  of  which  was  a raised  square  platform 
covered  with  matting,  and  on  one  side  an  elevated  seat  or  divan  where  the  der- 
vishes and  Sheiks  of  Mosques  who  come  to  the  ceremonies,  drink  coffee  and 
smoke  their  pipes.  We  were  introduced  into  a small  room  near  by  and  more 
retired,  with  a large  projecting  latticed  window  overlooking  the  river.  Round 
three  sides  of  the  room  was  a divan  with  pillows,  on  which  we  took  our  seats, 
when  one  by  one  came  some  aged  men  with  venerable  white  beards,  who  we 
were  told  were  sheiks  of  different  mosques  in  the  city,  about  to  take  part  in  the 
service.  The  head  of  the  college  was  a much  younger  man,  whom  they 
saluted  respectfully  as  they  entered.  Pipes  and  coffee  were  now  brought,  and 
they  all  seemed  to  engage  in  a cheerful  dialogue,  often  laughing  in  the  midst 
of  it.  Our  conversation  with  them  was  of  course  but  limited,  as  our  interpre- 
ter spoke  English  very  imperfectly  ; but  they  all  treated  us  with  great  civility, 
offering  us  their  pipes,  after  passing  the  palm  of  the  hand  over  the  amber 
mouth-piece,  with  a courteous  bow.  We  could  not  but  accept  the  proffered 
token  of  friendly  intercourse,  and  after  a few  whiffs  returned  them  in  the  same 
fashion. 

When  the  hour  for  service  arrived,  they  rose  and  left  us,  with  an  intimation 
that  after  a little  while  we  might  follow  them  into  the  Mosque.  The  ceremo- 
nies had  commenced  just  before  we  entered.  The  Mosque  was  a circular  build- 
ing, not  very  large,  lighted  from  the  dome,  and  quite  simple  in  its  architecture. 
Putting  our  shoes  from  off  our  feet  at  the  door,  we  walked  over  the  straw  mat- 
ting to  seats  on  one  side,  which  had  been  provided  for  us.  In  front  of  the 
niche,  or  small  recess,  which  is  an  essential  part  of  all  mosques,  and  answers  to 
our  chancel,  and  which  is  always  so  placed  that  the  worshipper  turning  to  it 
looks  towards  Mecca,  the  principal  dervish,  whom  we  had  not  seen  before,  was 
seated  upon  the  floor  Turkish  fashion,  and  in  a circle  round  him  were  our  new 
acquaintances,  with  a number  of  other  persons.  Amongst  them  we  were  sur- 


21 


162 


SINGULAR  SERVICES. 


prised  to  see  two  soldiers  in  the  full  uniform  of  the  Pasha’s  troops,  and  who 
seemed  to  be  as  active  and  zealous  as  any  of  the  rest.  They  were  all  engaged 
alike,  bending  the  body  to  the  right  and  left  with  a quick  motion,  as  if  bowing 
to  each  other,  and  repeating  in  a sort  of  chorus,  over  and  over,  the  same  words. 
“ La  ilaha  ill- Allah.”  — There  is  no  deity  but  God.  This  continued  for  some 
time,  when,  by  a sort  of  common  impulse,  they  sprang  upon  their  feet,  making 
the  same  motions,  only  bending  more  and  with  greater  violence.  Now  the 
chorus  changed  to  the  simple  utterance  of  the  word  ‘‘Allah, ” or  God — the 
accent  thrown  strongly  on  the  last  syllable,  and  forced,  as  it  were,  from  the 
lowest  part  of  the  chest,  with  a deep  guttural  sound  very  like  a grunt.  Their 
motions  and  enunciation  became  quicker  and  quicker,  their  whole  expression 
was  in  the  highest  degree  excited,  and  the  sweat  rolled  from  their  faces.  At 
last  one  venerable  man,  who  had  been  particularly  attentive  to  us,  and  had  in 
conversation  a very  joyous  expression,  got  into  the  centre  of  the  circle,  turning 
round  to  every  part  of  it,  jumping,  bending  his  body  forward  and  backward 
with  great  violence  and  rapidity,  and  grunting  out  “Allah”  till  it  seemed  as  if 
he  must  drop  down  under  the  violent  exertion.  At  intervals  there  was  a 
monotonous  chant,  accompanied  by  a sort  of  flute,  a double-reeded  pipe,  and  a 
tambourine,  from  a choir  of  some  half-dozen  who  were  seated  a short  distance 
from  the  circle.  This  continued  for  nearly  an  hour,  when  the  voices  of  the 
devotees  became  hoarse  and  faint  and  their  bodies  apparently  exhausted,  and  at 
last,  to  our  relief,  an  end  was  put  to  the  ceremony,  whether  by  signal  from  the 
chief  or  by  common  consent,  we  could  not  ascertain.  We  were  told  that  after 
taking  coffee  and  resting  awhile  the  same  ceremonies  would  be  repeated.  But 
we  had  seen  enough,  and  went  away.  This  performance  is  called  the  “ Zikr,” 
and  by  long  training  the  dervishes,  and  often  other  devotees,  as  in  the  case  of 
the  soldiers  we  saw,  are  enabled  to  keep  up  this  violent  exercise,  without  inter- 
mission, for  a space  of  time  that  would  seem  to  be  beyond  human  endurance. 
In  many  instances  the  training  'begins  very  early,  for  we  saw  among  the  devo- 
tees a little  boy,  the  son  of  the  principal  sheik,  only  about  twelve  years  of  age, 
taking  his  part ; but  we  noticed  that  he  very  often  stopped  and  rested,  and  did 
not  seem  at  all  excited  as  the  others  were. 


TRICKS  OF  DERVISHES. 


163 


Dervishes  in  Egypt  are  as  numerous  as  Monks  in  Italy,  and  like  them  are 
divided  into  communities  or  orders.  These  orders  are  distinguished  by  caps 
and  turbans  of  different  shapes  and  colors,  and  by  the  flags  which  they  carry  in 
processions.  Some  of  them  employ  themselves  in  different  trades  for  a living, 
but  very  many  devote  themselves  exclusively  to  religious  exercises,  such  as 
reciting  the  Koran,  and  chanting  at  funerals  and  other  solemnities.  Certain  of 
the  orders  are  celebrated  for  tricks  of  juggling  and  for  extraordinary  feats,  such 
as  piercing  the  body  with  sharp  instruments  without  expressing  any  pain, 
breaking  masses  of  stone  on  their  naked  breasts,  eating  live  coals,  glass,  and 
even  metals,  taking  up  serpents  and  eating  them  alive.  Some  of  these  feats  we 
saw,  but  we  were  told  of  one  that  seemed  almost  incredible.  “ A dervish  of  the 
order  of  the  Kifa/ees  would  take  a hollow  piece  of  the  trunk  of  a palm-tree,  fill 
it  with  rags  soaked  with  oil  and  tar,  then  set  fire  to  these  contents,  and  carry  the 
burning  mass  under  his  arm  in  a religious  procession,  wearing  only  drawers ; 
the  flames  curling  over  his  bare  chest,  back,  and  head,  and  apparently  doing 
him  no  injury.”  Now  this  may  not  seem  impossible  to  those  who  recollect  the 
feats  performed  here  some  years  since  by  the  “ Fire  King,”  as  he  was  called. 
The  method  by  which  the  body  can  thus  be  rendered  insensible  to  flame,  might 
be  converted  to  some  good  use,  could  it  be  revealed,  and  one  would  suppose 
that  the  trick  might  be  discovered,  or  else  the  secret  purchased  for  a considera- 
tion. Were  the  exhibition  made  here,  I fancy  some  of  our  ingenious  country- 
men would  soon  find  out  the  mystery.  All  these  feats  are  considered  as  proofs 
of  superior  sanctity,  and  those  who  practise  them  are  much  respected,  especially 
by  the  lower  orders,  and  find  no  difficulty  in  obtaining  a sufficient  support  from 
their  alms. 

THE  HOSPITAL  AND  MEDICAL  SCHOOL. 

From  the  College  of  Dervishes  we  went  to  the  Hospital  and  Medical  School, 
as  we  were  desirous  of  seeing  how  such  institutions  were  managed  amongst 
a people  who  in  so  many  respects  can  be  regarded  as  only  half-civilized.  We 
were  much  gratified  with  what  we  saw,  and  were  glad  to  accord  to  Mehemet 


1 64  ' 


A FRENCH  MUSSULMAN. — THE  HOSPITAL. 


Ali  a high  degree  of  praise  for  his  liberal  endowment  of  these  establishments. 
While  he  was  in  authority  they  were  carried  on  with  vigor,  and  were  in  a 
flourishing  condition.  Serious  apprehensions,  however,  are  entertained  that  his 
bigoted  and  almost  brutal  successor,  Abbas  Pasha,  will  neglect  them  and  with- 
draw his  patronage  at  least  from  the  Medical  School.  Some  of  those  who  con- 
ducted us  through  the  various  departments,  spoke  in  a desponding  tone  of  their 
future  prospects.  For  what  has  been  accomplished  for  these  institutions,  and 
for  the  general  progress  of  medical  science,  the  country  is  greatly  indebted  to 
Clot-Bey,  a French  surgeon,  who  was  placed  by  Mehemet  Ali  in  the  office  of 
Inspector-general  of  the  civil  and  military  medical  service  of  Egypt.  What  his 
French  name  was,  I have  not  been  informed,  but  he  is  known  by  his  Mussul- 
man designation.  It  is  painful  to  reflect,  that  even  with  so  worthy  an  object  in 
view,  he  could  have  consented  to  renounce  the  faith  in  which  he  was  born  and 
probably  baptized.  But  it  is  to  be  feared  that,  like  others  of  his  countrymen, 
who  have  thus  entered  the  service  of  the  Pasha,  he  had  no  sincere  religious 
belief  to  give  up,  and  none  to  profess.  In  his  particular  department  of  science 
he  is  said  to  be  eminent,  and  has  published  in  French  two  volumes,  replete  with 
information,  entitled  AperQu  General  sur  L’Egypte. 

The  hospital  and  school  occupy  a very  beautiful  site  upon  the  eastern  bank 
of  the  Nile,  between  Old  Cairo  and  the  port  of  Boulak.  They  are  very  exten- 
sive, and  are  surrounded  with  gardens  and  noble  plantations  of  trees.  The 
wards  of  the  hospital  were  well  arranged,  and  the  whole  police  apparently  well 
conducted.  The  school  of  medicine  was  respectably  well  supplied  with  ana- 
tomical preparations.  These  are  particularly  necessary  for  the  instruction  of 
students  in  a country  where  the. prejudices  are  much  stronger  than  amongst 
us  against  the  mutilation  of  the  human  body.  Actual  dissections,  we  were 
informed,  were  quite  uncommon,  and  could  only  be  conducted  with  the  greatest 
secrecy.  The  number  of  professors  was  seven,  and  the  course  of  instruction 
thus  arranged  : 1.  The  elements  of  physical  science,  of  chemistry  and  botany. 
2d.  General  anatomy,  descriptive  and  pathological.  3d.  Surgical  pathology 
and  clinique,  with  operations.  4th.  Medical  pathology  and  clinique.  5th.  Ma- 


ARAB  STUDENTS. — THE  OLD  PASHA. 


165 


teria  medica  and  therapeutics.  6th.  Hygiene  and  medical  jurisprudence.  7th. 
Pharmacy. 

Of  the  Arabs  as  medical  students,  Clot-Bey,  in  the  work  above  mentioned, 
says : “ They  are  endowed  with  good  capacities  and  a happy  memory,  but  much 
carried  away  by  the  marvellous,  and  singularly  addicted  to  their  early  preju- 
dices. It  is  difficult  to  make  them  abandon  the  theories  and  the  astronomical 
and  medical  systems  of  the  ancients.  Their  admiration  for  Aristotle  is  great. 
They  are  susceptible  of  emulation,  full  of  enthusiasm,  and  possess  great  thirst 
for  distinction.  At  the  examinations  the  pupils  are  accustomed  to  make  extra- 
ordinary exertions  to  excel.  One  day  a young  Arab,  anxious  to  obtain  the 
rank  of  surgeon’s  mate,  for  which  he  was  examined  before  the  professors  and 
the  public,  and  not  succeeding  to  his  wishes,  burst  out  into  the  passionate 
exclamation,  4 Death  is  preferable  to  this  disgrace ! ’ Those,  on  the  other 
hand,  who  succeed,  manifest  an  extravagant  joy,  and  are  embraced  and  compli- 
mented by  their  parents  and  friends,  and  their  success  celebrated  by  festive 
entertainments.” 

On  our  return,  as  we  came  near  the  open  space  of  the  Ubekeeh,  a carriage 
and  four  approached  us,  with  two  footmen  running  before,  loudly  cracking  their 
whips  to  clear  the  way.  Being  told  that  it  was  the  old  Pasha,  Mehemet  Ali, 
we  turned  our  donkeys  on  one  side  and  stopped  to  have  a sight  of  this  remark- 
able man.  He  was  leaning  back  in  the  corner  of  his  carriage,  and  we  could 
see  little  more  of  him  than  his  turbaned  head  and  large  white  beard.  His  eye 
was  sprightly  enough  for  so  old  a man,  but  had  none  of  the  intensity  of  gaze 
for  which  it  was  so  famous  in  his  middle  age.  We  took  off  our  hats,  and  he 
returned  our  salute  courteously  with  a motion  of  his  hand.  He  is  said  to  have 
lost  his  mind  almost  entirely,  and  sees  very  few  persons,  except  as  he  passes 
through  the  city,  taking  his  daily  ride  from  his  palace  at  Shoobra  to  that  in  the 
citadel.  His  feeble  appearance  and  great  age  were  sure  indications  of  approach- 
ing death,  which  took  place  not  many  months  after  we  saw  him.  We  were 
gratified  at  seeing,  though  but  for  a moment,  a man  who  rose  from  a very  hum- 
ble condition  to  so  high  a station,  and  whose  bold  and  energetic  policy  all  but 


166 


LIFE  AND  CHARACTER  OF  MEHEMET  ALI. 


wrested  Egypt  and  Syria  from  the  Sultan,  and  whose  name  and  deeds  will  fill 
no  inconsiderable  space  in  the  world’s  history.  To  a traveller  of  distinction, 
who  was  introduced  to  him  in  the  year  1832,  when  he  was  in  the  height  of  his 
power,  he  said : “ I am  not  indifferent  about  the  judgment  which  the  world 
may  form  of  me  ; and  of  this  I will  give  you  a convincing  proof.  For  a long 
time  I have  been  engaged  in  composing  the  history  of  my  own  life.  During 
every  moment  which  I can  snatch  from  public  business,  from  the  affairs  of  my 
people,  I am  attended  by  a secretary,  whose  sole  employment  it  is  to  write 
down  what  I dictate,  in  my  own  words  ; and  to  obviate  the  objections  which 
might  be  urged  against  a history  of  so  long  a period,  composed  from  recollec- 
tion, I may  remark,  that  nature  has  endowed  me  with  a very  strong  memory. 
I can  describe,  as  if  they  occurred  yesterday,  events  which  took  place  forty 
years  ago.  In  consequence,  my  biography  will  be  very  full.  It  will  contain 
the  history  of  my  youth,  before  my  arrival  in  Egypt.  I shall  describe  the  state 
of  this  country  when  I came  into  it ; and  all  the  events,  of  any  importance, 
which  happened  during  my  military  expeditions  in  Nubia,  Sennaar,  Kordofan, 
the  Hejaz,  and  Syria.”  Such  an  autobiography,  if  it  is  yet  in  existence,  will 
be  of  vast  interest ; for  few  lives,  perhaps  none  of  men  who  have  lived  in  the 
present  century,  except  that  of  Napoleon,  have  been  so  eventful.  He  was  a 
despot,  it  is  true,  and  ruthless  in  shedding  blood,  as  witness  his  wholesale 
slaughter  of  the  Mamelukes ; but  he  had  enlarged  views  for  Egypt,  and  his 
great  purpose  doubtless  was  to  raise  the  people  over  whom  he  was  placed,  from 
their  state  of  moral  and  political  degradation,  and  introduce  amongst  them  the 
advantages  of  European  civilization.  Many  beneficial  changes  he  effected,  but 
in  other  attempts,  as,  for  example,  the  introduction  of  commerce,  manufactures, 
and  improved  agriculture,  he  failed  in  consequence  of  the  selfish  policy  of 
making  these  undertakings  subservient  to  the  enriching  of  himself  and  his 
family.  Though  unquestionably  a man  of  genius,  and  well  skilled  in  the  know- 
ledge of  human  nature,  he  was  but  little  versed  in  the  sciences  which  are  essen- 
tial to  the  formation  of  a successful  statesman.  Of  the  received  principles  of 
political  economy  he  must  have  been  profoundly  ignorant.  Yet  he  was  always 
ready  to  inquire,  and  one  of  the  bright  parts  of  his  administration  was,  draw- 


HIS  POLICY  AND  TYRANNY. 


167 


ing  around  him  intelligent  men  from  Europe,  and  in  many  instances  following 
their  suggestions.  To  him,  in  a great  measure,  is  owing  the  change  that  has 
taken  place  in  the  treatment  of  foreigners.  Before  his  interposition,  a Frank 
was  hardly  safe  from  insult,  and  perhaps  injury.  The  bigoted  Turk  would 
crush  him  to  the  wall  or  kick  him  with  his  sharp  iron  stirrup  in  the  streets  of 
Cairo,  and  in  the  country  the  brutal  Fellah  would  pelt  him  with  stones  and 
mud,  and  if  the  chance  offered,  would  rob  him.  And  their  only  safety  from 
these  discomforts  and  dangers  was  in  assuming  the  Turkish  garb  and  letting  their 
beards  grow.  Now  all  this  is  changed.  The  Frank  in  his  own  dress  rides  or 
walks  through  Cairo,  and  in  all  the  large  towns  of  Egypt,  as  unmolested  and  as 
unnoticed  as  he  would  do  in  the  streets  of  London  or  Paris,  and  he  is  every 
where  treated  with  the  utmost  civility  by  the  Fellah  peasant.  This  is  Mehemet 
Ali’s  liberal  policy.  Had  he  been  such  a man  as  his  grandson  Abbas,  the 
present  Pasha,  it  is  to  be  feared  that  such  changes  would  have  been  made  much 
more  slowly,  if  at  all.  But  as  to  the  condition  of  the  masses  of  the  people  — 
this,  from  what  we  could  learn,  has  been  rendered  worse  rather  than  better. 
They  are  ground  down  by  heavy  taxation ; their  personal  rights  are  totally  dis- 
regarded ; they  are  seized  at  the  will  of  the  Pasha  and  his  favorites,  and  made 
to  cultivate  their  grounds,  to  tend  their  cotton  mills  and  sugar  factories,  or  to 
become  soldiers  or  sailors.  The  impression  made  upon  us  from  what  we  saw 
during  our  short  sojourn  was,  that  few  countries  can  have  been  worse  governed. 
Egypt  has  been  the  land  of  bondage  for  ages  past,  and  the  yoke  of  despotism 
still  presses  heavily  upon  her  unhappy  people.  Had  Mehemet  Ali  been  an 
enlightened  and  benevolent  ruler,  it  would  have  been  different,  but  our  convic- 
tion is  that  he  was  an  ambitious,  avaricious,  and  selfish  despot.  Some  know- 
ledge of  the  personal  appearance  and  the  habits  of  so  celebrated  a man,  is 
always  interesting,  and  therefore  I insert  the  following  account,  from  one  who 
had  a favorable  opportunity  for  obtaining  accurate  information. 

“ Mehemet  Ali  is  a man  of  middling  stature,  robust  and  stout  in  his 
make,  exceedingly  upright,  and,  for  a man  of  sixty-five,  hale  and  active.  His 
features,  possessing  more  of  the  Tartar  cast  than  is  usual  among  European 
Turks,  are  plain,  if  not  coarse ; but  they  are  lighted  up  with  so  much  intelli- 


168 


HIS  PRIVATE  AND  PUBLIC  HABITS. 


gence,  and  his  dark  gray  eyes  beam  so  brightly,  that  I should  not  be  surprised 
if  I found  that  persons  familiar  with  his  countenance  thought  him  handsome. 
He  sleeps  but  little,  and  rises  at  or  before  daybreak ; and  very  shortly  after 
leaves  his  harem  on  horseback,  and  repairs  to  his  divan  for  the  dispatch  of 
business.  There  he  receives  all  memorials,  petitions,  dispatches,  &c.  Shortly 
after  his  arrival  the  secretaries  walk  in  with  large  bundles  of  letters,  received 
since  the  day  before,  the  contents  of  which  are  read  to  him.  He  then  com- 
mands, and  sketches  out,  viva  voce,  in  a rapid  manner,  the  necessary  replies. 
This  sort  of  business  usually  occupies  him  till  about  nine  o’clock ; at  which 
hour  all  those  consuls,  and  other  persons  who  desire  a public  audience,  arrive. 
In  an  hour  or  two  these  individuals  take  their  leave ; upon  which  he  returns  to 
his  harem,  where  he  remains  till  about  three  or  half  past  three  in  the  afternoon. 
Even  here  however  he  is  still  employed,  and  if  any  letter  or  note  arrive, 
whether  by  day  or  night,  he  is  to  be  immediately  awakened  from  sleep.  At 
half  past  three  o’clock  he  again  returns  to  the  divan,  where  the  same  round  of 
business  takes  place  as  in  the  morning.  About  an  hour  after  sunset  he  takes  a 
slight  repast,  and  remains  in  the  divan  until  ten  or  eleven  o’clock  at  night. 
During  these  evening  hours  he  generally  finds  time  for  a game  or  two  of  chess, 
a person  retained  for  the  purpose  being  always  in  attendance  to  play  with  him ; 
and  this  fellow,  being  his  Highness’s  buffoon  as  well  as  companion  in  amuse- 
ment, always  affects  to  be  inconsolable,  and  makes  a sad  outcry,  when  the  pieces 
are  taken  from  him.  His  active,  restless  temper,  will  never  suffer  him  to  be 
unoccupied ; and  when  not  engaged  with  graver  and  more  important  affairs,  he 
descends  even  to  meddling.  Nothing  is  too  minute  for  him.  His  movements 
are  sudden  and  unexpected : he  appears  in  Cairo  or  at  Alexandria  when  least 
looked  for,  which  maintains  a certain  degree  of  vigilance  among  the  agents  of 
government ; though  something  of  all  this  may  perhaps  be  set  down  to  caprice 
or  affectation.  In  the  affairs  of  the  heart  Mehemet  Ali  is  not  without  delicacy : 
during  the  whole  lifetime  of  his  wife,  an  energetic  and  superior  woman,  he 
invariably  treated  her  with  the  most  profound  respect,  and  she  always  retained 
a great  influence  over  him.  Even  since  her  death  he  has  never  married  another 
woman.  She  lies  buried  by  her  son  Toussoun  in  a sumptuous  tomb  near 


PRESENTATION  OF  THE  AMERICAN  CONSUL-GENERAL. 


169 


Cairo ; and  when  I visited  the  place  some  friendly  hand  (probably  by  his 
direction)  had  recently  been  strewing  sweet  flowers  over  their  graves.” 

March  YJih.  — To-day  took  place  the  ceremony  of  the  presentation  of  the 
American  Consul  General  to  Abbas  Pasha,  the  Viceroy  of  Egypt.  A battalion 
of  soldiers  was  sent  as  an  escort  for  the  Consul.  These  were  accompanied  by  a 
band  of  musicians,  who  were  all  Arabs,  but  had  been  instructed  by  a French 
teacher.  They  were  thirty  or  forty  in  number,  and  played  pretty  well,  though 
not  like  the  French  or  Italian  bands.  Their  music  was  mostly  European. 
They  play  Arabian  airs,  however,  and  I requested  them  to  do  so  for  our  satis- 
faction ; but  I found  the  arrangement  for  a full  band  spoiled  the  effect,  and  the 
music  scarcely  resembled  that  which  I heard  upon  the  Nile.  Four  American 
citizens  were  present,  besides  the  captain  and  several  officers  of  the  Constitu- 
tion, which  had  brought  the  Consul  to  Alexandria.  We  went  in  three  carriages, 
preceded  by  the  soldiers  and  by  a number  of  mounted  guards  in  Turkish  cos- 
tume. Our  carriages  were  not  without  the  usual  attendant  of  a groom  running 
before  us  to  clear  the  way,  and  ever  and  anon  cracking  a whip  which  gave  a 
report  like  a pistol.  This  singular  procession  lasted  for  more  than  a mile,  from 
the  hotel  to  the  Citadel.  There  is  a certain  line  of  streets  where  there  is  room 
enough  for  a carriage ; but  most  of  the  public  ways  in  Cairo  are  only  wide 
enough  for  two  horses  or  donkeys  to  go  by  each  other.  As  it  was,  in  many 
places  through  which  we  went,  two  carriages  could  not  stand  abreast.  But 
these  conveyances  are  so  unusual  in  Egypt  that  no  serious  inconvenience 
ensues.  The  grooms  go  on  cracking  their  whips,  and  this  is  a sufficient  warn- 
ing for  all  foot  passengers  to  clear  the  way,  as  those  who  can  afford  to  ride  are 
supposed  to  have  a good  right  to  the  whole  street.  On  arrival  we  went  to  the 
Viceroy’s  hall  of  reception,  a large  oblong  room,  surrounded  on  three  sides  by 
the  raised  seat,  commonly  called  a divan,  which  was  covered  with  red  cloth. 
There  was  nothing  splendid  or  imposing  about  the  room.  We  followed  in  the 
Consul’s  train,  and  found  the  Pasha  standing  at  the  head  of  the  hall,  where  the 
Consul  made  his  obeisance  and  presented  his  exequatur,  that  is,  his  permission 
from  the  Sultan  at  Constantinople  to  act  as  Consul  General  in  Egypt.  The 
Pasha  kissed  the  parchment  roll  and  raised  it  carelessly  to  his  forehead.  It  was 


22 


170 


ABBAS  PASHA,  THE  VICEROY. 


a large  roll,  at  least  two  feet  wide  and  four  or  five  feet  long.  It  was  written  in 
Turkish.  The  Pasha  then  took  his  seat  upon  the  divan,  and  made  a motion  to 
the  Consul  to  sit  beside  him.  We  now  took  our  seats  in  a row,  but  not  like  the 
Pasha  in  the  Turkish  fashion,  as  this  would  have  been  an  awkward  position  for 
some  of  us.  At  a signal  given,  half  a dozen  attendants  came  forward  with 
pipes,  the  mouth-pieces  being  of  amber,  set  with  diamonds.  After  smoking  a 
minute  or  two,  coffee  was  brought  in  filigree  frames,  also  set  with  diamonds. 
They  were  very  handsome. 

The  Pasha  is  about  thirty-five  years  old,  short,  stout,  and  extremely  vulgar 
in  his  appearance.  There  is  no  look  of  intellect  about  him,  and  if  my  attention 
had  been  called  to  him  in  any  other  situation,  I should  have  said  he  was  a 
coarse-minded,  ignorant,  and  sensual  man.  I believe,  unfortunately  for  Egypt, 
that  this  is  too  much  his  character,  but  it  is  only  fair  to  wait  and  see  what  he 
will  do  with  his  government.  He  is  said  to  be  a religious  fanatic,  and  to  have 
none  of  the  liberal  views  of  the  old  Pasha.  His  dress  was  very  simple,  a plain 
blue  frock-coat ; nor  was  there  any  peculiar  state  about  his  retinue.  A sabre 
was  presented  to  the  Consul,  an  attendant  putting  the  belt  around  his  neck. 
The  Pasha  now  gave  his  pipe  to  a servant  and  rose.  We  followed  suit,  made 
our  bows  in  ordinary  fashion  and  retired.  Without  stood  a horse  handsomely 
caparisoned,  with  an  embroidered  Turkish  saddle,  a present  for  the  Consul. 
He  mounted  the  horse,  and  we  all  returned  to  the  hotel  with  the  .same  escort. 
The  soldiers  then  went  away,  but  the  band  remained  to  play  in  the  area  of  the 
hotel  for  an  hour  or  two.  All  the  foreign  consuls  came,  in  their  rich  dresses,  to 
pay  their  respects  to  our  consul,  and  so  ended  the  celebration. 


THE  PROCESSION  OF  A BRIDE  FROM  THE  BATH. 

Passing  through  one  of  the  streets,  our  attention  was  arrested  by  a most 
singular  noise,  which  proceeded,  as, we  presently  discovered,  from  a band  of 
females  on  their  way  from  the  bath.  Two  days  before  her  marriage,  the  bride 
elect,  splendidly  adorned,  according  to  Egyptian  ideas  of  ornament,  and  with  a 


NUPTIAL  CEREMONIALS  IN  EGYPT. 


171 


crown  upon  her  head,  attended  by  her  relatives  and  friends,  goes  in  grand  pro- 
cession to  the  bath,  which  is  then  shut  up  from  the  public,  as  the  whole  is  hired 
for  the  bridal  occasion.  In  the  morning  they  set  out,  and  spend  the  day  in 
feasting  and  in  various  amusements,  bathing,  sipping  coffee,  gossipping,  and 
admiring  each  other’s  ornaments.  In  the  evening  or  afternoon  they  return,  and 
it  was  the  returning  procession  which  now  arrested  our  attention.  In  front, 
closely  veiled,  slowly  and  solemnly  marched  a large  band  of  elderly  females, 
and  next  to  them  came  the  bride,  richly  attired  in  scarlet  and  yellow,  wrapt  up 
in  shawls  and  almost  suffocated  by  the  weight  of  her  wardrobe.  She  was, 
however,  supported  on  each  side  by  two  of  her  relatives.  Behind  her,  equally 
veiled,  and  with  the  same  slow  gait,  came  another  band  of  females,  who 
appeared  to  be  younger,  and  all  uttered  at  short  intervals  that  peculiar  sound 
to  which  I have  alluded,  and  which  seems  to  be  here  the  usual  expression  upon 
joyful  occasions.  It  is  produced  by  a succession  of  shrill  cries,  succeeding  each 
other  with  great  rapidity,  and  interrupted  by  frequently  striking  the  palm  of 
the  hand  upon  the  mouth.  In  cases  where  the  bride  is  not  sufficiently  wealthy 
to  deck  herself  for  the  festival  out  of  her  own  stores,  it  is  customary  to  hire 
shawls  and  rich  dresses  for  the  occasion. 

The  bridegroom  also  betakes  himself  to  the  public  bath,  and  passes  the  day 
in  a similar  manner,  mutatis  mutandis , in  the  company  of  his  friends.  When 
the  marriage  day  is  come,  the  bride  is  solemnly  conducted  in  a similar  proces- 
sion, and  adorned  in  the  same  manner,  to  the  dwelling  of  her  future  husband. 
Her  wardrobe  and  jewels  are  borne  by  slaves  in  baskets ; and  while  others 
burn  incense,  the  same  confused  cries  are  uttered  by  the  women.  The  proces- 
sion goes  a long  way  about,  and  a sumptuous  feast  is  prepared  for  its  arrival. 
In  the  meantime  the  bridegroom  is  gone  to  say  his  prayers  at  the  mosque, 
together  with  his  relatives  and  friends,  and  upon  his  return  they  also  partake  of 
a feast ; and  after  this,  for  the  first  time,  the  bridegroom  beholds  the  face  of  the 
bride. 

March  18 th.  — Though  we  had  visited  several  Coptic  churches,  and  made 
many  inquiries  into  the  history  of  this  ancient  body  of  Christians,  we  had  never 
yet  had  an  opportunity  of  attending  their  service.  As  it  begins  very  early, 


172 


MODE  OF  WORSHIP  IN  THE  COPTIC  CHURCH. 


soon  after  sunrise,  we  now  had  time  to  do  this  before  the  prayers  in  our  own 
church  commenced.  The  service  is  very  long,  occupying  three  or  four  hours. 
The  church  was  already  crowded  with  worshippers.  In  the  compartment 
directly  before  the  chancel  the  patriarch  was  seated  on  the  left  hand,  holding  a 
cross,  which  the  people  kissed  as  they  passed  in  and  out.  Occasionally  a book 
was  brought  to  the  patriarch  and  held  up  by  two  priests,  when  he  mumbled  a 
few  sentences  from  it.  When  the  time  for  the  consecration  of  the  bread  had 
nearly  arrived,  a small  waiter  with  a number  of  rolls  upon  it  was  brought  to 
him,  out  of  which,  after  a careful  examination,  he  selected  one,  which  was  then 
taken  and  placed,  ready  for  consecration,  upon  the  stone  altar  in  the  chancel. 

In  the  same  compartment  with  the  patriarch,  were  the  singers  and  the  offici- 
ating priests.  The  service  was  in  the  ancient  Coptic  language  ; but  the  epistle 
and  gospel  were  afterwards  read  in  Arabic,  that  they  might  be  understood  by 
the  people.  A part  of  the  service  consisted  in  singing  by  a choir,  occasionally 
assisted  by  the  congregation,  and  accompanied  by  stringed  and  wind  instru- 
ments, but  more  especially  by  cymbals,  which  were  loudly  struck,  and  which, 
perhaps  from  our  associating  them  with  the  ancient  Hebrew  music,  made  a not 
unpleasing  impression  upon  us.  The  whole  service,  wiih  the  slight  exception 
of  the  book  which  I mentioned,  seemed  to  be  performed  memoriter,  and  all 
appeared  to  be  perfectly  familiar  with  it.  In  the  same  portion  of  the  church, 
before  the  chancel,  there  were  a number  of  aged  men,  and  as  the  greater  part  of 
their  liturgy  is  celebrated  while  the  congregation  is  standing,  for  there  were  no 
seats  except  the  matted  floor,  we  observed  that  the  old  men  were  supported  by 
a kind  of  staff,  about  breast-high,  with  a cross-bar  upon  the  top.  They  reminded 
us  of  Jacob  worshipping,  “ leaning  upon  the  top  of  his  staff.”  A number  of 
these  convenient  crutches  were  hanging  upon  the  walls,  and  were  taken  down 
and  passed  from  one  to  another,  to  those  who  had  need  of  them.  The  liturgy 
being  in  the  ancient  language,  we  could  of  course  understand  little  of  the  order 
of  the  celebration,  nor  could  we  see  all  the  ceremonies,  on  account  of  the  screen 
between  us  and  the  chancel.  We  observed,  however,  that  a priest  came  several 
times  from  the  altar,  went  through  the  congregation  and  blessed  them,  laying 
his  hands  upon  their  heads.  From  the  large  division  appropriated  to  the  men, 


THE  COPTS — THEIR  NUMBERS  AND  CHARACTER. 


173 


he  then  proceeded  to  the  women’s  compartment,  which  was  divided  from  the 
rest  by  the  lattice-work  already  mentioned,  where,  as  we  understood,  the  same 
ceremony  was  repeated.  As  the  service  was  so  long  as  to  interfere  with  our 
own,  we  left  the  church  before  the , consecration  of  the  Eucharist;  but  we 
learned  that  it  is  customary,  at  the  conclusion,  for  the  people  to  approach  the 
officiating  priest,  who  then  divides  among  them  also  the  unconsecrated  rolls. 
We  are  informed  that  they  communicate  in  both  kinds,  observe  the  rite  of 
circumcision,  and  that  the  service  is  always  in  a language  which  not  even  the 
priests  now  understand.  The  latter  are  married,  though  the  monastic  order  is 
retained,  and  the  bishops  are  chosen  from  among  the  monks.  The  Coptic 
Christians  appear  to  be  a remnant  of  the  ancient  heretics  who  were  called 
Monophy sites  and  Monothelites,  and  whose  founder  was  Eutyches.  But  they 
themselves  profess  to  have  been  converted  by  St.  Mark,  and  that  their  patriarch 
occupies  the  seat  of  that  evangelist,  which  was  in  Alexandria,  though  he 
always  resides  at  Cairo.  They  are  nearly  150,000  in  number,  and  have  about 
130  churches  and  convents.  These  are  called  Jacobite  Copts.  They  have 
twelve  bishops  and  one  patriarch.  There  are  5000  more  that  conform  to  Rome, 
and  have  one  bishop  in  Egypt. 

The  Copts  are  extremely  devout  in  their  religious  observances,  and  have 
many  fasts  in  the  course  of  the  year ; but  it  is  to  be  feared  that  they  do  little 
credit  to  Christianity  by  their  conduct.  Indeed,  it  is  a sorrowful  thing  to 
declare  that  all  the  Christians  in  Egypt,  Greeks  and  others,  set  but  a sad  exam- 
ple to  the  Mohammedans,  and  little  is  to  be  hoped  from  any  influence  that  they 
will  exert  upon  the  followers  of  the  False  Prophet.  Indeed,  the  missionary, 
Mr.  Lieder,  assured  us  that  he  would  rather  deal  with  a Turk  than  with  an 
Egyptian  Christian.  This  statement,  however  unwillingly,  a regard  to  truth 
compels  me  to  make.  We  see  an  example  in  them,  not  of  Christianity,  but  of 
the  want  of  it,  and  that  the  ceremonies  of  religion,  or  its  shadows,  are  some- 
times made  to  supply  the  place  of  its  substance  or  reality. 

There  is  no  provision  among  the  Copts  for  female  education,  though  they 
have  numerous  schools  for  boys.  Mrs.  Lieder,  therefore,  deserves  the  greater 
credit  for  the  school  which  she  established  more  than  fourteen  years  ago,  when 


174 


THE  PETRIFIED  FOREST. 


you  could  scarcely  meet  a Coptic  woman  who  could  read.  I went  through  this 
school,  and  found  it  conducted  in  an  excellent  manner ; and  in  it  the  girls  were 
learning  to  read  and  to  sew,  and  to  perfect  themselves  in  other  branches  of 
domestic  industry. 

The  Copts  are  usually  thought  to  be  descendants  of  the  ancient  Egyptians, 
and  Yolney  has  an  ingenious  hypothesis  that  the  Arabic  word  Qoubti , a Copt, 
is  the  same  as  the  Greek  Au-yvir-TLos,  an  Egyptian. 

From  the  Coptic  church  I went  to  our  own,  and  had  the  comfort  of  enjoying 
more  by  the  contrast,  its  dignified  simplicity  and  devotion.  I had  come  from  a 
worship  that  had  all  the  appearance  of  a religion  of  mere  ceremonies,  conducted 
in  a language  unintelligible  to  the  people,  to  one  which  we  could  understand 
and  I trust  devoutly  feel.  Here  I had  the  happiness  of  celebrating  the  service, 
and,  together  with  a small  but  devout  congregation,  listened  to  a sermon  from 
the  Rev.  Mr.  Lieder. 

March  19 th.  — Our  stay  in  Egypt  was  now  drawing  to  a close,  and  we  began 
to  be  actively  employed  in  making  preparations  for  the  journey  to  the  Holy 
Land.  There  were  still,  however,  many  things  which  demanded  our  attention, 
and  which  we  felt  unwilling  to  leave  unseen.  During  the  latter  part  of  our 
sojourn  in  Cairo  we  had  been  frequently  asked  if  we  had  seen  the  petrified 
forest,  and  this  striking  name  occasioned  one  of  those  disappointments  to  which 
all  travellers  are  exposed.  For,  after  riding  about  seven  miles  through  a most 
desolate  country,  and  across  a portion  of  the  sands  of  the  desert,  we  came  to 
the  designated  spot,  and  instead  of  a stone  forest  of  standing  trees,  we  saw  only 
a hill,  presenting  the  appearance  of  a site  from  which  the  trees  had  been  cut 
off  and  carried  away,  while  the  chips  and  small  boughs  left  behind  were  turned 
to  a hard  and  heavy  substance  that  had  every  appearance  of  stone.  These 
remarkable  specimens  are  found  in  several  other  places  in  Egypt,  and  we  have 
from  a celebrated  traveller  the  following  account  of  them : u The  hills  that 
separate  the  two  valleys  are  covered  with  rounded  silicious  pebbles,  with  here 
and  there  pieces  of  petrified  wood  and  coarse  gritstone,  lying  amidst  loose  sand, 
the  rocks  below  being  a coarse  sandstone.  These  agatised  woods  are  mostly 
palms,  a knotted  wood,  apparently  of  a thorny  kind,  and  a jointed  stem 


A DINNER  AFTER  THE  TURKISH  FASHION. 


175 


resembling  a cane,  or  a solid  bamboo.  The  pebbles  and  woods  have  probably 
been  once  imbedded  in  a friable  layer  of  sandstone,  which  having  been  decom- 
posed and  carried  off  by  the  wind,  has  left  these  heavier  bodies  npon  the  sur- 
face of  the  stratum  next  beneath  it.” 

We  had  now  been  living  for  some  time  in  Egypt,  and  a portion  of  this 
period  had  been  spent  in  Cairo,  that  great  city  of  the  East ; and  yet  our  mode 
of  life  at  the  hotel,  and  in  the  boat  upon  the  Nile,  and  at  the  places  where  we 
had  been  entertained,  had  been  almost  entirely  European.  But  before  leaving 
Egypt  we  had  an  opportunity  of  dining  according  to  Oriental  custom.  The 
Egyptians  make  but  two  repasts  a day,  the  first  an  hour  before  noon,  and  the 
second,  whatever  may  be  the  season  of  the  year,  an  hour  before  sunset.  The 
first  is  called  dinner,  and  the  latter  the  supper,  which  is  the  principal  meal,  and 
to  this  we  had  been  invited.  Before  eating,  the  Muslim  carefully  washes  his 
hands  and  face.  A servant  attends  with  soap,  a basin  and  ewer,  and  the  towel 
upon  his  arm.  He  then  pours  water  upon  the  hands  of  each  of  the  guests, 
beginning,  however,  with  the  master  of  the  house,  according  to  the  custom  of 
the  times  when  “ Elisha  poured  water  on  the  hands  of  Elijah.”  The  water,  as 
it  falls  from  the  hands,  disappears  by  a cullender  in  the  basin,  and  is  not  seen 
after  having  been  used.  The  table  was  a simple  round  copper  tray,  raised  a 
few  inches  from  the  floor  by  a wooden  stool  upon  which  it  stood,  and  around 
this  we  sat,  our  hosts  easily  placing  themselves  in  the  cross-legged  manner, 
which  we  found  more  difficult,  but  after  a little  contrivance  managed  to  get  into 
position.  Of  course  neither  plates,  knives  nor  forks  were  visible,  but  only  a 
piece  of  bread  and  a spoon  before  each.  First  came  a soup,  then  a pilaf,  and 
several  other  dishes,  and  last  of  all  a small  leg  of  mutton.  We  felt  curious  to 
know  how  they  would  manage  to  eat  this,  without  knives  and  forks ; but  our 
hosts  found  no  difficulty,  and  helped  themselves  very  skilfully  with  the  thumb 
and  two  fingers,  while  we  did  the  best  we  could  with  our  spoons.  At  length 
one  of  our  Oriental  friends  took  the  whole  joint  in  his  hands,  and  quietly  broke 
it  in  pieces,  which  was  easily  done,  as  it  had  been  thoroughly  cooked ; and  thus 
all  the  purposes  of  carving  were  answered.  The  dinner  was  soon  over,  and 
water  being  again  brought  in,  and  the  hands  and  mouth  washed  once  more,  we 


176 


OUR  DEPARTURE  FROM  EGYPT. 


seated  ourselves  upon  the  divan,  and  pipes  and  coffee  wound  up  the  scene. 
During  the  repast,  however,  we  were  not  without  music  of  a singular  kind,  for 
every  now  and  then  a chant  would  suddenly  break  out  from  some  person 
evidently  in  the  house.  On  inquiry,  we  found  that  one  of  the  relatives  of  our 
hospitable  Egyptian  was  a singer  in  the  mosques,  and  was  now  chanting  por- 
tions of  the  Koran.  It  is  considered  a great  blessing  to  a house  to  have  a holy 
person  of  this  description  beneath  the  roof,  and  thus  employed  in  exercises  of 
devotion. 

March  20th.  — This  day  was  devoted  to  taking  leave  of  our  friends  and 
making  final  arrangements  for  our  journey.  It  was  not  without  some  sincere 
regrets  that  we  now  looked  forward  to  our  departure  from  Egypt ; for  though 
we  had  seen  and  enjoyed  so  much,  we  were  quite  aware  that  there  was  still 
much  left  behind  us  unseen.  But  calling  up  the  objects  that  have  most  vividly 
impressed  themselves  upon  the  memory,  I find  that  the  declaration  of  Tacitus 
in  regard  to  Germanicus  may  not  inaptly  be  applied  to  us : Visit  veterum  The- 
barum  magna  vestigia.  — Ceterum  Germanicus  aliis  quoque  miraculis  intendit 
animum  ; quorum  prsecipua  fuere  Memnonis  saxea  effigies,  ubi  radiis  solis  icta 
est,  vocalem  sonum  reddens  : disjectasque  inter  et  vix  pervias  arenas,  instar 
montium  eductas  Pyramides,  certamine  et  opibus  regum.  Germanicus  visited 
the  mighty  ruins  of  ancient  Thebes.  His  attention  was  arrested  by  other  won- 
ders also ; of  these  the  chief  were  the  stone  statue  of  Menmon,  which,  touched 
by  the  rays  of  the  sun,  gives  forth  a vocal  sound ; and  the  Pyramids,  built  up 
like  mountains  by  the  emulation  and  the  wealth  of  kings  in  the  barren  and 
almost  impassable  sandy  desert. 

From  these  wonders  we  turn  to  the  Holy  Land. 


€Jj t ^tjrntnik 


In  his  original  and  learned  work,  “De  la  destination  et  de  l’utilit^  perma- 
nente  des  Pyramides,”  etc.,  M.  de  Persigny  has  given  us  such  details  as  may 
attract  the  attention  of  those  who  desire  mathematical  correctness  as  to  the 
several  items  of  situation,  shape,  height,  and  size  of  the  Pyramids.  For  most 
of  the  measurements  he  is  indebted  to  Col.  Howard  Yyse. 


THE  PYRAMIDS  OF  GHIZEIL 

These  monuments  stand  upon  a platform  of  an  elipsoidal  figure,  forming  a 
projecting  point  of  the  Libyan  range  of  mountains,  between  two  higher  por- 
tions on  the  south  and  north.  The  height  of  this  platform  is  about  one  hundred 
and  thirty-seven  feet  above  the  valley,  its  length  nearly  7000  feet  from  east  to 
west,  between  the  boundary  of  the  cultivated  lands  and  the  last  spurs  of  the 
Libyan  chain.  The  breadth  of  this  elevated  platform,  from  south  to  north,  is 
about  5000  feet.  The  distance  from  Ghizeh  is  a little  more  than  five  miles. 

The  base  of  the  Great  Pyramid  is  one  hundred  and  thirty-eight  feet  above 
the  Nile  ; that  of  the  second  over  thirty-three,  and  of  the  third  over  forty-one 
feet  higher. 


23 


178 


THE  PYRAMIDS  OF  GHIZEH. 


DIMENSIONS  OF  THE  GREAT  PYRAMID. 


Feet. 

Inches. 

Original  base, 

. 

. 764 

00 

Present  “ . 

746 

00 

Original  height, 

. 480 

09 

Present  “ . 

450 

09 

Original  height,  inclined, 

. 

. 611 

00 

Present  “ “ . 

. 

568 

03 

Angle  of  casing  stones,  50°  507. 

DIMENSIONS  OF 

THE  SECOND  PYRAMID. 

Original  base, 

. 

. 707 

09 

Present  “ 

. 

690 

09 

Original  height, 

. 

. 454 

03 

Present  “ 

. 

444 

03 

Original  height,  inclined, 

O O"  7 

. 

. 572 

06 

Present  “ “ 

. 

563 

06 

Angle,  52°  20'. 

DIMENSIONS  OF 

THE  THIRD  PYRAMID. 

Original  base,  . . . 

. 

. 354 

06 

Present  “ 

. 

333 

00 

Original  height, 

. 

. 218 

00 

Present  “ . 

203 

00 

Original  height,  inclined, 

. 

. 278 

20 

Present  “ “ . 

. 

203 

00 

Angle  of  inclination,  51°. 

The  base  of  the  Great  Pyramid  covered  13  acres  1 rood  and  22  poles.  It  is 
now  diminished,  by  gradual  accumulations  around  it,  to  12  acres  3 roods  and 
3 poles. 

The  second  Pyramid  still  covers  nearly  11,  and  the  third  almost  3 acres. 


SOLID  CONTENTS  OF  THE  GREAT  PYRAMID. 


179 


But  all  these  particulars  will  hardly  serve  to  give  the  reader  a just  idea  of 
the  vast  accumulation  of  stones  in  these  artificial  mountains.  Sir  Gardner 
Wilkinson  says  : “ The  solid  contents  of  the  Great  Pyramid  have  been  calcu- 
lated at  85,000,000  cubic  feet ; and  it  has  been  computed  that  there  is  space 
enough  in  this  mass  of  masonry  for  8,700  rooms  of  the  same  size  as  the  King’s 
Chamber,  leaving  the  contents  of  every  second  chamber  solid  by  way  of  sepa- 
ration.” 

I might  be  somewhat  unwilling  to  give,  on  my  own  authority,  another 
statement,  which  will  better  convey  the  idea  of  their  enormous  dimensions,  and 
show  in  what  manner  the  Pyramids  have  impressed  some  travellers.  The  cele- 
brated Prench  savant,  M.  D’Abbadie,  whom  I met  on  the  passage  to  Alexan- 
dria, informed  me  that  a scientific  countryman  of  his  had  computed  that  the 
materials  of  the  Great  Pyramid  would  be  “sufficient  to  build  a wall,  high  and 
strong  enough  for  fencing  purposes,  around  the  whole  kingdom  of  France  I ” 
I give  this  statement,  as  I received  it,  adding  that  a rough  calculation  did  not 
make  it  appear  absolutely  incredible. 

Some  further  details  from  the  account  of  Sir  G.  Wilkinson  will  serve  to 
assist  the  reader  in  forming  an  idea  of  the  interior  of  the  Great  Pyramid. 


“ The  masonry  over  the  entrance  is  very  singular : two  large  blocks  resting 
against  each  other,  form  a sort  of  pointed  arch,  and  serve  to  take  off  the  super- 


180 


INTERIOR  OF  THE  GREAT  PYRAMID. 


incumbent  weight  from  the  roof  of  the  passage.  On  going  down  the  passage, 
at  about  eighty  feet  from  its  present  mouth,  you  perceive  the  end  of  a granite 
block,  which  closes  the  upper  passage,  and  which  was  once  carefully  concealed 
by  a triangular  piece  of  stone  fitting  into  the  roof  of  the  lower  passage,  and 
secured  in  that  position  by  a cramp  on  either  side.  This  stone  has  been 
removed,  and  the  end  of  the  granite  it  once  covered  is  now  exposed.  But  the 
granite  closing  the  upper  passage  remains  in  its  original  place ; and  in  order  to 
avoid  and  pass  above  it,  you  turn  to  the  right  by  a forced  passage,  and  after 
climbing  a few  rough  steps,  you  come  to  its  upper  extremity,  and  ascend  to  the 
great  gallery ; on  entering  which  to  the  right  you  perceive  the  entrance  to  the 
well,  which  served  as  another  communication  with  the  lower  passage.  The 
angle  of  the  upper  passage  is  the  same  as  that  of  the  lower  one,  and  both  have 
the  same  direction,  which  is  due  south ; but  one  runs  down  to  a subterranean 
room,  the  other  up  to  the  entrance  of  the  great  gallery,  where  a horizontal  pas- 
sage leads  to  what  is  called  the  queen’s  chamber.  This  stands  in  the  centre  of 
the  Pyramid.  The  stones  in  the  side-walls  are  admirably  fitted  together,  so 
that  the  joints  can  scarcely  be  traced ; and  an  incrustation  of  salt  has  tended 
still  more  to  give  them  the  appearance  of  having  been  hewn  in  the  solid  rock, 
which,  however,  on  close  inspection,  proves  not  to  be  the  case.” 

The  king’s  chamber  is  84  feet  long,  17  feet  7 inches  broad,  and  19  feet  2 
inches  high.  The  roof  is  flat,  and  this  and  the  side-walls  are  of  granite.  It 
contains  a sarcophagus  of  the  same  red  granite,  nearly  7^  feet  long,  and  only 
three  inches  narrower  than  the  door  by  which  it  was  admitted.  It  gives  back, 
on  being  struck,  a sound  like  a deep-toned  bell.  It  has,  however,  been  almost 
destroyed,  not  by  Turks  but  by  travellers.  There  are  no  hieroglyphics  nor  any 
sculpture  upon  it.  There  are  small  holes  or  tubes  in  the  side-walls,  intended, 
as  Col.  Yyse  ascertained,  to  conduct  air  into  the  Pyramid.  There  are  four 
other  low  rooms  over  the  king’s  chamber,  designed,  no  doubt,  to  protect  the 
latter  from  the  pressure  of  the  mass  of  stones  above  it. 

The  Pyramid  is  supposed  to  have  been  first  opened  about  a thousand  years 
ago,  by  the  Caliph  Mamoon,  who  expected  to  discover  treasures  within.  The 
real  entrance,  not  being  in  the  centre,  and  probably  purposely  placed  elsewhere 


THE  FALSE  PYRAMID. 


181 


to  conceal  it,  a forced  passage  was  made  with  great  labor,  and  after  the  work- 
men liad  penetrated  about  one  hundred  feet,  the  true  passage  was  discovered  by 
accident.  But  neither  search  nor  accident  revealed  the  looked  for  treasure,  and 
as  the  people  began  to  complain  of  the  fruitless  toil,  the  Caliph  ordered  a sum 
of  money  to  be  secretly  deposited  in  the  Pyramid,  and  when  this  was  found 
the  people  were  satisfied  I 

Whether  the  Pyramids  were  intended  for  royal  tombs,  or  as  mausolea  for 
the  bones  of  the  Egyptian  god  Apis,  or  for  observatories,  or  to  protect  the  fer- 
tile lands  against  the  encroachments  of  the  sands  of  the  desert  — all  these  and 
similar  conjectures  must  remain  but  conjectures  still. 

On  our  voyage  down  the  river  I mentioned  coming  in  sight  of  the  false 
pyramid  (page  155).  This  is  situated  at  Meydoun,  and  is  the  first  which  strikes 
the  eye  of  the  traveller  upon  descending  the  Nile  from  Thebes,  and  of  course 
the  last  seen  upon  the  upward  voyage.  It  takes  its  name  either  from  its  unique 
formation,  or  because  a large  portion  of  it  consists  of  the  rock  itself  on  which 
it  is  built.  It  does  not  rise  like  the  others  from  its  base  to  its  apex  by  a con- 
tinuous line,  but  looks  like  sections  of  three  distinct  pyramids  set  one  upon  the 
other.  The  lower  section  measures  199  feet  at  the  base,  and  69  in  height ; the 
second,  127  feet  at  the  base,  and  32  in  height;  and  the  third,  which  is  in  a 
ruinous  state,  and  the  base  therefore  not  distinctly  defined,  is  about  22  feet  in 
height.  Thus  the  whole  height  of  this  singular  structure  is  only  about  124 
feet. 

There  are  six  smaller  Pyramids  near  those  of  G-hizeh,  three  at  Abousir, 
five  at  Dashour,  and  eleven  at  Sakkara.  Indeed,  the  number  of  the  Pyramids 
scattered  throughout  Egypt  and  Nubia  is  much  greater  than  the  reader  usually 
imagines,  as  his  attention  is  preoccupied  with  the  superior  size  of  the  most 
famous  of  these  wonderful  monuments  at  Ghizeh. 


CljflM. 

INTERIOR  OF  THE  TOMBS. 

A full  and  accurate  description  of  all  the  tombs  which  have  been  opened  in 
the  neighborhood  of  Thebes,  upon  the  western  side  of  the  river,  would  be  a 
work  of  great. magnitude  and  no  small  difficulty.  Nor  would  such  description 
be  easily  intelligible  without  numerous  drawings.  Those  therefore  of  my 
readers  who  wish  to  enter  more  extensively  into  this  interesting  investigation 
must  be  referred  to  the  extensive  and  elaborately  illustrated  works  which  have 
been  published  upon  the  subject,  and  especially  to  Rossellini’s  magnificent  work 
on  Egypt.  The  general  character  of  the  paintings  and  sculptures  which  the 
walls  of  the  tombs  exhibit,  may  be  gathered  from  the  brief  notices  I have  given 
in  the  text.  We  had-  been  anxious  to  ascend  the  river  higher,  and  if  possible 
reach  the  first  cataract ; but  we . found  that  we  could  not  safely  make  this 
attempt,  and  yet  hope  to  reach  Jerusalem  by  Easter ; it  was  therefore  aban- 
doned. Had  we  however  proceeded,  we  should  have  stopped  at  Eilethyas,  upon 
the  east  side  of  the  river,  for  the  purpose  of  seeing  some  tombs  or  grottoes, 
which  are  said  to  be  very  remarkable.  A description  of  one  of  these,  from  an 
unpublished  journal  of  Mr.  Ramsay,  quoted  by  Lord  Lindsay,  is  so  graphic, 
and  serves  to  give  such  an  accurate  idea  of  the  scenes  depicted  in  many  of  the 
tombs,  that  I insert  it,  as  the  book  has  not  been  republished  in  this  country. 


TOMB  AT  EILETHYAS. 


183 


“ The  history  begins  from  childhood.  The  principal  figures  are  the  person 
and  his  wife,  seated  together  on  a chair  under  which  is  a pet  monkey : they 
appear  to  be  on  loving  terms,  and  are  entertaining  a party  of  friends,  who  sit 
opposite  a large  collection  of  dainties : pages  pour  water  on  their  hands,  present 
them  with  lotus  leaves,  &c.  Behind  are  all  the  preparations — the  butchers  are 
killing  and  cutting  up  the  oxen  (very  well  executed) — the  process  of  cooking 
goes  on — the  guests  come  over  the  river  in  boats.  In  another  part,  the  propri- 
etor comes,  in  his  car  to  superintend  all  his  rural  affairs ; ploughing,  sowing, 
reaping,  threshing,  stowing,  and  weighing  the  corn,  and  selling  it  for  money  in 
rings,  and  every  thing  connected  with  agriculture,  are  minutely  represented. 
The  songs  of  the  different  occupations  are  written  above,  and  Champollion  has 
read  them,  he  says.  Droves  of  oxen,  donkeys,  sheep,  &c.,  very  spiritedly  done, 
are  brought  up  to  scribes,  who  register  them.  The  similarity,  and,  in  many 
instances,  identity  of  things  in  common  use  with  those  used  now  in  the  coun- 
try, is  very  striking.  The  filtering  water-jars,  and  their  wooden  stands,  are 
the  very  same  ; the  plough  is  the  same,  and  the  head-dress  also.  In  one  place 
boats  are  represented,  some  sailing,  others  being  rowed,  and  others  getting 
mended,  or  being  charged  or  emptied.  Our  sailors  were  in  raptures  with  them, 
and  found  out  their  own  likenesses  in  the  crew.  The  sail  used  was  a very 
strange  one.  Again,  they  are  drawing  large  nets  for  wild  geese,  which  are  no 
sooner  caught  than  plucked,  dressed,  and  served  up.  The  funeral  is  a very 
conspicuous  part.  In  some  the  process  of  embalming  is  shown  very  clearly. 
The  body  was  placed  on  a bier,  resting  on  a sledge,  to  which  a long  cord  was 
attached,  the  end  of  which  was  fastened  to  a cow,  and  all  the  mourners  had  a 
hold  of  it.  In  some  the  preparations  and  sport  of  hunting  are  represented. 
These  tombs  are  of  the  period  of.  the  eighteenth  dynasty — about  3300  ago ; the 
colors  are  as  fresh  as  ever,  and  except  where  the  people,  who  probably  live  in 
them  at  times,  or  strangers,  have  broken  them  down,  they  are  not  in  the  least 
the  worse  for  their  longevity.  The  precision  with  which  the  dates  of  all  these 
places  is  determined  is  quite  clear ; they  have  the  dates  inscribed,  even  to  the 
day  and  month,  in  general.” 

The  allusion  in  this  description  to  the  fact  that  people  at  times  live  in  these 


184 


GRADUAL  DESTRUCTION  OF  THE  PAINTINGS. 


tombs,  recalls  to  me  tbe  visit  we  made  to  one  of  the  private  tombs,  in  which  a 
family  had  actually  taken  up  their  permanent  abode.  I allude  to  it  in  the  body 
of  the  work  at  page  120.  It  is  situated  towards  the  summit  of  the  hill  behind 
the  Memnonium,  having  its  aspect  towards  the  east,  and  has  this  peculiarity, 
that  instead  of  descending  into  the  rock,  the  excavation  ascends.  The  people 
live  in  the  mouth  of  the  tomb,  or  its  anterior  portion,  where  there  is  light  and 
air.  A part  of  it  was  used  as  a stable  for  sheep  and  cattle.  The  excavation  is 
not  nearly  as  extensive  as  in  the  tombs  of  the  kings,  but  still  nothing  could  be 
seen  of  the  paintings  without  the  light  of  torches — or  rather  what  we  were 
obliged  to  use  for  want  of  better  helps,  dry  faggots  and  straw.  It  is  obvious, 
therefore,  that  the  process  of  obscuration  of  the  paintings,  or  rather  the  destruc- 
tion of  them,  is  going  on  very  rapidly.  It  cannot  be  many  years  before  the 
traveller  will  see  nothing  but  blackened  walls,  where  we  could  trace,  though  in 
some  places  with  considerable  difficulty,  the  lively  delineation  of  a number  of 
most  interesting  subjects.  In  prospect  of  the  speedy  and  utter  destruction  of 
these  striking  representations  of  the  manners  of  a people  who  lived  thousands 
of  years  ago,  it  is  fortunate  that  Sir  Gardner  Wilkinson  has  given  us  a descrip- 
tion, to  the  perfect  accuracy  of  which  we  can  testify. 

“ This  is  by  far  the  most  curious,  I may  say,  of  all  the  private  tombs  in 
Thebes,  since  it  throws  more  light  on  the  manners  and  customs  of  the  Egyp- 
tians than  any  hitherto  discovered. 

“ In  the  outer  chamber,  on  the  left  hand  (entering),  is  a grand  procession  of 
Ethiopian  and  Asiatic  chiefs,  bearing  a tribute  to  the  Egyptian  monarch, 
Thothmes  III.  They  are  arranged  in  five  lines.  The  first  or  uppermost  con- 
sists of  blacks,  and  others  of  a red  color,  from  the  country  of  Pount,  who  bring 
ivory,  apes,  leopards,  skins,  and  dried  fruits.  Their  dress  is  short,  similar  to 
that  of  some  of  the  Asiatic  tribes,  who  are  represented  at  Medeenet  Haboo. 

“ In  the  second  line  are  a people  of  a light  red  hue,  with  long  black  hair 
descending  in  ringlets  over  their  shoulders,  but  without  beards : their  dress  also 
consists  of  a short  apron,  thrown  round  the  lower  part  of  the  body,  meeting 
and  folding  over  in  front,  and  they  wear  sandals  richly  worked.  Their  presents 
are  vases  of  elegant  form,  ornamented  with  flowers,  necklaces,  and  other  costly 


REPRESENTATION  OF  ANCIENT  PEOPLES. 


185 


gifts,  which,  according  to  the  hieroglyphics,  they  bring  as  ‘ chosen  (offerings)  of 
the  chiefs  of  the  Gentiles  of  Rufa/ 

“ In  the  third  line  are  Ethiopians,  who  are  styled  £ Gentiles  of  the  South.’ 
The  leaders  are  dressed  in  the  Egyptian  costume,  the  others  have  a girdle  of 
skin,  with  the  hair,  as  usual,  outwards.  They  bring  gold  rings,  and  bags  of 
precious  stones  (?),  hides,  apes,  leopards,  ebony,  ivory,  ostrich  eggs,  and  plumes, 
a camelopard,  hounds  with  handsome  collars,  and  a drove  of  long-horned 
oxen. 

“ The  fourth  line  is  composed  of  men  of  a northern  nation,  clad  in  long 
white  garments,  with  a blue  border,  tied  at  the  neck,  and  ornamented  with  a 
cross  or  other  devices.  On  their  head  is  either  a close  cap,  or  their  natural 
hair,  short,  and  of  a red  color,  and  they  have  a small  beard.  Some  bring  long 
gloves , which,  with  their  close  sleeves,  indicate,  as  well  as  their  white  color,  that 
they  are  the  inhabitants  of  a cold  clime.  Among  other  offerings  are  vases, 
similar  to  those  of  the  Kufa,  a chariot  and  horses,  a bear,  elephant,  and  ivory. 
Their  name  is  Rot-n-no,  which  reminds  us  of  the  Ratheni  of  Arabia  Petrsea ; 
but  the  style  of  their  dress  and  the  nature  of  their  offerings  require  them  to 
have  come  from  a richer  and  more  civilized  country,  probably  much  farther  to 
the  north. 

“In  the  fifth  line  Egyptians  lead  the  van,  and  are  followed  by  women  of 
Ethiopia  (Cush),  ‘ the  Gentiles  of  the  South,’  carrying  their  children  in  a pan- 
nier suspended  from  their  head.  Behind  these  are  the  wives  of  the  Rot-n-no, 
who  are  dressed  in  long  robes,  divided  into  three  sets  of  ample  flounces. 

££  The  offerings  being  placed  in  the  presence  of  the  monarch,  who  is  seated 
on  his  throne  at  the  upper  part  of  the  picture,  an  inventory  is  taken  of  them 
by  the  Egyptian  scribes.  Those  opposite  the  upper  line  consist  of  baskets  of 
dried  fruits,  gold  rings,  and  two  obelisks. 

u On  the  second  line  are  ingots  and  rings  of  silver,  gold  and  silver  vases  of 
very  elegant  form,  and  several  heads  of  animals  of  the  same  metals. 

“ On  the  third  are  ostrich  eggs  and  feathers,  ebony,  precious  stones,  and 
rings  of  gold,  an  ape,  several  silver  cups,  ivory,  leopard-skins,  ingots  and  rings 
of  gold,  sealed  bags  of  precious  stones,  and  other  objects ; and  on  the  fourth 


24 


186 


REPRESENTATION  OF  VARIOUS  TRADES. 


line  are  gold  and  silver  rings,  vases  of  the  same  metal  and  of  porcelain,  with 
rare  woods  and  various  other  rich  presents. 

“ The  inner  chamber  contains  subjects  of  the  most  interesting  and  diversified 
kind.  Among  them,  on  the  left  (entering),  are  cabinet-makers,  carpenters,  rope- 
makers,  and  sculptors,  some  of  whom  are  engaged  in  levelling  and  squaring  a 
stone,  and  others  in  finishing  a sphinx,  with  two  colossal  statues  of  the  king. 
The  whole  process  of  brick-making  is  also  introduced.  Their  bricks  were  made 
with  a simple  mould ; the  stamp  (for  they  bore  the  name  of  a king,  or  of  ^ome 
high-priest)  was  not  on  the  pallet,  but  was  apparently  impressed  on  the  upper 
surface  previous  to  their  drying.  But  they  do  not  seem  to  have  used  pressure 
while  exposing  them  to  the  sun,  as  I had  supposed,  from  the  compact  nature  of 
Egyptian  crude-bricks,  several  of  which  I have  found  as  firm  as  when  first 
made,  bearing  the  name  of  Thothmes  III.,  the  cotemporary  of  Moses,  in  whose 
reign  this  tomb  was  also  executed. 

11  They  are  not,  however,  Jews,  as  some  have  supposed  ; but  of  the  countries 
mentioned  in  the  sculptures.  It  is  sufficiently  interesting  to  find  a subject  illus- 
trating so  completely  the  description  of  the  Jews  and  their  taskmasters,  given 
in  the  Bible,  without  perverting  the  truth  to  give  them  additional  importance. 

u Others  are  employed  in  heating  a liquid  over  a charcoal  fire,  to  which  are 
applied,  on  either  side,  a pair  of  bellows.  These  are  worked  by  the  feet,  the 
operator  standing  and  pressing  them  alternately,  while  he  pulls  up  each 
exhausted  skin  by  a string  he  holds  in  his  hand.  In  one  instance  the  man  has 
left  the  bellows,  but  they  are  raised,  as  if  full  of  air,  which  would  imply  a 
knowledge  of  the  valve.  Another  singular  fact  is  learnt  from  these  frescoes — 
their  acquaintance  with  the  use  of  glue,  which  is  heated  on  the  fire,  and 
spread,  with  a thick  brush,  on  a level  piece  of  board.  One  of  the  workmen 
then  applies  two  pieces  of  different  colored  wood  to  each  other,  and  this  circum- 
stance seems  to  decide  that  glue  is  here  intended  to  be  represented,  rather  than 
a varnish,  or  color  of  any  kind. 

“ On  the  opposite  wall  the  attitude  of  a maid-servant  pouring  out  some  wine 
to  a lady,  one  of  the  guests,  and  returning  an  empty  cup  to  a black  slave  who 
stands  behind  her,  is  admirably  portrayed  ; nor  does  it  offer  the  stiff  position  of 


DESCRIPTION  OF  THE  MEMNONIUM. 


187 


an  Egyptian  figure.  And  the  manner  in  which  the  slave  is  drawn,  holding  a 
plate  with  her  arm  and  hand  reversed,  is  very  characteristic  of  a custom  pecu- 
liar to  the  blacks.  The  guests  are  entertained  by  music,  and  the  women  here 
sit  apart  from  the  men.  Several  other  subjects  are  worthy  of  notice  in  this 
tomb ; among  which  may  be  mentioned  a garden  (on  the  right-hand  wall) 
where  the  personage  of  the  tomb  is  introduced  in  his  boat,  towed  on  a lake  sur- 
rounded by  Theban  palms  and  date-trees.  Numerous  liturgies  (or  parentalia) 
are  performed  to  the  mummy  of  the  deceased;  and  a list  of  offerings,  at  the 
upper  end  of  the  tomb,  are  registered,  with  their  names  and  number,  in  sepa- 
rate columns.’ ’ 


THE  TEMPLES. 

The  reader  will  be  assisted  in  comprehending  my  brief  description  of  the 
Memnonium  by  the  following  ground  plan  and  sketch  of  the  pillars  of  the  great 
hall.  I give  them,  together  with  the  explanation,  in  the  words  of  the  artist  by 
whom  they  were  drawn ; to  whom  also  the  reader  is  indebted  for  the  beautiful 
and  accurate  illustrations  contained  in  this  volume,  W.  H.  Bartlett,  Esq.,  author 
of  “Forty  Days  in  the  Desert,”  and  “The  Nile  Boat.” 


The  Memnonium,  though  not  the  most  colossal,  is  perhaps  the  most  chaste 
and  elegant  specimen  of  Egyptian  architecture,  at  its  period  of  characteristic 
perfection,  before  its  proportions  were  altered  by  the  infusion  of  Grecian  taste. 
It  was  originally  a vast  and  sumptuous  structure,  the  effect  of  which,  even  in 
its  present  fragmentary  state,  it  is  not  difficult  to  imagine.  Its  lofty  propylea, 
or  gateway  towers,  covered  with  historical  sculptures,  gave  access  to  the  first 
open  court,  in  which  stood  the  colossal  statue,  the  fragments  of  which  we  have 
just  described. 


188 


GRAND  HALL  OF  THE  MEMNONIUM. 


Through  this  there  was  a passage  into  the  second  court,  having,  on  two 
sides,  the  rows  of  the  Osiride  columns,  and  the  two  remaining  ones  of  circular 
columns,  part  of  which  corridor  is  seen  in  the  annexed  view.  The  entire  effect 
of  this  second  court  must  have  been  imposing  in  the  extreme.  Three  flights  of 
steps  led  up  from  its  Open  area  into  the  northern  corridor  of  Osiride  pillars ; on 
each  side  of  the  centre  one  was  a black  granite  statue  of  Rameses  II.  With 
his  spirit  awed  by  this  display  of  magnificence,  the  spectator  next  advanced 
from  this  corridor  into  the  Grand  Hall , the  azure  roof  of  which  rose  above  his 
head,  studded  with  golden  stars,  and  was  supported  upon  a central  colonnade  of 
twelve  massive,  yet  elegant  columns. 


I have  before  quoted  a passage  from  the  private  and  unpublished  journal  of 
Mr.  Ramsay,  as  given  by  Lord  Lindsay  in  a note  to  one  of  his  interesting  letters 
on  Egypt,  and  I cannot  do  better  than  conclude  this  attempt  to  convey  to  the 
reader  some  idea  (imperfect  it  must  be)  of  the  wondrous  remains  of  Thebes, 
than  by  drawing  from  the  same  source.  So  just,  forcible,  and  discriminating 
are  the  few  criticisms  of  Mr.  Ramsay,  communicated  to  us,  that  we  unavoidably 
regret  not  having  been  put  in  possession  of  his  whole  journal. 

“ There  is  extreme  spirit  and  boldness  in  the  execution,  and  the  story  is  told 


K A R N A K 


V 


EGYPTIAN  ART  OF  DESIGN. 


189 


most  distinctly  and  plainly.  Though  modern  artists  might  have  more  correct 
ideas  of  perspective  and  true  proportions,  yet  I doubt  if  any  of  them,  following 
those  rules,  could  so  clearly  represent,  in  the  same  space,  the  subjects  contained 
in  these.  The  liberty  used  by  the  sculptor,  of  giving  you  ground-plans,  or 
elevations,  or  both,  as  it  suits  his  purpose,  is  undoubtedly  contrary  to  all  just 
rules  of  drawing ; but  one’s  eye  soon  accustoms  itself  and  ceases  to  be  offended, 
while  the  story  is  told  with  much  greater  facility  and  correctness.” 

Sculptures  at  Medinet  Habou.  — “ It  is  difficult  to  analyze  one’s  feelings  with 
regard  to  these  drawings  ; except  in  the  hieroglyphical  representations  of 
animals,  (which  are  perfect ,)  nothing  is  critically  correct ; you  confess  that  the 
drawing  of  every  thing  is  most  faulty,  but  yet  the  soul  and  fire,  the  animation 
and  expression  in  the  figures,  is  most  wonderful ! A lion  wounded,  for  exam- 
ple, strikes  you  as  the  most  admirably  expressive  and  living  thing  ever  drawn  ; 
but  look  again,  and  though  the  idea  of  a lion  in  agony  and  rage  has  been  most 
forcibly  represented  to  your  mind,  yet  there  is  not  a single  line  of  the  lion 
critically  correct.” 

“ In  a neighboring  tomb  to  the  first  we  saw  at  Qoornet  Murraee,  a group  of 
oxen  is  splendidly  drawn.  I don’t  think  I ever  saw  finer  execution  ; the  rules 
of  perspective  are  quite  observed ; the  gambols  of  the  calves  in  every  possible 
position,  and  the  free  touch  and  taste  of  the  whole,  are  admirable.  Near  them 
are  a few  which  have  been  fatted,  for  show,  I suppose  — not  less  beautifully 
done.  It  is  thus  in  almost  all  of  the  tombs ; here  and  there,  amidst  the  com- 
mon work  of  routine  of  professed  painters,  a master  hand  has  been  called  in  to 
dash  off  a few  groups.  In  one  it  was  particularly  evident  — two  groups  were 
unfinished  in  the  middle  of  a series  of  the  usual  representations  of  a funeral  — 
they  were  merely  sketched  in  with  red  paint,  but  with  a vigor  and  correctness 
of  proportion  which  would  have  done  honor  to  Raphael.” 

“ The  grand  entrance-hall  is  the  place  which  stamps  Karnak  as  the  first 
architectural  ruin  in  the  world.  Ammon  had  indeed  a magnificent  temple 
for  his  worship.  The  varied  style  of  the  columns  is  interesting ; some  are  as 
old  as  Joseph’s  time.  On  the  last  propylon  towards  Luxor  are  the  torsos  of 
two  lovely  statues,  perhaps  twenty-five  or  thirty  feet  high ; they  are  much 


190 


ENDURING  IMPRESSIONS. 


mutilated  and  have  no  heads,  but  what  remains  of  their  sculpture  and  contour 
is  beautifully  graceful,  and  yet  in  the  Egyptian  style,  arms  close  to  the  sides, 
and  left  foot  advanced.  The  priests  seem  to  have  employed  real  master  geni- 
uses, but  to  have  confined  them  to  certain  fixed  forms,  at  least  in  the  human 
figure ; for  where  they  are  freed  from  these  shackles,  as  in  the  animals  in  the 
phonetic  hieroglyphics,  nothing  can  surpass  the  execution  of  the  drawing,  as 
well  as  the  finishing.  Hundreds  of  sphinxes,  statues,  and  figures  of  all  sorts, 
are  lying  about  this  grand  approach.  One  sphinx,  in  particular,  made  a great 
impression  on  me  ; they  say  all  sphinxes  are  male,  but  the  features  of  a really 
sweet,  pretty  girl,  could  not  be  mistaken ; and  though  her  nose,  part  of  her 
mouth,  and  chin  were  gone,  yet  one  hardly  missed  them,  what  remained  was  so 
pretty  and  elegant.  One  pitied  the  poor  thing  being  tacked  to  such  an  uncouth 
body  as  that  of  a sphinx,  and  obliged  to  sit  in  line  with  a hundred  uninterest- 
ing fellows  for  ever,  as  it  were  fascinated  down  by  the  wand  of  some  ancient 
magician.” 

“ Off  Luxor.  We  have  revisited  the  temple  here,  and  walked  as  far  as  Kar- 
nak,  which  is  certainly  the  most  stupendous  thing  conceivable.  Every  thing 
else  sinks  into  perfect  insignificance  in  the  comparison.  But  we  could  only 
give  a hurried  glance  before  the  sun  set.  We  revisited  the  crowds  of  sphinxes 
and  broken  statues  on  the  grand  southern  approach.  There  is  a great  deal  that 
is  uncouth  and  unskilful,  the  effect  of  which  is  only  to  be  estimated  by  their 
situation  as  parts  of  a grand  whole,  and  the  constrained  stiffness  of  which  must 
be  explained  and  excused  by  the  despotic  influence  of  form  and  custom  in  reli- 
gious matters,  studiously  inculcated  and  preserved  by  the  priests ; but  there  are 
among  them  forms  of  eternal  beauty,  such  as  remain  henceforth  part  and  parcel 
of  one’s  mind  — pure  and  clear  as  truth  — no  mystery,  no  mere  symbol  of 
mystical  priestcraft,  but  a bright  embodying  of  the  soul  of  genius,  which  speaks 
from  mind  to  mind  at  the  interval  of  three  thousand  years.” 


THE  END. 


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A NEW,  COMPLETE,  AND  ELEGANT  EDITION  OF 

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***  This  is  the  first  complete  American  edition  of  this  standard  poet,  published  in  a handsome  and  enduring  form. 

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A NEW,  COMPLETE,  AND  ELEGANT  EDITION  OF 

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INCLUDING  OLIVER  NEWMAN  AND  OTHER  POEMS,  (NOW  FIRST  PUBLISHED.) 

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fond  of  elegant  literature  ” — C.rJer.tir  Umi-u- < 


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